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Whats best for sharpening D2?
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I bought a dandy little knife at a gun show. Its razor snarp and is hand made from D2 steel. He showed me what he uses to sharpen his knives and to be honest I've forgot what the hell it was. I think he said the ceramic V bars worked but the gadget he was using looked like a flat steel hook sharpener. He swore by it. He said don't bother using a kitchen knife type of steel. D2 is too hard for that.

Any suggestions?


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Posts: 4326 | Location: Under the North Star! | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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The best tool I have found to use in the field is an Eze-Lap model M. This is a 3 1/4" x 1/4" diamond coated steel rod that has a brass screw on handle and also stores the rod inside. It comes complete with a leather belt sheath. Retails for $19.95 USD. I have used the same one for over 25 years. Use light pressure for maintaining an edge is the key. Don't wait until the knife needs to be warmed up to cut butter before honing. This is my all time favorite steel and I have used it for over 25 years as my favorite steel when I custom make a knife.
If you do get it dull, you can use the eze-lap to get it back to an usable edge in the field. However, a good set of stones is the best approach once it makes it back home.
Good Luck


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Posts: 453 | Location: Louisiana by way of Alaska | Registered: 02 November 2004Reply With Quote
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I've had the exact same experience with my Eze-lap !!D2 can be used with a butcher's steel but that's for touch up.Other than diamond there are some nice ceramic stones, lots of choice. I've never used any of the gadgets ,the sharpening 'systems'.I do fine with stones or rods.
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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I'll keep my eye open for an model M.

Thanks


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Posts: 4326 | Location: Under the North Star! | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Any good sharpener should work...but it probably wears out stones faster that many steels. I use diamond sticks for field touchups...I think mine is by DMT, and a benchtop 'stone' for serious work.


Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
 
Posts: 1780 | Location: South Texas, U. S. A. | Registered: 22 January 2004Reply With Quote
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The best currently available stones for D-2 and any other steel are the Shapton Professional series.

http://www.shaptonstones.com/

They aren't cheap but they are the best. I beleive that Toolsforworkingwood.com has them available in a set of 1000,5000 and 15000 grit as a set that will save you a little bit.
If you haven't ever tried a good set of waterstones you are really missing something..........DJ


....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!..................
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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I picked up a EZ-Lap model M. I've seen these around for years but when it was suggested I get one I couldnt match the name in my mind.

I gave a crappy knife some swipes on it and it works well. One question though. They suggest using the circular motion for touching up the edge. I've not had great success with that methode. How do you use you model M? Like a normal steel with the straight swipes on each side or how they suggest. Never been good at both to tell you the truth. bewildered


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Posts: 4326 | Location: Under the North Star! | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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I take the Eze-Lap in my left hand, knife in right hand. I start the blade at the back near the guard and make an arc similar to the letter "C" ending up at the blade tip on each stroke!!. Try and make a "C" motion or half of a curve.The Blades edge is where you want the blade on the rod. Start with light "c" motion strokes. For more aggressive sharpening apply more pressure with the knife on the rod (Carefully, you can slice the devil out of a hand or finger holding the Eze-Lap if you get complacent or in-attentive). If you have a problem aligning the edge on the rod, then take a black magic marker and coat from the edge up to an 1/8" or so towards the spine. Subsequent strokes will reveal where or if you are on the edge where you want to be. As the knife starts to show an edge improvement, continue with lighter and lighter pressure on the edge. The final strokes with an slightly higher angle and light pressure will bring it to the degree of sharpness you are trying to achieve.
If your diamond rod gets loaded with metal from the knife. Take a wet SOS pad and scrub it in length long strokes. Finally cleaning the rod with a dry paper towel. The more the rod is used and cleaned the better it gets as it exposes more diamond micro surfaces! Good Luck and let me know how it is progressing!


Focus on the leading edge!
 
Posts: 453 | Location: Louisiana by way of Alaska | Registered: 02 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks alot. I've pretty much done it that way usually. Since you mentioned the possibility of slicing your hand, I'll assume you are arcing it with the blade facing to you? I've been in the habbit of doing it away.


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Posts: 4326 | Location: Under the North Star! | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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