Well after reading on this forum about the ability to switch barrels on Savages, I picked up a 12 BVSS Savage and a 116 Savage....which will end up with a varmint stock on it also....

Now it is time to start looking at a switch barrel for the 223...

Hopefully this will not get into the pissing match that went on over the 223vs 220 Swift thread.....

But what would you guys pick for a first change barrel on this rifle...

Thinking about:

17 Mach IV,
17 Rem,
19/223 Calhoon
20 tactical
20 Vartag...( 20/221 Fireball)
2004 Ruger.....

Anyone with any experiences with these rounds.. would be appreciated...
15 minutes or less to change a barrel.. looks like this could be a lot of fun....

Cheers
seafire

seafire,

A switch-barrel Savage is also on my short-list of To-Do projects. I need an cost-effective and efficient platform to transport to the US for Varmint Shooting excursions.

My list would be pretty vanilla-flavored but I figured if I had a Savage Low Profile L/H starting life as either a .204 Ruger or .223 Remington it would have to have to eventually sport all three of Savage's current chamberings, the .204 Ruger, .223 Remington and the .22-250 Remington. To round out the package and add some longer-range punch to go with the .22-250 bolt head, .243 Winchester wouldn't be a bad idea either.

I'd use a set of EAW mounts for quick scope changes on the reciever.

IMO that would cover a whole bunch of Varminting with one rifle and two-three quick change barrels. I think it would be a pretty nifty package in probably the most popular Varminting catridges available today?

I would probably look into the 204 Ruger since you already have the 223. You might also try something like the 6mm TCU.

Probably a .221

I ordered a 250-3000 barrel and an unchambered 6.5, 9 twist today for my Stevens mod 200. The 6.5 will become a new wild cat.

I'll post my range results today with my 12BVss-s .223 on small calibers. 75gr., 69gr., and 60 gr., Sierras.Just plain WOW. roger

quote:

Hopefully this will not get into the pissing match that went on over the 223vs 220 Swift thread.....

Seafire,

I can't understand why it would, everyone knows the 223 will kick the swifts a$$.....

Anyhow, I would go with the 204 for the first switch barrel. You can shoot it and if there is something about it you don't like, you can sell the whole works in a moment and will likely lose very little.

Whos barrels would you use?

Jim

quote:

Originally posted by Gerry:

if I had a Savage Low Profile L/H starting life as either a .204 Ruger or .223 Remington it would have to have to eventually sport all three of Savage's current chamberings, the .204 Ruger, .223 Remington and the .22-250 Remington. To round out the package and add some longer-range punch to go with the .22-250 bolt head, .243 Winchester wouldn't be a bad idea either.

You'd also need another magazine box unless you got the single shot model. I love my left handed Savages. I switch one between 22.250 and 243 just to make it easier. My next project will be getting the parts to switch my 300WSM to 204.

Frank:

Could you PM me with the logistics on changing the bolt face on the Savages?

I bought a 116 in a Magnum action.. just to have that long magazine length....

As far as worrying about the magazine box.. I'd just recommend getting a benchrest follower for about $12.00 and that would eliminate the problem....

instead of the 300 WSM, I am actually thinking about a barrel in 6.5 WSSM.....The 6.5 WSM might offer more, but at the expense of a lot more powder to do so... and not all that much more in velocity, but a faster throat erosion problem....

I also like the idea of the 6.5 WSSM because it is different than the 6.5 x 284 that everybody and his brother is shooting... if I am swapping barrels, I want to walk the path less taken....

cheers
seafire

Got a 110V that started out as a .223. Set it back to .221. Now it is getting a 6BR from Shilen. Looks like the internal mag will take 2 rounds. 3 with a little work on the feed lips. Should be a "real killer"! And accurate too. Bolt head change takes about 10 min. Barrel change takes about the same. Way too easy.

l think a 6 tcu would be fun,1 in 12 twist,or
a 204 or a 222mag.1 in 8 twist or a ??
oh hell you pick 0ne or all.Have fun.
Jon D.

For lot of Savage-specific articles, message boards, parts, and accessories, check out the following links.

SavageShooters
SharpShootersSupply

I just looked over at savageshooters.net. Looks like an interesting site, but it doesn't allow message board browsing without registration. That's BS. I'm not in the mood to sign up on yet another message board just to see what's on it.

JMHO;

I buy the factory barrels in 223 for long(er) range varmint rifles, the 223's have 1:9" twist. Might suggest looking (down the road) at a 22BR/22-284 combination. Switching boltheads is simple. Just use a once-fired case to headspace with.

regards,

Rich

There are a few not mentioned like the:

300 whisper
6.5 TCU (223 case)
7mm TCU

I don't have an opinion on what calibers, whatever you feel like loading. I do suggest you look into new take-off barrels. I got mine, a 26" fluted ss in 25-06 from Sharp Shooter Supply, along with their stainless recoil lug. Savage factory barrels are known to be good shooters, and can be found cheap.

I've also seen good prices on take offs in the SavageShooters classified adds, and e-bay. E-bay bidding can get out of hand though. I see NEF barrels go higher than new from NEF!

Actually bja..... that is not a bad idea at all...

thanks for the tip!

cheers
seafire

Just did my first switch barrel...doing a complete facelift on my sons 22-250. Bought a 22-250 AI barrel from Midway for $82, my brother in law had the tools, barrel wrench, lock nut wrench....I had to buy go guage, dies.
Once I got the barrel headspaced and setup in the action I figured I needed a new stock for it to.....a call to Boyds and $93 I got a semi finsihed varmint stock coming, another call to Sharp Shooter Supply and now I got a trigger on the way also. Savage rifles make for a great tinkerers rifle.....user servicable.

I've done several of these, and they are really easy. I have a 204 Ruger and a couple of 6mmbr's. They're great. Been thinking of the 20 VT too.

If you want a repeater instead of a single shot, you may want to stay with something based on the 223 round or the 204. I also have a 6mm-250 and it is sweet, feeds as slick as a 22-250 in my repeater.

Some of the rounds you asked about may not feed and you will have to shoot them SS.

Does anyone know if a .22 Hornet bbl and bolt face is readily available for a Savage 112 action? I have a single shot in .223, and would be interested in a switch bbl close range rig.

quote:

Originally posted by skb2706:
Just did my first switch barrel...doing a complete facelift on my sons 22-250. Bought a 22-250 AI barrel from Midway for $82, my

How does that A-B Barrel shoot? I've had mixed results with the ones I've tried. roger

Bare with me you switch barrel advocates and peruse my concerns - then help me out if you can?
So you have one base Rifle (platform?) and you want to have fun with it. Your idea of fun (usefullness?) is having some more (several?) barrels that you can somehow hook up to this main frame or Rifle platform.
What are you trying to achieve with these extra barrels for your main frame Rifle - over a seperate Rifle in that caliber?
My concerns about switch barrel Rifles (and of all the many dozens of people I have asked this question of - I have never received a clear answer to date!) do you have to resight in your Rifle each time you switch a barrel on your "main frame" gun?
For some reason the owners (and makers!) of switch barrel Rifles tend to avoid answering my question in this regard, specifically - hence I do not any longer have an urge to simplify my life with a switch barrel Rifle.
If anyone knows the answer to these following questions also please advise.
How long does it take to "switch" a barrel?
Can you switch your barrel in the field?
Do you prefer to clean your switch type barrels in or out of the "main frame", or, in or out of the Rifles action and stock?
How much do you save per barrel (different calibers!), over the cost of a whole new Rifle and a seperate scope for that Rifle in a different caliber?
Is it worth it going to a switch barrel set-up for a Varmint Hunter as opposed to maybe a different answer for a mostly target shooter or plinker and sometimes Varminter?
Maybe I can still be convinced a switch barrel set-up would be nice to have!
The price of scopes was what got me interested in switch barrel rigs about 20 years ago and we all know what has happened to the price of scopes during that length of time!!!
Thanks in advance.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

In the case of a Savage action, the time to switch a barrel takes about 15 minutes. Say you have a New .204 and you want to try a .223. Switch the barrel and you're good to go. Anything with the same size case head. 22 Hornet, .221 Fireball, .204 Ruger, .222, .223 etc.
Now if you want to go to a larger caliber, you also change the bolt head. That takes about another 10 minutes. Had a friend that had a 30.06. A little too much kick for him so we switched it over to a .308. Much more betta for him. In my case I started out with a 110 action in .223. Switched that to .221 Fireball. Now it's being changed to a 6BR. Swap the barrel and bolt head and head to the range. The only problem you might run into would be feeding of the round.(depending on the length of the round) A single shot follower takes care of that.
As far a sighting in the rig after you switch barrels, I would think it would depend on the size of the round. Changing from a .204 to a 22-250 might make a big difference on where the bullet hits. You're going to need an excuse to burn some rounds anyway, so a sight in is a good reason. And if you're really into it, you can switch barrels at the range. If you like the rifle you have and would be interested in trying it in a different caliber, do the switch barrel thing. Somewhere between $200.00 and $300.00 and you're in business. Can't do that with a Remington. (unless you have a lathe and the know how or been there, done that) Rather than buying a another rifle, use the extra $$$ for ammo or reloading supplies and gear. JMHO. Mike.

Re-zeroing the scope is a nessesary evil of switch barrel guns. The best thing about doing a switch barrel is playing around with different calibers without the expense of a new rifle. I have two actions (a 110 and a 116 SS) that have barrels for .220 Swift, .270Win, .338 WMag, and .416 Taylor. More to come after I get another in .223 rem. I have a couple of bolts, one in magnum face and one in standard so I use the second bolt instead of swaping bolt heads.

My brother in law is making the true use of the switch barrel idea. He cannot afford a bunch of rifles and hates to borrow so he'll buy a Stevens 200 in .308Win for deer hunting 4 weeks of the year and for the other 11 months he's buying a 22-250 barrel. The same stock and 3-9 scope will serve duty on each.

BTW Seafire, I think you should definatly go with a 6.5-223 that way I'll already have some info on it when I get around to making mine

quote:

Originally posted by VarmintGuy:
Bare with me you switch barrel advocates and peruse my concerns - then help me out if you can?
So you have one base Rifle (platform?) and you want to have fun with it. Your idea of fun (usefullness?) is having some more (several?) barrels that you can somehow hook up to this main frame or Rifle platform.
What are you trying to achieve with these extra barrels for your main frame Rifle - over a seperate Rifle in that caliber?
My concerns about switch barrel Rifles (and of all the many dozens of people I have asked this question of - I have never received a clear answer to date!) do you have to resight in your Rifle each time you switch a barrel on your "main frame" gun?
For some reason the owners (and makers!) of switch barrel Rifles tend to avoid answering my question in this regard, specifically - hence I do not any longer have an urge to simplify my life with a switch barrel Rifle.
If anyone knows the answer to these following questions also please advise.
How long does it take to "switch" a barrel?
Can you switch your barrel in the field?
Do you prefer to clean your switch type barrels in or out of the "main frame", or, in or out of the Rifles action and stock?
How much do you save per barrel (different calibers!), over the cost of a whole new Rifle and a seperate scope for that Rifle in a different caliber?
Is it worth it going to a switch barrel set-up for a Varmint Hunter as opposed to maybe a different answer for a mostly target shooter or plinker and sometimes Varminter?
Maybe I can still be convinced a switch barrel set-up would be nice to have!
The price of scopes was what got me interested in switch barrel rigs about 20 years ago and we all know what has happened to the price of scopes during that length of time!!!
Thanks in advance.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

VG:

YOu brought up a batch of question that lead me to thinking this entire project out..

My concerns about switch barrel Rifles (and of all the many dozens of people I have asked this question of - I have never received a clear answer to date!) do you have to resight in your Rifle each time you switch a barrel on your "main frame" gun?
With that question, my answer was to have a scope dedicated to that barrel, with plain old simple but not attractive, Weaver Bases and rings....I am also not putting on the real HIGH quality Leupolds, etc, that I know you use on most of your rifles....this rifle will be a real field gun, so Pretty, isn't on the menu...functional is...

Your idea of fun (usefullness?) is having some more (several?) barrels that you can somehow hook up to this main frame or Rifle platform.
My real scope of thinking about this, is that when I make a long trip to shoot varmints, like say over to your state of Montana to shoot Prairie Dogs.... Instead of having half a dozen rifles or more, plus supporting ammo, I can take one or two rifles and multiple barrels....this will actually take up less room, and also, will not look like I have a ton of rifles in my vehicle and inviting theft when I park it to get something to eat at Fuddruckers in Missoula, like I always do... It also gives me the ability to have different calibers available for what the field conditions may have available for opportunity... I usually set up several rifles when I shoot, one for shots under 200 yds which get a lot of action, but then another one, for those pesky little ones that sit out there at 300 to 500 yds and thumb their nose at you.... so I could set up, say a 223 for the under 200 yd targets and one say in 22.250, or 204, or 243, or 6mm Remington for those that are out there just sticking their tongues out at me....I am sure you can relate to that one...

How long does it take to "switch" a barrel?
Can you switch your barrel in the field? These were major concerns in the field for me.... as it had to be easy in the field.... at home going to the range is easy.......The Savage by far is the easiest to do this, but a few of my buddies who are gunsmiths, were telling me, that if you have the set up to do so, as long as the barrel stays on the same rifle and you have an empty case to reset the head space, it is not that hard..... you need a vice, which can be easily mounted on a truck bumper or a table ( as I was looking to set up a portable reloading table to take in the field......a vice and a barrel nut wrench is what is needed on a Savage....it is supposed to take about 10 minutes or less if your bolt face stays the same... like going from 223 to 204 etc...but you can change the bolt face on a Savage also easily.. just takes more time.. so far I have purchased TWO Savages for this endeavor, a 223 and a 7 Rem Mag that just had a Cheap price tag on it... the 223 is a BVSS, so it is set to go, to have a switch barrel with anything that has a 223 bolt face (.378)..... the 7 Mag is a 116... I wanted the Stainless receiver and the Long Action.... I will keep this bolt face, for a WSSM cartridges that suit my fancy... and will get another bolt in a long action, with an 06 bolt face for those cases... I think cost on that was $135.00....So two rifles will cover, pretty much what I need... the 116 is getting a Varmint stock ordered via Boyd's Gunstocks....ON a trip to Montana, I can take two rifles and say 6 Barrels and have a blast for a long time!
As far as cleaning the barrels, in the field.. I'd do it right in the stock....I use a bore snake in the field and call it good anyway....


What are you trying to achieve with these extra barrels for your main frame Rifle - over a seperate Rifle in that caliber?
Makes the Wife, more clueless, on how many toys you actually have, if the wife is that NOSEY and complainsy about it all the time! Honey.....

Another thing, I like about Switch barrels, is I have several rifles, that are Just Right! The trigger is set up exactly like you want it...

I have a batch of rifles that I will never get rid of....My two VLS Remingtons, are just perfect... but I don't have to get rid of them when the barrel is fried... and a switch barrel, is like having a newer barrel, you can slap on there any time.... Also think of the versatility, say ya invite me out to shoot prairie dogs with ya, etc... So I bring the old 260 VLS, that is perfect with the trigger... day one, we want to wack prairie dogs all day.... so I spin on a 22.250 barrel and we shoot the day lights out of them..... next day, we hope to go out to call and shoot coyotes over all the carcasses we left in the field the day before with prairie dogs... so I can spin on a 243 or the 260 barrel on it... just to be different... we have a blast doing that, but the coyotes get wise after lunch, that that particular field isn't a safe place to be for a coyote.... so then are back to shooting prairie dogs, but I am getting low on 22.250 ammo finally, and instead of having to stop to go reload some more... and since the prairie dogs are a little smarter today, so they are hanging way way out there, I instead pick the 243 or 6mm Rem barrel and with some 75 grain HPs loaded, we can nail em, way out there.... So after a couple of days of that... it is finally not quite as fun... but it is antelope season, and I remembered to purchase a tag.... so back goes on the 260 barrel, or maybe I wanted to test out a 7/08 barrel instead.. so we spin that one on, and we are out glassing for those 400 yd shots on that big horned antelope....

Sure the 22.250 could have done the entire job.... But having the different barrels, not only adds flavor to the outing, the ONE rifle and Stock that fits me like a glove, and I know in my sleep, is meeting all of the above needs.... If the barrels are already to go and chambered for that rifle.... I can actually order barrels ahead of time... and not tie up my favorite rifle at the gunsmith for 6 to 12 weeks each barrel change.... It takes a long time to wear out an action... barrels wear out like tires do....

And finally, I know this is a sacriledge statement to make for a true varmint hunter... but it also allows me to clean out my gunsafe a lot without feeling so guilty, like I am giving away my kids, or my dogs......


So I figure that if the Savage is that easy, and it works out.... I may do that to some of my other rifles....

Like I have a Winchester Model 70, in 338 Mag, with an awesome stock, and a barrel that is accurate enough for Elk hunting.... But that rifle sits in my gun cabinet and collects dust for 11.5 months out of the year....

With a switch barrel, I can spin on a Magnum contour barrel in say 28 inches in length..., take the bolt out of my 30/06... put a 6mm Remington barrel on there, with a one in 8 twist... use that action for 6 to 8 months shooting the hell out of that barrel....
Come elk season, spin the 338 Mag barrel back on, use it for a week to shoot with the 338 at the range, and then take it elk hunting for a week... then instead of the rifle sitting back in the gunsafe for the next 11 months again, the 6mm Remington barrel goes back on, or may I get the urge to try a 257 Roberts barrel on it instead, with a 75 grain V Max for a season....away I go!

As for the question, of why not do that with the 06? well I will shoot the 06 a lot more during off season, the 338 I don't have a real need to....but for the off season for that 338, just pulling the bolt out of the Model 70 30/06 when I want to spend my time shooting long range with my 6mm Rem or 257 Roberts....

As far as costs for the Savage, SavageShooter's Supply's cost on a barrel is $275.00 for most of them.. the barrel nut wrench is $35.00..... then you have your barrel vise which can vary depending on source...... but it will work on mulitple barrels...

I also have a 223 featherweight that I love.. and don't want to shoot out...a great walking varminter... then a 243 Winchester Varmint rifle that is a tack driver.. the action is bedded in the stock and it has a trigger adjusted just right.. the rifle feels just right.....stock shape etc....But say making a trip to Montana, 1200 miles for home when I go to Billings... take the featherweight, and the 243 Varminter, and then a 223 weight varmint barrel, a 204 varmint barrel, a 22.250 varmint barrel....and a scope for each barrel in Weaver mounts....and the 223 barrels were originally head spaced using the bolt out of the featherweight....4 barrels, 4 scopes...I am sure you see the utility....besides changing the barrel, the down time, will settle down the pests for a while.. and allow things to cool off a little....none are which a bad thing.....

I also have ONE Ruger, in 22.250 that belonged to a dear friend who passed away....It is the VT model.... Ruger doesn't chamber then in, any of the other calibers that I'd actually like available on this action, for target shooting and when the mood strikes me....but If the Savages work out.. I plan on getting barrels for this Ruger VT, in 260 and 7/08....

I also have a Mauser that is has just had a BULL Barrel, 31 inches long put on it, chambered in 6mm Rem.. if this is as easily changed as a gunsmith friend told me, and will actually show me how to do it in his shop, it will also get a couple of other BULL barrels chambered for it.... but it has a Timney Trigger on it, and is also waiting for a custom stock, in a blue and grey laminate waiting to be finished....If this works out, this rifle may end up with 5 or 6 other barrels chambered in different calibers for it... but all with that really long bull barrel lengths...the stock I ordered has a 5 inch beavertail forearm.....


Sorry for the ramblings, but I know you and I can think alike on these kind of subjects.. the other guys will just have to ignore it...

Once I get a few of these done for this summer's varmint season, I'll stop by in Dillon and look ya up, and let you fondle these finished projects that I will have with me on the way over to Billings....

That has been my thoughts on the subject....

cheers
seafire

I have taken the barrels off hundreds of Mausers, I have not pulled the barrel on my Savage 110 30-06, but I will buy a nut wrench from Brownells



From the Brownells web site on Savage 110 action wrenches:

quote:

10. Savage 110/10 - This rifle uses a lock nut threaded onto the barrel
ahead of the independent recoil lug to secure the barrel to the receiver.
After the barrel is threaded into the receiver, the lock nut is tightened so it brings pressure to bear against the recoil lug and receiver, thereby securing the barrel.
The two Action Wrench Heads are used to loosen the barrel lock nut;
they are NOT attached to the receiver and you do NOT turn the receiver.
Each head has either a round or square lug placed into a milled cut. This lug engages matching cuts in the lock nut. Position the Action Wrench Heads so they engage any two opposing cuts on the lock nut.
Once the two Heads are positioned correctly, place the Action Wrench
Base on either Head and thread the two large Allen bolts through both
Heads and into the Base. Tighten the bolts. Any gap between the heads
must be even on either side of the receiver.
The recoil lug on the Savage has a positioning tab that engages a cut in
the face of the receiver. The Action Wrench Heads do NOT, and are not
needed to position the recoil lug during assembly.
Important Note: In the late 1960’s Savage modified the barrel nut.
Prior to this the locking nut had radiused or round bottom grooves or
notches milled into the exterior surface. Any spanner or action wrench
used to tighten the nut had radiused projections that matched these
grooves. The Brownell Action Wrench Head, #080-801-110, is intended for
the “old style†round bottom grooves.
Current production barrel nuts have a square cut or flat bottom
grooves. Use of an “old style†Action Wrench Head with a round projection
or lug could deform or damage the nut. Use only the “new style†square
notch Action Wrench Head, #080-801-109, on these newer production
nuts. DO NOT use a “new style†Action Wrench Head on the “old styleâ€
round groove barrel nuts. Again, the barrel nut will be damaged or ruined if this is done.
can use any block, which is flat on one side, and the base/handle unit.
Make sure both flat surfaces are flat and free from burrs. Use steel or
brass shim stock if necessary to prevent dings in the jaws from marking
the action.

I certainly can make or buy barrel vices and make of buy barrel collets to fit the barrels.
To grasp the barrel and grasp the nut sounds possible.

If the scope stays with the reciever [sounds like there would need to be a washer between nut and reciever if nothing holds the reciever in place], I would be ok with in the field barrel swapping in varmnint hunting for prairie dogs or ground squirells, where not every shot counts, and I can zero a scope with misses.

But for coyote, deer, elk, etc. I would want to sight in the rifle after switching barrels.

I have been shimming, orienting, and glassing the scope mounts to the reciever, based on Leupold scopes in the middle of thier adjustment range. This seems to be consistant from scope to scope and rifle to rifle enough to get on the paper.

Also, Savage barrels without open sights can get swapped from rifle to rifle. Those with open sights, upon headspacing with the nut, could find the sight dovetails in the wrong orientation, depending on the thread clocking of the reciever.

For in the field, a barrel vise that was not theaded for the bolts might be better. The vise in the shop is mounted to a 300 pound bench. In the field, one might want a bolt head and bolt nut reacting to the torque of two long handled socket wrenches. Or a long handle could be put on the barrel vise that was perpendicular to the bolts, and the vise handle could react to one long handled socket wrench.

Put me with the group who tries to get .223 barrels with a tighter twist (1-10" or 1-9"). Then I rechamber them! .22-250, ,22-250AI, etc., to handle 60-69gr bullets. I use my .223 with 40 grain bullets, either Nosler or Hornady. The 1/14" and 1/12" twists work fine with the lighter stuff.

My Savage barrel wrench arrives tomorrow.

I see there are two schools of thought:
1) barrel vise and nut wrench for the main torque and tape on the tang and Crescent wrench holds the tang to prevent slippage.
2) action wrench and nut wrench take up the torque.

The receiver is round and the barrel is round, so the difference between the two techniques is having a 1.345" ID bushing for the receiver or a 1.03 ~ 1.055" ID bushing for the barrel.

I will make both bushings and try both.

I recently rebarreled a 110 with a 26" stainless 25-06 barrel. Very easy. I used a combination of Go gauge, factory ammo, and sized cases to set the headspace. After a few outings, I decided to increase headspace a bit more, it was easier the second time. It is so easy, you could increase headspace to match necksized brass rather than set the shoulder back!

For switch barrel rifles, You had better get good at sighting in in the field on a varmint hunt. I can also forsee trouble if you leave the scope on. Once you loosen the nut, the scope will spin to 6:00, possibly whacking the bench.

Maybe a set of very good QD bases and a seperate scope for each barrel? Then it won't be cheap anymore.

quote:

Originally posted by bja105:
I recently rebarreled a 110 with a 26" stainless 25-06 barrel. Very easy. I used a combination of Go gauge, factory ammo, and sized cases to set the headspace. After a few outings, I decided to increase headspace a bit more, it was easier the second time. It is so easy, you could increase headspace to match necksized brass rather than set the shoulder back!

For switch barrel rifles, You had better get good at sighting in in the field on a varmint hunt. I can also forsee trouble if you leave the scope on. Once you loosen the nut, the scope will spin to 6:00, possibly whacking the bench.

Maybe a set of very good QD bases and a seperate scope for each barrel? Then it won't be cheap anymore.

Were you clamped on the barrel or the receiver?

I clamped the barrel vise on the barrel.

I do not have an action wrench for round receivers, but some guys at Savage Shooters use them with or instead of a barrel vise.

I just can't see a barrel nut wrench or action wrench clearing a scope to change barrels without removing the scope.

I don't tink these barrel nuts need to be heavily torqued. Does anybody think hand tight would work safely? Might not need the tools to change in the field. I don't know, thinking aloud.

Jason. As far as tightening the barrel nut, run it up snug with the wrench, then give it a "lite rap". Then check the head space again. Don't need to try and brake it off.
I just pulled the barrel off of mine and it came off pretty easy. It was "snug" but not over tight! I have had it off 2 or 3 times.
I have a action wrench, just in case, but don't use it. Never needed to so far! HTH. Mike.

Have been playing with switch (swap) barrel rifles for 30+ years. Have had them built on Remingtons, Weatherbys, Rugers, Sakos, Montanas, etc. Some of these, especially John Dustin built ones, can be changed in the field in under 5 minutes, probably 3 minutes.

Savage is the easiest one and cheapest one. Fifteen minutes to change a Savage is plenty of time.

With a detachable scope system, a really good scope, a good bedding job, and a little record keeping, might be surprised how repeatable the scope settings will be between changing barrels. For varmints and long range competition probably will need sighters, but on big game or plinking, might not put a round down range. Again, got to know the rifle well because don't ever want to be party to carelessly wounding an animal.

The economics of a swap barrel rifle are totally illusionary, just like the economics of handloading ammunition. Once you become addicted you keep adding barrels and the total expenditure far exceeds your original needs.

http://forums.sixgunner.com/One_example_of_reloading_setup/m_27446/tm.htm





This Savage has a total of five bolts ready-to-go, five scopes, two stocks, etc.




Last count had over 75 barrels, but I'm not a good counter.



Hammer

quote:

Originally posted by Hammer:
Have been playing with switch (swap) barrel rifles for 30+ years. Last count had over 75 barrels, but I'm not a good counter.Hammer

Wow! You certainly are a step or two ahead of me. roger

One question on swap barrel rifles is...

What is the best scope and detachable scope mounting system ?

Ya'll's thoughts much appreciated.

Hammer

Hammer,
You are continuing to amaze me with your obsessive over zealotry for the shooting hobby.
I'm glad someone is more nuts than me
And getting 6,000+ hits!

Do you know the ratio of transmitted to reflected sound at 1 kHz with the sound absorbent material in you building sound suppresser?
10 kHz?

I have 50 scopes and 100 rifles that play musical scopes.
I standardized on Weaver rings.
I have been glass bedding the mounts to the receivers in an aligned way.
That way the rings do not need lapping, and scopes can move from rifle to rifle without getting in a bind.
The front ring typically is far forward, stays put, and rotated correctly for alignment with the cross hairs.
The rear ring is loosened from the scope and is only tightened to the scope after the front and rear ring are tight to the mounts.

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
Hammer,
You are continuing to amaze me with your obsessive over zealotry for the shooting hobby.
I'm glad someone is more nuts than me.

Uhh---No! you're still in first place. roger

My take on the Savage/Stevens is that for the price of a used rifle you can have a new rifle.
Even less if you choose the stevens 200 becase they usually retail for $250+/-$10 and for another $80-$120
and an $18 wrench you cna have an additional caliber.

I'm not into having a dozen barrels for a rifle in wildcat calibers, but having ONE a "spare rifle" that can quickly be changed to backup several different rifles...

I'm one of those people who likes having a spare.

So I wouldn't need seperate "backups" to my 30-06,
my 25-06 or for my brothers pet 270.

Allowing a scope choice appropriate to all uses
say... a 4-12x40? and that all three calibers use the same headspace guage... (and so does the 35Whelen for that matter) it makes a slick convienient backup set....

The same can be said for 243Win, 260Rem, 7mm-08Rem, 308Win and 358Win in the short action rifles.

And if you switch from a 308-sibling to 22-250 the feed issues are minor.

Also 17Rem, 204Ruger, 222, 223, 6x45, 6x47,
30Wisper, 30 Apache, etc...

Switching bolts (or switching the bold heads)
for different case head is IMO getting a bit involved for switching on a rifle that costs $250(for the Stevens200 anyway) new in the box....

AllanD

quote:

I don't tink these barrel nuts need to be heavily torqued. Does anybody think hand tight would work safely? Might not need the tools to change in the field. I don't know, thinking aloud.

Jason and Nor Cal Mikie,

Be careful there. It depends on the caliber you are shooting. The smaller caliber barrels will not need to be heavily torqued, but my buddy and I had problems with a 300 and a 338 RUM that would loosen the barrel in two rounds.

I am guessing the heavier bullets are placing some pretty good torque on the barrel.

Jim

pdhntr1: With my switch barrel rigs, I'am working with .221 and .223. But I do know what you mean. A heavy caliber could be more of a problem with the "nut torque"! A friend did a switch on a 30.06 to .308. I'll have to ask him just how tight he did the nut on his. None of mine have had any problems with the nut backing off. But like you said, a lighter caliber might make a difference. Good thinking on your part!
One thing that comes to mind. Someone posted about putting a "washer" between the barrel and the action face? ( I think thats what was said) I wonder what was the reasoning behind that. The recoil lug does the same thing. Right??

He was probably talking about a custom recoil washer (ie lug). Sharp Shooter Supply and others make a precision cut and ground recoil lug to replace the stamped factory one.

The spec I use is 30-35 lbs-ft for the barrel nut which is just a light grunt by hand for a 12" long wrench. Don't spot torque it. (Pull so hard that you see spots) It doesn't need to be that tight. I see more and more benchrest gunsmith saying just install barrels snug on all actions to keep from stressing the front receiver ring.

Why try to get rid of all stress in the barrels and actions and take all the time straightening everything if you're going to try torquing the barrel on to 100 Lbs-ft?