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DATE OF HUNT April 2-16, 2012 LOCATION Dande East, Zimbabwe GAME HUNTED Trophy Bull Elephant PROFESSIONAL HUNTER Buzz Charlton TRACKERS Cryton Muparagande Nyathi OUTFITTER / BOOKING AGENT Charlton McCallum Safaris (CMS) Email: admin1@cmsafaris.com Website: www.cmsafaris.com TRAVEL AGENT Steve Turner & Susan Hill; Travel with Guns Email: steve@travelwithguns.com Website: www.travelwithguns.com TRAVEL SUMMARY Airlines: South African Airlines Itinerary: Dulles (Wash DC) to Johannesburg to Harare KEY EQUIPMENT SUMMARY Heavy Rifle: Ruger Mark II .458 Lott Ammunition: Hand-loaded.500gr Woodleigh Solids Boots: Lowa Zephyr GTX Socks: Smartwool Light Hikers Shorts: Columbia Sportswear Cascade Creek Water Shorts Shirts: Under Armor Tactical & HeatGear Shirtsleeve T’s Compact Camera: Olympus Stylus Tough 6000 Electrolyte Replacement/Hydration: Nuun Tablets (from REI) Satellite Phone: Iridium 9555 (rented from Outfitter Satellite) REPORT OVERVIEW My last hunt to Africa, also with CMS, was in November 2011. As many of you will recall, I did a pretty extensive report tying to capture some of the more subtle aspects of the hunt. This report is sort of “Part 2”, which in many ways accurately reflects the spirit of the safari. Please click here for the November Hunt Report: http://forums.accuratereloadin...6321043/m/4361022961 As usually occurs, towards the end of the hunt last year, I began to ask the question “What’s next?”. Well, Buzz had the answer! I never cease to amaze myself, nor those around me, by the ways that I find to justify a return trip. The problem was, a point that my better half of 25 years delicately pointed out several dozen times over the course of the next few months, the proximity of this hunt to the last. Although I would love to be able to hunt Africa twice a year, for multiple reasons including financial, this is just not realistic. A year between trips is ideal, as it gives me enough time to get hungry and really appreciate how lucky I am to be able to indulge my passion. Life just seems better, with more purpose, when I have an adventure to look forward to. However, the allure of another “early season elephant hunt” was just too great. And, I began thinking that for a variety of reasons, that this just might be my last elephant hunt. TRAVEL TO ZIMBABWE Once again, I followed the familiar route from Dulles (Washington) to Johannesburg then on to Harare, via South African Airlines. Travel is always a bit of a hassle, especially when flying alone, but knock on wood I have been lucky in that I have not had any major issues with SAA nor Joburg. A few delays, a couple issues with firearms on return flights (not the fault of the airlines, both of which were resolved), but nothing thus far that would have me searching for alternate routes. Driving directly to Dulles minimizes the potential for issues, as I believe a lot of trips get off to a bad start with delays and lost luggage prior to the overseas flight. On the short flight from Joburg to Harare, I thought my streak was going to come to an end. We sat for a while in the plane after boarding, which was quite slow. The last passenger to board commented that the gate was in no hurry, as there was a mechanical issue with the plane and that we were going to be a while at best. As it was April 1st, I figured that he was just feeling guilty for making us wait and that a little April Fool’s Day humor was in order. However, the pilot announced shortly thereafter that indeed there was a problem with our anti-skid system, but that there was an unused plane in the adjacent ramp, and we would simply transfer to this once the plane was fueled and prepared. In total we were delayed about an hour and a half. On my trip in November, I snagged a few extra copies of the Zimbabwe VISA form and had this filled out ahead of time, which allowed me to head straight to the counter, although I ended up waiting along with everybody else for the luggage to appear. Which thankfully it did. Buzz, the loyal mate that he is, popped his head in and I gave him the thumbs-up. Once my firearm was cleared, we were off to Buzz’s house. It was late, and after raiding the fridge (which is better stocked these days as it's no longer a bachelor pad!!!) and grabbing a quick shower in the cottage, I managed to fall asleep by 1:30am. TRAVEL TO THE VALLEY - MONDAY I woke at 6:30am, feeling fairly well rested. I spent some time until breakfast reorganizing my luggage and preparing my hunting kit. Steph, Buzz’s fiancé, is as sweet and sharp and pretty of a girl as a man could ever hope for, clearly Buzz outdid himself. After breakfast, we finished loading up the Land Cruiser and hit the road. The “travel day” is always exciting, and I enjoy being part of the final preparations and associated melee. This was Buzz’s first hunt of the year, and having not been hunting for some 5 months, he too was anxious to get back into the bush. Our first stop was the CMS office, where I was greeted by a slightly sleepy Kirsty and Charmain, who declined having their pictures taken and broadcasted all over the Internet. Hey, it was Monday morning after all and the girls do know how to have fun! Japie, CMS’s Dande Area Manager, sorted out the supplies needed for the trip. Buzz Checking Email & Scanning AR from CMS’s Office Japie Loading Supplies for the Hunt Ryan arrived in Big Red (anybody else remember Dodge’s Lil Red Express?). Long story short, Ryan has a mate in Kentucky who arranged to have his modified red Dodge Ram 2500 pickup shipped to Ryan. The reaction that this truck gets is amazing, in the town people walking stare in amazement and those on the road are horrified by its immensity. In the rural areas, it stands out like a sore thumb. The supercharged Dodge is big, fast, loud and American. Even on the crappy diesel, the thing flies. Harare is so very different than it was 7-8 years ago, where Safari vehicles were some of the very few on the road. I could not help but feeling the jeers of urbanites driving around in their nice cars, wondering what these hooligans were up to. In all respects, town life is better with ample supplies of everything a “first world consumer” could ask for. It’s just different. We hit the bustling Shopping Center and gassed up the trucks. Next stop a Butcher for as much beef biltong as $50 will buy (which is pretty much). A few Cokes and crisps/snacks for the road, and then we made a beeline out of town. Royal Gassing up the Cruiser As in November, Kirsty had emailed an order to the farm located on the outskirts of town, where we stopped for our supply of just-picked veggies. I don’t eat many vegetables at home, but on safari, I cannot get enough. Fresh Produce The drive to the Valley is enjoyable, especially when everything is fresh and green, much different than my drive in November during the Months of the Sun. The road goes from tarmac, to somewhat tarmac, to dirt, and then finally the dirt track into camp (what becomes the daily home stretch!). A few police road blocks, but we were just waved through. The Cruiser chugged up the Escarpment with Big Red hot on our heels, and Ryan doing his best to keep a respectful distance. Buying Bananas En Route View of the Valley from the Escarpment Last year I witnessed the coming of the early rains, transforming a barren and brown landscape into a fresh eden of green bush and fragrant flowers. Guess what...it was still raining, at least on the Escarpment! The seasonal rains were good in some areas, but a bit late in others which impacted some of the rural farmers who’s initial plantings failed. One thing was for sure, as advertised, the bush would thick and green, with plenty of water around. I marvel at the different faces of Africa. Stormy Skies Ryan Kentucky Mud Bogging Big Red! CAMP Quite a few AR members have hunted Dande East with CMS, and the reports contain some excellent pictures of camp. Below are a few I managed to take. Camp was very comfortable, and soon felt like home. The client huts are spacious and well designed, in close proximity to the main dining and sundowner area. An early-to-bed guy, and not quite up to the social benchmarks set by some of Buzz’s other clients , if there had been another group in camp I probably would have struggled a bit with the chatter from around the campfire, but as it was we all hit the sack fairly early most nights (9’ish). Given the size of the East concession, CMS does not book multiple groups at the same time, so the cozy layout works out well. Dande East Main Camp After we settled into camp and unpacked our goodies, we zipped over to the range to confirm zero on Buzz’s loaner .375H&H Blazer. I had actually been the last client to use it, and as expected it shot well for both Buzz and I. Dinner was beef tenderloin, carrots, green beans (all perfectly prepared), potatoes, and a tart for desert. Looking at my journal, the final entry for the day reads: “Sitting on my porch, listening to the crickets chirping, birds roosting, and the occasional camp chatter, I can’t believe that I am lucky enough to be back in Africa.” Yes, indeed. THE TEAM Buzz uses a team approach to his hunting, and does so as good or better than anybody that I ever hunted with. All these guys are pros, and I greatly enjoy hunting with them. The first thing the guys ask when I arrive in town, then again at camp is, "Where's the boys?". Eddie in particular enjoys their company on the back of the truck, and they do his. Unfortunately on this hunt, due to work (Bill Jr) and college (Brett) schedules, neither were able to accompany me on this adventure. Being the first hunt of the season, there was some rust to shake off here and there, but after a few days, we were clicking. Buzz (Professional Hunter), Cryton (Tracker; Top-Left), Nyathi; Tracker (Top-Right), Eddie (Driver/Spotter; Front) Howard (Game Scout) Ryan (Cameraman & Team Player) Me (Client Hunter) HUNTING OVERVIEW (WHY DO I HUNT?) As mentioned earlier, in many ways this is “Part 2” of the November Hunt Report. Not to diminish the hunt in any way, but frankly is was more of the same – traditional elephant hunting. In the mornings we would drive the dirt bush roads looking for fresh spoor, and make the decision to follow or not depending on a variety of factors including the size and age of the track (as determined by the cracking and wear of the foot pad), the direction in which the elephant were moving relative to boarders and the wind, the age of the track, and what we thought may be further down the road. Often we would complete a loop or other intended route, and come back to the original tracks that were previously determined to be marginal. The thought is that although an 18-19 inch track typically indicates a younger elephant, this is not always the case, as elephants vary in body size especially from one region to the next. Likewise, I have followed quite a few 20+ inch tracks only to find a bull with poor ivory, begging the question of how many times had this particular bull been followed. We tracked the elephant until we caught the bulls to have a look (the majority of time), or were winded and rather than push them out of the area let them be, or had to stop due to a shared boarder with another area (in our case, the country of Mozambique). Sometimes the tracks were fresh, but most often they were from the previous night or even late evening of the day prior. As in November, the elephant were moving mostly during the night and taking refuge in the thick jesse during the days. They were also very switched-on, and the slightest mistake resulted in a spooked elephant. I believe there were a few reasons for this, including the full moon which played a big role in our first few days, the fact that some of these elephant were raiding the fields in Zimbabwe and Mozambique and knew there were risks involved, and the poaching pressure that the elephant are under. Moving illegally poached elephant tusks is easier now, and the demand for ivory from China is well documented. Granted, I do not have the experience of some, but I have been on quite a few elephant hunts over the past nine years, and this provides me with what I consider to be a fairly reliable sampling of the hunting conditions. Just like daily life in Harare has changed, so has the elephant hunting, at least in some of the areas. As Buzz has written here on AR, every bull elephant shot by CMS in Dande East has carried wounds from poacher’s bullets. While poaching with guns and snares is nothing new, the surge in poisoning is. Readily available, silent, and hard to detect, poisoning is death to an ecosystem as it systematically and indiscriminately kills all life. Animals drink the poisoned water, and die in the bush. Jackals, hyena and vultures eat the carrion, and die. The elephant poachers are interested only in ivory, not the meat, and of course getting the tusks out of a dead elephant is significantly easier than from a live one. They follow the elephant until it dies, then as long as the coast is clear, retrieve the tusks which eventually make their way out of the country. Young Bull Elephant Found in a Suspected Poisoned Water Hole (Nov-2011) Animals all over the world adapt their behavior to the conditions in which they live, and the ones that don’t, tend to not last very long. Elephants learn from past experiences and from those around them. This is not to say that the thrill of traditional elephant hunting or the trophy potential is any less than it was in recent times, and I am sure that historically there were subtle but noticeable differences in their behavior. I believe we are still in the golden age of modern elephant hunting in terms of availability and affordability, and encourage anyone so inclined to experience an elephant hunt – especially an old-school, traditional, tracking elephant hunt - to do so sooner rather than later. For me, this is the only kind of elephant hunt that I am interested in. A few words to those who may have never hunted elephant, or shot anything period - as was the case with me the first 36 years of my life. I was not anti-hunting and while shooting and firearms was part of my upbringing, hunting was not. My father did not hunt, nor did any of my friends or mentors. I was like most are today I suppose, rather ambivalent yet susceptible to what I read and heard. Stereotypes and dead and bleeding deer tied to the hoods of pickups’ driving through my little hometown only helped to slant my attitude. Life gets in the way, and I became busy with career and family, with more than enough on my plate to keep me busy and occupied. But there comes a time in all of our lives where we are in need of “something more”. It was my father-in-law who introduced me to hunting (Thanks Bob!). I soon realized that the passion was there all along. I have always enjoyed the outdoors and found solace there. Thanks to my Mother I have a love of nature and animals, something that seemingly contradicts the desire to hunt, but I have observed that many times it is those who hunt that have the healthiest relationship with wildlife. Compassion for wildlife and hunting are not mutually exclusive, and in fact, they walk hand-in-hand. We all hunt for different reasons, and for me it is less about “the kill” then it is the anticipation, adventure, physicality and overall experience, although I have found killing, or perhaps it is really “the intent to kill”, necessary for reasons that I don’t fully understand. During the late morning and early afternoons, we would typically either be in the jesse (my favorite place on earth!), or driving looking for tracks while being more selective in what we followed. Not only is tracking during the heat of the early season mid-day physically difficult, but the elephant would often be hunkered down and usually with a group of cows. Often we followed lone bulls or small groups for hours, only to have them join up with a cow herd. Sometimes we were following the bulls tracks, when parallel to us, there was a herd of cows and young walking. Other times, the bulls would be trailing the herd. This is not necessarily a bad thing, and tracking can get easier as long as we did not loose the bull’s tracks in the clutter of the cows and younger bulls, but once the elephant are caught the evaluation and shooting dynamics are different. Instead of a few pair of eyes and trunks (noses, and what they give up on eyesight they more than make up with their extraordinary sense of smell), there are many, and getting a shot is not always easy. The bush, jesse in particular, is thick in the early season and elephants blend in amazingly well. This is of course the lure the tuskless cow hunting, as it forces the hunters to get in close and mix it up with the elephant, often who are aware of your presence. But when hunting trophy bulls, which is a game of numbers as one needs to follow a lot of tracks and look over many elephant (unless one is lucky which I ain’t!), it can present additional obstacles. As I have written before, the physical element aside, what I enjoy moist about a tracking hunt, including elephant and other game found in areas that lends itself to this style of hunting, is the opportunity to get a glimpse into the life of the animal being followed. Typically the first animal followed is not the one shot, and it takes many days and many miles to find the right animal. Unless an elephant is moving from point-A to point-B and we just happened to cut his tracks somewhere in between, we would inevitably uncover various pieces of his daily life. Where and what he ate, slept, drank, and where he were going. Is the bull in musth, as evidenced by the pungent smell and body secretions? If so, he is in search of cows and although likely will be distracted if/when caught, he won’t be in a mood to mess around. Were they bad boys during the night and having been chased by villagers being ultra-cautious? Have they been recently hunted by poachers and saw one of their own fall to the thunder that burns? Or, as is most enjoyable, are they having just another typical elephant day, going about their business in a usual and unmolested manner. With some experience, one can anticipate what their next actions will be, noting of course that nothing is absolute and sometimes the lucky animals are the ones with the most random behavior. Late afternoons, we would generally walk to waterholes or other areas known to hold elephant, such as the block of jesse between the Zimbabwe and Mozambique boarder. There is always the chance of stumbling across elephant, or finding fresh spoor as they begin moving for the evening. Most times it helps identify where there is action so that future efforts can be concentrated in these areas. Late afternoon walks are quite enjoyable too, as the pace is usually more relaxed and the team is in more of a spot and stalk mode. There is always the possibility of happening upon a trophy kudu, bushbuck, duiker or warthog, and the simple glimpse of any wildlife can be a welcome sight after miles of head-down walking. The days blended on this hunt, especially the first few. It’s funny, my overall memory of this hunt is one of excitement and adventure, dealing with and overcoming challenges including limitations imposed by my injured hip, culminating in “the shot”…but re-reading my journal three months later, it sort of was the same stuff over and over again. As such, I am not sure how interesting of a read this will be. Rather than mundanely documenting, or over embellishing, I will attempt to transcribe the notes from my journal (which are rather sparse during the first few days of the hunt) and identify the highlights of the hunt via pictures. I use basic field cameras and do not have the passion and talent for photography of some on the forum who are very gifted in this respect. So instead...I’ll try to make it up in volume!!! Please note that I am using a lesser quality web resolution in an effort to not hammer readers on lower-bandwidth connections, including wireless tablets. HUNTING DAY #1 - TUESDAY Wake up call 5:15 and after a hearty breakfast of oatmeal and yogurt, we were on the road by 6am. The dirt tracks were still wet from the recent rains, and we got stuck multiple times in the gooey black cotton soil. Buzz’s winch got put to good use. Winching the Cruiser Giant Fallen Baobab We tracked a herd of three bulls mixed in with some cows, the largest bull with a 19-inch well-worn pad. After about 3.5hrs of tracking in mopane scrub, the early-afternoon wind swirled, and they smelled is. The big bull passed through a herd of about 15-20 elephant but kept going, and the decision was made to not push him out of the area. Checking for Fresh Elephant Tracks There was not much elephant movement, so in the afternoon we took a walk towards the Mozambique boarder where a large block of jesse was thought to be holding elephant during the days. Afternoon Walk in the Thick “Mozambique Jesse” Sundowners and biltong by the campfire, a cool shower, then dinner featuring pork chops, veggies and potatoes, preceded by a wonderful Guinea Fowl appetizer courtesy of the previous hunter (thanks Gunny!!!). HUNTING DAY #2 - WEDNESDAY We passed several cow herd tracks before locating the ~18-inch spoor of a bull on Binya Road, which we followed. He took us for a walk through the mopane scrub, past several water pans. He met up with another bull, and they eventually joined up with a cow herd at “Poacher’s Pan”. Early Season Water Pan After hours of walking, we were still far behind based on the sign. Buzz radioed Eddie, and we cut to the nearest road where Eddie was waiting. Bush Lunch Around 1:30 we drove to the block of jesse appropriately named The Mozambique Jesse, which we walked for a couple of hours. We found and tracked a cow herd, which despite getting quite close, we never actually saw in the sea of green bush. We met the truck and went to another area where there were some known water pans. Stuck Again in the Sticky Black Cotton Soil We did a fast-paced walk and checked for tracks around the pans, no elephant but plenty of buffalo spoor. We jumped an old warthog and some impala rams. Tally for the day was 10-12 miles walked, not bad for the second day, and a guy with no cartilage in his right hip. On the ride back to camp we saw six kudu bulls (nothing great in terms of trophy quality) heading into the cotton fields for a full moon evening of crop raiding. HUNTING DAY #3 - THURSDAY As overall elephant activity was minimal in the areas where we were focusing our efforts, we acted on a report from the villages, as relayed to Council then to camp, of 27 crop raiding elephant. Woohoo! We drove 1.5hrs south to the foot of the Zambezi Escarpment. Broken-down Lorry on the Main Road Cotton Field Examining the spoor and questioning the farmers, we confirmed our strong suspicion that while there was indeed a large group of elephant raiding the maize crops, they were all cows and young. 27...well it was as good a number as any I guess! Maize Field Raided the Previous Night by 27 Elephant On the way back, the guys spotted the track of a large bull, approximately 22-inches in size, as measured by the rear foot. However, it was from the previous day and not one that we could follow. After lunch we attempted a bush nap but the common flies were too bad, so we mounted up for a walk again towards the Mozambique boarder, this time looking to walk thru some open country and hit the jesse where it began, then take a slow walk through the block to the point where we had entered yesterday. We were focusing on this area, as last year Buzz was successful with a decently sized bull, but saw another which could have gone over 60lbs. The walk started thru some thorny bush, ripe with colorful, fragrant wildflowers. Some of the Many Wildflowers It was a very pretty area, which led into an open grassland. We marched for a few hours, but due to a slight navigational error, the block of jesse evaded us. Afternoon Walk in Open Country ”Um, I Think We Should Go That Way” With darkness approaching, we called Eddie and coordinated a meeting point. A few Jolly Ranchers lifted the spirits, and for excitement on the way back to camp a large cobra gave the guys on the back a fright as it raised it’s head and looked in as we drove past. Somehow, Eddie who was on the right-hand side, switched places with Ryan who now found himself closest to the road. This brought up stories of when Eddie was riding in the front and they encountered a snake, and Eddie made like a monitor lizard and scrambled up the hood and windshield of the Cruiser...and various other funny stories which I’ll leave in the bush. Eddie tried to see the humor. I sat on the back a while on the ride and talked with Howard, our Game Scout. He asked how old I was, to which I replied 47. He looked puzzled, and replied “Naw, you can’t be!”. I was not sure which direction this was going, so I said reiterated that yes I was and soon I would be turning 48. He considered this for a while, and in good English, replied “It is just hard to believe, as in my country most men are dead by 40, so in Zimbabwe you are actually quite old”. A sobering thought, and looking at Howard, who is to me a young 28, I hoped he would manage to beat the odds. Dinner was the most delicious kudu that I have ever had (thanks again Gunny & Al!). I love game meat, and on my elephant hunts in areas with sparse plainsgame populations, I truly miss it. If/when I get back to Africa, hopefully next year with my sons Billy and Brett if at all possible, I think I need to visit an area for at least part of the time with lots of plainsgame, it has been a while. HUNTING DAY #4 – GOOD FRIDAY Drove the “loop roads” which were put in the end of last season until about 10:30. Lacking a better option, and with me expressing my love of the jesse, we walked the Mozambique Jesse from 10:30 to 4:30. It was great, and somehow for me the hours pass much more quickly in the jesse than they do during open country walking. We jumped a herd of about 10 buffalo, but there was no way to evaluate them, let alone get off a shot. We followed an ele bull with a ~17-inch track for a while, marveling at his ability to silently navigate the same bush that we struggled with. We were very close most of the time, jumping him twice. At a water hole where he drank, I made a bit too much noise I think. Apparently he was standing rather close, seemingly in wait to see what it was exactly that was following him. He heard and/or winded us, and moved quickly towards the east (Mozambique), forcing us to turn back. Thick & Green Mozambique Jesse The area was so remote that Ryan and I talked about being the first people ever to have ventured here. That is, until we came upon the fallen Mahogany tree. Ok, so maybe the first white dudes, at least in a while! Mahogany Tree Cut for Dugout Canoe Removing Tusks from Dead Elephant Cow We covered a lot of ground today, and on the way back to camp Buzz and I talked about the impact of the full moon, or at least we hoped this was the cause. It was only day-4, no reason to even begin to remotely panic, although the reality was that as I have shot other trophy elephant, my stated objective was a 50lb or better bull, and given the number of bulls we were seeing this was going to be difficult unless we got lucky. Back at camp, I took an inventory...leg’s holding up, no sunburn or dehydration, tsetse’s non-existent, stomach a-ok, no blisters, and except for the usual brush cuts on the legs no injuries of concern. Good to go. Dinner was, as usual, formally announced by Crispen and Alpha. I believe this was suggested by Rob Jolly on one of his hunts, and it is a nice tradition. Dinner was farm-raised Tilapia, a refreshing fresh salad, pasta with a meat sauce and a rich chocolate dessert. Bed by 8:30. Alpha (Waiter) Crispen (Chef) HUNTING DAY #5 - SATURDAY An early morning track was promising, but the bull made a straight-line to the Mozambique boarder after spending the night with some cows. PH and Hunter getting a bit testy. Nyathi & Eddie One of the Few Flat Tires Knobby Thorn Tree A few clicks down the road there were more fresh tracks, this time a herd with a bull which led into multiple smaller groups of bulls and cows. Fresh Elephant Dung The guys did a great job tracking, and Cryton as always had an awareness of the wind as well as the location of each elephant, leading us around and through the herds so that we were able to give them a good look. Nothing spectacular, one ~30lb bull and another with a broken tusk, a huge tuskless, but at least we were actually seeing elephant. We left the elephant undisturbed, and hit the road around noon after a good 4.5hrs of walking. PH and Hunter feeling better. After lunch and a power nap at camp, we again walked the scenic Mozambique Jesse. We found and GPS’ed two water pans along the Zim/Moz boarder. Howard was proving to be a real trooper and always eager to help, offering to carry my Lott when I began to slow, and untangling me when I got hung up in the thorns. HUNTING DAY #6 – EASTER SUNDAY The skies were bright blue today, filled with promise and hope. Eddie rode on the front of the truck, and we had a few false alarms. As anyone who has hunted elephant or buffalo knows, when tracks are found on the dirt track, everybody gets out of the truck and evaluates the tracks, looking to see how many, how big, what direction, etc. After one such occurrence, there was chatter and Eddie was getting some good natured ribbing by the guys. I asked what was unique about this track, to which I was told that it was actually not an elephant track but where a bird had taken a dust bath. One of the hundreds of little things that occur during a safari that at the time is hilarious. Eddie is a great guy, good-natured and dependable…but he tends to get the lions share of abuse from his mates! By 9:30 we were on the trail of two bulls, one with a nice 20-inch track and lots of character. The pair had come from Mozambique and were heading west at some speed. They did not stop to feed nor even snack on the mopane scrub as they walked. They defecated just once, and is was quite runny, indicating that they were under some stress. We hypothesized that they had been raiding the fields during the night, and were now looking to put some distance between them and the angry villagers. Cryton indicated that there was a road ahead, and Buzz radioed Eddie to meet us. We intercepted each other and paused for a bite to eat and drink. We became quite fond of “Chimodho Bread” which is a moist and heavy corn bread made by the locals. Nyathi apparently makes a mean Chimodho, and after scrounging his, he gave the recipe to Crispen so he could prepare a loaf for Buzz, Ryan and I to split each day when we were craving carbs. I also had my usual assortment of Clif bars, which I love but the PH’s think look too much like hyena crap to eat. Chimodho Corn Bread Continuing on the spoor, the bush went from open grassland and mopane scrub to thick jesse. There were a few mopane leaves on the ground, indicating that at least one of the bulls was nibbling, but the leaves were limp and turning (not a moist bright green). This meant they were still likely 3-4 hours ahead of us. I reminded myself to be vigilant with my footsteps and not get sloppy and let my guard down. Sure enough, 5 minutes later Cryton and Nyathi hunkered down, pointing ahead. A third elephant had joined the pair, perhaps he was in close proximity all this time paralleling the others. They were feeding in the thickest vegetation that we had yet to see on this hunt. Guided by the sounds of breaking limbs and digestive noises, doing our best to stay upwind as the breeze swirled, we worked our way in. The first bull we encountered was the largest, and after some maneuvering Buzz deemed the largest tusk maybe 40lbs and the smallest 35. A decent bull, and depending on the expectations of the hunter, a shooter. He was expertly tracked, and it would have been a great setup to make a broadside shot, either a side-brain or a heart/lung, especially with a scoped rifle allowing one to find a tunnel to accurately place the bullet through the thick bush. The bull suspected something, perhaps hearing our footsteps on the browning leaves that were already starting to cover the ground, and began walking away from. We were able to evaluate the other two bulls, a ~30 pounder and a young bull. We left them in peace to feed and headed back to camp for lunch. This felt like proper elephant hunting, and things were beginning to click. After lunch, we tracked a group of bulls but realized the tracks were from late the following evening and abandoned the chase. On the way back to camp we stopped at a few villages to enquire about any recent elephant activity. I remembered that at home my family was just beginning to prepare the Easter Sunday meal. In November I missed Thanksgiving and now Easter. Mental note to self – don’t push you luck for a while! Village Scenes HUNTING DAY #7 - MONDAY Woke a bit sore today, starting to feel the cumulative effect of the miles accumulated thus far. We picked up tracks early (7am) of an 18-19 inch bull that was worth following. It was cool initially, but the sun began to heat up quickly (although nothing like November, after a string of early-season hunts, I am due for a chilly July “winter hunt”!). The bull was marching on a well-worn sandy elephant trail, which is the worst terrain for my leg, and I struggled to keep pace with our now fully tuned and raring to go lead tracker. The bull’s dung, full of grain and sunflower seeds, indicated that he had been eating in the fields. We walked steady for 2hrs, cutting another main road. Although we did not stop, it was comforting to know that if we needed to turn back, the return trip would be somewhat shortened. The sun was hot, and thankfully the tracks led into some jesse which offered a bit of relief. Once again, this was an elephant with a plan, and instead of stopping he begin to go in somewhat of a semi-circle heading back towards Mozambique. There were lots of tracks, and Ryan, Howard and I waited as Buzz and the guys fanned out trying to see in what direction the bull was heading, and if he was with the herd or passed through. I rested under a large baobab, thinking about where I was…in the middle of the African bush, with elephants screaming off in the distance, and even a vulture circling me overhead! Baobab Ten minutes later Cryton called on the radio indicating that there were lots of elephant and that we should come. Nyathi came back to meet us part way, and I enjoyed being “the gun”, addressing my fantasy to solo hunt an elephant with a trusted tracker. There must have been 50 elephant spread out over multiple 10-15 animal herds. Cryton again did a magnificent job of maneuvering us in/around the elephant in a very serious game of hide-and-seek. At times we were within 10-yards of feeding elephant, not because we wanted to necessarily but in the thick bush one needs to get close to be able to determine the tusk size. And sometimes, you just about walk into them as they stand silently in the darkness and shadows of the jesse. Only once in what must have been an hour was our presence detected. One of the bulls walked in our direction, forcing us to retreat. As soon as he crossed our sent trail, he bolted, but for whatever reason he did not go far and unlike the cows he did not take the rest of the group with him. The last group had one large-bodied bull. The bush smelled pungent, and green ooze on the ground confirmed that he was in musth. We proceeded with extreme caution. He was not hard to find, as he was trumpeting and running with this trunk in the air and his business end bouncing off the ground, chasing a young tuskless. The poor cow was about one-third his size, her rear legs buckling as he mounted her. Unfortunately or otherwise he was carrying only 35-40lbs on one side and had broken off the other. The herd became agitated, and Buzz decided it was best to pull out, as even if we were careful we still could be caught up in an “unintended charge” if the cows decided to run our way with the crazy bull in tow. After a 45 minute walk thru the bush, we met up with Eddie. It was now 1:15pm, it had been an adrenaline filled and mentally draining 6hrs from when we left the truck. Arriving back at camp, we decided that we had enough fun for one day. I knocked around camp, took pictures, and caught up in my journal. With some cell phone consultation from Bongi, the East's camp manager who was currently tracking on an elephant with Myles, Buzz and Ryan sorted out some issues with the camp's main generator. Ryan grew up on a farm, and defines the term “handy”. Easter dinner consisted of pork roast, salad and veggies. The Close of Another Long & Exciting Day HUNTING DAY #8 - TUESDAY It was considerably more humid today. My journal entry begins with the word “brutal”. We picked up tracks of a large-bodied bull with a 21-22 inch track. We were hoping to catch him before he joined up with the cows in the Mozambique Jesse. We didn’t. Head-Down Marching on Elephant Spoor He went through 3-4 separate herds before mixing in with a group, at which point despite the guys best efforts, we lost his trail. His pads were worn smooth from wear and age, and by all accounts this was a clever elephant, using the cow herds to his advantage. This was discouraging, as he was a big elephant, and we were all imagining the thick long ivory that he had to of been carrying. In years past, Buzz and I almost never failed to catch the elephant to at least have a look, and when it happens on what we think to be a very good elephant, it is frustrating. We’ll never know what he was, could have been that cunning old 70-pounder…or a wondering rat! We did discover three new water pans, which Buzz eagerly GPS’ed and added to his collection. Water Water Everywhere On the way out of the jesse, we happened upon a resting group of buffalo mixed in with some elephant. Cryton took the lead, and aggressively perused both buff and ele! I recall thinking how fearless he was, considering that he was unarmed. One old buffalo glared at us from the cover of the jesse, bolting before we could react. The highlight was a big old tuskless that we almost walked into, she was literally on the other side of a bush not more than 10 feet away. How we passed by her unnoticed I don’t know, I suppose the wind was in our favor and she just figured we were those annoying buffalo! By the time we made it back to the road, I had a slight dehydration headache and once this happens, I have found that it is impossible to catch up. Waiting for the Truck after a Long & Hot Walk After a bush lunch, and spurred on by the now active mopane bees, we went back to some tracks that we had seen earlier in the day but passed up. It was a group of 5 males, including 2 mature looking bulls. The problem was that the spoor was from the previous night, now some 12hrs old. We diligently tracked them for several hours in the mid-day sun, in and out of a nice jesse block where the guys were hopeful they would have stopped, allowing us to make up some time on them. We were going on 8 hours of hard walking with evening approaching when we threw in the towel, realizing that these elephant were still in the area and that perhaps we could cut their tracks tomorrow, which would hopefully then be fresher. We got back to camp at around 6:30. I performed some maintenance on the Lott, which had gotten rusty from the moist jesse. Sundowners (water for me, better stuff for Buzz and Ryan!), shower and another super dinner (butternut squash soup, chicken and rice curry, rum pudding). I was out like a light at 9pm. | ||
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HUNTING DAY #9 - WEDNESDAY The gentle “Hello, Hello” wake-up call came at 5am this morning. Enjoying our coffee in the stillness of the pre-dawn, we commiserated around the warm campfire before breakfast. Buzz mapped our plan for the morning, which was to head back to the Kapururira Road and cut the various dirt tracks in the adjacent block in an effort to locate the 5 bulls from yesterday. Failing that, we would check out the loop roads, and if no fresh tracks were found, late morning we would pay a visit to the Mozambique Jesse. We passed the sign for the Kapururira Primary School, and began scanning the dirt in front of us for fresh tracks. They had not crossed the main road, which was good as likely they were still in Zimbabwe, so we began systematically checking the internal roads to try to pick up their spoor. At one point, we dropped Cryton off to cut a block in an effort to pick up their tracks, while we canvassed the far end of the area. We arrived at the meeting spot just ahead of Cryton, who despite running for the last 20 minutes, looked no worse for the wear. Continuing on, the guys finally spotted the spoor of what appeared to be 7-8 elephant, 5 bulls and some cows. This was likely the same group as yesterday. By this time in the hunt, we had done enough walks that very little if any words needed to be said. After confirming that the tracks were fresh, each of us would begin to prepare our necessary equipment for what could be anything from a 30 minute stroll to an all-day affair. I apply suntan lotion to critical areas while at camp, and only need to re-apply later in the afternoon, which saves time. Howard was carrying my backpack, and in this I had my essential gear. I would add 4-5 waters from the coolbox, which was in addition to the bottles carried by Nyathi. On my culling belt I carry about 10 extra rounds, 5 on either side. Eddie would hand me a water bottle which I chugged before every walk, then my rifle from the back rack. Stepping away from the group and pointing in a safe direction, I would top off with a “lucky” round (3+1), which is usually one that I have carried on previous hunts with a nice weathered patina copper case. At the same time, Buzz was preparing his belt, locating his binoculars and hat from behind the seat, and chambering a round into his .416 Rem. Ryan’s responsibility was the camera, and generally he was standing in the road, ready to go, by the time Buzz and I were kitted. There is always a calm excitement in the air. With a nod, we set off in single file…Cryton, Nyathi, Buzz, me, Howard then Ryan. It takes a few hundred yards to work out the kinks, and we were all a bit sore from the walking yesterday. Mopane scrub and grass dominated the landscape, some of which was wet from isolated showers during the night. Although the elephant were moving in the right direction, into the core of the Dande East concession, they were walking with the wind at their backs. The breeze was strong, and if we caught up to the elephant at the wrong time, it would certainly send them running long before we ever saw them. We needed to be careful as we knew that at least at the moment, they were still in this block, as we had not seen any tracks of them departing. The blocks are huge, and of course it is not uncommon to follow elephant for many miles only to have them cross over your tire tracks from earlier in the day. We were walking for about two hours when we got a break. The group had stopped to feed in the open mopane scrub, and after tracking in circles for a bit, the guys fanned out trying to see where the elephant had finally decided to leave the area. Ryan, Howard and I did our best to stay in the middle of the group, moving with whoever seemed to have the freshest trail, while not getting ahead of them, nor making any noise. There is a bit of an art to this. We had yet to get on elephant in the open, nor had we seen any bulls, even young ones, from the truck while driving. Although hopeful, I was mentally prepared for a long day that eventually ended up in the jesse. Both Nyathi and Cryton were on fresh tracks, heading in opposite directions, meaning that the group had split. After a quick confab, we made the obvious choice to follow the group walking into the wind, which just happened to contain the bulls. This was a good sign. The tracks were fresh, and the elephant appeared to be calm, meaning that they had not winded us. Then it happened, Cryton and Nyathi squatted, pointing ahead. Under the shade of some large trees stood a group of elephant bulls. Things began to unfold quickly. Buzz worked his binoculars, ducking and bobbing up and down and side to side, trying to get a good look. I could hear Ryan fire up the camera from behind, as he moved to our right to begin filming. We had scrub for cover, but the elephant were still about 75 yards away and the breeze was reliably blowing into out faces. I saw one big-bodied bull carrying about 30 pounds of ivory, and a few others that I didn’t get a good look at. One snapped branch, hidden under the grass was all it took to send them running (and no, it was not me this time!). We left them go and took a 5 minute break before pushing forward. They had not gone far, and we got on them again after another 10 minutes of careful stalking. They had neither seen nor smelled us. I can see them now in my minds eye, skylined on a slight rise ahead of us, standing under the shade of a large tree. There were six, including two bigger-bodied bulls and one smaller bull with long ivory in proportion to his body. Stepping forward, he made for an impressive sight. Buzz’s eyes widened and I knew that I was going to shoot this elephant. A quick exchange with Buzz, and it was time to step up to the plate. Location from Which the Shot Was Taken Positioned on the right of the burnt tree pictured above, I was unable to get a clear sight path, there was too much scrub in the way. To my left, Buzz had a clear view. The bull was just some 20-25 yards away, standing slightly angled. He did not present a frontal opportunity, nor was the angle acceptable for a side brain or body shot. Buzz, as quietly as he could, urged me to shoot. I had to reposition. Safety off, I lifted the barrel of my rifle up and over the tree that was serving as my cover. I now had a clear shot, but the bull was beginning to get nervous, repositioning his body and shaking his head from side to side indicating that he was about ready to run. With each movement, the dynamics of the shot changed considerably. Still, at no time did he present a solid frontal or side shot. I could feel the tension build, as the Team also was well aware of the fact that our window of opportunity was rapidly closing. Looking back at the tape, it was only seconds, but felt a lot longer. Then it occurred to me, forget the broom handle through the ears, shoot for the base of the spine, the pivot point if you will. He settled his head for what I was certain to be one last time. I positioned the front blade just below his left eye and fired. The result was dramatic. Despite the Lott’s recoil, I saw his rear legs collapse and his head and trunk fly high into the air. He crumbled to the ground. I had another round ready, but thankfully it was not necessary. We exchanged wide-eyed glances of disbelief, grinning and still not exhaling….did that just happen!?!?! The other bulls huddled then quickly ran off, making every effort to shrink their bodies and hide behind their buddy in case the thunder that stings struck again. I unchambered the live round, the elephant was dead. We reached him as his legs shuttered one last time, another characteristic sign of a fatal brain shot. Blood was coming out of both ears. Bullet Placement The Happy Team - Cryton, Nyathi & Howard (Left-Right) The Front Foot of a Mature Bull Elephant After the handshakes and man-hugs, we spent some time taking pictures, and running our hands over the beautiful long ivory. I knew from experience that the longest tusk was not going to go 50 pounds, and I was pretty certain of this before I pulled the trigger based on several smaller-bodied bulls that I had shot in the Omay. It didn’t matter, as the experience of the hunt was perfect, as was the shot. I have taken elephants with frontal brain, rear brain (through the neck behind the ear), and even one running side brain shot, but this was the most rewarding. I could walk away with this and be quite happy. Buzz gave me his knife to use to cut the tail, and we covered the elephant with brush to hide him from vultures and protect the meat as much as possible until we could get back with the recovery wagon. Covering the Elephant I walked off the distance to the shot (22 yards), and recovered the .458 Lott case. It was just after 11am, and the Kapururira Road was about a mile away. Buzz radioed Eddie to meet us with the Cruiser. George had previously driven the tractor and trailer to the village to be worked on, which I suspect was also a good staging area in preparation of a hopeful recovery. Independence Day was in a few days, and the entire village was eagerly anticipating our success. As recoveries go, this would be pretty simple, and far easier than if we had shot the elephant somewhere deep in the Mozambique Jesse. So once again, it was all just about as perfect as one could hope for. Gathering the Tractor The guys cut a trail from the main road to the elephant, and we made it there with the Cruiser far ahead of the old Case Tractor who’s buggered steering gave the guys fits all night. Clearing the Area for the Pictures Lead Tracker Cryton The recovery went well, noting that there is a lot more meat on a bull than a cow, and it takes time. Several villagers tagged along with the tractor, George said that they jumped on and refused to get off! At first Buzz was not too keen on this, as it can create chaos at the recovery site. However, a deal was cut for the stomach and some odds-ends of meat in exchange for their assistance. As it turned out they proved helpful, and earned their share of meat, and then some. Recovery of the Meat Using the Cruiser to Roll the Elephant Carcass Over for Butchering Spitting Cobra – More to Follow! The bull’s digestive track contained seeds and grain, so obviously these elephant were raiding fields, possibly in Mozambique which explains why they were seeking shelter in Zim at the moment. Also of interest, the bull had a peculiar chip out of one of his tusks, and when I get the ivory home I will have to examine it more closely. It could have been from fighting, or from a poacher’s bullet. Speaking of which, the right front shoulder of this elephant had two noticeable wounds. During the recovery, we were able to dig out a steel “musket ball” (pictured later) from the most recent. The three wounds were from various points in time, but all within a few inches of each other. The poachers obviously had some awareness of elephant anatomy, although they were shooting their underpowered weapons low and into the mass of the shoulder, instead of just behind it. It was a sobering reminder of the struggles that these elephant face. The Recovery Took Well Into the Night HUNTING DAY #10 - THURSDAY Today was a “chill day” for all. After breakfast, we loaded the front left shoulder in the Cruiser to take to the “Mudzini” (the local Witch Doctor). It is supposed to the be shoulder that the elephant fell on, but that was the shoulder riddled with the poachers bullets, and the surrounding meat was rotten. We had to leave the shoulder with his liaison, as “special hours” (something like 4am) are required to see the Mudzini. Delivering the Shoulder to the Mudzini (Witch Doctor) A Fixer-Upper We then drove to the kill site to pick up any remaining carcass, and burn the grass and so as to minimize the potential impact on other elephant. The concept is that elephant avoid areas where other elephant have died, and as the hunting in Dande East takes place over a shortened season and is somewhat reliant on bulls coming in from Mozambique, precautions must be taken as otherwise after a few successful hunts the elephant will begin to avoid the area. Burning the Kill Site Back at camp I spent some time at the skinning shed where the elephant meat was being processed and dried into biltong. The majority of the meat would be distributed to the villagers, and enjoyed during their Independence Day celebration. It will have been a very long time since most of these people tasted meat, excluding locusts. Rest assured that not all the meat made it out of camp! The guys recovered another one of the poachers bullets from the shoulder, which made for an interesting picture and curio. Drying Biltong – Just in Time for Independence Day Festivities! Before dinner we drove to the current Chief’s village of Gonono to deliver the elephant trunk. I say current, as by the time you read this George from camp will have replaced him. George has been working for CMS for a while, and is a real solid guy and a hard worker. I think it will be a bit strange for George, going from the camp skinner to a position of reverence and local power, but Buzz feels that he will do just fine and serve the people well. Delivering the Trunk to the Current Chief’s Village The guys in the back of the truck had a heck of a good time with a rubber cobra that Buzz picked up somewhere along the way. The local people are obviously terrified of snakes, and reacted in very animated fashion when surprised by the rubber imposter, all coiled up and poised to strike. Most times the guys would draw the attention of a group of people, have them gather around, then toss it like a Frisbee into the middle, and roll about on the floor of the truck with laughter as the people scattered in all directions. Some of the young men literally jumped out of their shoes with their first bound. The kids were the funniest, as they thought that they were getting candy, running forward only to have to throw it in reverse, legs and arms flailing in all directions. The most clever punking was to an older gentlemen pushing his bike along the sandy track on which we were driving. We stopped and put his bike in the back, and he jumped up onto the high seat, quite pleased with his good fortune. Aw, what a nice thing to do, I am thinking. Then, very matter-of-factly, Cryton placed the snake on his lap, and they just stared at each other, the man afraid to blink or this trained pet snake would surely attack. He was skeptical even once he knew it was made of rubber/plastic. The rural people of Zimbabwe are so good natured and always seem to find humor in things, especially when the victim is one of their mates. There was only one unintentional causality, a small girl in a village who, with time, should recover. Hopefully a handful of Jolly Ranchers was adequate compensation. Buzz Traumatizing Little Girls with His Snake Before dark, we took an hour walk in the general vicinity of where on the first hunt of the season Alan and Gunny had ever so graciously left us a 57” kudu bull. We didn’t see no stinkin kudu! Of course, we ain’t no Al neither! HUNTING DAY #11 - FRIDAY With a few more days left on the hunt, Buzz and I talked over our options. It was early and the fishing on the Zambezi would likely not be that great. Mana Pools was way too far away. So I opted to hunt for the cunning and elusive 42 inch Buffalo of Dande East. We had been seeing buffalo sign throughout the hunt, and last year several dagga boys were spotted including one tank of a bull. As the buffalo would come out of CMS’s shared Dande quota, it would not be available to me on a trophy fee basis. I would have to pay for a 7-day hunt, less a discount for the PH fees, plus the buffalo trophy. So at ~$7900, it had better be the best buffalo of my life, as it would most certainly be the last! I knew there was little chance, but it was an opportunity to continue hunting, even on a casual basis, which I much prefer to long days moping around camp. I have never left early on a hunt, and never ever intend to. The days are too precious. And this is one of the factors that differentiates most any hunt in Africa from the majority (albeit not all) of hunts in North America…once the primary animals is down there is always something to do. The Team was not at the same level of intensity as a few days prior. These guys thrive on elephant hunting, and the fact is that hunting buffalo, although offering many of the same attributes, does not quite compare. I understood, as I couldn’t help but to feel the same way too. I fear that to some extent, elephant hunting has ruined me. I hope not, as I suspect that my future holds a lot more plainsgame hunting than it does dangerous game. We went to the area where the old dagga boys had been consistently crossing the road, not far from the big fallen baobab pictured earlier. It was perfect buffalo habitat, tall browning grass with pockets of woodland offering shade, and plenty of water and mud holes to wallow in. Naturally, now that we were hunting them, they were nowhere to be found. We continued on. The guys did spot the tracks of a single bull crossing the road, but it was in a field of tall grass and tracking would have been difficult and time-consuming. We did an exploratory walk into an area where the guys had never been, and discovered a huge pan of water, which Buzz GPS’ed and labeled as “Bill’s Pan”. I was honored. Bill’s Big Pan In the afternoon, back at the skinning shed, we traced the path of the bullet. I was anxious to do this, as in recent hunts, it never seemed to work out either due to logistics or timing (such as in November, shooting the tuskless on the last hour of the last day). There were two shots in particular that I and the PH thought were perfectly placed, that downed the elephant, but failed to kill it. I also had one shot that looked marginal that was an immediate lights-out. Knowing what path the bullet took relative to the shot offered, how the bullet performed, and the general anatomy of an elephant skull seen in person is very helpful in knowing what to do next time. Pictures and 2-D simulations are good, but there is nothing like the real thing. Please forgive the gruesomeness of these pictures, and I have purposely not posted a “frontal angle” to hopefully avoid upsetting anybody. To be honest, I don’t enjoy poking around dead critters, but once I remind myself that it is essentially no different than the Thanksgiving Day turkey, it puts it into perspective. In the pictures, you can see the Woodleigh’s path indicated by the wire. The .500gr bullet entered above the tusk, exiting the skull and reentering at the back of the temporal area, before passing through the back of the brain and into the base of the spinal column where the head and spine connect. No wonder it had such an immediate and dramatic effect. Cryton gently hosed out the area of brain matter, and the bullet fell to the ground. It had been resting at the base of the spinal column, as pictured below. Poachers “Bullets” Next to my Recovered 500gr Woodleigh Solid Fresh Bullet Hole from which the Round Steel Musket Ball was Recovered Staying on the move, the Cruiser was loaded and we headed south to the base of the Escarpment, to the area where the 27 elephant had been terrorizing the villagers. Along the way were the two kids pictured below, selling watermelons for a Dollar each to passerby’s. I suspect business was somewhat slow, so imagine their jubilation as the wealthy safari hunter and his eager to please professional companion approached in their Cruiser, a back full of hungry locals with tip money spilling out of the pockets of their green coveralls. Now imagine their reaction that instead of a handful of pencils and rock candy, a trained pet snake is thrust at them. The snake landed upside down, but it didn’t matter, they knew what it was and they were certain that they were going to die. The youngest had the best plan, which was to open both hands that had been holding the watermelon lengthwise, and run. The snake hit the ground at about the same time as the watermelon, which split into two pieces in spectacular fashion. Children Selling Watermelons Being young, they recovered quickly. We of course bought all the watermelons they had, and I again provided partial compensation in the form of Jolly Ranchers. Oh, and if you are curious like Buzz was, cattle are not inherently afraid of snakes, at least plastic ones. Nor do they eat them. When my son Brett and I hunted with Buzz in Deka Tail (south-western Zimbabwe near the Zambezi Falls), Ryan was along as our cameraman [link to the Report can be found a the end of this report in my Signature]. It was a very physical hunt, and although we did not shoot an elephant, we got on many and literally were running on them by the end of the trip. This had been Ryan’s last hunt due to serious back issues, which kept him sidelined for several years. Now back on his feet, Ryan had emailed Buzz a month or so before my hunt asking if he could tag-along on an elephant hunt, offering to film and help out where he could (besides fixing broken generators and buggered up recovery tractors, he cooks a mean braai!). It was a pretty amazing coincidence that I happened to be the hunter, and we were able to pick up pretty much where we left off 5 years ago, having much to talk about. Ryan is great company, and an overall good guy to have around. Having captured the elephant kill shot on camera, he is no slouch when it comes to filing either. As was I, Ryan was pleased to have lost a few pounds/inches on the hunt, which given the fact that his wife was running the Two Oceans Marathon in Cape Town during our tip, cannot be considered a bad thing! Evening Bush Braai If this was not enough action for one day, after a wonderful bush braai, we setup the electronic caller and attempted to call in a hyena. Basically, the system consists of an old iPod that I had given to Buzz years ago when such things were considered luxury items in Zim, an amp and two large speakers. Justin, CMS’s primary cameraman and technical wizard, recorded some hyena “whooping” with a lion calling thrown in for good measure. The recording is played over and over again, until you are able to whoop along with it, or shoot a hyena, whichever comes first. Buzz stops the whooping, the spotlight is turned on, and the hunter shoots the hyena. This has worked well for a number of guys on the forum. We didn’t see any hyena, but it was a wonderful excuse to be out after dark, under the beautiful African sky, listening to the hyena...even if they were digitally recorded. HUNTING DAY #12 - SATURDAY We were a bit more serious in our buffalo hunting today. We were out of camp at first light to scout the area around the fallen baobab for fresh sign. The buffalo had crossed the road during the night, and it was game on! We followed the buffalo in figure eights as they wound their way through the tall grass. After several hours, we were about back to where we had started. It was pretty humorous…the great elephant hunters led in circles by the crafty old buffalo. Tree Rubbed by Buffalo Cryton had a bit of a sour stomach from…can you guess…too much elephant meat the night before. As did Howard, who told me “I have not had nyami for a long time and I ate too much”. Nyathi put his game face on and took over, eventually locating where the buffalo had left the tall grass. This allowed me to get some insight into the “Night of the Buffalo”. They went from one mud hole to the next, walking parallel to the mopane forest, where if one looked hard enough, around every bend one could see buffalo peering out from the darkness. The mud on the bush was fresh, and for good luck I made a mud ball and placed it in my pocket. The group would stop and feed and mull about, leaving in their wake some of the most impressive dung that I have ever seen. The one bull must have been a tank. At each water hole, we expected to see the coal black silhouettes of buffalo, standing and resting under a shade tree. Instead, just more elephant tracks. They obviously had other plans and kept walking with the wind to their backs, and by mid-day we abandoned the quest. Driving back to camp we stopped to talk to the Game Scouts on patrol, to get a handle on what areas they have been canvassing and the amount of poaching they are seeing. Since CMS has taken over Dande East, they have picked up thousands of wire snares. We encountered only a few during our trip in the ~100 miles of walking, in some of the more remote areas of the concession. Certainly a step in the right direction, and hopefully under CMS’s stewardship the plainsgame numbers can rebound. Anti-Poaching Patrol Late afternoon, hoping to catch the buffalo, we went back to the mud holes where the dagga boys had been wallowing, approaching from the other direction so as to have the wind in our faces. There was no sign of the buffalo and our footprints from the morning were the most recent tracks found. It was a great excuse for an evening walk. The temperature was just about perfect, and the pace leisurely. After dinner (including the last of Gunny’s kudu fillets!), we went to Jolly Forest in another attempt to call in hyena. I have shot several, so it was more for the sport than the trophy. I hoped that when the light was switched on, I could acquire the target quickly and get off a good shot. It seems to me to be one of those activities that it takes a few times to get the hang of. I never got the opportunity to blow the shot, as no hyena came in. There are hyena in the area, and lion, but during my stay I heard neither calling at night. HUNTING DAY #13 - SUNDAY We were one Team member down today, as Ryan was up all night with stomach issues and fever. He blamed the corn bread. We did a repeat of yesterday, picking up tracks before the fallen baobab this time. There were two bulls, one of which was the tank, that apparently broke from the rest of the group. We followed for about 3hrs walking with the wind at our backs. I am convinced that these buffalo are more concerned with who is following them, then what is lying in wait ahead. We bumped the group several times, never actually spotting them but seeing the prints where they were standing, watching, and then running. They would run for a while, then slow, and eventually begin walking until they would stop and the cycle would repeat itself. Always with the wind in the favor, which was blowing stronger now, we had no choice but to call it quits. Buffalo 3, hunters 0. Good job. Good effort. It was a brisk walk back to the truck. By this time I was getting pretty good at spotting the approaching roads. See it Yet? How About Now? Waiting for the Truck – Hunt #1 Season 2012 Done & Dusted This Was Howards 2nd Dangerous Game Hunt - He Did Great! Eddie & The Cruiser! Back at camp, Al had arrived to meet up with Buzz in preparation for their next hunt, which was in Chewore. It was great to see Al, and as expected he gave me some good-natured chit about how “I” liked long and thin ivory. He did bring me chocolates...that’s Al, always thinking of others! We went for a late day ride to Al’s kudu honey hole, however, the kudu failed to get the message and were no-shows. One of Buzz’s hunters from last year and arranged to have a suitcase of medical supplies brought over with another hunter. We delivered these to the nurse at the local clinic. It was a nice way to end an excellent hunt. Delivering Donated Supplies to the Clinic DRIVE TO HARARE The last day in camp is always filled with mixed emotions. I am anxious to get going, yet reluctant to leave. Crispen cooked us a full breakfast which unfortunately went to waste. Well, actually, whatever we didn’t eat ended up back in Crispen’s kitchen, so perhaps he cooked himself a full breakfast. Hearty Breakfasts for Those with Stronger Stomach’s Than Mine! After breakfast, we had a bit of bad news. One of Buzz’s now infamous Custom Hunting Crocs were in need of repair as what little support there was had been worn away during our hunt. Buzz was going to be hunting in Chewore which is quite rocky, and he was concerned that they might not provide him with the high level of support that he was accustomed to. So yesterday he gave them to one of the camp guys who is handy with a needle and thread, and he came back with a very good solution using a bit of the elephant hide, which is pretty amazing when you consider that the Croc itself is made of essentially Styrofoam. The problem was, the elephant hide was a bit stiff, and Buzz was worried that it might give him blisters. So, the decision was made to set the shoes by the fire overnight. It didn’t work out so well. The elephant hide cooked, shriveling up and shrinking the croc to about a size US7, which is too small for even Buzz’s feet. I’m not sure how it all worked out, as he and Al were still formulating a plan when we left at 9am. Bad News – Buzz’s Custom Hunting Crocs are “Cooked” Before leaving camp, I distributed the tips and gifts to the camp staff. I have been in camps where there were 20-25 guys, which sounds great on the surface, but especially when not prepared there is no way to meet all their expectations, at least without dipping into the PH’s tip! CMS’s camps are not like this, they are right-sized to offer great service. There are others working for the company, such as the anti-patrol unit, but the company covers their costs (although I would not at all mind a $10/day or whatever surcharge, perhaps even optional, assuming it went directly to anti-poaching). Buzz provided me with a list of names and suggested amounts, which was right in line with what I had been thinking. Buzz apparently also has these guidelines posted on his website, which is a terrific idea so that one can plan accordingly, including having the correct denominations available, remember to bring plenty of $5 and $10 bills). First were the guys on the truck, followed by Crispen and Alpha, then George and the camp helpers. The gifts were above and beyond, and distributed at the same time. The New Zimbabwe IT Office! The ride back was fun, and with Ryan giving the big diesel a workout, we made very good time. Making Our Way Out of Dande in Big Red Clear Skies at the Top of the Escarpment The Single-Lane “Tarmac” Almost too good in fact as we were back in Harare by 12:30, with most of the day to kill. We stopped a mate of Ryan’s who is mentoring him in competitive benchrest shooting, I am sure most of you guys from Harare know him as he is quite active in the local shooting club. I hung out at Buzz’s house, organized my travel and checked baggage, and added to my “emergency Harare bag” (yes, it does contain a toothbrush!). Myles picked me up around 7pm and treated me to one of the best gourmet pizza’s that I can remember. I forget the name of the place, Café Something, it was trendy and quite busy. TRAVEL HOME I made sure to get up before the kids left for school in the morning. They continue to grow and mature, and as always are extremely polite and appreciative of the gifts that my children pick for them. They promised to continue to work hard in school, and gave me a letter to take home to read with my family, which needless to say, was very touching. Lucia & Kumbu (Royal & Letwin’s Children) After a healthy breakfast with Steph (they are making the best yoghurt’s in Harare again, and as always the muesli in Africa blows away the “granola” we get here in the States), I lounged in the backyard for a while. Feels like home away from home! Steph & Buzz’s Home Letwin with Buzz & Steph’s Dogs Trying to Get a Picture of this Dog is Like Trying to Take a Picture of the Wind! Myles swung by at 9:30 to take me to the local shopping center to check out the sporting goods stores. I almost bought a pair of Cortney’s, but they didn’t have my size in the style I liked. Instead I picked up a book for the way home, and some back issues of the African Hunter magazine. Myles was in need of some fishing lures and a cooler for an upcoming fishing holiday with the family to Mozambique, but at $20/lure and $330 for a Coleman Cooler, he decided to make alternate arrangements. We got to the airport in plenty of time. It took a little longer than on previous trips to clear the rifle, but as usual, Harare is a very easy airport to fly out of. All flights were on time, the ride back was long but uneventful, and I landed in Dulles with all my luggage. What more could one ask for! CLOSING THOUGHTS So, it is now roughly 3 months later, was this indeed my last elephant hunt? I believe so, at least for bull elephant. Although I did not reach my goal of a 50 pound elephant, in the end it is really the experience that matters, with the trophy simply a reminder of hours spent on foot in a far off and exciting land, outside of our comfort zone, pushing ourselves beyond the limits of what we thought we were capable of. It was an honest and successful elephant hunt, and having the opportunity to share it with good people who I am proud to call friends made it all the more special. To anyone considering a safari to Zimbabwe, be it for elephant, buffalo, lion or leopard, you simply cannot go wrong with CM Safaris. From start to finish and everything between, you will be treated not just as a client but as a friend. CMS is large enough to offer a high-quality experience in a variety of hunting locations, while being small enough to provide that personalized service that is missing in today’s hectic world. Buzz and Myles and the entire team at CMS work very hard to do everything right by their clients, and it shows. Please let me know if I can answer any questions, and I look forward to your responses and feedback. As always, thank you for allowing me to share my hunt with you. | |||
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7/11/12 UPDATE: The tusks are already Stateside – AMAZING –as it has only been 3 months, almost to the day, since the elephant was shot! CMS and their exporter Charles Ndondo are obviously on top of their game. I am working with John Meeham from Fauna & Flora in NY now to get them cleared. Interestingly, I got a call from an Inspector with the USF&W yesterday who wanted to know about the hunt, who I hunted with, how many elephant we saw, etc. Sort of like the questions the Customs Agents ask when returning from out of the country, general and non-intrusive but looking for anything suspicious. He was curious as in the shipment I had only a pair elephant tusks, but once he heard that this was my 15th trip he understood that I am not shooting or importing animals like I once did. I cannot see any reason why this is not good, and assume it is in an attempt to identify illegal activity related to perhaps CITES animals. John said it is quite common. My last shipment had a “dead rat” in the crate and it created all kinds of issues that Fauna & Flora had to work thru to get it cleared...so I was relieved that this was just an interview. If importing elephant tusks, and I would assume other CITES animals, don’t be surprised if you get a call. For those curious regarding additional costs incurred after the safari, I offer the following: - Shipping for the crate (via Delta) was $1085 COD (would have been lightly less had I wired funds to Charles but having John handle it all on one invoice is easier). My taxidermist will pick up the tusks when retrieving other client shipments, so there was no shipping or insurance within the US. - Other assorted clearing charges came to ~$600. - Mounting costs on the special pedestals that I like (wenge wood and weathered bronze) will be $1050. | |||
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I've been eagerly awaiting this report for some time now. | |||
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Thanks Bill for another great report!! I enjoyed it as always Doug | |||
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Thank you for writing all that, I enjoyed all of it and it brought back my own memories. | |||
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You always post a highly detailed report. GREAT PHOTOS!!! Looks like a spectacular experience. Beautiful ivory! Thanks for the effort!!! GOA Life Member NRA Benefactor Member Life Member Dallas Safari Club Westley Richards 450 NE 3 1/4" | |||
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This is really a great report Bill. I enjoyed every minute of it,,,,Thanks! And very good pics too...Congrats | |||
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Excellent report! Congratulations on your ele!! 30+ years experience tells me that perfection hit at .264. Others are adequate but anything before or after is wishful thinking. | |||
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Congratulations what a great elephant. Arjun | |||
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Kind of glossed over this report didn't you? Fantastic job there, nice to see all the detail. Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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Outstanding Bill! | |||
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Well done Bill, that's a beautiful elephant! Nice, long matched ivory is tough to beat! Really reminds me of a Tanzania elephant. Excellent shot as well! | |||
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Bill- Reading your excellent report made my evening. I did this hunt last March, and you brought back a flood of great memories. Thank you for taking the time to compose such a richly detailed account. Your bull is very, very nice, and righteously hunted. It sounds like the buffalo in the East still haven't stopped moving, and "Mr. Big" is still in that jesse somewhere. I suspect that your planned retirement from elephant hunting is a bit premature. | |||
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Congrats to a very nice bull and thank you for a wonderful report!!! | |||
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This made my day. Thank you so much for putting this up. | |||
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Congrats on a wonderful hunt and thanks for the wonderful report! Skip Nantz | |||
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The master does it again!!! Great report. Keep hunting so we can read the reports. I will be posting a lion hunt report soon, this gives me momentum to finish it. Thanks for the effort. | |||
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Well done as usual, my friend! Nice bull and hunted properly. But last elephant? Ha... remember, life grows grim without senseless indulgence! Time has a way of erasing the bad and amplifying the good... and there is nothing quite like hunting for bull elephant. Even buffalo take second stage and I love hunting buffalo. Add a second on the quality hunts that CMS hosts. A fine company run by exceptional gentlemen! On the plains of hesitation lie the bleached bones of ten thousand, who on the dawn of victory lay down their weary heads resting, and there resting, died. If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue, Or walk with Kings - nor lose the common touch... Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it, And - which is more - you'll be a Man, my son! - Rudyard Kipling Life grows grim without senseless indulgence. | |||
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As aways Bill- superb report, hunt and photos. Thanks for the effort. I know a lot of time went into this. Good Hunting, Tim Herald Worldwide Trophy Adventures tim@trophyadventures.com | |||
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Great report (as usual) Bill. Thanks so much for sharing!! Deo Vindice, Don Sons of Confederate Veterans Black Horse Camp #780 | |||
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Congrats Bill. I like Marty's comment, righteously hunted, that pretty much captures it. Lucia never seems to age, Kumbo is quickly catching up to her. Thanks for the report. I look forward to exploring Bill's pan in March. Mike | |||
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It is great fun to read this on a Saturday morning. Thanks for the effort you go through to provide these detailed and interesting reports. ALLEN W. JOHNSON - DRSS Into my heart on air that kills From yon far country blows: What are those blue remembered hills, What spires, what farms are those? That is the land of lost content, I see it shining plain, The happy highways where I went And cannot come again. A. E. Housman | |||
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Top report! Definitely a 5 star! Regards, Robert ****************************** H4350! It stays crunchy in milk longer! | |||
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Bill - I'll be back later. I need to go to the store, pick-up a 6 pack, and sit down for a full afternoon read. The bull looks great, now I'll read the rest - congrats!!!! | |||
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Great hunt and report Bill. You are welcome for the Kudu steaks. Every hunt is different and it seems you made the best of this one. Thanks again for all the information you offered Jane and I prior to our trip this year. | |||
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Bill, Long beuatiful ivory regardless of weight and of course a super detailed report. Mark MARK H. YOUNG MARK'S EXCLUSIVE ADVENTURES 7094 Oakleigh Dr. Las Vegas, NV 89110 Office 702-848-1693 Cell, Whats App, Signal 307-250-1156 PREFERRED E-mail markttc@msn.com Website: myexclusiveadventures.com Skype: markhyhunter Check us out on https://www.facebook.com/pages...ures/627027353990716 | |||
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Another great hunt and great report - well done Bill. | |||
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Great report. Loved the read. | |||
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Successfully fantastic safari Bill, and properly hunted as in your previous quests. Enjoyed the photos and write up tremendously. Thanks for sharing!!! John "How do we inspire ourselves to greatness when nothing less will do" -- Invictus | |||
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Congrats on a fine bull, Bill. Thank you for a great report; I enjoyed reading it very much and the pics brought back memories from last year. That place looks very different in July! Antlers Double Rifle Shooters Society Heym 450/400 3" | |||
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Bill I can't take any credit for the new fashion of announcing the menu before diner. It was something that Buzz and I experienced when we hunted out of the Chenjie camp in Chewore South. The camp manager was a lovely lady called Dullas and she rehearsed the waiters each day so that they would march in and stand to attention before dinner and formally announce the menu. There was however one evening when one of them who didn't have perfect English caused her some embarrassment. Instead of describing the main course of "Venison Cobbla" as rehearsed, he loudly and confidently proclaimed it to be "Venimous Cobra". - much to our amusement . | |||
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Looks like you had a great time. Great hunt report. Congratulations | |||
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Another great hunt and wonderfully detailed report. I always learn something. Thank you. ___________________________________________________________________________________ Give me the simple life; an AK-47, a good guard dog and a nymphomaniac who owns a liquor store. | |||
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Bill, Don't give up on that 50 pounder. A fifty in Zim is like a 70 in Botswana. | |||
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Great report and thanks for sharing all the pics. Congrats on a great bull. | |||
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Beautiful Bull...Bill Nice long ivory,and great report!! Thanks | |||
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As usual, A Great hunt, report, and pics Bill. I am a bit concerned about Buzz,s custom crocs. I guess he will show up at DSC barefooted in January. | |||
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Jay, Not if there is a WalMart close and Myles has any money! On the plains of hesitation lie the bleached bones of ten thousand, who on the dawn of victory lay down their weary heads resting, and there resting, died. If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue, Or walk with Kings - nor lose the common touch... Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it, And - which is more - you'll be a Man, my son! - Rudyard Kipling Life grows grim without senseless indulgence. | |||
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Love those long tusks. Congrats. | |||
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