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I have a CZ 550 in .458 Lott that I bought 5+ years ago new. I had all the intentions of doing the standard CZ improvements when I bought it. Re finish the stock, add cross bolts, wrist pin, barrel band, new front sight, etc. The gun was fired a few times and then taken to an area gunsmith to start on the project. After many, many months in his shop and only the bedding of the action performed I realized this had gotten over his head. And I got the rifle back and it has been in my safe ever since. Just sitting there.

That is until three nights ago. I took the whole thing apart. I probably will never get it all back together. I started stripping the finish and I am going to use tru oil to refinish it. I have drilled the hole for the threaded rod to reinforce the wrist area of the stock. I only have to epoxy it in place. I am going to try and get some things done myself then send it out to another gunsmith for the metal work.

I know there is a decent looking rifle there in all of those parts somewhere. Any tips for a wannabe home gunsmith for this CZ.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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best of luck
if you can't get the trigger together, timney makes a simpler replacement


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40106 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Re finish the stock, add cross bolts, wrist pin, barrel band, new front sight, etc.


Sounds like what I did. Metal work is done by Wayne at AHR. The stock is done by me.



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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Looks good. I hope I can make mine look half that good.

Just epoxied Threaded rod in place. Sorry for Iphone pics.


 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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please use marinetex grey for the rest .. jb weld is brittle.. though i have used megastick for spot bedding


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40106 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Thank you Jeffeosso for the info. That was the only part I will be putting in that way.

Luckily for me the only thing my former gunsmith completed was the bedding, what it was done with I am not sure but it was not JB weld. He bed the action and the metal piece that goes with the CZ barrel like so.



I hope I dont have to grind all this out and start over.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Can I have the crossbolts installed now that the bedding has been done. Does it all need to come out and start over?
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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When the barrel and action are beded they are suppost fit real tight. I wouldn't remove it.
 
Posts: 2209 | Location: Delaware | Registered: 20 December 2002Reply With Quote
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I think you would be okay to install (external) crossbolts though as they go from one side of the stock to the other, not actually through the bedding (just under it). A Lott needs some form of reinforcements, not to mention if the stock cracks now, CZ is not going to replace it since you've "tinkered" with it.


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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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A Lott needs some form of reinforcements, not to mention if the stock cracks now, CZ is not going to replace it since you've "tinkered" with it.


I thought as soon as I painted the first coat of chemical stripper on. Boy did I screw up. I am never going to make this thing look decent. How much is one of there replacement Kevlar stocks?
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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I dont think you screwed up yet. The bedding is done. I never tired this, but I think brownell, and others sell cross bolts.
 
Posts: 1226 | Location: New England  | Registered: 19 February 2009Reply With Quote
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Ahlmans in MN are fast at installing cross bolts. Probably will run you around $100 if they supply and install. http://www.ahlmans.com/ (507)685-4243


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Posts: 1631 | Location: Potter County, Pennsylvania | Registered: 22 June 2005Reply With Quote
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300,

You didn't screw up! The crossbolts are their own seperate entity to reinforcing the stock, same as the wrist pin. Unless you wanted internal crossbolts (which are infused within the bedding itself), you're fine to install external crossbolts (which are what most rifles have, including mine above). The crossbolt runs through the wood section just forward and behind the magazine box. A hole is drilled from the left side of the rifle to the right to accommodate the crossbolt. You can either buy some crossbolts from Brownells or make your own crossbolts using threaded rod and some nuts (the latter method requires you sink the crossbotls and cover them with black epoxy or wood plug of some sort).

The crossbolts are there to provide support, similar to how the wrist pin works. When you fire the rifle, the recoil you feel goes through the stock first. This causes the rifle to flex, mainly at the points where the action is in the stock. The crossbolts are there to prevent the stock from rippling every time you pull the trigger since the metal crossbolts are stronger than the wood and make the stock more rigid.

Just make sure you use a drill press or a crossbolt installation jig otherwise your holes will not be symmetrical. Stocks take time to make, just be patient and take your time. CZ have very bulky stocks, so you have plenty to work with.


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2018 Zimbabwe - Tuskless w/ Nengasha Safaris
2011 Mozambique - Buffalo w/ Mashambanzou Safaris
 
Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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The chemical stripper does look ugly but just make sure you wash it all off properly and dry the stock before sanding (which will take off most of the strpper anyway).

Then once sandind is complete apply the finish of your choice.

If you have not done this before practise on an old stock or piece of 2"x 4" lumber. You can also prectise drilling and fitting the crossbolts. It is quite easy and the satisfaction in doing it yourself is very rewarding.
 
Posts: 1433 | Location: Australia | Registered: 21 March 2008Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Code4:
The chemical stripper does look ugly but just make sure you wash it all off properly and dry the stock before sanding (which will take off most of the strpper anyway).

Then once sanding is complete apply the finish of your choice.

If you have not done this before practise on an old stock or piece of 2"x 4" lumber. You can also practise drilling and fitting the crossbolts. It is quite easy and the satisfaction in doing it yourself is very rewarding.
 
Posts: 1433 | Location: Australia | Registered: 21 March 2008Reply With Quote
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Thank you all for the information so far. I have a stupid question but I really do not know the answer. If you are using the external crossbolts, say for example the ones with the spanner caps like the talleys. Are they able to come out of the gun or are they epoxied in place?

I know the type where the cap is covered with epoxy are probably epoxied in place but what about the spanner type.

Also do you apply the same finish over top of the spanner caps as you finish the stock or do you put the spanner caps on after the rifle is completely refinished. Please be aware this is a learning exercise for me.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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There is a jig available from Brownells that lets you drill the crossbolt holes STRAIGHT. Dont try and do this on your drill pressor with the ol Black and Decker as I almost guarantee you it will come out crooked. Drill half way on each side then reverse so you dont tear out the wood. I re-finish the gun being careful to not round over the cross bolt holes, then add the crossbolts last. If you dont, you will mar their blue while steel wooling the stock.


Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers to do incredibly stupid things- AH (1941)- Harry Reid (aka Smeagle) 2012
Nothing Up my sleeves but never without a plan and never ever without a surprise!
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
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I am planning on going with the following products to refinish the stock. They seem to be easy to use for what I am doing.







Thank you Robgunbuilder. I was wondering if that jig would work.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Apparently after more research the bedding job done by my former gunsmith is not adequate. The front part of the action was done but not the back part. But most importantly the tang area was not relieved and bedded.

I myself installed my home made wrist pin with threaded rod in this area.

So my question is do I need to grind some of the wood out of this area and apply bedding compound and do this area to prevent the stock from cracking. Picture below.



Opinions please, thank you?
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Put the bededing on the bottom of the action, only, on the rear tang for a bigbore .. there should be a slight gap at the rear


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40106 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by jeffeosso:
Put the bededing on the bottom of the action, only, on the rear tang for a bigbore .. there should be a slight gap at the rear


Thank you for your reply. So it is ok like it is. I just need to make sure there is a slight gap at the rear tang and if there is not I need to remove a little wood to make that gap.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Thank you for your reply. So it is ok like it is. I just need to make sure there is a slight gap at the rear tang and if there is not I need to remove a little wood to make that gap.


You need to put the action in the stock and see if you can get a piece of paper or two in the gap in the tang. If you can, than you're good, if not, sand a little out. The gap is there to provide a little running room for the action so it doesn't pound the stock every time you pull the trigger. Where you want the action to fit nice and tight is behind the front recoil lug on the action.


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If you died tomorrow, what would you have done today ...

2018 Zimbabwe - Tuskless w/ Nengasha Safaris
2011 Mozambique - Buffalo w/ Mashambanzou Safaris
 
Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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[/QUOTE]You need to put the action in the stock and see if you can get a piece of paper or two in the gap in the tang. If you can, than you're good, if not, sand a little out. The gap is there to provide a little running room for the action so it doesn't pound the stock every time you pull the trigger. Where you want the action to fit nice and tight is behind the front recoil lug on the action.[/QUOTE]

Thank you, that does clarify about the tang area. No work on it today but will get back on it tomorrow.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Anybody know the appropriate torque value for the crossbolts?
 
Posts: 264 | Location: Grand Prairie, TX, USA | Registered: 17 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Been working on the stock. Sanding last of the finish off that the stripper would not remove. Been using 150 grit paper then I will work my way to finer grit. I have been careful around the checkering as best I can.
It doesent look as bad as I thought it would.

Started filling the hole at the front left over from the removal of the sling swivel stud. Going to go back with a barrel band.


I debated alot of ways to fill the hole. I thought of a walnut or ebony dowel but due to difficulty in finding them I decided against this early on. I thought of a copper pin epoxied in place but eventually I just decided on plain black epoxy.

I was unable to find any black epoxy so I mixed some black rit dye powder in with the epoxy. In my test hole it turned out ok so I decided to do it on the stock.

I am letting it set up and will sand and fill again if needed, which I am sure it will. I know it looks awful messy.

Any helpful information is appreciated. Thanks
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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When you get around to bedding the rear of the action pay particular attention to the web of wood between the mag well and the trigger mortise. Cracks generally start there before they show up at the tang. It's the appropriate place for a cross bolt, and some bedding compound on that narrow web of wood is good insurance as well.

I did the same improvements that you are going through some years back, and really enjoyed working on the CZ. Hope you're having fun with it! George
 
Posts: 135 | Location: Colorado Mtns. | Registered: 07 November 2004Reply With Quote
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300,

In addition to the structural reinforcements you have planned, are you planning to do anything like reshape the forend/cheekpiece or add a grip cap?

Project is looking great so far!


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2018 Zimbabwe - Tuskless w/ Nengasha Safaris
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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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The plan is to add a grip cap. It may not get done. I have tried to locate one that would not require allot of work to fit yet not look out of place. My wood working skills are minimal.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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The plan is to add a grip cap. It may not get done. I have tried to locate one that would not require allot of work to fit yet not look out of place.


You could always make one using a piece of wood (ebony, redwood, rosewood, etc). Just cut it roughly to size, epoxy it on, and sand to fit.

A wood rasp works great too just in case you get the itch to re-shape the forend. Wink


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If you died tomorrow, what would you have done today ...

2018 Zimbabwe - Tuskless w/ Nengasha Safaris
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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Sevens:
quote:
The plan is to add a grip cap. It may not get done. I have tried to locate one that would not require allot of work to fit yet not look out of place.


You could always make one using a piece of wood (ebony, redwood, rosewood, etc). Just cut it roughly to size, epoxy it on, and sand to fit.

A wood rasp works great too just in case you get the itch to re-shape the forend. Wink


That is true. I had not thought of a wood grip cap.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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That is true. I had not thought of a wood grip cap.


The rifle I've got pictured above has a redwood burl grip cap and forend tip (from Brownells). It was a whole lot easier to do than the metal grip caps.


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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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WOW! One of those exceedingly rare AR thread topics that I actually know something about: wood. Grew up in the architectural millwork business. There are NO mistakes that either I have made myself, or seen made. Often both.

You have received excellent advice on this thread, perhaps the best being "don't get in a hurry." Sanding around existing checkering, for example: 'tain't easy, without jigs.

Only thing to add - and I am wearing my flame-proof stuff - is this: w could all save ourselves a world of worry, hassle, and time by using high-quality laminated stocks. The basic technology has been around since time out of nind, and modern adhesives have improved it. Works.

Have fun with this. So far: good on 'ya.
 
Posts: 490 | Location: middle tennessee | Registered: 11 November 2009Reply With Quote
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As I look at the stock today thinking about the cross bolts. I am curious. The rear cross bolt is supposed to go thru this tiny web of wood? I feel me drilling a hole in it is enough to cause it to split. Is this the correct area? If so there is very little to work with here.



Any thoughts?
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by 300magman:
As I look at the stock today thinking about the cross bolts. I am curious. The rear cross bolt is supposed to go thru this tiny web of wood? I feel me drilling a hole in it is enough to cause it to split. Is this the correct area? If so there is very little to work with here.



Any thoughts?


Yes, strangely enough that is the area. Here's the crossbolt on mine and, as you can see the bolt doesn't fit in the wood all the way. What you can do (and what I did) is cover it in glass bed. Since glass bed is a type of epoxy it will grab on to the crossbolt and the wood and help to hold everything together. Remember, the purpose of the crossbolt is to prevent the wood from flexing.



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If you died tomorrow, what would you have done today ...

2018 Zimbabwe - Tuskless w/ Nengasha Safaris
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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Thank you very much for the picture. It is good to see it already done like that. When I was looking at my stock this am I thought this is crazy. There is no way i can get anything thru that small area. I thought CZ had done the inletting for the action wrong. But your picture certainly helps. Thanks again.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: Jackson, Miss | Registered: 12 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Easy gun to work on. If you blow it on the stock (or break one) the laminated stocks are available from CZ.
 
Posts: 265 | Registered: 09 July 2010Reply With Quote
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RDB,

check www.AmericanHuntingRifles.com out. Wayne Jacobson is THE acknowledged master of customizing CZs. He usually has a dozen to fifteen takeoff stocks on hand.

Rich
DRSS
 
Posts: 23062 | Location: SW Idaho | Registered: 19 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Yep I know Wayne and Ed.

I wasn't thinking another wood stock but the much better, IMO, factory laminates. Doubt you'll break one of those. And they are cheap in the grand scheme of things.
 
Posts: 265 | Registered: 09 July 2010Reply With Quote
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Between the wrist pin, crossbolts, and glass bedding the stock is fairly safe. No need to buy a laminate, IMO. Besides, laminates don't look as pretty.


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If you died tomorrow, what would you have done today ...

2018 Zimbabwe - Tuskless w/ Nengasha Safaris
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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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300Magnum..
Years ago I bought, I think, a Dressel's large grip cap from Brownells. The other day I put it on the end of the grip on my CZ 550 416 Rigby "American" style stock and it seems to be just about a perfect fit. Again, I am pretty sure it is Dressel's as I bought the largest grip cap that Brownells had at that time. You might want to try this before you do a wood one. If you want, I will send you some pics. I don't have it mounted yet as I am thinking of another stock and would sell the one currently on it.
 
Posts: 1676 | Location: Colorado, USA | Registered: 11 November 2002Reply With Quote
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