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I use soapy water warm or room temp, dawn is best soap..when clean I use scalding hot wash that drys in a hurry..then oil for storage..I use two big ole coffee cans one soapy water and the other the scalding hot wash..and using a snug patch on a rod and pump the water in and out..If someone has not used the pump method nor even heard of it, they gotta be a shut in or just plain slow learning.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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one of us |
I have shot these for over 20 years. I run a loop end on a rod down the barrel and the insert a 3 inch patch. I soak this with vinegar Windex and thoroughly run it up and down the barrel. Then I take a 3 inch patch over a snug fitting jag and push it all out. It’s basically clean but I generally repeat that process. Then a soaked Cleansoil patch and then a dry to get rid of the excess oil. All done. Very easy. RC Repeal the Hughes Amendment. | |||
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One of Us |
Horsefly method with moose milk, but no dry patch. Dependent on whether fouling has dried hard. A damp patch after the last shot with moose milk will soften the BP fouling. I use Young's 303, a British oil. A light moose milk patch will remove most/all of fouling leaving a a bit of oily residue to discourage any immediate corrosion. Dry patch repeat through bore, then coat bore with a light patch of quality light gun oil. The original Sharps cleaning care recommended a light coat of oil. Whether a light patch of moose milk first is not mentioned. Avatar | |||
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One of Us |
Not nearly as experienced as some with BP. But dumping boiling water down the bore (one teapot full) and then a bronze brushing then some warm soapy water patches took less time and effort than the smokeless stuff did. The cases were nicely cleaned brass. After hot soapy water, they look quite a bit like old dirty cases afterwards. Maybe I need to add some vinegar to that. Of course it polished up just fine… | |||
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