I have just about given up hope on buying a left handed Zastava Mauser in 458 Win.

I was looking at my LH Ruger MKII (Stainless with the laminate stock) and thinking about turning it into a 416 Ruger.

It seems to me that a re-barrel with sights is all that's needed. Should I add a second recoil lug?


What's a good source for a 416 caliber, stainless barrel?


What contour for a 24" barrel? I would rather have it heavier than lighter as I enjoy shooting my rifles, not just carrying them.

Doing that would make a fine LH 416. I might be just as cost effective to purchase a LH 375 and a RH 416 and switch barrles and sell the RH rifle.

Pac-Nor Barreling would have your biggest selection:
http://www.pac-nor.com/barrels/
Their prices are in line with everyone else.

mcgowen precision - pac-nor isn't doing all the work inhouse anymore.. and yes, its just a rebarrel .. the 416 ruger obviates my 416 accrel..

no need for a 3rd lug.. bed it, though

Would a 24", 1:14" twist, with a .750" diameter at the muzzle work?

WAY too heavy...
.416" + .200 if you can get that, +.250 max, .666!!!

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
WAY too heavy...
.416" + .200 if you can get that, +.250 max, .666!!!

So a number 4 contour that finishes at .650" would work. I do notice that some barrel makers won't chamber .416 barrels below a .700" diameter.

I have a Kreiger barrel on my .416 Ruger.

quote:

Originally posted by PC:
I have a Kreiger barrel on my .416 Ruger.

I love Krieger barrels on my match guns. Looking on their site, they won't make a .416 barrel smaller than .750" in Stainless and .700" in CM

Shorten the barrel- 20 in is plenty for a 416. Real handy in brush also and you really dont lose much out at 200 yds.

SSR

Build 2 different 416 Rugers - one on a Rem 700, the other on a NH M70 Classic. Rem has a #4, M70 has a #5. Both are 23 1/2" barrels. Personally I like the weight and balance of the M70 w/ #5.

I like the way that my NH Model 70 hangs with the 24" barrel that's .720" at the muzzle.

Since the .416 has a .041 larger bore a muzzle diameter of .760 would be the same weight.

[/QUOTE]

I love Krieger barrels on my match guns. Looking on their site, they won't make a .416 barrel smaller than .750" in Stainless and .700" in CM[/QUOTE]

That sounds right Im sure mine stainless....I have mine cut to 21.5" and then a 3 port DE break added. Recoil is fine, the gun is probably a pound heaviver than I imgained it might turn out, but no matter its pleasant to shoot and recoil is fine. I dont really notice that pound when walking but I kind of keep reasonably fit which helps I think.

I converted a Ruger M77 mkII in .300 Win Mag to my .395 Max (.375 Ruger case). I went with the #4 contour barrel of McGowen which is a little different from the norm, but still lighter than a #5. Barrel length is 22". I really like it and the way it handles. May I suggest, though, that you do initially have the barrel 24" and see how you like it. You may then shorten it to whatever, if you decide to.
Another item. If you plan on shooting mostly monometal bullets, you may want to put a 1-12 twist rather than a 1-14 twist. The stabilization really helps with the longer mono bullets.
Max

quote:

Originally posted by prof242:
I converted a Ruger M77 mkII in .300 Win Mag to my .395 Max (.375 Ruger case). I went with the #4 contour barrel of McGowen which is a little different from the norm, but still lighter than a #5. Barrel length is 22". I really like it and the way it handles. May I suggest, though, that you do initially have the barrel 24" and see how you like it. You may then shorten it to whatever, if you decide to.
Another item. If you plan on shooting mostly monometal bullets, you may want to put a 1-12 twist rather than a 1-14 twist. The stabilization really helps with the longer mono bullets.
Max

Thanks Prof, that's a good idea. I do like the monometal bullets.

I know this is probably sacrilegious but does anyone make something similare to the NECG Universal front sight band in stainless that would take a blue steel insert?

And since I'm being gauche enough to want the SS front sight band, does anyone make a stainless rear sight base that would take a blue blade insert?

Consider the projectiles you want to shoot. There are some really great 400+ weight bullets for the 416. You may want a 1 in 12 twist.

Woody at Lothar Walthar copied my Holland and Holland .375 barrel and its perfect for the 416 Ruger, and will give you a 8-3/4 lb. rifle or there abouts depending on wood...Scope it and you have a 9-3/4 pound rifle..I have built a couple of 416 Rugers on Mauser actions and one 404/375 Ruger. A really nice cartridge case to build a rifle on and it can be necked up or down.

Barrel length is a personal thing, I got an easy 2400 to 2450 with a 24 inch barrel and 2350 to 2400 with the 20 inch barrel in the two .416 Rugers I built..Chronographed 10 shots taking out the high and low and averaging 8..
The 404 Ruger had a 26 inch barrel that chronographed 2633 (most accurate), then cut to 24 inches and that got me 2500 plus a tad; I settled on the magic 2400 FPS, second best accuracy for the recommended hunting load to the customer as I recall..

I can't think of a better DG rifle btw.

458 Offered you a smart option above. switch barrels and sell the other one.

Also, you might consider a re-bore for about $250. I have looked into reboreing lately and have a .404 coming..Apparantly they have now got the re-boring right and good things are coming about, with those cut rifled barrels which only makes since. For many years it was a crap shoot on a rebore, but today its looking up it seems.