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Just finished sighting in(fine tuning) rifle for hunting season(in 2 months). I thoroughly cleaned rifle with cleaning solvents, cooper remover..more solvents..brushed..cleaned...you get the picture(pretty anal). I left the bore dry..NO OIl! Should I have put some oil in the barrel? I will not be shooting this rifle until hunting season. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance for any replies. | ||
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one of us |
This is all after having the Barrel in a Pristine Clean condition: Over the years, I've used both Oil(of various types) and Grease(also of various types). In the firearms where I shoot Moly Coated Bullets, I now use a Moly Grease. And generally R.I.G. in the ones that do not get Moly Bullets. I first "Form" a snug fitting Paper patch to the Bore, apply a bit of the appropriate Grease to the Patch, give it a couple of strokes in the barrel, re-index the Patch(rotate it outside the barrel) and give it a few more strokes. And follow that with a couple of new snug Paper Patches to remove any excess Grease, which makes it Lightly Lubed. I also do this same procedure at the Range when verifying where the First shot from my Pristine Clean, Lightly Lubed Barrel will go. On the other hand, if a person likes Pitted Barrels, then Lubing the Bore would "Foul-Up" getting the Barrel to that condition. | |||
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I don't know what the conditions are in the room where you store your rifle,but if it gets humid all of a sudden,it could rust within a week or two. | |||
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Thanks for replies..Hot Core..Im not being a smart azz..but trying to get a drift of your last paragraph | |||
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One of Us |
The problem with oil is that if you forget to clean it out before you shoot, your first 3 to 5 shots will be wild and you could swage the bore. I quit oiling bores several years ago. My cleaning is now finished up with Prolix followed by a dry patch. Prolix protects against rust and will not cause wild first shots. | |||
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One of Us |
This goes back to my Marine training. One patch wet with oil, followed by two dry patches. A few days before hunting season, I will fire a couple of sighters to make sure the gremlins haven't screwed something up and to clear the barrel of the trace oil. Then I don't touch the barrel until hunting season is over unless I fall in the creek or get caught in the rain. I feel the light coating of carbon fouling in the barrel will protect it during the season. FWIW, if it was my only choices, I'd much rather hunt with oil in the barrel than I had store a rifle with the barrel dry. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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One of Us |
In my experience a heavy dose of a heavy, viscous oil will likely throw a wild shot or two. On the other hand if you use a very light coat of a light clean oil it is more likely to not throw a wild shot. Keep in mind that oil does evaporate as well. For a few years I have been using the Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner Oil. It is the best I have found. Following cleaning (per whatever is best for your rifle, but not too aggressive unless you use Barnes bullets ), then I run one patch "lightly" oiled and then follow wth one or two loose fitting dry patches. When I have fired a cold bore shot it has been right on or very close - within say 1/4 inch. I try not to clean the hunting rifles until the end of the season or until they act like they need it or until a new load development. Keep a small roll of tape in your pack for rain and cover that muzzle. If you are concerned about the oil then just run a tight fitting patch or two through a couple of days before before you go hunt. If you are really worried about it get the little pellet kind of patch from Brownells and load two of them on and run them through after that. It will be squeaky dry clean. I asked Beretta about some changes in their oiling etc as to a light coat vs dry - but on a shotgun piston bore. They were nice and said although a very light coat is what they would like to see, that they published dry as the word "oil" resulted many many times in excessive oil oozing everywhere was their experience. I run mine very lightly oiled and without a single malfunction of any kind ever. So just a little bit will work. I have not had to touch my 270 in years. Go to range - fire a CBS, perfect. Fire a few at 100, 200, maybe 300. Clean. Go hunt when ready. My friends boy was fussing with his rifle and jacked it up. My friend gave the boy his rifle and I let the the friend use that 270. He asked do I need to do anything. Only just put crosshairs on deer - pull trigger. He did that twice at about 100 and 200 that weekend to collect two nice deer. I do the same with all of my rifles - just mentioned that one. | |||
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One of Us |
Oil it, then go to the range and foul it ONCE. _______________________ | |||
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one of us |
Just making a Pun. To translate into Eastern, USA from Southeastern, USA it would be: If you do not maintain some form of Lubricant in the Bore to "Seal Out" moisture, then Pits will eventually develop in the Steel. Stainless is more forgiving than constantly Rusting Blue Steel, but it will eventually Pit too. There are people on the GunSmith Board who will post that Blue Steel firearms NEVER Rust. But you never see them post in the threads on that Board where the firearms have actually Rusted. Here are a few "My firearm RUSTED !!!" threads for your viewing pleasure: 1. Rust 2. More Rust 3. And more Rust I have more, but you will notice the same guys who claim Blue Steel NEVER Rusts are conspicuous by their absence in those threads. So, if you DO NOT want Pits - Lighty Lube. Or, if you "like Pits" - DO NOT Lighty Lube. | |||
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one of us |
I have always been a beliefer of putting "oil" in the barrel when the rifle is in storage. For the last 3 years or so I have been using a roduct called Prolix. I have discovered that you can put it in the bore, dry out the chamber and barrel with a couple of patches, and it does not effect the first round out. DOUBLE RIFLE SHOOTERS SOCIETY | |||
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one of us |
Well this is an easy one for me. 1. NEVER EVER STORE A FIREARM WITHOUT OIL, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE BORE IS SCRUBBED SO CLEAN. 2. NEVER EVER FORGET TO CLEAN OUT ALL OF THE OIL BEFORE SHOOTING THE FIREARM AS YOU DO NOT WANT TO BULGE THE BARREL. 3. THE BORE SHOULD BE DRY AND OIL FREE ON THE FIRST SHOT AFTER IT HAS BEEN STORED. IF ANYTHING YOU CAN COAT THE BORE WITH LOCK-EEZ WHICH WILL LIGHTLY COAT THE BORE WITH A DRY LUBRICANT PRIOR TO THE FIRST SHOT. 4. LEAVING THE BORE OIL FREE IN STORAGE IS AN OPEN INVITATION FOR MOISTURE AND PITTING. Ted Kennedy's car has killed more people than my guns | |||
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Thanks for all the replies...I really do appreciate them | |||
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One of Us |
My question to you would be: Do you think it is a good idea to solvent clean the exterior metal of your rifle removing all oils and/or waxes leaving nothing but the bare steel, and then store the rifle without oiling for two months prior to hunting season, and then hunt with same without wiping down with a protectant?? My opinion is that this is poor maintenance and will greatly increase the odds of resulting damage. If you think it a good idea to wipe down the exterior metal of your rifle after washing the metal bare with solvent, the same would apply to your bore ID. Patch the bore with a proper protectant, followed by dry patching and shooting a fouling shot prior to hunting. Even without a fouling shot, you'd be better off in the long run. Best | |||
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One of Us |
Could not have said it better myself----the only difference is that if there has been any moisture even a light mist --- will then clean the bore. I am just anal about that. | |||
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