i am about to try my hand at forming some 416 aagaard cases for my father. i still need to get the right shell holder and pilot for my trimmer but i just want to set my mind at ease that i won't screw anything up. is all i need to do is run a 376 case up into the 416 die and then trim to the right length? and what is the proper case lenght? is fireforming necessary or will the case be completely formed by the sizing die? thanks for any help...bud

Just lube, run the case thru the die and then fireform it. I don't have the ctg drawing handy, e-mail Fred Zeglin and he'll probably send you the specs you need. I just trim the cases to a uniform length as the Aagaard uses the same length case as the .376.

You may get a few fail to fires with brass before it's fireformed. I use a reduced load and the 350gr Speer or some .416 cast bullets a friend gave me for this duty.

hth

thanks rick. i sent FZ a PM

Just put some pistol powder (not MUCH) and cream of wheat/corn meal.. with a packing peanut on top and fireform.. don't bother necking to 416 first
jeffe

quote:

Originally posted by budiceale:
and what is the proper case lenght?

2.350" trim length.

that's what i need. thanks fred

Jeffe,

What's the best pistol powder for this? I tried it with 15gr of Unique, one or two cases moved the shoulder to approximately the right place and the other eight or so didn't change a bit.

Step 1 - Using a case with a spent primer in it, fill it with the PISTOL POWDER of your choice (I use Bullseye) and then dump the powder on your scale and weigh it.

Step 2 - Prime your cases with PISTOL PRIMERS and weigh out a charge of the same pistol PISTOL POWDER that is 10% of the weight in Step 1.

Step 3 - Insert some lightly rolled toilet paper into the case to hold the powder in place against the back of the case (next to primer) and then lightly fill the case mouth with beeswax.

Step 4 - Lightly lube the case and insert it into the chamber of the rifle.....keep the rifle pointing slightly up (helps keep powder back) and fire the rifle.

If the case appears to be fully formed continue with the next case however if it appears the case didn't form fully increase the powder charge until it does.

I used this method to form brass for my Lazzeroni Hellcat and it worked fine except I had to go with more powder as the Lazzeroni brass is very thick.

Clean the barrel after each five rounds.

Method is safe, easy and quick.

Normally I use Bullseye. I have used Red & Green Dot. To move the shoulder and form cases similar to the Gibbs. You will use less of these faster powders. I start light and work up by .5 grs until I get the shoulder where I want it. The edge of the shoulder might be a touch rounded but it will sharpen after the first full load. I have never been able to tell the difference between the slightly rounded edge vs the sharp. (I'm talking about only the edge of the shoulder not the shoulder itself)

The fastest powders I use are Unique and W231, I've tried up to 15gr of both topped with instant Cream of Wheat and a paper towel plug. I hadn't tried lubing the case when fireforming that might be the next step.

It was just easier to work up a load with 20gr Unique and a lead bullet for @1,400fps, as a plunking load.

Thanks for the info.

try your load of bullseye, but put cream of wheat/corn meal over it, and then pack it in, then use a form packing peanut to hold it all in...

this pops 375rum right into workable 470 ARs, amoung other rounds,, even 375HH to Lott, or 375 RUM to 416 AR

jeffe