HUNT SUMMARY

DATE OF HUNT
November 14-27, 2011

LOCATION
Dande North, Zimbabwe (Ward 1 & Ward 2)

GAME HUNTED
Cape Buffalo & Tuskless Elephant

PROFESSIONAL HUNTER
Alan Shearing

OUTFITTER / BOOKING AGENT
Charlton McCallum Safaris (CMS)
Email: admin1@cmsafaris.com
Website: www.cmsafaris.com

TRAVEL AGENT
Steve Turner & Susan Hill; Travel with Guns
Email: steve@travelwithguns.com
Website: www.travelwithguns.com

TRAVEL SUMMARY
Airlines: South African Airlines
Itinerary: Dulles (Wash DC) to Johannesburg to Harare

KEY EQUIPMENT SUMMARY
Heavy Rifle: Ruger Mark II .458 Lott
Ammunition: Hand-loaded .450gr Barnes Flat Point & .500gr Woodleigh Solids + Northfork .450gr Softpoints
Boots: Lowa Zephyr GTX
Socks: Smartwool Light Hikers
Shorts: Columbia Sportswear Cascade Creek Water Shorts
Shirts: Under Armor Tactical & HeatGear Shirtsleeve T’s
Compact Camera: Olympus Stylus Tough 6000
Electrolyte Replacement/Hydration: Nuun Tablets (from REI)
Satellite Phone: Iridium 9555 (rented from Outfitter Satellite; Christopher.Balles@outfittersatellite.com)

TRIP BACKGROUND
This was my 7th trip to Zimbabwe, and 5th trip with Buzz, the first one back in 2004. All my trips to Zim have been exceptional, and I have enjoyed hunting all over the country including twice in the Zambezi Valley (Chewore North and Sapi), but never Dande. This is an area where Ian Nyschens spent a lot of time, especially in the hot, dry and stressful summer months (known as Chirimo in the Shona language) when all animals including man wait in anticipation of the seasonal rains, as detailed in his wonderful book Months of the Sun. This was the inspiration for my trip, to experience the Valley in its most extreme state, and hopefully be there when the early rains started and witness firsthand the transformation of the bush. CMS had no quota left for their Dande hunting areas (Dande Safari Area, Ward 11 & Dande East), but was able to work out a deal with Gavin Rorke for their remaining quota in Ward 1 and Ward 2, which was two buffalo and one tuskless elephant.

You can purchase Months of the Sun from Safari Press.

Considered a “clean-up hunt”, the day rates were pretty consistent with normal in-season day rates, but I had more quota available with the trophy fees for the buffalo and tuskless slightly exaggerated to account for the fact that I would be hunting for 10-days and not the normal minimum days required for each animal. It was a perfect arrangement for me at this point in my African hunting career, a fair day rate but no pressure to shoot anything. Being the last hunter for the season, Gavin pretty much had already written these trophy fees off so anything we shot would be a bonus. All this meant that I was free to be selective on the animals that were shot and in the manner in which they were hunted, and just focus on the experience of the hunt. I would not necessarily suggest that a first-timer book a hunt such as this, as at the end of the season the animals are stressed and spooky and the conditions a bit of a challenge, but for somebody who is looking for something different and with the right mindset and expectations going in, a clean-up hunt can be a good deal.

The hunt came together rather quickly, and Myles did a great job coordinating everything on short notice. Buzz and Steph had arrangements for a holiday to South Africa following his last hunt of the season, but Alan Shearing would be in Dande hunting with a fellow AR member, and logistically it would work out perfectly to meet up with Al after that hunt was finished. I spent some time in camp with Al several years ago, and although we didn’t really get to know one another, Al has a great reputation and I felt that we would match up well (which we did).

What follows is from my journal. I didn’t take as many pictures on this trip as on previous, partly because I brought only a ruggedized pocket camera with limited zoom, and I think due to the fact that it was just me on this trip and once hunting Al and I were pretty focused on the task at hand especially as the hunt days ticked by. I avoided taking pictures of large groups of people and anything related to the government/police. Times are changing, and taking pictures of local people “without their permission” seems to be frowned upon especially in the towns.


TRAVEL TO ZIMBABWE
As most of you know from previous reports, I often am accompanied by one of my sons which makes travel a bit less stressful and maybe even a little bit fun. However, it is becoming more difficult as they grow to find the time. Bill Jr. has graduated college and is now working as a Mechanical Engineer, and Brett is still in college and working internships at the hospital during the summers, and has one more year of college before entering his medical program at PSU-Hershey. Brett and I did manage to squeeze in 5-days of black bear hunting in British Columbia this past May, he shot a nice old boar, and I enjoyed every minute of the trip.

Brett’s Spring Black Bear from British Columbia


A big shout-out to Steve and Susan from Travel with Guns! Fast and responsive service, friendly, organized and a pleasure to work with.

For this safari, I was able to fly from Dulles (Washington DC) to Johannesburg and connect to Harare without having to change airlines or overnight in South Africa, thus saving a day of travel and avoiding the cumbersome SAPS procedures. The caveat was that the layover would be just under 2-hours, which can be cutting it close. I emailed with Annelise Bekker from the Afton House ahead of time just in case I got stranded, but despite a delay in takeoff and an extra hour on the ground in Dakar due to slow processing of incoming passengers, the pilots made up time in the air and we arrived on time. Perhaps because as it was late in the season the lines in Johannesburg were very modest and I zipped thru the Transit Desk with plenty of time to spare. One thing I noticed on this trip, or perhaps it was just my perspective, but everybody that I came in contact with was friendly and engaging. In particular I observed this on the short flight from Johannesburg to Harare. It was an amazingly diverse group of people, and everybody was smiling and cordial and easy to chat with. I spoke to one young man who was doing some enhancements at the US Embassy, and as it turned out he grew up in a small town not 20 miles from my hometown in PA. Again, maybe later in the season things are more relaxed, but whatever it was, the trip was off to a good start. My luggage even arrived with me!

Myles was there to greet me and we zipped off to Buzz’s house where I was greeted by Royal, Letwin and their children Lucia (13) and Kumbu (10). I first met Royal in 2004 when he was still in the field and driving for Buzz. I’ve watched the kids grow over the years, and a trip to Zimbabwe is just not the same without a short visit with the kids. Buzz was kind enough to allow me to crash at his Villa for the night, where along with his new dog Tonga (which in Shona means "Chief") I had the run of the place. Letwin whipped up some eggs, and sleep came easy thanks to an Ambien. I cannot stress enough how important it is to try to get on African time as soon as possible, starting with the plane ride. The time difference was a somewhat significant +7 hours, and getting a decent night sleep and not napping the next day goes a long way in getting your body clock reset.

Letwin



TRAVEL TO THE VALLEY - MONDAY
The next morning I was up at 4am and in plenty of time to see the kids off before they left for school at 5:30 (things do get moving early in Zim!). Lucia wants to be a pharmacist, and Kumbu an engineer. They have a long way to go, but it fills me with hope that Zimbabwe now offers these dreams and opportunities, albeit to a select few.

Lucia & Kumbu




Myles arrived bright and early for the ride "down" to the Valley (Harare is actually at an elevation of almost 5000 feet above sea level). Thinking back to my trips years ago during the dark-days in Zimbabwe, driving thru Harare I am amazed at the hustle and bustle. Cars (including very nice second-hand Mercedes) and people everywhere, stores open with plenty of stock, new construction and business opening....and if you can believe it all the traffic lights (aka "robots") were working. Pretty amazing as only a few short years ago we literally were the only vehicle on the road. The impact of Dollarization on the country is impressive, goods are more expensive but they are available, and everybody seems to have "a plan". I should point out that as with my previous trips to Zim, at no point did I ever feel threatened or in danger in any way, be it in the city or the bush. It is absolutely true that the vast majority of Zim residents are peace-loving.

On the way out of town we stopped at a farm to pick up some fresh vegetables and fruit. The place was a bee hive of activity as produce was being brought into the main facility for distribution. I spoke to the manager who said that he used to be an engineer at a manufacturer in town, but now he runs the farm. He said the limitation is the spotty electricity, and without it they cannot irrigate and can quickly lose their crops. They grow what they can take care of, including a lot of hardy potatoes and cabbage which is favored by the locals. Myles and I decided that the pre-order was not quite enough for 12-days, and took the liberty of adding some fresh veggies for which I was appreciate of in the days that followed.

Farm Outside of Harare




I enjoy driving, it is a great way to get to know an area and the hours passed quickly taking in the sights and chatting with Myles about business, family, and the latest gossip. The heat, while not bad in town where it was quite comfortable actually, was becoming intense. The bush was also getting dryer the closer we got to the Valley. Harare had some rains and everything had greened up, but the landscape in the north was brown and rather desolate looking, although the trees were trying hard to add a splash of green. Months of the Sun, here I come.

As we climbed the Escarpment my anxiousness increased. The Zambezi Valley is a magical place, changing rapidly as the world shrinks, but still wild and harsh and real.

View of the Valley Floor from the Escarpment


Myles and I stopped at CMS’s main camp, Pedza, where we met a fellow AR member who was completing his hunt and would be driving out with Myles the next day. Alan was also in camp and suggested that before continuing on with our journey that a cold shower would cool me down. I told him I was good, which earned me my first sideways look. So I took a shower, and he was right. It took another ~1.5hrs to reach the fishing camp…and the mighty Zambezi River.

Eddie was first to greet me, and was anxious to tell me about his new baby girl, Nokutenda. The camp is very homey and comfortable, and it didn’t take long to settle in. Wonderfully located and next to the Mozambique boarder, one can stand in one country and see two others. Across the river the Zambians were buzzing with activity. Given the convergence of the Luangwa and Zambezi Rivers and easy access to other countries for trade, there have always been settlements here, and Ian’s book mentions this area many times. While the chatter of people is not the sound of the bush as we may imagine, it is a sound of Africa, and when all was quiet at night I actually felt as though something was missing. A few miles west up the river lies Chewore North, and truly wild country.

Fishing Camp at Dusk


After a bite to eat, Myles and I scrambled to the boat to head up the river for some tiger (Hydrocyanus vittatus) fishing. First we need to catch bait, which is primarily chessa, the small fish that feed on hippo dung. Just downstream of a hippo pod is of course the best place to find them, and the closer the better! I’ve always had great respect for hippo, but after my encounter with a charging dry land hippo in 2010, I tend to give them a little more space. This was not consistent with Myles's plan, however, and we anchored the boat in some reads right around the corner from a very active and noisy pod of hippo!

We (Myles) caught a few chessa which we (Myles) chunked and drifted behind the boat as we floated downstream. I didn’t bring my fishing game with me on this trip, as I caught very few fish, but I did indeed “fish”. And honestly I was more captivated by the sites and sounds of the river, especially that first sunset. My God what a beautiful sight.

Myles enjoying some time away from town






We returned to camp just before nightfall. The cook prepared us a wonderful roasted chicken, and by 8pm we were ready to retire for the night. I recall thinking, “Did all of that happen in one day!?!?” It is amazing how much you can jam into a day if you keep moving.


FISHING DAY - TUESDAY
I woke at 4am, so far so good with the sleeping schedule. I listened to the river come alive as fisherman set out in their dugouts and small metal boats.

Dawn on the River


As soon as there was hot water I made a sturdy cup of Nescafe Instant and positioned a chair by the river to watch the show. After breakfast Eddie and I set out on our Great Adventure. An entire day on the river, I couldn’t wait to get started.

Purchasing my Fishing License


Red Cliffs which separates Dande North from Chewore North


Scenes from the Lower Zambezi


Before coming to work for CMS, Eddie guided fishing clients on the river. He is from a local village, and knows the river and the people well. We talked for hours, and it is neat to hear his perspective on all things African including the cultures and beliefs of the local people.

Eddie


Around noon we headed back to camp for some lunch. We needed gas for the boat, and Eddie asked if I wanted to rest or go with him across the river to Zambia. "Let me get my shoes!" The first stop was Zimbabwe “Immigration” to locate the agent. This is a good time to mention that when Africa, it is essential to leave your impatience and sense of urgency behind. Things take time, it is all part of the culture and experience. As the saying goes, “we wear the watch but the locals have the time”. Once located my name was recorded on a piece of paper (“Mr. Bill”) along with the others. This was what we needed to enter Zambia, I wish I would have gotten a picture. Once across the river we hit a bit of a snag as the Zambian Immigration office was closed for lunch and it would be a few hours before they returned. We made a plan to leave one of the guys behind with $40 and a gas can, and he would wait and eventually find a way back across the river. No worries regarding hydration as next to the Immigration office was a bar.

We went back out on the river and fished until dusk. The winds picked up blowing west from Mozambique, which made drifting difficult. Eddie and I each had a couple of hits but in general the fish were not that aggressive. On the way back Eddie stopped to ask the local fisherman along the river how they were making out, and all said they had not caught anything, which somehow was always funny. The locals use an interesting technique to attract the tiger fish to their bait, which involves periodically beating the surface of the water with the end of their wooden stick. When a tiger bites, there is no reel and only a few feet of line, so they simply yank the fish out of the water and over the shoulder onto the bank. Al and Japie (CMS’s Area Manager) were at camp when we got back. Dinner was sable from a previous hunt, amazingly tender and moist.


FISHING DAY - WEDNESDAY
Al, Japie and I spent the morning fishing, starting upriver past the Red Cliffs, thru the Gate, and into Mpata Gorge. While the fishing was generally slow, we did get the most action around the hippo pods which were spaced nicely along the river. With the bait fish cleaning our hooks properly, we made a stop at a beautiful fishing camp owned by the Meredith’s to beg for some worms.

Al Chillin in the Shade


Around noon the sun was getting intense, so we found a nice little inlet and enjoyed our pack lunch and tried our hand at catching some bream. The wind was still complicating things, so after lunch we decided to return to camp, pack up, and make the move to what would be our hunting camp at Pedza. I said my goodbyes to the camp staff and gave them their tip for two days of excellent service.

Meredith’s Fishing Camp




Fishing Camp Staff


We arrived at Pedza late afternoon and settled in. Dinner was fish and chips. Japie told me that the fish, which we had once again later in the hunt, is bream (aka tilapia) farm-raised in large netted areas in Lake Kariba. It is actually not the bream native to Zimbabwe, but was introduced for farming as it grows quicker and larger than the native fish. Of course, the introduced fish escaped the enclosures and are now breeding with the native variants, which is not seen as a terrible thing as the hybrid provides more food and protein for a hungry country.

Pedza Camp




Dining Area





SCOUTING DAY - THURSDAY
Thus began a schedule that would persist for the next 10-days. Up at 4am, usually just in time to hear the shuffle of footsteps prior to the gentle “Good Morning Sir”; a hearty breakfast of oats or porridge (which is creamed sadza, made from white maize/corn meal) with muesli, fresh yogurt and of course Nescafe Instant; on the road by 5am. CMS’s Pedza camp is well located in proximity of their three hunting areas (DSA, Ward 11 & Dande East), However, we were not hunting in CMS's areas but in Ward 1 and Ward 2 which for the most part involved some serious driving, anything from 1-2 hours in the mornings to get to the area with the most activity.

The first order of business was to check the zero of Buzz’s Blaser .375 rifle, which I would be using during the hunt as my “light gun”. The plan was to use the .458 Lott with open sights as possible for the buffalo, but if due to conditions and/or lack of cover we could not get to within 50-yards of so, I’d use the .375 which is topped with a nice 2.5-8x Leupold scope. The rifle shot great, and thanks to a “gel pad” installed it was a pussycat to shoot. One shot and we were ready.

The Dande Wards are “communal areas” meaning that there are villagers living in the hunting concession. While I love unspoiled wilderness, for me the interaction with the local people is a nice diversion from the hunting, and driving. In one of the village centers I had an interesting and foretelling experience. I thought it would be neat to discretely take a picture of a little market area being setup, so that I could show my daughter how the villagers shop (a favorite activity of hers!). What I didn’t know is that while I was taking a picture of them – they were taking a picture of me! I found this very humorous, as the concept of a local with a camera phone taking pictures of some burley American “shopping at his store” just caught me off guard.

Local Flee Market

Shop Keeper taking a picture of me taking a picture of him!


There are several cell phone towers in the area that have not been brought online yet, apparently constructed by a Chinese company who is awaiting payment from the Zimbabwe-based cellular provider. For now the local have SIMM cards that allow them to use the towers in Zambia. Welcome to the new Zimbabwe!

During our day on the water, Eddie proudly announced “Mr. Bill, I am now a businessman too”. The entrepreneurial spirit had bitten Eddie, and thanks in a large part to guidance and coaching from Buzz and Japie, Eddie is involved in two business ventures. The first investment was in a banana boat, which he stores at the Police Station along the Zambezi. This is used to export beer from South Africa across the river into Zambia. Eddie bought the boat to be Muwahse’s, his oldest son, one day.

The second is a General Shop that he is busily getting ready to open in the Kanyemba area, in the bush equivalent of a strip mall in a village known as Majaya. The shop will be run by his wife Enaza, and sell general merchandise to the local people. Eddie’s competition will be stiff, as there is already a general dealer…right next to Eddie’s shop. However, Eddie has a plan to differentiate himself, as being on the end of the row of buildings, he is going to open an outside Eatery serving Sadza and Stew. His hopes are that the hungry locals will become frequent customers, including those that spent time in the corner bar, as well as truckers and others moving goods north to the River.

It’s a neat setup, whereby he pays the district Council a certain amount each year for the privilege, but whatever he makes he can keep. His wife is already baking buns (bread) on a daily basis and selling them for 10-cents each. When I asked him about his pricing structure, he said that this is all the locals can afford. He is happy as they buy flour in Zambia for $50 a bag, and are able to sell $100 worth of buns. If anybody is looking for investment opportunities, let me know and I’ll hook you up!

Eddie and his wife Enaza in front of their new General Shop in Kanyemba


Al and I joked during the hunt frequently that there is some ingrained tendency for hunters to feel that the furthest point from where we started has to be the best area, sort of the grass-is-greener concept. Throw in a boundary and all the better, which I think is due in part to the fact that there are typically dirt tracks separating the various areas, where game movement can be found. Naturally at day’s end we typically found ourselves as far away from camp as possible, whether it be north near the Zambezi, or west along the Chewore boundary. This meant for some long days, but it was nothing that was not discussed upfront with Myles nor unexpected, and hey I was on African time. Al averaged about 70km (44 miles) a day driving to/from the areas that we wanted to hunt, and driving the dirt tracks looking for fresh buffalo and elephant spoor.

In the spirit of the old explorers, day-1 was to be dedicated to scouting the areas closest to camp, getting to know the roads better and trying to locate where the game was most active. Our first mission was to hunt for the Council gamescout. This was the last hunt of the season for everybody, and the look on the gamescout’s face when we finally found him said it all!

Gamescout’s Village


Assembling the Team


The rains were due any day (last year they began on the 20th), and it was obvious that the land and people were eagerly awaiting the first renewing drops of water. Some of the areas and in particular in the north had been burned too late in the season, likely by careless villagers or visitors. Given the lack of cover and food there was little or no sign and what we found was just passing thru. We scratched these areas off the list.

Bush Church




Glassing from Cliff Road


As we were just south of camp, and the heat in the sun hovering around 45-degrees Celsius (110 Fahrenheit), we ate our pack lunch at Pedza and took a 30 minute power nap. In the afternoon we stretched the legs a bit and took a walk into a couple of springs that the guys wanted to check out. The ground was covered with old spoor and sign, but nothing current. The Zambezi Valley has never been known for high concentrations of plainsgame, and looking at the current conditions and lack of food it was not hard to see why, but we did see zebra, warthog, duiker, grysbok, ground hornbills and one big tuskless (on the wrong side of the road!). Dinner was pork, hash browns and fresh carrots and broccoli. Desserts were always top notch and interesting, and the portions ideal. Although I am not a big drinker, Pedza has a nice bar area and a lovely open pit fireplace where one can enjoy sundowners.


FRIDAY 11/19
After breakfast I was able to call home via the Iridium satellite phone, and talk to my family. It worked out well, as 4am for me was 9pm at home. Unlike previous years, when I had a satellite, the call clarity was good with none of the funky acoustics or delays which makes conversation difficult. I am not sure if this is a result of the newer phone (model 9555), but the connection quality was similar to a Thuraya I had rented years ago in Tanzania. The challenge if getting signal, and the low-flying Iridium satellites tend to come and leave range every 10 minutes or so. Still, it was great being able to touch base with my family every second day or so, just to hear that everything was going ok and to let them know that I was safe and sound.

We headed west, hunting the Ward 11 area in/around the “5 Ways”, which is the name implies is where 5 dirt tracks intersect. Clearly the heat was limiting game movement, however, having both tuskless elephant and buffalo on quota meant that we could follow fresh tracks of either. As far as “dangerous game” hunting goes, this just might be the ideal combination. It wasn’t until 10am when we found the first fresh buffalo spoor, but thankfully some cloud cover had moved in which kept the temperatures at bay.



Fresh Buffalo Spoor




We mounted up and began tracking what we thought was a fairly small sized herd. Although ideally we were after dagga boy’s and looking to avoid the herds which have been harassed all season by lions and hunters, often the older bulls join up with the herds for mating until they can't take any more action and go off on their own again. We tracked the herd a mile or two and came upon them below us in a small green valley. It was a great setup as we could glass down, and the wind steady and favorable. As is common when hunting the herds, the cows are ever vigilant and before long one sensed something and stared us down for what felt like 20 minutes. Of course Al and I were in mid-stride, and I earned a frown from Al, who had stepped on the very same crunchies that I did but I happened to be the last one to step on them as he froze first. I find it quite humorous, and long ago I came to terms with the fact that I am more of a go-thru versus glide-over sort of guy, which is why elephant hunting is so appealing as they are quite forgiving. My Lowa’s are pretty quiet, and light footsteps using the outer part of your boots while absorbing movement at the knees does minimize the sound, but during the late season there is no avoiding making some noise. While this might get the attention of the buff or ele, you are not in big trouble until they smell you. Patience is the name of the game when hunting buffalo.

Eventually the cow spooked, which resulted in the bush erupting with black bodies and grunting buffalo. Clearly there was more buffalo here than we thought! The buffalo had not winded us and they only went a few yards, but it was enough to allow Al to glass the back of the herd where typically the older bulls hang out. There was some mature bulls, but nothing that met my requirement. Having shot “trophy buffalo” before, I was looking first and foremost for an old buffalo. Al and I spoke beforehand, and I made it clear that as I would not be exporting/mounting the buffalo, it was my desire to not shoot somebody else’s “buffalo of a lifetime”. My goal was old bulls with hard bosses in that 32-36 inch range, buffalo that may have been passed up on previous hunts for “lack of size”. This being said, if we encountered an old monster buffalo or a scrum cap (bull with worn/broken tips that wears essentially a helmet), I reserved the right to reconsider and take him home with me.

Al and I moved along the top the ridge to get in front of the herd. There was one large-bodied bull in the front who displayed quite an attitude, raking small trees and chasing cows who got in his way. Calmly walking now, we were able to drop down to the floor and position ourselves behind some bush awaiting them to pass. Several cows arrived concurrently with the old bull, who was on the far side. They saw us and stopped, but the wind was good. At around 75 yards it was a long shot for me with open sights, and initially the bull was presenting a mostly head-on angle. Al asked if I could shoot and I told him no that I didn’t have a shot. The bull, trying to sort out what we were, took a few steps forward and stamped his hoof, which gave me a quartering-to shot. Al asked again, and with as much careful aim as the I could muster with the big NECG front bead, I let a 450gr Northfork softpoint fly. At the shot the herd split, with about half the ~75 animals running past us to our right. The bull was hit hard, and I was able to put a second round into him once the dust settled. He walked to about 125 yards and turned sideways looking back in our general direction, allowing me to put a few more into him. The first bullet had clipped the bottom of his jaw before entering high in his chest taking out one lung. It was likely a fatal shot, but we may have had some walking and who knows what......with buffalo I prefer to keep shooting until its lights out. The Northfork which was recovered mushroomed perfectly and drove straight and true.

A Fine Old Warrior




Left to Right: Bernard, Martin, Washington, Eddie, Maplan


The guys found the nearest road and cut a path in. Al does not have a winch on his truck, so to load the buffalo whole the technique was to dig ditches for each rear wheel thereby lowering the truck making it easier to load the carcass using a combination of manpower and a manual winch.



We unloaded the bull at the skinning shed and Japie made arrangements with Gavin’s crew to pick up and distribute the meat. As a communal area, the local people benefit economically via concession costs, but also receive direct benefit from the trophy fees and the meat by rewarding those closest to where the animal was shot. The objective is to reward the people for practicing sound conservation including not poaching, controlling village sprawl, and not over-burning. Nothing is simple in Africa, and poaching is an increasing problem all across the continent where game remains. Dinner was local fare and one of my favorites, stew meat, sadza, gravy and cabbage.


SATURDAY 11/20
It was a warm night with temperatures between 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit in the cabin. Sleep was also made difficult due to my injured hip, which tended to wake me up frequently. It is often written where Africa is not a difficult hunt, and this can certainly be so depending on how one chooses to hunt. While there is a lot of driving, once tracks are found one can walk anywhere from a few minutes to many hours. It is dangerous to generalize, but walking in MOST areas is not terribly difficult. What makes a hunt to Africa difficult is the number of factors that together challenge ones dedication. Jet lag and disrupted sleep patterns, long days afield, dull hours bouncing around in the truck, the sun/heat, bugs, new foods and potential stomach distress, antimalarial meds, blisters, etc all conspire to increase the realized difficulty. I’ve been fortunate to have hunted Africa more than a few times, and I have developed a systematic approach with daily routines that helps mitigate many of these factors. This combined with year-round cardio training and weight lifting works out well, and historically I have been able to cover quite a bit of ground during the course of a 10-14 day hunt, and as far as I know my physical ability (or lack thereof) was never a limiting factor in our success. However, one can only do so much when it comes to age and injuries.

In previous reports I made reference to a “gimpy leg”, which has been bothering me for years. Earlier this year I finally went to the Doc and had it checked out. Without getting into detail, due to an old injury or just the way I was configured, I have no cartilage in my right hip with considerable reshaping of the femoral head and bone deposits surrounding the injured area. Bone on bone. Eventually I will need some new parts and hip replacements are said to be among the most successful orthopedic procedures as the joint is relatively simple, especially if one is fit. However nothing is guaranteed and at 47 and active with lots ahead of me, the longer I can make do the better, as a replacement can wear out. Knowing now what the issue was, I was able to openly talk to Buzz and then Al ahead of time to let them know that I would give it my all, however, my leg may become the limiting factor in our hunt - BUT that this was okay. I stressed that this was a no-pressure hunt, focusing on the experience, and just being in the bush following spoor with my rifle in hand was all that I was after. Anything that we shot was just icing on the cake. The end result was that I truly enjoyed and appreciated every minute of the trip, including even the discomfort when present when walking as it reminded me that I can still do what I love, and that we should never take things for granted. So in my opinion “difficulty” is relative, and what was easy yesterday could be a real ball-buster tomorrow. All we can do is prepare to the best of our abilities within the boundaries of whatever constraints we face, and when the time comes, put all of our heart and soul into whatever we do. NEVER GIVE IN AND NEVER GIVE UP!

Al commented that he had been doing a lot of leopard hunts, and really hoped we could do some walking. So did I. The first buffalo came relatively easy, but now we would focus only on bachelor groups (dagga boys) and elephant herds which were not moving much and when they did during the night were covering some distance, while being selective in what we shot. And it was hot with temps in the sand reading over 125 degrees when the mercury ran out…and not much cooler 5 feet above ground level. But we had plenty of time, and no pressure.

Before first light we headed north towards the river driving parallel to the Mozambique boarder along the Center Road. There were quite a few elephant tracks heading east towards Mozambique, but nothing ultra-fresh. The guys spotted some buffalo spoor crossing the dirt track, it looked like four bulls two of which appeared to be quite big-bodied given the size of the track and the depth of the imprint relative to the others. This was what we were after, dagga boys. I chugged a bottle of water and filled my Hammerhead backpack with four waters which was in addition to the pack that the trackers would otherwise fill and carry. Tracking was easy in the soft dirt, however, the mopane scrub did not offer much cover and my concern was being able to see the buffalo before they saw us. Those who have been to Dande North recently will know this area. It had been cleared some years ago by a government official with the intent of planting cotton. The cotton farm never materialized, and what resulted is a huge track of land all growing back at the same rate. It is comforting to know that nature can eventually reclaim that which man destroys.

The guys did a great job tracking, and we found where the bulls had stopped lay down and rest during the night. They were moving into the wind and feeding periodically which was a good sign. However, they were beginning to weave with the wind periodically at their backs. This was not good, and probably meant that they were wily old bulls getting ready to ride out the heat of the day, being careful to select a shady where they would not be jumped. I have tracked bulls like this before, and once resting they typically all face in different directions and do a marvelous job of locating movement. Our group slowed and went on high alert each time we approached a thicket of green bush and shade trees, all looking like the perfect area for buffalo to bed down in.

What can happen is that after a few false alarms, it is easy to become nonchalant and this is typically when you bumble into them. I tried to remind myself of this, and stay alert. Despite our best efforts, the inevitable happened, they winded us. We saw them running from about 100 yards away, and it was the strangest thing. All six ran with their heads low to the ground stealthed by the brown grass, seemingly trying to not allow us to see their headgear. I don’t know if it was coincidence, or being late in the season the ones that kept a low profile were the ones that were left, or if they had learned to be discreet…but it is these subtle yet unusual occurrences that keep things interesting. We talked over the options and the odds of them stopping any time soon were slim. Al radioed Eddie to meet us further down the dirt track. It was the right call as we would see their tracks a few days later crossing the Center Road a few kilometers to the north of where we initially picked them up, and indeed they were still moving fast at that time with the wind at their backs. A well-deserved victory for the buffalo.

We met Eddie and continued on towards the Zambezi, then west in the direction of the Chewore North boarder, then West to Chewore. What we found was too many people and too few animals. While the area is good earlier in the season especially when the crops are growing, there was too little food and not enough cover to hold the game.

Scenic Inlet along the Zambezi


We took a nice walk thru a block of jesse along the river that Al had hunted before with the hopes of bumping into fresh elephant sign, but the spoor indicated that elephant had not been there for several weeks. It was the perfect place to have lunch and a short nap.

Zambezi River Jesse


All the Comforts of Home!


Around 2:30 we headed back to the general area where we had seen the elephant tracks earlier in the morning but one road to the east (known as the Security Road), to see if the elephant had crossed that road too, or if they were still in the block between the roads. They had indeed crossed, but the spoor was old and they were heading towards Mozambique. This part of the concession is close to the boarder, with as little as a few hundred meters between the road and Mozambique in some areas. Al talked over the options with the guys and as we had several kilometers between us and the boarder, and no other good options for the afternoon hunt, we decided to follow their tracks and see if we could catch them resting. It was a good walk at a modest tracking speed. It seemed the closer that we got to the boarder the thicker the cover became. There were several herds now and lots of sign, both new and old. We were getting close, but the problem was so was Mozambique, and eventually we had to turn back. It was a good day in the field and the leg held up fine. Dinner was the last of the sable. Sleep came easy at around 9pm.

Al Checking his GPS – Yep, still in Zim but not by much!

SUNDAY 11/21
Another day and still no rain. I could feel the desperation in the air, as the earth and animals awaited the first early showers. It seemed that the elephant realized the rain was late, and began making plans. With this in mind, we headed back to the same area where we had tracked the elephant yesterday afternoon with the hopes that we could intercept other herds crossing into Mozambique to drink from pans and a borehole that the trackers said were not too far into the neighboring hunting concession.

During the more typical and cooler hunting season of June thru September, the diligence and effort to remain hydrated is reduced. This hunt was a Months of the Sun hunt, and staying hydrated was critical. I offer the following based on this trip and previous early season hunts (this is somewhat redundant of those reports) when it can also be hot and humid, in case it helps others in preparing for their trips. Each morning I would fill a 32oz REI Nalgene bottle with water and 2 Nuun tablets and strive to drink it before the first walk. I have found that hydrating starts the night prior and needs to continue thru the morning. Drink as much as you can starting at dinner, and limiting alcohol intake is a good idea (I don’t drink so for me this is easy). Once on foot with the sun broiling there is no getting ahead and just keeping up can be a chore. You need to go into the day fully hydrated. I learned years ago that I am responsible for my water, and as such I bring along a small backpack that either I can carry (with a hydration bladder) or fill and give to one of the guys if I am carrying my rifle. When walking, drink whenever the opportunity presents itself and don’t be afraid to halt the procession to chug a bottle. Never ever use your PH as a measuring stick as to how much you should drink. They are camels, especially later in the season. I have tried Gatorade packs in the past, but the convenience of the Nuun tablets is beyond compare. The various flavors are also not so sweet that after a few hours they become sickening. I need considerably more fluid early in the hunt, and once urine is regular and not bright yellow, I know that I am over the dehydration that can occur with flying, and getting somewhat acclimated to the new conditions. It takes me about 6-days once on the ground to get all systems into sync, and the fishing and gentle lead-up on this hunt was very beneficial in this respect and I plan to replicate this approach moving forward whenever possible.

Northface Hammerhead Backpack Carried by Bernard


Once again we picked up tracks on the Center Road which runs north to south thru the Ward 1 concession, and followed them across the Security Road and into Mozambique. Interestingly, this herd ended up crossing the road within a hundred yards of the group we had followed yesterday afternoon. Had we driven the road closer to the boarder we could have saved time, but our hopes were that we would be able to catch the elephant in the block before they made it across. We were not far behind them, but even with young in the herd they were walking with purpose and unless elephant stop to rest or feed, there is little chance of catching them. We walked from 6am until 10am, at which point it had already reached 100 degrees.

We drove through the DSA (Dande Safari Area) to CM Safari’s Marulu Camp for lunch and a rest. The Manyemu River in front of camp was dry, and Al said even the hardy shade trees were taking stress without the rain.

CM Safari’s Marulu Camp in the Dry Season






After lunch we drove to Gavin’s Ward 2 hunting area and scouted for fresh sign. There was little movement on the roads, which meant we had to take walks into areas where we hoped we would find fresh elephant or buffalo activity. These walks were mostly to known springs and deep pools in stream beds that typically held water in drought conditions. They are very enjoyable as usually the pace the modest, the scenery pleasant, and there is always the opportunity to bump into bushbuck, warthog, baboon and other critters that make it more interesting. The trackers found fresh tracks at one of the springs (picture below).

Fresh Tracks


We followed these elephant for several hours as they uncharacteristically walked with the wind to their backs most of the time. Unable to catch them before dark, we had to call off the hunt and meet up with Eddie and the truck. Being my first late season hunt, I am not sure what is typical elephant behavior at this time of the year, and I struggled to get into their heads. Usually after a few days one can begin to pattern the elephant movement and behavior. It is one of the most enjoyable aspects of the hunt for me and why I enjoy hunting elephant more than any other animal. But these elephant were proving hard to figure out. Were they being harassed by poachers, or stressed out from being hunted all season, or taking stress due to the dry conditions and lack of food? Perhaps a little of all the above.

We arrived back at camp at 7pm, which was starting to become our norm. Japie was always there to greet us and eager to hear of the day’s events. CMS’s Pedza camp is very nice and although not a “bush camp” after 14hrs in the field a cool shower, a nice campfire, a hot meal and a solid bed are most appreciated. Dinner was always three courses, and this night consisted of a buffalo strip appetizer, roasted chicken with rice and fresh vegetables, and a pleasing chocolaty desert.

Area Manager Japie & Al Enjoying a Sundowner



MONDAY 11/22
On our way out of camp this morning we were treated to a rare experience. The sun had just cleared the horizon at 5am. What sounded initially like children screaming was a pair of painted dogs (wild dogs) that had just brought down a female bushbuck. We watched from not more than 40 yards away as they tore and gulped down huge chunks of meat. Unfortunately without a zoom camera I did not try to take any pictures, but frankly sometimes in trying to take a picture I find that I miss a lot, being too focused on getting the gadget setup and then viewing the event via the viewfinder/screen instead of with my own two eyes. This was the second time that I have seen painted dogs in the wild, the previous time with Buzz and my two boys in Sapi. It was the first time that I have ever witnessed “a kill”. Nature at its most brutal. Having been at Pedza since June with only 10-days break, Japie had gotten to know the local bushbuck quite well and had become quite fond of them (hey no sheep jokes!). We reached Japie later on the radio who walked to the kill site and somehow determined that thankfully it was not one of “his bushbuck”!

Abandoning Ward 1, we focused our attention on Ward 2 which with more cover and plenty of hidden springs especially in the hills along Chewore seemed to be holding the elephant and buffalo better. Or so we hoped. Along the way we passed a group of children walking to school who were very happy to get a ride. This became a daily routine, which we all enjoyed, especially the kids some of who walk 7 kilometers each way to and from school. Al joked that the teachers probably really loved us, as not only were the kids arriving early for school but had plenty of energy for mischievousness!

The CMS School Bus




After logging some more miles, finally, fresh tracks! We mounted up and followed the small herd of elephant into some nice jesse bush. The wind was good and the elephant were calm, this was what I was accustomed to. We found them feeding in a small valley. Hiding behind a termite mound, we were able to look over the entire herd. These were the first elephant that I had seen on this hunt, and it is always moving and exciting to be in amongst them. A young bull fed to within 20 yards of us, looking straight at us several times without reaction. After confirming there were no tuskless, we left them undisturbed so they could go about enjoying their morning.

We waited about 20 minutes and sucked on Jolly Ranchers that I magically produced throughout the hunt when the gang needed a bit of a boost or as a treat after a job well done, before resuming our stroll through the jesse. We bumped into the same group of elephant, and once again managed to leave them unaware of our presence.

The baobabs took a real hit this year. There has been much written about the baobab tree and the roll they play in the lives of many of Africa’s creatures, and I won’t attempt to do this justice here. They are amazing trees, and it is somewhat sad to see a 500? year old tree in ruins. However, even in their own “death” they are important to the elephant, helping to sustain them through difficult times.

Baobab Shredded by Hungry Elephant


While taking the picture above, two bushpigs gave us a bit of a jolt, exploding from underneath the rubble where they had dug a burrow. This of course caused us to laugh and talk a bit louder and make a little more noise than we normally would even as we continued on. As happens at least once each hunt it seems, not more than 50-yards away, one of the guys heard elephant. We snuck in closer and were able to see a large one-tusked cow standing at the rear of a small group of elephant on the other side of a dry stream bed, listening and wondering who or what was making all that noise.

Al looked (or was that a glare?) back at me, I just grinned and said “bushpigs” which I used a few more times during the course of the hunt when I happened to be making more noise then he at that particular time. The elephant did not wind us, which gave us the chance to work our way counter-clockwise around them, confirming that there were no tuskless present. We left them in peace, or at least wondering where the noisy bushpigs had gotten to.

We walked until 11am. I had consumed about 100oz of water at this point (yes I kept a mental track), but with the heat at/over 110 degrees it was impossible to keep up. Between 11 and 1 the sun was just brutal. This being said, I enjoy Africa when it is hot, and I MUCH prefer these conditions to cold weather hunts. We met up with Eddie and drove to a nice area for our picnic lunch.

The Guys Chillin Waiting for the Truck


The first indication that I am beginning to run out of things to take pictures of!


There is a surprising amount of water in the hills


After lunch we drove a new road loop opened up recently by Gavin in the southwest corner of Ward 2, near to the boarder with Chewore. There was plenty of elephant sign, but nothing fresh enough to follow. We saw a fair amount of plainsgame here, including impala, warthog, grysbok, duiker, zebra and kudu cow.

On our long ride back to camp, Al and I talked a lot about what we were experiencing, relating our past elephant hunting trials and tribulations, trying to get into their heads so we could figure out a new plan. We deduced that with plenty of water in the hills but little food, the elephant were scattered about in smaller groups, drinking but not returning repeatedly to the same water hole. When they were moving they were doing so at night. It was clear that they were stressed - the rains were late. Tuskless hunting is a numbers game, as most herds in most areas in Zimbabwe do not contain tuskless and if they do often the tuskless have dependent calves and cannot be shot. And if you find a mature shootable tuskless, you still must manage to get close. We needed to be seeing more elephant, but without some help from Mother Nature, all we could do was more of the same and hope that we got lucky. Most guys have a pretty easy go on tuskless at this time of the year, but this Months of the Sun hunt was proving to be quite a challenge – perfect!!!


TUESDAY 11/23
This day was a bit of a blur, and my notes are sketchy. It was one of those grinder days where it seems like more of the same. The morning was somewhat cloudy keeping the temperature down while giving us a reprieve from the broiler in the sky.

A beautiful sunrise…wait…are those clouds?


We walked for about 3hrs in the morning, following tracks but having to leave them as the herd had entered into one of CMS’s hunting areas. When Eddie came to meet us, he said that he had seen some elephant along the dirt track. By the time we reached the location, it was 11am, and the clouds were beginning to burn off. We spent another 3hrs on foot, tracking in the heat of the day. We caught up to the elephant, but there were no tuskless in the group. The walk to the nearest road was brutal as the sun was now unfiltered. Al and I both had slight dehydration headaches, and commented that perhaps that tracking between 11 and 1 may not have been the smartest of plans.



We stopped to eat our pack lunch in a very nice dry sandy river bed with thankfully shade. It apparently was also a favored area for a huge percentage of the local mopane fly population. Up to this point we were spoiled and the mopane flies (which are actually stingless bees) were not that bad, and due to the heat there were virtually no tsetse flies. Rest was difficult. Al burrowed under a rock in the river bed, and I took refuge under my wool blanket that almost covered me. I had brought along a cheap head net that I purchased for a Lord Derby Eland hunt a few years ago and never used, and miraculously had put it in the backpack at the beginning of the hunt just in case. It kept the flies out of my ears/nose/eyes, but for some reason seemed to attract them. Even the guys took stress and sat by a camp fire instead of napping. Around 2:30 we had enough and joyfully got the hell out of there.



We drove Ward 2 in the afternoon, and took a few short walks to springs that the gamescout knew of. When we got back to camp, Buzz was there, intending to stay a few days visiting and attending to end of the year road building and other tasks. Japie pulled out of the deep freeze some select beef steaks and we enjoyed a very nice meal before retiring for the night. Buzz decided that it was too hot in the cabin, and had the guys move his bed outside into the grassy area. During the night, it began to shower, and Buzz had to drag his now wet mattress into the hut, stepping on a thorn bush along the way. By this time, the shower had stopped. This of course made for some entertaining breakfast conversation the next morning! No doubt about it, Buzz is fun.


WEDNESDAY 11/24
It was a glorious cloudy morning, and some of us were well rested and ready to go! Buzz headed south to the Dande East camp about an hour and a half away. The scouts had caught two poachers, and he wanted to make sure that everything was handled properly with the local authorities so that they would be prosecuted and not let go with a slap on the wrist, thereby setting an example for others in the area.

Our destination this morning was “Broken Bridge Road” a few hours away to our west. The children were waiting for us at the bus stop, noting there seemed to be a few more today. Once in the hunting area, we found tracks but they were heading the wrong direction and going from Ward 1 (where we were hunting) into the DSA (CMS’s area). Al had just finished hunting this area in the DSA, and lamented in the fact that at that time the elephant all seemed to be going the other way. A light rain began to fall.

Tantalizing Skies


We had our first road sighting of a young bull, who was moving among some rocks that all looked like elephant (elephant rocks!). Al talked to the guys, and it was felt that the bull was too young to be on his own, and there must be a herd or two in the area. Al asked me if I was ready to go for a walk, to which I replied “Sure!” with all the fake grin that I could muster. It was actually quite a nice walk in the hills...at first. After an hour or so we entered a wooded area and crossed what looked like an elephant freeway. The trail was worn deep, and fresh with prints. Obviously the elephant were using this path to get from point A to point B.

The herd appeared to have about 8 cows plus some young. They were moving, and our pace was a bit too fast for my leg. We hit a huge open area and I thought it best to hand my rifle off to one of the guys. I struggle with this, but it was the correct thing to do as it allowed us to move faster than we otherwise could have. At times during the hunt I traded the trackers my ~11lb Ruger Lott for the .375 Blaser, and what a huge difference there was. I know light weight bolt action and double rifles in big calibers are no fun to shoot, but personally I’d never want anything heaver than my Lott unless I was not going to be carrying the darned thing!

Despite our best efforts, we were not able to catch the elephant as they were on the move out of our hunting area and into the DSA. On the way to meet the truck, we jumped a large civit which are stunning animals with coal black coats, especially when viewed in contrast to the dry and grayish brown bush of the late season.

When we reached the road 5hrs after we started, I saw our own tire tracks. This herd of elephant had crossed the road within a hundred yards of the herd whose tracks we had seen earlier today. The Great Migration was on apparently, and they were going the wrong way! Was it coincidence, or did the elephant all get the same text message that there were hunters now in Ward 1 but the DSA was clear? When one has hours to think…this is the sort of earth-shattering questions that goes thru ones mind.

When on foot, I try to not ask too many questions, noting that after a few hunts an observant person can pretty well determine what is going on. At this point, other than being lost most of the time especially before I get a grasp of the area and landmarks, I have a real good feel for elephant hunting and seldom am I not tuned into the hunt. There is no substitute for experience, but I will pass along the following insight as it offers one “hope” during a long march. How does a hunter tell when he is close to the truck? There are signs that the road is getting close. They are subtle, but if perceptive, very noticeable. Usage of the radio can be either a good or bad thing, as it either means that you are close and the PH is tweaking the meeting point (assuming the PH has a driver), or it could mean that one or the other is horribly lost. A more reliable tool is the pace of the trackers which quickens for no apparent reason, and the trackers footsteps get lighter. If the PH was slowing his pace to match yours, he’ll put a little more distance between the two of you. In flat areas, keep scanning the horizon looking for tree lines as often roads are built along these natural boundaries. Also look for changes in the terrain such as dirt piles perpendicular to the horizon that might indicate a well-worn road especially in soft ground. When the PH cycles his rifle to remove a chambered round or breaks open his double, you are golden. Again, a wondering mind is a dangerous thing!!!

Lunch Time


After enjoying our pack lunch (which contained some buffalo biltong today – Japie was spoiling us!) we drove north along the Chewore hills to the Zambezi River. We did not see much game except for one valley where a herd of sable and zebra were milling about. Al and I glassed while the guys briskly walked to the floor to check a permanent spring for any buffalo or elephant sign. Their presence flushed the zebra first then the sable, which was led by a beautiful black bull with huge sweeping horns.

Zambezi River


We arrived back at camp at 7pm…another 14hr day. I was gassed, and marveled at Al who not only walked as much as I did, but drove. For those that think driving is easy, watch your PH work the wheel and tranny and clutch next time especially in rough terrain.


THURSDAY 11/25 - THANKSGIVING
Leaving my family over the Thanksgiving holiday was not without reservation, and some regret. I’m involved in a small IT company, and thankfully business has been good, but oddly the larger we have become the more challenging it has gotten to get away for the two weeks that a trip to Africa requires. The Thanksgiving timeframe worked out from a business perspective, but at the cost of time away from the family. Being able to talk to them every other day helped on both fronts, yet I couldn’t help feeling a little guilty today. And I was missing some good football and of course a huge turkey dinner!

We got on tracks today early, at around 6:30am. The weather was a “cool” 90 degrees. The ground was a bit hard and rocky, but the guys did a great job staying on the spoor. Our team was clicking…a well-oiled hunting machine. For part of the tracking Al hung back allowing me to walk behind Maplan and Martin. They being shorter than Al, it was amazing how much better the view was. My steps felt lighter and the time passed quicker, as I became more engaged in the tracking. As much as I enjoy the companionship of a professional hunter, and need and respect their services, I can’t help but to feel that it would be very rewarding on my own with just the trackers…even just for a few days. Then again, it could be a total disaster!

The wind was good and we caught the herd in a shaded forest area feeding on a baobab tree, eating the bark as well as the flowers that had fallen to the ground. There was at least one young tuskless cow in the group, as well as a very large tusked cow who was probably the matriarch. As we moved to look over the rest of the herd, I felt the wind at the back of my neck. A few seconds later, without so much as a glance or a trumpet, the group rushed off. Our assumption was they had gotten a good smell and would be on the move for a while. These were not the aggressive elephant that I had last hunted in the Omay, including the cow who charged without provocation, albeit it had been the early season and perhaps the additional cover gave the elephant more confidence.



We took a short break before cutting to the closest road. We had not gone far when Martin froze, motioning to his right. It was a bull elephant sky-lined, walking parallel to us - and he had no tusk. We hurried to get a look at his other side, and were dismayed to see two feet of ivory sticking out. Our license was for “tuskless elephant” and does not stipulate that it must be a cow. Tuskless bulls are rare, but they do occasionally occur either via genetics or by breaking their tusks off at/under the lip.

We followed the bull, and as expected, he led us to a herd of about twenty cows and calves that were spread out over a hillside, peacefully feeding on mopane leaves. With the group were the half-dozen elephant that had winded us thirty minutes prior. Apparently the wind had swirled, and they did not pinpoint our location nor get a strong scent. The tuskless cow was in her early teens and not the old tuskless that Al and I were looking for. She was on her own and doing fine, and Al and I hypothesized that her mother had been shot, given the strong genetic tuskless link. We left the herd in peace and met up with Eddie and the truck around 10am.

Another Baobab Bites the Dust


By 11am we had found more tracks, but they were from the night before. The guys knew of a series of springs and thought the elephant might be heading there. With the heat of the day approaching, we decided to walk to the closest one which was about 1k away. 3k and 3 springs later, there were no fresh tracks, as the ele apparently walked past the springs without drinking.



We had not ventured far today, and decided to head back to camp for lunch, and then hunt the late afternoon in an area relatively close by in Ward 2. The camp staff made a nice presentation of our pack lunch from the coolbox.

A Typical Pack Lunch


Roll call was 4pm, and having had a nice cool shower and a 45 minute proper nap, I was raring to go. Al and I chugged a few Coke Zeros and gathered the team who I think assumed were going to get the rest of the day off. I must compliment the guys, this was the end of their long season and surely their minds were on all the fun that awaited them in a few short days. Yet never once did I see any hint of anything other than enthusiasm, they truly were a great bunch of guys including the gamescout Washington who had come around. He was helping track, spotting game, clearing brush from the road, and just more involved.

It was Washington in fact who spotted the small group of elephant off in the distance, otherwise we would have driven right past them. They had seen and/or heard our truck too, and quickly moved off. We did a fast half-circle around to where we thought they would be, only to find that they had changed course. We followed their tracks and after another couple of k’s before getting a look at them. Big cows, but all with tusks.

After a Jolly Rancher break, we prepared for what we thought was a decent walk to the closest road to meet up with Eddie. Humorously, the road was about 200 yards from where we had stopped, and we all arrived with the same stunned yet pleased look on our faces. It would take Eddie a lot longer to drive around, and the mopane flies were getting friendly. Al pointed out why, they had a nest in the tree next to where we had sat to wait for the truck.

Mopane Fly (Bee) Coned Nest


It was a pretty evening and rather than endure 20 minutes of their company, I decided it better to walk the road, and the guys followed. There was a foul stench in the air, the unmistakable odor of death. Bernard found the source, a kudu cow mostly-eaten by a leopard.

Leopard Kill




Taking the long way back to camp in and around some rural villages, I remembered that it was Thanksgiving day. Without sounding silly, it hit me squarely on the forehead how little these people have, yet how happy they seem to be. I gave thanks for all that I was blessed with, and renewed my promise to myself to not take things and most importantly those around me for granted.

Yesterday I had attempted a head-shot on a guinea fowl with the .375, and I missed. So instead of a “turkey dinner”, I asked Japie to prepare for us a “traditional Zimbabwe meal”. Japie never could quite understand my fondness for sadza, but obliged my humble request. Charter the camp cook did a marvelous job, and the waiters Diomus and Simba served the meal with pride. Lots of sadza, cabbage that Japie had to drive to three villages to find, chicken cooked in a pot with tomatoes and sauce, topped off with an African rendition of apple pie. It was my favorite meal of the trip! I went bed late…9:15pm.


FRIDAY 11/26
After a bowl of oats and fresh yogurt, we were off. The kids were thrilled to see us again as they piled in the back of the Land Cruiser.







One of the neat things about hunting with the same company multiple times is that you get to know a lot of the people affiliated with the organization, past and present. A couple times during the hunt we would be driving and stop to talk to somebody along the road. Their eyes would light up with recognition and shout “Hey, Mr. Bill!”. Al saw humor in this.

Anybody recognize these guys?




Having completed our civic duty, we headed West on the Security Road separating our hunting area from CMS’s Ward 11, then north on Mandevu Road to the Five Ways Intersection. Along the way we saw one herd of elephant with a nice tuskless, however, she had a dependent calf. This was fine, as shooting an elephant after spotting it from the truck and without any tracking was not what I was looking for.

The weather was cooler thanks to some cloud cover, and every now and again it would spritz requiring Al to flick the wipers on. We crossed fresh spoor along the Urira Road, in an area with nice bush, and decided to follow. After an hour or so, we found the herd feeding in some of the thickest bush that we had encountered yet during this hunt. Just as we came upon them – it happened – IT RAINED!!!!!

The jesse grew dark as thunder boomed seemingly from all directions overhead. It was different and bizarre and a little disorienting. The rain was cool and refreshing, and stealthed our approach. Al’s eyes grew large at the sight of a big cow with no ivory showing. Disappointment followed when she turned her head exposing a long tusk on her far side. We backed out leaving them undisturbed.

Rain at Long Last!


We made our way back to the truck and continued on. Further west, we crossed very fresh spoor from a herd of buffalo. While it was not our objective to hunt the herds, Al and I talked it over, and any tracks from this morning would be washed away. We either followed these buffalo and tried to catch them, or continue to drive around with little prospects of seeing anything else to follow. The landscape was hilly but open, so I traded Bernard my Lott for the scoped .375 and we set off. Long story short, we took a wrong turn and blew some valuable time, allowing the buffalo to make it across the boarder into the hills of Chewore.

After lunch, we got on another herd of buffalo, and tracked them to where they were resting. Al did a terrific job of getting us into position slightly lower and downwind where we waited until they began to move. They had no choice but to move single file along the trail they were on through a narrow opening in the rocks. The majority of the herd was up and to our left and had already past further up the hill, so it was just the bulls at the back funneling through. I was solidly on the sticks ~35 yards away with a perfectly clear shot, the scope turned down a bit, a .300gr TBBC in the chamber, while Al knelled and glassed. Young...young...not old enough...young...too soft...nope. Despite not shooting, it was an ideal setup and preferable in that I was prepared to make a precision shot with what has proven to be enough gun for the task at hand.

Everything was starting to move now, we were like kids in a candy store. We tracked an elephant herd for a bit, but they crossed into the DSA concession. However, no sooner had we abandoned them when the guys picked to tracks of a herd moving out of the DSA into our hunting area. The wind was iffy but at least there was action. We followed at a brisk pace and caught the group standing in a large opening. A nice mature tuskless was among them, without a dependent calf. Here we go. What happened next is bizarre, and nothing that Al or I had seen before.

The elephant either smelled or saw us, maybe both, but did not flee. Our thinking at the time was that they knew something was close, but could not pinpoint the location. Al and I left the trackers behind and slowly walked towards the closest cow, using what little cover there was. The mopane flies were swarming, and it a challenge to allow them to crawl on my lips and in my ears and up my nose without swatting…or freaking out. But we were convinced that the slightest movement would alert the elephant to our exact location and they would bolt. This was it, it had all come down to this, it was now or never.

We continued our approach from 150 yards to 100. At 75 yards, the herd which had been standing alert did the darndest thing. They backed into each other, rear-ends touching while all facing in different directions, despite Al and I standing in plain sight. They looked like a herd of muskoxen. The matriarch cow acted differently, and she stayed to the right of the herd (our left) and slightly in front. She pretended to feed and not act alarmed. At one point the group retreated a bit as she mock charged, which Al and I later learned was enough to send the trackers to the hills although I don’t understand why as they were behind a fallen log quite a distance behind us. Perhaps it looked more dicey than it was, or than I perceived. Had she charged it would have been an easy shot in the open, but shooting a tusked cow was NOT what either of us wanted to have to do, so we didn’t push them further.

It was basically a standoff, and at no point did I have a shot at the tuskless. After what seemed like 15-20 minutes of this, the matriarch bolted and the herd followed. They ran in the most peculiar fashion, almost as if they were all trying to hide behind one another. It was getting dark and after following a short while, we had to give up which was fine by me. This herd had acted odd, and I believe that it was due to having been poached in the past by multiple guns, fired when the elephants were running. The poachers don’t take head-on shots for fear of a charge, and they don’t need to make killing shots as without boarders they can follow the elephant for days until they eventually die. But of course I’ll never know for sure.

We had wondered afar today, and were now going to pay the price as camp was a solid 2 hours away. We arrived at Pedza at 8pm, tired from a 15 hour day and quite a few miles. Because the walking was divided up over multiple hikes, it did not seem like a lot until I did the math. I estimated that we were on foot and moving about 8 hours, and at a conservative 2 miles per hour, we covered at least 16 miles. Not bad considering a few weeks ago I was having severe reservations about this trip. With the rains came a renewed hope. Al and I made our plans to return to the same area as early as possible tomorrow, as with elephants and buffalo crawling out of the woodwork surely we were going to earn some luck. I hoped so, but honestly I didn’t care if we shot anything tomorrow, this hunt was not about that any longer, and perhaps it never was.


LAST HUNTING DAY - SATURDAY 11/27
We “set the alarm” 20 minutes earlier and made it out of camp at 4:30am. We drove for 2 hours west to Ward 2 before stopping for breakfast. Japie offered to have Charter make us some egg and sausage sandwiches, but I requested sadza and syrup. Al was all in. Scratching his head I am sure, Japie agreed and the guys had prepared for us each a container of sadza mixed with peanut butter.

Breakfast – Sadza and Peanut Butter


We drove the very same roads that we had been on the following afternoon, without seeing a SINGLE fresh track! From 7am until 12pm – nothing. I theorized that the elephant were active from the onset of the rain thru the night, and then stopped moving. The hope was that after lunch they would need to water, and maybe we would have a few hours to make something happen.

An early burn area responding to the first short rains


It was cooler now, and Al found a nice spot to have lunch and a short rest. We parked next to an active ant colony, which provided some entertainment especially after Al pulled out the sweet syrup. I learned a little too late in the hunt, but will remember for next time, what great pillows dried elephant dung makes. For some reason my dear wife is appalled by this, I don’t know why.



At 1:30 we packed up the cool box for the last hurrah. We quickly found tracks on Urira West Road, heading south and with good wind. We knew they were fresh as they were over our tire tracks from earlier in the morning. Figuring we would be moving, I gave Bernard my .458 Lott with the request that he stay glued to my side (and I his), and that if we got into any thick stuff, I would take the rifle. The guys did a superb job tracking, following mostly footprints and some times dung or the rare stripped mopane leaf thru thick rocky grass, into mopane scrub, then a forested area which was full of elephant sign.

After about an hour and a half, we lost the trail as there was a lot of sign and the elephant were milling around. They would spend time under one large shade tree, creating lots of tracks in all directions, then depart and repeat the sequence. It became a hurry up and wait game. As we searched for fresh tracks, I got everybody excited with the spotting of an elephant rock, which helped to relieve the tension. I was now carrying my rifle, as it felt as though we were close and Bernard needed to be able to focus on tracking.

At this point in the hunt, I was seeing tracks, and a few times caught the shiny glare of a elephant footprint and moved us ahead a few feet. Thunder was again booming in the distant, somebody was getting rain. I pondered if the elephant anticipated this and were moving in that direction. We continued walking only to have to turn back to where I had seen the elephant rock (which was still there!). We were stalled, and the guys were losing confidence.

Al and I caught each other’s eye. I smiled and whispered, “we are toast on this one” to which he replied “looks that way”. Then we heard it. We all froze, eyes wide and ears stretching. Was that an elephant?

Then we heard it again….it was buffalo. We exhaled and grinned, what were we thinking, elephant, how silly. We had been in this area several times already and somehow we managed to not spook them. Wait, did you hear that, that was elephant, there are buffalo AND elephant down there! Al’s eyes got huge and his actions abrupt. He took the lead and I followed, the guys falling in behind.

The buffalo heard us and spooked. It was a bigger herd than I thought, and my senses began to get overloaded with data input. As the black figures rumbled off to our right at 2-o’clock, I saw the elephant up a hill and off in the distance in front of us at 10 o’clock. They had heard the commotion and were looking back wondering what freaked out the buffalo. Al was glassing the elephant with his binos, and loudly whispered “TUSKLESS, LETS GO”.

We moved as quietly as possible but at speed down a slight incline and up the hill where the elephant were still standing. More buffalo! We hadn’t seen them, nor they us, but somehow part of the herd hadn’t fled and were still lying in the tall grass. There was movement and flashes of black and horns in all directions, it was chaos. Al didn’t flinch or falter, and we split them sending buffalo to our right and our left.

At this point the elephant figured they better get the heck of out of dodge too and began to run with buffalo in tow. Somehow during all this, I could not help but to see the humor in it. You couldn’t make this sort of stuff up!

I don’t know if the elephant ever saw us. Had they continued running straight, or turned right, with less than an hour of light we would have never caught them. But they didn’t, they turned left. Al led the charge looking to intercept them. We would run making all sorts of noise, then abruptly stop when the elephant paused to look. Al would lock them up while I was still in 3rd gear, and then glare back at me for making noise. I found this hilarious and Al later said he did too, and that my eyes were saying “Dude, you just went thru the same crap that I did and made just as much noise!”. I was happy to be running, although with my gait I am sure it was not pretty.

Then it happened fast. Al’s angle of interception and rate of closing had been perfect. We arrived at the opposite side of large rock formation as the four cows passed by. I could see two tuskless, one quite a bit larger than the other. Earlier in the hunt Al and I had talked, and I voiced that when it comes time to shoot, I need to take over as I’ve been through the drill before and having somebody giving direction while I am working out my own plan is very distracting. That time had come.

Al moved to the back while I stepped forward, taking the safety off. The shot was not as close as I would have liked, perhaps 25 yards, but there was no time to get closer. The big tuskless was looking at me at a slight angle. There was brush in the way, (see picture below) far more then I had perceived at the time. I stepped to my right, certain that at any moment she would run and I’d be without even a body shot. There it was, an opening. Settle the bead on the forehead, not too high, compensate for the angle of the head, the brain should be right back there…out of http://forums.accuratereloadin...x_popup=Ytime...fire. She dropped at the shot and was either knocked out or dead, but did not go down rear legs first. The other elephant which had been behind her moved forward and trumpeted. We scurried to our right and forward as the other tuskless caught up with the two cows on our left and departed. The downed tuskless began to stir and I shot her again. We had done it. It was 4:00, one hour before sundown, on the last day of the hunt. Wow.

My Shooting Lane, Sort of (tuskless is on the ground just to the left of the rock)




It was dark by the time we reached the truck, and the recovery would need to wait until tomorrow. As we were close to Gavin’s main camp, we drove there before heading back to Pedza with the hopes that Gavin’s appy Luke would be there and we could convince him to perform the recovery and distribution of the meat. Luke was indeed in camp with another appy, and we learned that Luke had just passed the Practical in October and he was now a full-fledged PH. They readily agreed, and I recall thinking that they weren’t asking enough questions in regards to the exact location of the elephant, acting cool as if they knew right where it was. As it turned out, they struggled to find it in the rain which had washed our tracks away, maybe next time they will listen a bit harder…and get the GPS coordinates! Nice young men and I hope they do well.

It was a pleasant but long ride back to camp, with Al and I chatty.

Well, at least as chatty as Al and I get.

Which isn’t really all that chatty.

DRIVE OUT & HOME
The rain began at 7am...figures. We packed up our things and prepared for the trip back, taking care to wrap my soft-cased Cabela's duffel in plastic. I gave the guys their tips, personally thanking each one for their services. The guidelines were realistic, and I believe all were happy with what they received. I said my goodbye’s promising to return.

Al filling up the tank for the ride south


Japie ready to head back to town after a long season


It was a nice ride back to Harare, muddy in places but we did not get stuck, despite being in a Land Bruiser! We dropped Martin off in the nearest town so he could buy some building supplies. He told Al that he wanted to purchase things before he spent all his money on beer! The escarpment was quite green and the closer we got to Harare the greener it became. Clearly the Valley was not getting its fair share of rain.

The escarpment off in the distance


We picked up an off-duty police officer on his way to Harare who rode with us for a while before asking to get off at one of the roadside towns. Al said that at first not having to buy a bus ticket probably sounded like a good idea, but after a few hours of getting pelted by rain, being crammed into a bus probably sounded pretty good. There were quite a few Police road blocks, but I just smile and we were always quickly on our way. Al even started to smile too at the female offices towards the end.



That night we had dinner with Steph and Buzz at their house, and much of the talk was about their new baby due in June. Buzz had all sorts of questions. Al has two small children (Kyle 6 & Chad 3) and I have three kids (aged 13, 21 & 23), so we were both willing to offer him all the wisdom and knowledge that he was craving. From changing dirty diapers to selecting the right basinet, he wanted to know it all.

Steph and Buzz are going to make great parents, and I am eagerly awaiting the new edition to the family. I suspect that the lucky little one will have lots of honorary Uncles!

The next morning after breakfast Buzz drove me to the airport for the long journey home. They are now printing the boarding passes in Harare for the Johannesburg flight, which for those on a tight schedule will save some precious time. I had a 7hr layover in Johannesburg, so it didn’t much matter. After walking the airport, I killed time in one of the Premier Lounges, which was $40 well spent. The flight from Joburg to Dulles was long but comfortable, and I arrived with all my bags although the Customs people in Dulles didn’t clear my rifle case until I had left the airport. It took a couple of weeks for it to be sent via cargo to a closer airport (Allentown) and for me to figure out how to get it through the Customs paperwork and pick it up. For those from the area, the Customs people at ABE are awesome, especially Officer Palmer.


CLOSING THOUGHTS
I would like to thank Al, Buzz, Myles, Japie, Eddie, Kirsty, Charmain and everybody from the CM Safaris Team. It was a great hunt and I eagerly await the next adventure.

To anybody lucky enough to have Al as your PH on an upcoming hunt, you will be in excellent hands and soon will have a new friend for life. Al is experienced, sincere and refreshingly modest. He and his team are tireless hunters, and I look forward to a future hunt with them.

To Saeed and my friends on AR, thank you for allowing me to continue sharing my hunts and adventures with you. I hope we all have many more evenings together around the virtual campfire!

Please feel free to PM or email me with any questions.

Fantastic trip, thanks for taking the time to post it up.

Bill, congratulations on a wonderful hunt and a great report as always. I particularly enjoy seeing familiar faces in the pictures. Again, congratulations and best wishes for a healthy and prosperous New Year.

Bill, I always enjoy your detailed reports and great photography. And in spite of myself, I usually learn something along the way.

Thank you and Happy New Year.

Jeff.

As usual, great report Bill. As much as I love the hunting part, I really appreciate your taking the time to list out and talk about your gear.

Great report, Bill! Congratulations.

Bill,
Congrats on a great late season hunt with CMS! And thanks for the usual thorough and entertaining hunting report. Well worth the thirty minutes it took me to read it! I agree with your assessment of African hunting and whether it is tough or not... it all depends on the area, weather and scarcity or wariness of the game hunted. Late season hunts in the Valley's hills can test one's endurance and heat tolerance!

Let's see... I hunted with Japie when he managed Chifuti's Mwanja Camp. And was that Tino in the last picture in that series? I think he is hunting with Len at Chifuti now. Couldn't make out the guy with the bike.

Great old buff bull and nice tuskless hunted properly. Well done all around, my friend.

Bill C,

Sounds like you had a wonderful hunt! Enjoyed you story and how you told it!

Best,

jpj3

Bills, thanks so much for the report and photos. It sounds like a wonderful trip.

Congrats Bill. Great read, appreciate you taking the time to put the report together...

Well done Bill. Thank you for sharing and for a great report!

Outstanding report.

Looks like you had a great time.

Great report, as usual, Bill. Thank you and congratulations. It's interesting to see goals and attitudes change with growing experience and time.

Congratulations on a great hunt. Thanks for all the details and pictures.

Excellent report!

Torbjørn

Hi Bill

A wonderful report!! Thank you very much, it's good when our spirits can have the opportunity to travel when we are trapped in an armchair.
You're now deeply addicted to Africa and that's perfect for us onlookers.
I think for having met you that You're a very nice fellow and your pics talk for it.
There are only 2 pics of You and scores of youngsters and African guys. That's the definitive proof that Africa has badly bitten You and
that You take immense care of others
instead of You. No big bwana style, but a perfect gentleman.
Thanks my friend.
All the best for You and Your wife and Sons and Daughter.

Terrific report, Bill. Congrats!!

Congratulations,Bill.Good work with the open sighted Ruger lott.Which solid did you use on the ele and how did it do?

Thanks Bill.
I always look forward to your reports of Safari.....It's the next best thing to being there!!

Bill,

Thats a great story with a last minute success. It was good fun to read.

Not being a fan of hot weather I doubt I could have made it and certainly would not have been as cheerful about it as you were.

Get that hip done. After I did mine I was upset I had delayed it so long. The recovery was short and its such a pleasure to take long safari walks normally. If it ever wears out I will happily go get another one put in.

Great report. Thanks for taking the time to write it up in such detail.

Very nice Bill! Congrats! I love the Dande area!

Bill,

Thank you for the story and the trip details. And thank you for the photos.

Tim

Bill - An awesome report as always! Thanks!

Doug

Bill, great seeing you in Dallas and great report. I will be chasing lion with Alan in May.

Rick

great report.

OVER THE TOP !!! Once again and as always!!!

Very well done!

Bill,
Thank you for letting us accompany you on your hunt report.

Mike

Excellent...

Thanks for sharing...

Just re-read.
Best Hunt Report Writer on the Planet!

Bill, agreed that you write the best hunting reports on AR! I also appreciate you sharing the little tips; I too have grown to really appreciate the NUUN's tabs and the PHs won't hesitate to ask for some on the hunts but sure appreciate the leftovers as tips.

It is also quite hilarious to watch the trackers reactions as their faces all but say "silly white men can't even drink plain damn water". They must wonder what type of drugs the white man needs to deal with heat?

Thank you as always for the nice comments.

Shootaway, sorry for the delayed reply, my first shot was with the .450gr Barnes flat point solid. As it was late day, on the last day, we were unable to perform the recovery and as such I was not able to trace the path of the bullet or determine penetration. On a previous cow, the Barnes penetrated the top of the head (not a typical shot as it was a charge), went thru the brain cavity and was found in the neck/shoulder area. The recovered bullet was straight with a slight bulge in the front, with an interesting “Dimple” replacing what was the flat point.

I returned a few weeks ago from an elephant bull tracking hunt w/Buzz, and when I get an opportunity I will put up a report including some pictures of a “post-mortem” on the ele skull, and the recovered Woodleigh .500GR.

Russell, the older gentleman with the bike is Bashop, Cryton’s father. He’s still actively tracking for Ivan Carter I believe, and appears to be in great shape for any age!

Thanks again! Bill

Congrats on a great safari Bill, The report and pics are top notch. great detail on both... Thanks for posting

Jay

Great entertaining report as always Bill - well done.
Regards
Rob

What a fantastic report! Informative and entertaining, made more so by the fact that I know the area and guys who feature. Well done and thank you Bill, made my day.

David

An engrossing and exceptionally well written report, Bill. As David remarked, there is a particular delight when the story involves people and places you know and care about.

Many thanks for taking the time to allow all of us to relive your hunt. Should you ever tire of the IT game, you may wish to consider a career in adventure writing!