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One of Us |
I recently got a 6 x 284 for a coyote rifle. It came with 200 rounds of brass that are necked down 284 win. I got a set of dies with the gun and want to start reloading for it but I have stuck a case in the sizing die. Any tricks on getting this out without screwing up the die? I'm pretty new to reloading and have never stuck a case before and never had to neck up or down either. Can I size this brass with a rcbs standard die for the caliber and do I need to do anything else if I want to size new brass? I don't know how many times the brass I have has been fired so I was thinking about getting 6.5 lapua brass and necking down. Any help would be appriciated. | ||
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one of us |
As to removing the stuck case best way is to get a stuck case removal tool or make one yourself. I drill a hole in the case bottom thread the hole and then use a bolt trough a socket and washer to allow me to screw in the bolt and pull the case out. The facotry unit will work pretty much the same. As to necking down 284 to 6mm while you might be able to do it in one pass with your sizing die the issue is going to be how thick the neck is and what neck is your chamber set up for. the 6.5-284 might be a better starting point. No matter what you use you will need to make sure you don't have a neck thickness issue. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Moderator |
imperial sizing wax or kiwi neutral boot polish opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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One of Us |
When I got my 6-284 it came with a 25-284 trim die as an intermediate stepdown. I think it would be OK to do it in one step from a 6.5 since it is only .007" bigger than the 25. | |||
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One of Us |
I use 6.5x284 Hornady brass nowadays...much easier...one pass and your done...and it is better brass than WW by a wide margin. I used to use the 284 sizer first without the button, Imperial wax to square things up, trim, turn the necks just enough to uniform them, then the 6mm seater with a quick stroke on 284 WW cases...you had to screw a few up to get just the right speed, lastly the 6mmx284 sizer. The neck usually collapses right at the neck/shoulder joint or just below the shoulder with all the WW cases I've used everytime I tried to go slow. Those points are unsupported right at the forming critical moment. A fast stroke stopped that...using a RCBS Rockchucker press. Buy a 284 bushing die and a couple of intermediate bushings or 6.5x284 sizer...or a 25-284 trim die whichever is cheaper...but just buying 6.5 Hornaday solves all that bother...and is way cheaper too boot. You can also use a 270 WSM sizer after the 284 sizer, both without the buttons. ALL my resized cases had a "donut" at the neck/shoulder junction and you need to buy an inside "donut" reamer to solve that...moreso on formed WW 284 cases, not so bad on the Hornady...unless you set the bullet seating depth(throat) to seat above or right on top of the donut...it makes a very neat stop. You need to find the barrel twist to pick the right weight bullet. All the 1-10 twist barrels I used worked with bullets up to about 90 gr, but if you want to shoot the VLD types you need 1-8 at least. The long 72gr+ VLD Bergers would come apart within 15yds with a 1-8T but 105-107gr Sierra/Noslers worked great. Stay just below max loads and the barrel will last 2000-2500 rnds...push the velo and you cut that in half. Luck | |||
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One of Us |
Thank you all for the info. Looks like I have a lot to learn. I'll certainly use the Hor. 6.5 x 284 brass. This is a 1 in 12 twist so I'll be using lighter bullets. Right now I have some 70 gr. Noslers. I have always needed some more lessons in reloading so I think I better find someone to walk me through the process a few times till I get the hang of it. | |||
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one of us |
If you have a supply of good WW brass, don't throw it out unless you just want the convenience. I built a heavy 1-12" on a single shot mauser action several years ago. (Douglas barrel). I sized down in two steps and loaded some ammo. It would shoot about 5/8"-3/4" groups. I then took the cases, reamed the primer pockets, deburred the flash holes and outside turned the case necks for concentricity. With the blueprinted cases, it consistently shoots 1/4" groups with 70 grain sierras. It also likes V-Max. I have had good stability with bullets of 90-95 grains, but shape is more critical. I built this rifle before the sniper craze took over, and quite honestly don't see a lot of performance difference between this rifle and other faster twist ones at 300-400 yd varmint use. The higher initial velocity overcomes the ballistic advantage of the heavier, slower bullet at real world distances. For long range target punching, the heavier bullets with a faster twist would be better. If I ever buy new cases (I bought a buch of WW) I would likely go with the 6.5 case as a base. The biggest problem with the WW is that the brass seems a little harder, and after going down an entire mm, it has to be annealed. Before I started annealing, I would find a few cases that cracked after reloading and setting in storage for several months. In these batches, I would lose 30-40% on firing. | |||
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One of Us |
Thank you all for the information. I'm putting this project on hold untill I return from elk hunting. Then I can put the big rifle to bed and concintrate on the 6 x 284. You're advice is appriciated and I'll come back with more questions in a few weeks. | |||
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One of Us |
Well, I'm back on the 6mm project. I've learned how to unstick my brass and managed to make about 25 rds. to start with. The sizing wax sure works better than the spray on lube. I got some H-4831 to try but it meters like crap so I am working up a load with W-760. I shot enough yesterday to get my scope zeroed and am pretty happy. Speed really makes a difference. This thing hits my steel like the hammer of Thor. The load, as it stands now, is 52 gr. of W-760, lr CCI primers oal of 2.8 in.with Nos. 70 gr. BT. I haven't put it across a Chrono. yet. I'll see how it groups and go from there. The book speed says about 36 - 3700 fps. | |||
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one of us |
I necked them partway with a collet in my South Bend, then the rest of the way with the sizing die. I got 200 W-W cases all from the same lot at the same shop where I bought the reloading dies. TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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new member |
My cousin has a Cooper with a slow twist also. It shoots the 70g V-max like lightning. He actually killed an elk with it on a fluke opportunity. It would not shoot anything much heavier until I told him about the new Berger they built for those slow twisters. (87VLD IIRC). Sent me a pic of 1 1/4" three shot at 500yds. I guess it likes it! He is tickled pink to have a bullet that he can use reliably on something bigger than varmints. If you can get a hold of these, I think you will be pleased. All of the feedback I have seen has been very good. I think, therefore, I am, conservative. Don't let the low post count fool you; I had to re-join after several years of reading the forums. | |||
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One of Us |
You mentioned 4831, I have had good luck with Reloader 22. I load 95 gr bullets in mine with lighter bullets R22 may be a little slow might try R19. | |||
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One of Us |
I'm back to the 4831 but in the short cut version. It sure meters better and I think its more accurate. I shot it at 1 k last weekend and just the easiest breeze sure has an effect on that 70 gr. bullet. The Berger is certainly worth a try. Nothing to brag about at that distance (1 k) but at 600 it is holding pretty tight concidering the breeze that was blowing. Now that the holidays and honey do's are wrapping up, maybe I'll get a chance to dial this baby in a little better. | |||
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