My 416 Rigby had a similar Kevlar stock and I just loved it. Sorry to let that rifle go.

Thanks for the info guys. I've only had one rifle with a laminated stock and it doesn't have much recoil, .350 RM. I guess I just never considered that they could potentially cause problems.

Here is another example of bedding the remnant recoil lug on the barrel of a factory CZ 550 Magnum in the "Aramid" stock:



Just discard the F Block used in the wood stocks.
Apply a dab of epoxy at the barrel recoil lug, then bed the primary recoil lug and the tang.
3 dabs of epoxy ought to do it all, simple as that.
Bottom metal should fit fine with no bedding on the underside of the stock.

Above stock was a new "Kevlar" (before they began calling it "Aramid") that was tried on a factory 404 Jeffery before it got re-barreled to .375/404 Jeffery using another Kevlar/Aramid stock.
It shot well enough with no bedding, as a drop-in fit.
I never even tried it after the barrel-lug-only bedding, before it got re-barreled.





I am going to use the above stock with 500 Mbogo No. 2 as it is a rifle so perfected otherwise, it needs a perfect stock to go with it.
The "dog nut" on the barrel of 500 Mbogo Numero Uno was left too big.

500 Mbogo No. 2 will be an easier fit, it has a soldered-on recoil lug that will hide easily:







Pac-Nor .510-caliber, 23"-long, 1:9" twist, stainless No. 6 sporter, shortened at both ends, it fits the "Aramid" barrel channel very nicely.



Wisner bottom metal that allows a wee bit more depth for easy 4-down of .416 Rigby case size:














Lapour safety:



Timney trigger:





4-leaf rear express sight:



Windowed hood and H&H pop-up moon bead on the banded front sight ramp, the small brass bead could use some polish:





Barrel-band sling stud:



This stock may be better with iron sights, OK with scope, it will not be used as firewood:



The Aramid might be better with scope (my primary sight), but still OK for me with iron sights (secondary).
I like the standard CZ bolt handle, no need for me to have it straightened and filled.
But it needs the perfect stock that I can use a slip-on pad with, for extra cushioning and proper LOP.
This should also protect well against extended pinky finger syndrome.

RIP

1. That hogback CZ stock is excellent for scopes because it keeps ones head just slightly more vertical, preventing eyebrow creases. Just a word to the wise. I have learned to greatly appreciate the CZ Euro stock.

2. The dopple of Epoxy in the Aramid barrel channel looks like it needs more anchoring than the epoxy itself. I would put something, anything, in the channel on the action side of the barrel lug so that the bedding doesn't rip loose. McGowen barrels told me that they have seen barrel epoxy jobs rip loose, but maybe that was on a smoother, plastic stock like the Hogues. they didn't say. My Hogue has always held up because it was anchored and reinforced back to the start of the barrel channel. I did that because of the McGowen advice/warning that the "barrel lug bedding won't hold."

I've cracked two laminate stocks but the Hogue stock still works as a backup, after I more slant in the wrist, avoiding the more vertical semi-pistol-grip positioning..

quote:

Originally posted by 416Tanzan:
RIP

1. That hogback CZ stock is excellent for scopes because it keeps ones head just slightly more vertical, preventing eyebrow creases. Just a word to the wise. I have learned to greatly appreciate the CZ Euro stock.

Well, I agree that the CZ hogback (Lux) walnut stock is a great compromise, which is why I have not seen fit to change an existing fully bedded Lux stock on one of my rifles until now.


2. The dopple of Epoxy in the Aramid barrel channel looks like it needs more anchoring than the epoxy itself.

Appearances can be deceiving.

I would put something, anything, in the channel on the action side of the barrel lug so that the bedding doesn't rip loose.

The Kevlar/Aramid stock actually has a very thick metal crossbar at the rear end of the barrel lug recess, molded into the stock.
This crossbar is integral to the full endoskeleton/chassis that goes from butt to forend tip.

McGowen barrels told me that they have seen barrel epoxy jobs rip loose, but maybe that was on a smoother, plastic stock like the Hogues. they didn't say. My Hogue has always held up because it was anchored and reinforced back to the start of the barrel channel. I did that because of the McGowen advice/warning that the "barrel lug bedding won't hold."

The only Hogue stocks I have seen had hollow plastic framework in the forearm, mostly air and thin plastic ribs. Indeed, that would need some major boat-building there to hold a recoil lug. The one I refer to has aluminum pillars for a Ruger .416 Ruger "Alaskan" stainless model.Weighed 2.5 pounds. There may be a full bedding block model Hogue, but does it have a full metal endoskelton from butt to forend tip like the CZ Kevlar/Aramid? If so, the forearm will be filled, not an exposed hollow plastic forearm of air.

I've cracked two laminate stocks but the Hogue stock still works as a backup, after I more slant in the wrist, avoiding the more vertical semi-pistol-grip positioning.

Hogues leave me cold with the tacky rubber outer cover that feels bulky and heavy in my hands. Sorry, not even I will put up with a Hogue rifle stock. Mine got switched to the Ruger canoe paddle stock on that .416 Ruger, and lost a pound by doing so. Went from 8.0 to 7.0 pounds.

Here is what my stock looked like after I used a wood chisel and hammer to get the "dopple" of epoxy off the aluminum crossbar built into the stock:



The bright white/silver area on the left side of the recess above is the metal crossbar. It was backing up the epoxy for the recoil lug.

The dark spot in the bottom of the recess is oil from the bottom of my 500 Mbogo barrel lug, marking where I started excavating to receive the new lug. I might find out how deep that crossbar goes and how wide it is, eventually.
It is substantial!
It is another bedding block in the forearm, with welded attachments to the primary one for the action.
Also note that the screw-in sling swivel stud is anchored in the metal endoskeleton too.
And we know from past Brockman sling base installations at the tip of the forend, there is metal there too.
Therefore, anchoring the recoil lug in the forearm of the Kevlar/Aramid stock makes it backed up by metal that reaches from butt to forend tip.
The metal extends around the lug recess in the forearm, both sides, maybe bottom of forearm too, in what kind of framework I do not know.
An X-ray of one of these ought to be similar to a B&C Medalist ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWjrmCzGRes



Says the stock chassis has bedding block welded to forend side bars and a bottom bar is welded to these where the sling stud screws in.
Also a "tube is welded to the rear of the bedding block and extends through the grip into the butt.

Those stocks are available for about $250.
The CZ Aramid stock costs more, has some extra features, like the welded-in cross bar for the secondary barrel recoil lug.
Still looking for that X-ray ...

An earlier question from this thread is now answered here:

http://forums.accuratereloadin...043/m/8571065412/p/1

quote:

Originally posted by FFemtRN5287:
RIP ... Were you also the gentleman who attached the 1913 rail bedded in the end of the stock for a QD light mount??

Not me, but I do have the same appreciation of FUNCTIONAL rifle beauty as he does.

Phil Shoemaker must be the guy:

That was certainly one of them, RIP. I recall there being a second that was inspired by Phil, also. I do really appreciate all of the photos on this thread. It's making me feel more and more like my 458 Lott deserves an aramid stock and a little going over by AHR, then some more range time! Just have to talk myself into shooting enough factory ammo to create some brass to load to (more) "sane" levels!

CZ-USA sent me an email saying some back-ordered item for the CZ 550 Magnum was back "in stock."
I guess they will be sold out again soon.
The Aramid is the uber stock.

NRA Life Benefactor

I think this is going to work just fine.
I sanded out the barrel channel enough to accept the No. 6 Pac-Nor contour, after I excavated for the recoil lug.
Surely I have voided any warranties on the stock if there are any.
But this "uber stock" is bullet proof.
JB Weld epoxy with a little black dye in it is what I used. That ought to stick to the chassis cross bar.
I will do the rest of the bedding in a second step: Tang, primary action lug, and the tip of the forend.
Then some spot sanding and touchup with an indelible black Sharpie marker to blend the showing epoxy into the black color of the uber stock.
The underside of the stock needs nothing done to it, either with the Wisner or the factory floor plate. I cannot improve anything there.
The barrel channel beyond the secondary recoil lug can be sanded out if it does not shoot well as full contact.

NRA Life Benefactor

quote:

Originally posted by RIP:
CZ-USA sent me an email saying some back-ordered item for the CZ 550 Magnum was back "in stock."
I guess they will be sold out again soon.
The Aramid is the uber stock.

NRA Life Benefactor

They always come back in stock at such inopportune times! I suppose I'll have to try again next round when perhaps I haven't just spent a whole bunch of gun money.

With the Aramid stock, I am going to shave off about 4 ounces versus the Lux hogback walnut.

500 Mbogo No. 2 is going to weigh 9.25 pounds.

378 Wby recoil discussion here

http://forums.accuratereloadin...4711043/m/7221075612

got me thinking of what constitutes "the next level" of recoil ...

500 Mbogo
9.25-pound rifle weight (CZ 550 Magnum with 23" barrel length and Aramid stock):


570-grain bullet weight, 9.25-pound rifle
Powder charge: 113.0 grains of Varget
MV = 2400 fps
Free Recoil Energy = 123.7 ft-lbs
Free Recoil Velocity = 29.3 fps

570-grain bullet weight, 9.25-pound rifle
Powder charge: 105.0 grains of Varget
MV = 2300 fps
Free Recoil Energy = 111.7 ft-lbs
Free Recoil Velocity = 27.9 fps

450-grain bullet weight, 9.25-pound rifle
Powder charge: 115.0 grains of Benchmark
MV = 2800 fps
Free Recoil Energy = 111.2 ft-lbs
Free Recoil Velocity = 27.8 fps

The last two loads above are almost identical in recoil energy and velocity.

Adding a scope will add back some weight and decrease recoil.
So will a reduced load, down to 500 Nitro Express levels.

Lessee, a 2.5x Leupold in CZ rings will add 0.75 pound, total rifle weight becomes 10.0 pounds:

570-grain bullet weight, 10.0-pound rifle
Powder charge: 96.0 grains of Varget
MV = 2150 fps
Free Recoil Energy = 89.2 ft-lbs
Free Recoil Velocity = 24.0 fps

450-grain bullet weight, 10.0-pound rifle
Powder charge: 105.0 grains of Benchmark
MV = 2600 fps
Free Recoil Energy = 87.8 ft-lbs
Free Recoil Velocity = 23.8 fps

Another pair of loads very similar in recoil, comfortable.
Now if they will shoot to a useful pair of points of impact with the same scope setting ...

Of course 416Tanzan can say his 500 ARN will do the same while burning less powder and producing less recoil ...
But my pressures are lower.




NRA Life Benefactor

I think JB Weld makes a fine epoxy for bedding a stock. Good working consistency that is in between that of Acraglas (liquid) and Acraglas Gel. Easy to work with.
Sets up pretty much in 4 hours, cures in 15 to 24 hours.

I had to bed 500 Mbogo No. 2 a third time because I didn't use enough epoxy on the second pour to fill around the primary action lug properly.
So I chiseled it out and tried again.
You gotta get sloppy and have some overflow onto your masking tape.

There are three different shades of JB Weld here, ran out of black dye on the last one. That one is around the primary action lug,
but it has not been sanded at all, so appears darker (and shinier) than the lightly dyed initial pour around the secondary recoil lug recess on the forend.
I still have some clean-up to do, like drilling out the hole for the front action screw, but have started playing with the black Sharpie:











Below is the untouched bottom of the stock, good to go, except for the replacement of the forend swivel stud with a rounded/oval-head torx screw.
That was an as-is screw that did not even need to be cut off, seated as shown in the barrel channel above. It is flat and square on the underside of the head, fits flush with the stock.
That screw is a real cutie that will be gentle on the hand in recoil, since this rifle has a barrel band for the sling base.
Still allows use of a bipod for big-bore benchrest competition with myself, or field use in prone sniping positions with the 500 Mbogo.
As you were. Make that use of tall bipod for sitting position.





This bedding job was done bassackwards, it should have started with the primary action recoil lug which was done last.
Use of too much liquid vinyl, paint-on release agent in the primary action lug area has caused some cosmetic problems with the flat under the action, but all recoil surfaces are good, tight and solid.
I think I will use neutral-colored Kiwi paste-wax shoe polish or spray-on PAM (canola oil) henceforth.

NRA Life Benefactor

10 pounds even as shown:



But load it and it gets heavier:
500 Mbogo:
brass case = 330 grains
powder = 100 grains
bullet = 570 grains
Loaded cartridge weight = 1000 grains

The rifle holds 4 down in the box plus 1 in the chamber = 5 cartridges

5000 grains of ammo weight = 0.714 pound = 11.4 ounces of ammo.

Loaded weight of rifle = 10 pounds 11.4 ounces, about 10-3/4#, as shown below, compared to unloaded rifle above, it has ballooned in bulk:



That should tame rifle recoil a lot, especially for the first shot.

NRA Life Benefactor