Well I went and did it. I managed to bust my new stock on the very first shot.

While I was deployed to Iraq I did some stock finishing in my down time. It was a great stress reliever and I accomplished something in the process. I picked up a brand new take off CZ American Safari stock for my 458 WM. I added and ebony tip and grip cap as well as reshaped the cheekpiece and some other touch ups.

Last week I full length glass bedded the barreled action and relieved the rear tang.

Then this morning I had a little free time so a buddy and me snuck off to the range and on the very 1st shot the stock split in the mag box area!!!!! I attached some before and after pics.















My best guess is that the wood was just weak through that area.

If anyone has a CZ take off available at a reasonable price I would appreciate hearing about it.

quote:

If anyone has a CZ take off available at a reasonable price I would appreciate hearing about it.

Sorry to hear that. You might check with Bitterroot.

Sadly it is a common fault with all the major rifle makers.

In the last 4 years I have kept count.

9 CZ's in 416 and up have split their stocks exactly where yours has during the course of the safari.

4 Sako's (.375 and up)

2 Winchesters (a 416 and a .458)

Many others comented that they had previously split a stock and replaced it and had it properly pinned and bedded the next time arround or had properly repaired the crack and bedded the stock.

In my limited experience, a properly pinned and bedded repaired stock is no worse off than a new one that you have cross bolted, pinned and bedded. Just fix it properly and it will be stronger than you need

P.M. sent about replacement... My treat.

Keep your stock,it is already full of memories.Get it professionaly repaired and go hunting.It will allways make for a conversation topic round the camp fire.

quote:

In my limited experience, a properly pinned and bedded repaired stock is no worse off than a new one that you have cross bolted, pinned and bedded. Just fix it properly and it will be stronger than you need

quote:

Get it professionaly repaired and go hunting.

Yo Tanker Buddy,

While JudgeG obviously has something in store for you too; I consider Ganyana's & wombat's advise sound. I've seen professionally repaired stocks that have been excellently repaired and they are probably much stronger in the repaired area than originally.

Tanker Man,

Aw Shit!!!! What a lousy break.

Your stock work looked great, which of course makes it hurt that much more.

Am awfully glad that the Good Judge G is taking an interest.

and BTW: Thank you for your service!

Needless to say I was not exactly happy to have my stock come apart - especially on the very 1st shot. I have pondered over this stock and what would be the best route to go with it. Because of the location of the break - and the multiple cracks - I dont think repair is an option. The wood is toon thin through that area to run a pin through the break. There are 3 cracks that run clear through the mag box area and run the entire length of the mag box.

Thanks to JudgeG I should be well taken care of. If nothing else, I learned a great deal in doing the shaping and finishing of the stock.

Sorry to hear about the stock, it looked awesome. I especially admire your pancake cheekpiece with shadow line - I wish I could do that level of craftsmanship.

dang it

Nice job on the stock...seems a waste to not try to fix it.

There is an adhesive used in the woodworking trade for repairing cracks...don't know the name but it is listed in most woodworking supply catalogs...it is very thin and designed for capillary action and will creep into even the smallest crack...you might try it...I've used Epoxy thinned out and injected into cracks...Brownells has some nice syringes that work great.

I also had a Savage laminated stock crack through the action screws...I figured it was toast but just for kicks I cut out some 0.030" steel "shim plates" to fit inside the mag box, all sides and bottom and steel bedded them in...I also thinned out some epoxy and forced it through all the cracks I could find, made another recoil block, added a piece of 5/16" althread set in a groove up the barrel channel and generally bedded or blocked everywhere that looked like it could be weak including replacing the pillers with larger diameter ones...

After cleanup it didn't look too bad and you couldn't see it from outside except for the crack through the bottom that had widened out to about 1/16"...I didn't color the steel bedding so there is a grey line showing. Doesn't bother me and didn't seem to bother the elk or the squirrels I plonked with it.

I've since put about 200 rounds of heavy loaded 260-300 gr bullets through it without any apparant problems...but with a laminated stock you never know until it comes apart.

After that experience I won't use laminates for anything above 30 cal.

Luck on your projects.

I wonder if this is one of the early CZ safari guns. I just looked at a USED CZ in 505 gibbs and it did not have any cross bolts. My CZ in 505 has two cross bolts, bedding and mercury reducers. I also saw a NEW CZ550 in 458 win mag at the same shop. The new 458 had dual cross bolts.

Looks like a stock splitting problem in the early guns has resulted in improvements.

If you dont have the new system, perhaps you can upgrade.

EDIT: This post did not make sense, because my browser (Mozilla) does not display M1Tanker photos. I resorted to viewing the code and pasting the links and then able too see cross bolts.

One suggestion for the next stock: shoot it first before putting a lot of work into it, just in case

quote:

Originally posted by Fjold:
One suggestion for the next stock: shoot it first before putting a lot of work into it, just in case

After this mess I pretty much came to the same conclusion. Shooting it first would have saved me a LOT of work. but the good part is that I learned a lot shaping the stock and can apply that to the next one I do.

I had a featherweight do the same thing, but when i was removing it from the bedding.. i was VERY happy it did it in the reloading room, and not at the bench.

no, i wasn't wailing on it ..

Don't feel too bad, Tanker.

I have just begun work refinishing a stock that was already cracked in the web behind the magazine box and otherwise scarred up, chipped and dinged to a fare thee well!

Of course, part of that process is repairing the crack and cleaning up the scars, chips and dings!

My stock is over 100 years old and before I began my work it really showed it. Still, I hope to make that old stock work as well as it did when the German gunsmith who made it first turned it out.

In your case, I think I would try a repair. You have a very good-looking stock there, and your rework made it even better. Epoxy resin properly applied could do the trick.

I have considered repairing the stock. But I worry about it being able to take the recoil of a full house 500gr load. I was shooting a moderate 350gr load when it came apart.

Being the sidewall of the magazine box area I dont have much thickness to work with which rules out any type of pinning or reinforcement. And since that area takes the full recoil force I question whether an epoxy joint would be enough for that situation.

quote:

Originally posted by Charles_Helm:

quote:

If anyone has a CZ take off available at a reasonable price I would appreciate hearing about it.

Sorry to hear that. You might check with Bitterroot.

Charles has a good idea. The last time I heard, Bitteroot was going to use some as fire wood because he had so many CZ take-off's. For a Vet---he'd probably give one away

Sorry to hear about your stock, you did a beautiful job on it. I'd send it to AHR, get it repaired and have them rebed it and put an extra recoil lug on it. I sent them my CZ 375 H&H for their #1 upgrade, they recommended bedding and an extra recoil lug even though my 375 was dual crossbolted at the factory. I went with it. They did a beautiful job and it was well worth it.

Best of luck with it,

Chuck

Some of the CZ stocks have internal crossbolts, so you can't always tell from looking at the outside if it is or isn't bolted.

Tanker, sorry to hear about your dilemma after such a great job on your part.

Larry Sellers
SCI Life Member

quote:

Originally posted by fourbore:
I wonder if this is one of the early CZ safari guns. I just looked at a USED CZ in 505 gibbs and it did not have any cross bolts. My CZ in 505 has two cross bolts, bedding and mercury reducers. I also saw a NEW CZ550 in 458 win mag at the same shop. The new 458 had dual cross bolts.

Looks like a stock splitting problem in the early guns has resulted in improvements.

If you dont have the new system, perhaps you can upgrade.

EDIT: This post did not make sense, because my browser (Mozilla) does not display M1Tanker photos. I resorted to viewing the code and pasting the links and then able too see cross bolts.

just curious,wass this shot from the shoulder or a sled.

This stock had everything done right - dual crossbolts, recoild lug on barrel, relieved rear tang, barrel full length bedded. All the above did not help it a bit when it cracked in the mag box area. I am absolutely convinced it was a weak spot in the wood.

In regards to Bwananelson's question - I fired it from the shoulder. I would imagine that the situation could have been quite dramatic if it had of happened in a sled.

I would just fix it and shoot it, unless you end up with a super deal on another one.

I have not ever split a laminate stock, just a consideration. I know a couple outfits make laminate stocks for them.

Tanker,

A layer of fiberglass fabric can be bedded into the sides of the magazine mortise. After the crack is epoxy repaired the fiberglass can be applied to the entire mortise. A bit of judicious filing may be needed for mag box clearance. I've done this to my CZ .458, as well as extensive glass bedding with internal crossbolts. 500 rounds now with no problem. It could be fixed if really want to save that stock.

that stock is toast, guys... i wouldn't shoot a 375 in one radially broken... sorry Will