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quote:
Originally posted by MFD:
Mercy!! There are some very strong opinions, beliefs, etc. regarding the practice of using or not using wire brush to clean a bore. If one beieves using a brush is absolutely necessary, then have at it and same goes for using a bore scope(Hawkeye, have ready access to one) but I hardly think that saying one is a "fool" for not doing what someone else does is definitely on the harsh side and a poor choice of words in this situation.
My whole point for mentioning that some do not advocate use of the brush in their rifles is that their rifles clean up readily and with little or no copper fouling. The matches I participate in are Long Range NRA classification type and round count can be near 100 including sighters in a relatively short period of time. Can say that the bores of my Krieger barrels or Douglas show little copper after such steady firing in a match. As for the bore being pristine clean at a match, unless you have no sighters, the sighters will foul the barrel somewhat and there went the so called pristine bore concept. Some of the matches allow two sighters, some 5, and some give you twenty minutes to fire 20 rounds plus sighters in 30 minutes. My fouled bore is not the reason I do not shoot a "clean" target at matches, but the "trigger puller" and my natural point of aim, sling tension, head position,light conditions(receiver sights,) and so on. If a "super clean" bore works for others, God Bless and go for it!!



Sorry MFD but you do not understand... When I said you start from a Pristine bore that means you then have a known condition and therefore predictability if you have done your homework relative to fouling. The progression of fouling (NOT JUST COPPER) and the associated degradation of accuracy is definitely related..
 
Posts: 1004 | Registered: 08 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I "see the light..." now and glad you cleared that up for me.
 
Posts: 1328 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 19 January 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Saeed:
quote:
Some say stainless is not a problem with Sweet's, but I am not so sure about that.



We get all sorts of rifles through our shooting range.

Some are stainless, and some are with blued barrels.

I have been trying to see if I can get an idea which barrel is susceptable to Sweet causing the patches to come out rusty.

I am afraid we have not arrived at an answer.

Last week, we shot several rifles, all had stainless barrels. And we cleaned them using Sweet's.

Only one, a Winchester Model 70, in 300 Weatherby Magnum, is the one which seems not to like Sweets.

The patch would come out brown after a few minutes.

Right next to it, we had two rifles. A Weatherby Mk V in 257 Weatherby with a stainless fluted barrel, and a Winchester HB blued barrel in 300 Winchester Magnum.

Neither of these seem to mind Sweet's at all.

So we are still scratching our heads why some barrels seem to be affected while others are not.


Saeed,
Try a part of the planet with high humidity and let the barrel sit until "dry".
 
Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by SR4759:
quote:
Originally posted by Saeed:
quote:
Some say stainless is not a problem with Sweet's, but I am not so sure about that.



We get all sorts of rifles through our shooting range.

Some are stainless, and some are with blued barrels.

I have been trying to see if I can get an idea which barrel is susceptable to Sweet causing the patches to come out rusty.

I am afraid we have not arrived at an answer.

Last week, we shot several rifles, all had stainless barrels. And we cleaned them using Sweet's.

Only one, a Winchester Model 70, in 300 Weatherby Magnum, is the one which seems not to like Sweets.

The patch would come out brown after a few minutes.

Right next to it, we had two rifles. A Weatherby Mk V in 257 Weatherby with a stainless fluted barrel, and a Winchester HB blued barrel in 300 Winchester Magnum.

Neither of these seem to mind Sweet's at all.

So we are still scratching our heads why some barrels seem to be affected while others are not.


Saeed,
Try a part of the planet with high humidity and let the barrel sit until "dry".


In my fireforming barrel(scrap Shilen 338)I tested Sweets and let it sit for about 3 months with no issue. Have let it sit overnight too many times to count.

Not going to say your tubes will act the same as mine did but take it for what it is worth.
 
Posts: 1004 | Registered: 08 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I know this is an older thread but it came to my mind a couple of days ago while cleaning a friends rifle. I use a bronze brush and Butch's to clean my rifles and shotguns. Why is it that when I brushed the bore then passed saturated patches throught till they were clean patches, that when I brushed it again the first patch came out black followed by clean patches again? This happened for the next four brushings before I finally gave up in disgust. I made an adaptor to affix a fiber optic cable to my Sure Fire so I can see a lot of the bore better than with just a flashlight alone. I don't see anymore fouling be it carbon or copper and the bore sparkles like a hall of mirrors. Why does the first patch after a brushing look so bad when I trully think that the bore is very clean.


**************************The two enemies of the people are criminals and government, so let us tie the second down with the chains of the Constitution so the second will not become the legalized version of the first.
 
Posts: 282 | Location: South West Wisconsin | Registered: 27 February 2010Reply With Quote
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A good quality rotating rod with tight fitting brush followes, thus scrubs the entire lenght of the rifling. Patches, no matter how tight fittings are will never take up the contour of the grooves, especially not in the corners.
 
Posts: 53 | Location: Mass. USA | Registered: 20 September 2004Reply With Quote
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If you're using a bronze brush to apply the Butches, the Butches is "melting" some of the bronze brush which is showing up as fouling on your first patch or two.
Try some nylon brushes.


Aim for the exit hole
 
Posts: 4348 | Location: middle tenn | Registered: 09 December 2009Reply With Quote
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I use bronze brushes for carbon fouling removal only, right after a range trip. I do it untill patches come out gray/black. When the light blue (what you are talking about) appears I switcdh to my Foul Out III electrochemical bore cleaner for copper removal.
 
Posts: 53 | Location: Mass. USA | Registered: 20 September 2004Reply With Quote
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Picture of ted thorn
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quote:
Originally posted by Idaho Sharpshooter:
did you try Option B, or are you just talking? You exert over 30ft/lbs of torque to push a proper size brush thru a barrel.

Rich


Rich, I'm a injection moldmaker. In a nutshell I cut steel in just about every way possible for a living not a hobby.

4140 or 4130 will not scratch with a bronze brush it will however bring up the shine as long as you follow the scratch grain. Go across the scratch grain and you can scratch mild steel with a penny.

I was talking to all the toolmakers at break today and mentioned your post. No body in the place agreed with your bronze will scratch theory.....over 100 years combined experience in machining of all metals, all said the brush will only bring up the shine pushed through a barrel.

Bronze will also never Gaulle. We use a round bronze cup brush to apply a #1 mirror finish to optical molds as step #6 in the polish process.

I get a smile on my face when people start talking about lapping and polishing barrels, especially when JB is mentioned.


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Hey Ted,

I've been using Patches wet with " Kano Kroil ", followed by Brushes & finished with " JB ", for years ..

Question:
" JB " good stuff, or a waste of time ??

p.s. : I've been recently using this stuff, instead of the " Kroil ".

Blaster Penetrating Catalyst
http://www.blasterchemical.com/PB_Blaster.html

It's sold at all " Home Depot ".. which makes easier to pick-up locally.

PAPI
 
Posts: 432 | Location: California | Registered: 01 August 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of ted thorn
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JB is good stuff. I use it for very dirty rifles. It is a cleaner and does not remove steel in any nano amount.


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Ted,
How would you suggest JB be used?


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6653 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of ted thorn
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I cut a long thin patch about 1/2"x3" then I wrap it helically around a bronze brush. Then I embed the patch with JB and work it through the barrel.

The patch material holds the JB and the brush scrubs.


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I do it like Ted also. One little trick is to push you cleaning rod thru the bore and then thread on your JB soaked patch/brush. If you PULL your first stroke thru the barrel, the excess JB is sqeegied off at the muzzel instead of inside the chamber. And every so often, you can collect the excess that's accumulated with your finger and smear it back on the patch.


Aim for the exit hole
 
Posts: 4348 | Location: middle tenn | Registered: 09 December 2009Reply With Quote
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Good idea beeman


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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