I think I've posted a bit about this project in the past but only in passing. I would like to know what you think of the practicality of the feat.

I started with a GMA action with an acme style thread for the barrels. This should be a self centering affair plus I have a 0.100 long bearing surface before the threads begin and the same after the threads end. The final bearing surface is where the barrel will lock up on the action.

Calibers are all based on the 378 wby basic brass 3" long. There will be 10 barrels total. Some way, way over bore and others more practical. There will be a 7mm, 308, 338, 358, 375, 416, 458, 475, 500 and 550. I thought about a .423 but just couldn't justify such a small difference from the 416. Same applied to the 9.3.

I've got most of the barrels head spaced and ready to go but my question is regarding a mounting method to the stock. There will be three stocks for this set up. One for each of the 3 contours used. I am thinking about milling an aluminum block that will bolt to the action. This block will run forward in to the forearm. Once set and fit both the 3 cross bolts and three action screws will clamp the barreled action into the stock. The stock will be glass bedded with Dacron epoxy steel.

My thinking is I can get a lot of contact between this block and the wood in places where the stock is strongest. The recoil lug on the barrel will be replaced with a cross bolt and a screw from the forearm. Since I can machine the blocks with absolute precision and I will use bronze bushings on all the holes in the block and precision pin screws to absolutely locate the action when it's clamped I don't see the assembly moving at all in the stock.

My plan is to do the same on a 375H&H based case. Again 10 barrels and three stocks. .25, 6.5mm, 7mm, 308, 338, 358, 375, 416, 458, 470.

If it works Like I think I have plans to do the same on a 308 case and the 30-06 case.

Any thought or problems that I'm missing. This will be a lot of work and I would like to solve most of the problems that I'm sure will come up ahead of time.

Thanks for any of your thoughts.

John

John,

It sounds like an interesting (and fun) project. I don't know about the efficacy of using the aluminum block on the really big bores ((I remember H-S Precision declining to make a stock for a friend's .378Wby.; too much recoil impulse), but the way you will be buttressing it sounds like it will hold up.

George

GeorgeS has got right to the only concern I have:

If the bedding block is going to reach into the forearm and really do some work there on the big bores, it ought to be made of mild steel or a titanium-aluminum alloy that is strong enough to take the impact and tensile loads.

Aircraft aluminum is a titanium alloy is it not? Would that be strong enough?

When you get some free time may I contract for a copy of Mjolnir patterned after the Marvel comic book Thor's hammer? Made of aircraft aluminum, handle and head that screw together, full size?

John,
make the block out of fortal... 1/2 the weight and all the strength of 1018

jeffe

Fritz 454 ----- Sounds like a good project, however refering to basic Wby 378 brass when it came from the .416 Rigby with the addition of the belt doesn't quite sound right for some reason. Weatherby never started anything, he was very good at adapting from something else, and quite successful I might add, and that from a Weatherby fan. Good shooting.

I was thinking of al 7075 which is pretty tough stuff. I could use a steel plate of 4140 and blue it to match the barrels and action. On the big kickers the weight would be a plus but on the smaller calibers it may bring the weight up to much. Something to think about.

My plan was to run the block about 2" forward of the action, cross bolt behind and in front of the magazine well and one more about 1.5" ahead of the front of the action. Then three bolts from the bottom, two in the usual place on the trigger guard and floor plate and one more a bit behind the forward most cross bolt.

I could certainly do it out of ti but not sure it really needs that much strength. Actually it would be pretty simple to make three, one from 7075, one in 4140 and one in ti. Let the best man win so to speak. Or use the steel one for 416s and up and the Al or Ti one for the smaller bores.

I've got to make a decision this week. I'm hoping to have this gun ready for the big bubba hog shoot in November.

Rip, Let me know what you're thinking about for your hammer and I'm sure I can get it built. The sooner I get you into my schedule the sooner you'll get it. I'm swamped with DOD work right now and I have to fight to get machine time for my gun projects. Let’s talk; I owe you for the lead on the 505 Gibbs anyway.

Jeffe, BTW I got your Jeffe specials in 550 programmed should have em turned my weeks end.

John

John,
excellent..!!!
7075 is one of the allowed filler for tig'ing fortal, so it should be pretty darn good.

hmm, if you had a block and dovetail on the barrel lug AND on a stock lug.......

jeffe

Phurley5, For the first set up I wanted to use a belted case. I feel it will be a bit easier to keep the headspace consistant. Really no reason I can think of for saying that just kind of a gut response .

Now you've given me another idea for a set of barrels to on the rigby case. Oh no I'll never sleep.

Next will be something on the 223 case and then the swift case. where will this madness end.

fritz454,
Thanks for taking Mjolinir seriously.
Plain aluminum would be fine for this prop.
Then maybe titanium for a second model, after the test run, to get all the bugs out of the design.

They would make nice doorstops, paper weights, and home defense weapons.

I'll get back with you when you have machine time. The plans will be very simple. Basically a brick shape and a broomstick shaped handle that screws into the brick. I'll send plans or a wooden mockup for your artistic reinterpretation.

Maybe tungsten and depleted uranium or gold and platinum for future models, and collector editions. Possibly engraved and inlayed, with leather wraps and straps for the handle.

John,
tried to call the shop... you must have been on a machine!!!! thanks on the bullets... they'll be pressure tested in my pressure barrel, you can be assured

rip,
i am planning on having Mjolnir in runes engraved on my 550 flanged. While the comic book one would weigh at least 60pounds, i would do one starting life from a 4 inch piece of navel brass and a hicory limb... not a turn piece of trunk, as the vikings learned, if it GREW that size and shape it would be at least 10x stronger. either dunk the head in strong ammonia, or on a very hot day, when you are nearly dehydrated, run a torch over the brass and take a whiz on it... talk about instant patinia...

RIP, are you raising two goats too... just a thor question.

jeffe

John-Check on setting the 3 stocks up with
a Ruger type bedding bars.Can get them at
GumParts Co.Iuse them on my Ruger and reshaping
recoil lugs on any other action will make a fit the bedding bars.Have you ever tried big
Ruger actions?Ed.

Ed, I'll have to take a look at a ruger set up. My biggest ruger is a 35 whelen don't know if they would bother for such a mild kicker.
I'm trying to get a Mauser action into solid works as a solid. I want to then see about extending it a bit to get a full 4" on magazine length and a .850 bolt diameter. I'm going to do the same on a double rifle action.
I need the mounting plate (block) to fit into the stock and then hold the action and barrel assembly tightly and provide a lot of surface contact with the stock in places that have good strength or that can be reinforced.
At least that's my goal. Time will tell how it works.
John

John-The Ruger bedding bar beds way up forward
in the forearm, where it is hard to split the stock.And any action can be fitted to the
opening in the back of the bar.My bedding bars
stay in the stock with a screw in the forearm.
Here is a pic..Ed[