I'm new to reloading and finding brass or ammo is impossible right now. I can't find any Winchester +p brass but I can find Remington brass. All the reloading info has disclaimers about "+p" brass in modern firearms. Is Remington that much weaker that I can't use the data? I'll be using IMR-4350 powder and CCI 200 primers. I have some remington 100 gr corlokts and 100 gr Ballistic tips. Most of the load recommendation start about 38 grs and max about 43 in the load data I've seen. I know I need to start at to lower end. I just want to make sure it's safe. Anyone have experience with the BOB in remington brass?

here's a funny ..
loads in the win+p brass ARE going to be higher pressure than if you shot the same loads in the remmie.. the brass is THICKER

i have worked up the same VELS in rem and win brass .. which are NOT the name loads ...

use classic loads and work up on pressure. The remeington BRASS ain't "thin" by any means .. and the pressure limit is about the 1891/1895 mausers that had been barreled for the bob, NOT a "modern action" which, in the transistional loading books, one is given "+p" loads for the SAME brass. usual disclaimers apply, don't hurt yourself. look at ammoguide.com on the bob for some reference data

i might have an unopened bag of winchester .. you in the states?

Scott,
There are a couple of dealers on Gunbroker.com that have new bagged Winchester brass. This stuff is +P. Looks like the dealer from Montana has six bags of the stuff. Check out this listing: Gunbroker Listing

Like Jeff I don't see any problems with safety but when you are just starting out loading, I would hate to see someone get halfway to a decent load and then have to start all over when the preferred kind of brass finally shows up.

Right now I don't load the .257 Bob in anything other than +P brass but that is mostly a personal preference and the fact that I got a bunch of that brass and ammo when I bought my rifle used.

I have a 257 AI and have used both brands of brass, I prefer Win but only because I get more reloadings out of them, on the other hand Rem's seem a little easier to work with and fire form, I recommend you get hold of whichever kind you can and get busy

This drought won't last forever and when you can the other kind you can experiment on your own, some guns like different brass for whatever reason

Just stay within the limits listed in your manuals (until your get a few hundred reloads under your belt)

I have 2 roberts and an AI-Roberts.Love the darn round.
Since you are new to reloading I want to give you a little advise on the .257 Roberts.
Others here might say i'm wrong and you decide for yourself who you want to belive.
I asume you bought the Kimber you mentioned on an earlier post.
I have the same rifle in .308 winchester.
Sammi specs on the .308 list preasure at I think 52000 cup.
Even the stoutest listed loads for the .257 roberts are 50,000 Cup.
Your rifle is a s strong as mine ans will handel 52,000 easy.
Now I am not tell ing you to throw caution to the wind and just start funneling powder into your cases , But if in fact you are loading for a Kimber , or any other new rifle, Let me sugest You start at a load about 2 grains below the max for a given powder and bullet weight,
And i would not worry at all about the brass. When you get a chance find some Winchester brass, as its just a little better finished , But if you like the remington brass it is fine too.
The Roberts is a great round, and I know you will love it. Please post a picture of you Kimber and keep posting on your results ...tj3006
...tj3006

i would just buy the rem brass work up an accurate load and not worry about the velocity.
if you wanted thespeed you'd have bought a 25-06 or the weatherby

I appreciate all the advise so far. I did order some remington brass. I'll start conservative when I get my Kimber back from Kimber. From the feedback it sounds like I don't have much to worry about with the remington brass. I didn't thin I would but I wanted to ask since I'm new to reloading. I'll be glad when this drought ends.

I neck the stuff up for the 6.5 x 57 I shoot..

As long as you don't try to turn it into a 25/06 or a 257 Weatherby, I'd say you are looking just fine...

a 110 to 120 grain bullet at 2800 MV
or a 100 at 2900 to 3000 will take about any game you'd really want to hunt with the Roberts...

Its a wise choice of a hunting round...

Scott
I have 500 Win +P cases. It is new factory primed brass that I will sell at the going retail price for unprimed brass.

Scott,

I have some Win +P and Remington 257 brass. Both load to the same pressure level, and deliver similar accuracy. Use whatever you can get your hands on, and never look back.

Don

IMHO brass is a personal preference like chocolate/vanilla, or Ford/Chevy. Size,prime, follow a good load book, and shoot. You and your rifle will be fine. The only other advice I can give you is to pay attention to Seafire.
GOOD LUCK and GOOD SHOOTING!!!

THe difference in +P brass Roberts brass and non- +P Roberts brass is the headstamp. The +P headstamp is only to identify ammunition loaded by the factory to a higher pressure than old SAAMI standards. It is meaningless in empty brass, new or otherwise.

It's a long story why the original SAAMI pressure specs for the .257 Roberts were significantly lower than other cartridges made on that basic 57mm case, but the cases themselves have always been identical in web thickness, etc. to .30-06, 270 and other .470" head diameter cases.

quote:

THe difference in +P brass Roberts brass and non- +P Roberts brass is the headstamp.

Hmmmm. not what the Speer and Hornady loading manuals say. +P brass is thicker and hence has less internal capacity.

quote:

Originally posted by olarmy:

Hmmmm. not what the Speer and Hornady loading manuals say. +P brass is thicker and hence has less internal capacity.

This is correct, the +p has less capacity .. proven, time and time again

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
here's a funny ..
loads in the win+p brass ARE going to be higher pressure than if you shot the same loads in the remmie.. the brass is THICKER

quote:

Hmmmm. not what the Speer and Hornady loading manuals say. +P brass is thicker and hence has less internal capacity.

Yes, I know what they say. Just because you've got the wherewithal to publish a book doesn't make you infallible. Lots of myths get repeated in print.

With different lots of cases and powders you will need to recheck your loads.


Built both my boys .257AI's as their whitetail rifles.

Go to load was and is 120 Norma,
(stocked up years ago)
Remington Brass, 210GM, H4831, from 49 to 52 gr,
varies by lot of powder and cases.
Avg 2950 to 3000 fps.

Accuracy is always good 1" or so, with some groups as small as 1/3" out of the light contour barrels on the two rifles.

Lots of bullet/ powder choices that work well, the above recipe has taken both large and small critters with great results.

(no grizz or moose, but black bear, deer, elk, hogs etc.)

quote:

With different lots of cases and powders you will need to recheck your loads.

+1

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:

quote:

Hmmmm. not what the Speer and Hornady loading manuals say. +P brass is thicker and hence has less internal capacity.

Yes, I know what they say. Just because you've got the wherewithal to publish a book doesn't make you infallible. Lots of myths get repeated in print.

So what basis do you have for your assertion that there is no difference?