I'm shooting a Chapuis .470 and having a lot of fun with it. How is the brass life with the .470? I am using Jamison or Hornady brass and resized using Redding dies, I'm getting no lengthening of the brass. Maybe one or two out of twenty are just being touched by the trimmer blades. Am I right in assuming that since there is no stretching of the brass and if I anneal every three of four reloads that no metal is being moved from the base of the case. Reloader 15 with the Kynoch foam wad and 87 to 88 grains with Woodleigh or Hornady 500 grain bullets and Federal magnum primers. How long will these cases last? How many reloads are you guy's getting on your brass. If looking for a .470, give the Chapuis a look. Nice gun and the weight is nice with just a bit of muzzle heavyness. Does not have an automatic safety so you are in control of safety. When you reload for the second pair of shots you do not have to take the safety off again, just bang 'em where it counts. I like this rifle.

My loads are differant than yours, but here goes.
Ihave been using Norma brass, bought a bunch before the price exploded and Hornady became available. I use IMR 4831, 106gr. I have never annealed.
I'm probably getting 4-5 full loads before case separations start to happen. Remaining cases are relegated to low velocity practice rounds with lead bullets.
I have gotten a supply of Hornady brass, but haven't started loading it yet.
The first time I got a separation, I panicked. A big hunt was a week away, and I couldn't get the stuck case out of the chamber. A 20 gauge bronze brush pushed into the case from the breech allowed me to pull it right out.

Marty, I've seen reports that Norma brass has failed after a few reloads. The Jaminson and Hornady seem to be much better for reloading. I've been annealing all of my big bore brass and so far have had very good case life with .375 H&H, .416 Remmy, .416 Rigby, .458 Win, .458 Lott and so far the .470. I'll remember the 20 ga brush if I get a seperation.

I use BELL brass and I'm on my 10th reload, haven't lost one yet.

I've never made annealing part of my practice, but I've only been reloading these boomers a short time, I may need to start if case life improves that much. The way I undersrtand the process though, the annealing takes place at the mouth and shoulder, outside the water bath. Does this somehow prevent the heads from separating? Kind of a newbie question, but I'm a newbie to annealing!
Any links to the annealing process?
As my Lee fsctory crimp dies for 470 and 416 Rigby just arrived today, the timt to start playing is here anyway.

Don't size more than necessary, pull the expander button out of the sizing die, and get a separate expander made by Buffalo arms. You will have a 3 die set just like a very large pistol, a sizer , expander and seating die.

JD

I anneal my brass to keep it from work hardening and for uniform bullet tension. Keeps the mouths soft so the expander doesn't drag brass as much and to help bullet release the same. Good section on annealing in the A-square manual. Believe that it helps for not dragging brass forwards and it does help if you have a well cut chamber. Also getting no lengthening on my 416 remmy and the rigby. The Chapuis chambers are really well done and I work the brass very little with the Redding dies. I guess I'll put 10 reloads on he brass and then scrap it just to be safe.

I've had case head separation after 5-6 reloads with Fed brass. Have also used "Rigby" marked Bell brass and hsven't yet had a separation. Some have had 8-9 loadings.

Brett

Never have annealed my Jamison brass in 500 N.E., I've reloaded some of the brass 7-8 times. Any low pressure case such as a 470 you should be able to reload it 8-10 times no problem IF it's good brass your using. I plan on shooting my brass for the 500 at least 10 times maybe 12-14 because most of my loads are plinking loads.

quote:

Originally posted by 470Evans:
I use BELL brass and I'm on my 10th reload, haven't lost one yet.

BeLL, which is jamison, as mark bought Jim's machines

Norma produced a bad batch of 470 brass a few years ago. I could only get three or four reloads out of it. I haven't tried the latest Hornady brass a yet but do have some. Hopefully it will be much longer lasting then the Norma.

465H&H

The .470 is usually not hard on cartridge cases.
With good quality brass, good quality dies, and correct resizing methods, you should get very good life from your cases.

Shot 20 rds last evening and just punched the center out of the bull at 30 yards. Several friends fired a few shots and did very well. There is a learning curve with the .470 and I'm working my way up the hill. Full bead settled in the rear vee and it shoots to the front sight. One primer leak with the federal magnum primers on the 9th reload on the Jamison brass so I'll settle for 8 reloads and then scrap the brass. This was with the Hornady 500gr DGX soft. Seems to regulate nicely with 87grs of the lot of RL-15. Bad news is I noticed sluggish ejection on the right barrel and on inspection, I have a broken ejector spring. The springs are at the back of the ejector box under the barrel. The spring has a rectangular boss at the front and the spring broke at the transition of the boss and the flat part of the spring. I need a source for a replacement. Would like to order several springs and a spare front sight just to have on hand in case I need them in the future. Anyone have a source in the US for Chapuis parts? Will contact them in France if I have to. Springs can be funny things. Bad ones break right away while good ones can last forever, but one that has a nick or a deep scratch can go several hundred rounds and then give out. When I pull the bad one I'll take a look at the fracture point and see if it had a nick or scratch that caused a fracture point. Reminded of what my gunmaker always tell's me: If you break it, we can fix it! Takes the fear away of hunting with really nice guns!