Browning A-Bolt 300 wsm.
1. To clean I run a dry patch to push out any loose junk.
2. Then, I soak the brush with Nitro Solvent and brush it out for a bit.
3. I spray out the barrel with carb cleaner.
4. I run dry patches till it is dry.
At the end, what should I lube the barrel with?
How many rounds does it take to foul the barrel?
What oil makes fouling obsolete?
Please critique my cleaning.

I did a pretty extensive barrel cleaning test a while back in conjunction with testing several [over a dozen] Sniper Rifles.

I had a Bore Scope and it was very easy to tell when a barrel was totally clean.

Whether using a good solvent like Shooters choice or a mild abrasive like J&B, or Wipeout, I always dried out the barrel and finished up with Prolix.

Then I dried out the chamber and the barrel.

Our first round out was spot on after using the Prolix.

Also durring long shooting sessions, I brush out the barrel using Prolix, then dry it out and again the first round out hits spot on.

You can get Prolix from www.heritagearms.net

I have no financial intrest in the Prolix Company or Heritage Arms.

Any testing using just Wipeout? I ask because the instructions claim that there is a lube left behind after removal of the gunk.

quote:

Originally posted by MRAMSAY10:
Browning A-Bolt 300 wsm.
1. To clean I run a dry patch to push out any loose junk.
2. Then, I soak the brush with Nitro Solvent and brush it out for a bit.
3. I spray out the barrel with carb cleaner.
4. I run dry patches till it is dry.
At the end, what should I lube the barrel with?
How many rounds does it take to foul the barrel?
What oil makes fouling obsolete?
Please critique my cleaning.

Critique:
You didn't mention details, but if your Nitro solvent dissolves copper - Don't use a copper brush in your step 2.
Also, again if it disolves copper - try after step 2. but before 3. brushing it down with the solvent and leave overnight, run a dry patch through the next day and check for evidence for greenish-blue color indicating copper is still coming out.


Lube:
I mostly do the final lube with Rem oil. But if rifle is proned to first shot flyers, I've substituted spray silicone and reduced the first shot accuracy problem.


Fouling shots:
I always check/resight-in my hunting rifles before a hunt - Takes 2 to five shots, then don't clean the barrel again until the hunts over.

"WIPEOUT" till clean then dry patch then "BALLISTOL" then dry patch prior to use.

Ballistol is number one, inside and outside. It seems to permeate the metal and prevents rust.

I have been using Breakfree CLP after cleaning with Butch's Boreshine. Dry patch before shooting.

I always hunt with a fowled barrel.

Might want to read check out the story in Modern Gunsmith:

Modern Gunsmith Article

After extensive research recently I've decided to try GM Top Engine cleaner for carbon removal followed by Wipe-Out foam to get the copper out and then Lock-Eze for lube/protectant.

If it works as good as they say, it won't get any easier.

Ballistol

The purpose of the fouling shots are to burn out the oil. Even if you've run a dry patch thru the bore right before firing. This replaces the oil with a layer of carbon. Not a bad thing. I'd rather have it than shoot a dry bore, ie, cleaned with brake cleaner and then fired.

For short storage (like overnight or a week) I run a patch wet with Kroil thru the bore, followed by two dry patches. For Medium storage, I use Rem Oil in the same manner. For long storage, I use a patch wet with Rem Oil and don't patch any out. But I store the rifle in the locker muzzle down. I do like to run a little Hoppe's and some dry patches thru the bore of a rifle that's been in the locker for a while before firing.

FIRST run should be a bronze brush with solvent. Wet the bore, dissolve the fouling. Then a WET patch.

Instructions on Hoppe's No. 9 note the bronze brush should do ten passes.

I use a bore guide, and resoak the brush at about five passes. Let the solvent work a few minutes and then wet patch, dry patch.

When I'm finished, I run a wet patch with some polymer lube -- white and the label has worn off the bottle.

Then, when shooting, I run a couple dry patches to get the lube out of the bore. Still, a "fouling shot" is required. This shot cleans out the bore, but also brings up the temp.

Both affect accuracy, and I won't shoot a group without first running a fouling shot.

ATF.

Kroil for storage between range shooting sessions. I also like ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil I like even beter plus it smells real good

JD,
Are you mixing the ATF and MMO?

quote:

Originally posted by Doctor D:
After extensive research recently I've decided to try GM Top Engine cleaner for carbon removal followed by Wipe-Out foam to get the copper out and then Lock-Eze for lube/protectant.

If it works as good as they say, it won't get any easier.

I too have recently heard about the wonderful propety's of Lock ease, suspended graphite for the final patch down a barrel. Montdoug has been using a similar product for a number of years. He's not a man that easily takes on change. FS

quote:

JD,
Are you mixing the ATF and MMO?

Nope. no need to.

If you finish cleaning your barrel with Prolix, and then dry the barrel and chamber out, your first round out will be where it should be...

I'm of the opinion that most guns are overcleaned. I haven't run tests to prove it, but acceptable non-benchrest accuracy will last a helluva lot more rounds in most barrels than most people think. Don't clean unless you have to.

However, when I clean, I have quit making the effort to get EVERY LAST COPPER MOLECULE out of the barrel. I clean until I get a reasonably clean result on a patch, wipe dry, and, for short or medium term storage, run a wet patch with Hoppe's #9 through it and put it up. Usually before shooting, I run a patch through the bore. It will usually come out with some shades of green. The same thing will usually happen if you think you've got your bore squeaky clean before leaving the Hoppe's in there.

Gator;

I agree.

I clean my high power cometition service rifle once every ~500 rounds, whether it needs it or not. In between sessions/matches, I run a CLP wetted patch down the bore, wipe up the action/gas system w/o disassembly, then a dry patch before next session.

It shoots under 1 MOA if I do my part.

MY cleaning process:

at 500 +/- rounds ( I record every shot in a log book) I brush w/ CLP, then CLP wet patches until most gunk is gone, a dry patch or two, then foaming bore cleaner until the blue is pretty much done (maybe an hour, then wipe w/ CLP again), grease/lube required areas as specified.

In January of each year, I tear the rifle down, do 100% cleaning, part eval and skim bedding (if I have time or perceived need), then start over. I have a documented 4700 rounds through this rifle (full pressure bedded NM M1 Garand in 30/06, Krieger 1-12 heavy CM barrel). Test group at 100yds last week after annual maint resulted in a 5 shot 200 yd group measuring just over 1.5 inches tall,1 inch wide, slow prone (sling only), after 3 fouling shots. I expect another 5000 rounds or more from this rifle. Throat erosion is at 2 or 3

Making NRA Master with this rifle this year across the course (200-300 & 600 yards) is my goal, I am averaging about 93.5% or ~750 of 800 as of last season.

"Burnishing" your bore by excessive cleaning is overated and probably the cause of many accuracy problems.

Always use a good rod (I like tipton graphite -wipe it after every pass as well), clean patches, and always use a bore guide and NEVER use abrasives- a good quality barrel needs nothing more. Always pull your brushes, patches etc from the breech to the muzzle- same way the bullets go.

Best;

quote:

After extensive research recently I've decided to try GM Top Engine cleaner for carbon removal followed by Wipe-Out foam to get the copper out and then Lock-Eze for lube/protectant.

I've read great things about the GM Top Engine Cleaner. I can't find any here in town. Do you think that all spray engine cleaners may be the same and will work good for carbon? I bought some AutoZone store brand, but haven't tried it yet....

quote:

I've read great things about the GM Top Engine Cleaner. I can't find any here in town. Do you think that all spray engine cleaners may be the same and will work good for carbon? I bought some AutoZone store brand, but haven't tried it yet....

No, not if you are talking about the stuff made for cleaning the outside of the engine. GM top engine cleaner is made for cleaning the inside of the engine.