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I've read enough on here to know my middle finger isn't the only one to suffer from not adequately holding on.

So has anyone tried them and do they save your finger? Doesn't mar the bluing on the trigger guard? Holding screw or spring steel?

With the front (#1) being articulated, my fingers seem to doing just fine.

There is a no brainer cure with little difficulty to not bet bashed.. Strengthen your grip... If the double moves in your hands you need a stronger grip..
I use those hand squeezers and carry them in my truck and work out as driving...

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by JBoutfishn:
With the front (#1) being articulated, my fingers seem to doing just fine.

The articulated front trigger will not avoid the middle finger being brused by the back of the trigger guard. However, as Retreaver says a good grip on the rifle will modify it some. However to answer the first respondant's question; The rubber bumper does work, but t a good grip on the rifle is still needed!

what Mac said .. and yeah, they work very good

Hands come in different sizes and shapes. Yes they do work.

But, if you hold your rifle firmly and correcly, you should not need one.

Perhaps you would be better off having the triggers moved rearward and closer together, making holding the rifle firmly and with adequate clearance for your middle finger easier without stretching out your grip? Not an expensive remedy, and something a custom maker would have taken into account in the hey day and should even now.

JPK

Thanks for the replies. The first four trips to the range and no problem. One moment of indiscretion on the fifth trip has convinced me that the guard is a darn good idea. Just didn't hold the gun as tight as I normally do when taking a shot off the sticks.

No doubt, the rifle must be
gripped firmly, truly firmly.

Sometimes it just comes down to shooter/rife fit. I had a Searcy in 470 and because of the length or pull being too short the trigger guard would bite me on the middle finger. No matter how firm I gripped it and I do have a fairly strong grip it would happen to some degree. One other thing about the Searcy, the diameter of the grip was a little too large for me and I think it presented my middle finger knuckle closer to the trigger guard. Both length of pull and the grip were part of the problem.

Simply, yes.
I don,t own a double rifle but do a fair amount of pigeon shooting in the summer.
That little rubber do da is of great benefit when you start getting a bit tired and sloppy and start not gripping the stock properly.

On CSMC site which is the better option? The holding screw style or spring steel? Do either of them leave any marks or scratches to the trigger guard when removed?
Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by McKay:
On CSMC site which is the better option? The holding screw style or spring steel? Do either of them leave any marks or scratches to the trigger guard when removed?
Thanks

I can't say which is best because the only one I've used is the one with the screw. My thought was the spring one would be easy to loose! I don't have on now, but I have had them on heavy recoiling double rifles, and haven't noticed any damage on the trigger guard when removed. I do get a slap now and then, usually when very tired, or shooting from a dificult postion. IMO, they are worth the $20 bucks if they stop even one bad bruse from a 470NE or larger chambering.

quote:

Originally posted by MacD37:
I do get a slap now and then, usually when very tired, or shooting from a dificult postion. IMO, they are worth the $20 bucks if they stop even one bad bruse from a 470NE or larger chambering.

+1

As other posters have stated this is a function of the shooters grip.

Once when shooting doubles with 2 other shooters, one of them was getting his middle finger bashed and cut by the rear of the trigger guard on his 470 Chaupis.

The other 2 of us shot his gun with the same loads ahd had no problems.

I recommended he get one of the rubber or leather guards.

I recommend you do to.

I would get at least 2, just in case the one on the gun falls of and is lost on a hunting trip.

I don't like them because they are ugly and can make it a little awkward to get a gloved finger into the gap between the trigger and rubber protector.

However, I need to use them on the 470 because I like a semi-relaxed grip with my trigger hand.

On the 450/400 I do not need them which is just one more reason one should shoot a 450/400.

Palmer???

I think we are talking about a rubber protector installed behind the rear of the trigger guard, not on the back of the front trigger.

Aha - like the one Bisley makes with the little brass screw - Thanks for setting me straight Tony.

PS

Would not the root of this problem be a stock that is too short or a comb that extends too far forward or a shooter hooking his trigger finger too far around the trigger rather than pulling with the pad of the finger?

Any of these would seem to bring the middle finger up against the back of the trigger guard.

Here's a picture of the bumper!

No "tubber baby bumpers" for me.

Shot most everything from 45-70 "popgun loads" to 577NE, never needed anything but more ammo. Whished I owned a DR.

Keith

I do not recommend you try this, but one way to tell if your grip with the "trigger pulling hand" is tight enough is to shoot the rifle from the hip, ie the butt stock not in your shoulder.

Usually durring shotgun combat training you know right a way who has an improper grip when they cut bash or cut their middle finger.

This happens even more with those cut down shotguns, where the regular wood stock is cut of just behind the pistol grip.

This was done back in the day before the verticle pistol grips for shotguns became avialable.

Like I said do not try this with a hard kicker unless you have a REAL GOOD GRIP on the gun.

If your hands and fingers are long enough, just try holding onto the grip a little farther back. That plus a tighter hold got the problem somewhat resolved for me. However, the real solution was to get a different gun.

The hand strengthening exercises really do help, up to a point at least. I do those for handgunning with magnums and it's a sound idea. It doesn't have to be just using those squeeze things. Other methods seem to help...like doing lots and lots of firewood cutting with an axe and using a heavy sledge and wedges to break up the larger pieces, and other such activities.

To see how my efforts are coming along, I've tried a little test. I took a light shotgun, a 16 ga Model 12 pump out to the farm one day and chambered a 1 1/4 oz heavy field load, then held the gun out at arm's length with one hand, elbow locked straight out, and tried firing it. Other hand in my pocket. The first few times I don't mind admitting it left my hand. But I'm working on it.

I also know what it's like to have that trigger guard slam the middle finger. After a box of that stuff, the next day the finger turned black and felt broken. I could move it however, and so knew it'd be OK.

The gun itself has of course much to do with this. And I don't mean just the weight. You can take two guns of the same weight and for some strange reason one may have a chopping kick like a mule but the other with the same load won't leave your finger and shoulder messed over. Isn't that odd?

In other words, trading one gun for another may well solve the problem. In my case it did.

This type of thing is a problem with very heavy recoiling handguns, especially the old Colt shaped reproductions. The fix was to place the second finger just UNDER the trigger guard at the back, and holding the grip tightly with the rest of the hand. When the firearm is set off the trigger guard slides over the middle finger rather than hitting it! I haven't tried this with my doubles, but will next time I go to the range! If it is really a problem for you, you can cut the middle finger off a neoprene glove, and slip it on the middle finger, like a condom!