I'm about to start a Ruger No 1 project and am trying to decide whether to chamber for 375 H&H flanged mag or the belted one. It will be shooting 300 grainers at ~2400 fps regardless of which chambering I go with. Cost of components and dies is significantly less with the belted round and the Ruger seems to work equally well with a rim or a belt. It won't be used for DG. The rimmed cartridge has a greater appeal to me....potato, potatoe?

Just flip a coin.


465H&H

The only question that comes to mind is the ability of available 375 Flanged Brass to handle the pressure necessary to meet your loading requirements.

easy one.....go with the belted model as long as no dangerous game is intended.

belted.. take the change and build another rifle or upgrade the wood!!
jeffe

Flanged. Unless your wages are outrageously low (and I am sure they are not), then the savings is insignificant, and a flanged round is more classy in a single shot.

IMO, the flanged version is definitely the way to go considering that you are chambering it in a falling block one-shooter.

As 375 belted is the factory set up and parts available, I'd go with the belted. I had a #1 375 and never had a problem at all with ejection and have never heard of a problem with the #1. On the other hand, pairing up a 375 flanged #1 with a double would be cool. I'd also look at the easy availability of belted cases and the fact the 375 flanged was a pretty rare bird and cases might be pretty hard to find, other than Bertram. bob

quote:

Originally posted by 500grains:
Flanged. Unless your wages are outrageously low (and I am sure they are not), then the savings is insignificant, and a flanged round is more classy in a single shot.

Yes and no.

The flanged belongs in a period rifle or reproduction but a Ruger #1 is more in line with modern rounds by my way of thinking (and the Ruger has no history of failing to extract belted rounds). I would have done the flanged in my Fraser side lever but would have gone with the standard H&H in a Ruger.

In the Ruger No1, simply buy a No1 Tropical chambered for 375 H&H belted rimless, and spend the extra money on a custom stock,with a Silvers recoil pad, and a good scope. The Ruger No1 has never had a problem ejecting rimless shells, be they slick body, and belted. I have 9 Ruger No1s, and all but one are rimless, or belted rimless, except one, and that one is my favorite 45-70 rifle!

Mac,

Thanks for your reply. I have an action that is going to be the basis of this rifle so your idea won't work in this situation. I'm going with the flanged round just 'cuz it's a single shot and it's different. Have a good one.

I used to have a #1 in 300 Weatherby and while it was strong enough for max loads it wouldn't eject any that were even slighly sticky.
So I think you'd be better off with flanged cases.

quote:

Originally posted by Leo L.:
I used to have a #1 in 300 Weatherby and while it was strong enough for max loads it wouldn't eject any that were even slighly sticky.
So I think you'd be better off with flanged cases.

LEO, did the extractor slip over the rim, or just wouldn't budge it out of the chamber? If the latter is the case, it wouldn't make any difference whether it was rimless, or rimmed. The WBY cases are almost perfectly streight, and if hot, they stick period. The 375 H&H or flanged are steeply tapered, and require a lot less force to break free of the chamber walls, than a streight sided high pressure case. He is going to go with the 375 Flanged anyway so it makes little difference in this case.

I've used both but prefer the flanged. Split the diff. in cost vs components & go 9.3x74R. Lots of brass & bullets there.

Personally, I'd go with the flanged, as you have. I have more than 15 Ruger single shots (one of them is a Ruger #3...the rest are No.1's), but all of my custom rifles on the No.1 actions are chambered for flanged brass.

None of my Ruger single shots have ever failed to extract, whether rimless, belted, or rimmed, but I still feel more confident that the flanged ones will always function perfectly whether going in or coming out.

I guess another reason I like the flanged rounds is that I am never tempted to overload those cases, the way I surely would be if I was using belted brass. I know that's silly, but there it is.

Anyway, if I was worried about brass availability (and I always am when I first build a new rifle in a less-than-wildly-popular chambering), I'd continue to do what I do now. That is, at the same time I build the rifle I buy 300 rounds of new, drawn (NOT turned) brass regardless what it costs me. From then on I never have to worry about brass for that gun unless it is a varminter...and seldom even then.

quote:

Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:
Personally, I'd go with the flanged, as you have. I have more than 15 Ruger single shots (one of them is a Ruger #3...the rest are No.1's), but all of my custom rifles on the No.1 actions are chambered for flanged brass.

None of my Ruger single shots have ever failed to extract, whether rimless, belted, or rimmed, but I still feel more confident that the flanged ones will always function perfectly whether going in or coming out.

I’ve heard of rimmed brass hitting the safety as it’s being ejected. Have you ever experienced this? I know a popular mod on custom no.1’s is having a recessed safety installed to stop this from happening.

I’m curious as to your experiences with rimmed cases as I’ve already started having a no.1 built in 7x65R!

- stu

quote:

Originally posted by Stu C:

quote:

Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:
Personally, I'd go with the flanged, as you have. I have more than 15 Ruger single shots (one of them is a Ruger #3...the rest are No.1's), but all of my custom rifles on the No.1 actions are chambered for flanged brass.

None of my Ruger single shots have ever failed to extract, whether rimless, belted, or rimmed, but I still feel more confident that the flanged ones will always function perfectly whether going in or coming out.

I’ve heard of rimmed brass hitting the safety as it’s being ejected. Have you ever experienced this? I know a popular mod on custom no.1’s is having a recessed safety installed to stop this from happening.

I’m curious as to your experiences with rimmed cases as I’ve already started having a no.1 built in 7x65R!

- stu

That is a problem I have never encountered. Put differently, if brass ejected from my rifles has struck the safety button(s), it certainly has never failed to clear the rifle(s). I suspect it is more of a theoretical possibility than an actual happening, for most folk. I suppose it COULD happen under exactly the right (wrong?) circumstances, but would also think the same COULD happen with a either a rimless or belted round.

Also think it would be self-clearing...that is, a round might bump the safety, but I see no way it could hang-up and fail to enter the chamber, and even less possibility of its failing to clear on ejection. The rifle, after all, is not rigidly held in one position when being used in the field, and I suspect that once the brass starts to clear the chamber on ejection, it has enough play in every direction with most cartridges appropriate for that size action, that even if it should hit the safety it will basically bounce/shake on out just with normal hunter motion during the process.

BTW, one of my custom No. 1 rifles IS in 7x65-R, and it is my very favorite all around rifle for non-dangerous game. It shoots very dependably in the 3/4" group area with the heaviest bullet weight factory RWS H-Mantle loads.

I have gotten sufficiently used to it that I have learned to operate it rather rapidly, too. As one instance, one day on the ranch I was hunting Wapiti...while walking up a narrow wagon road near the juncture of two high ridges, a small band of elk burst out of the top of the very narrow valley on my right, ran across the road in front of me, and dove into the top of a narrow canyon on the left side of the road. There were trees on both sides of the road, so any shooting had to be done while the elk were crossing the road. To cut the story short, not only was the rig quick enough to get an elk, but I got two elk from that burst of animals.

Afterward, when I looked for the brass (hate to lose good RWS brass), both empties were in my right trousers pocket....put there by instinct, I guess.

Both elk were hit in the same place, right where the neck meets the brisket, and both fell within 10-12 feet of being hit, with massive blood loss by the time I could walk over to them. Range was probably 50-75 yards (measured by eyeball), though I did not bother to pace it off.

The sight in use on that rifle is rather larger than what I normally like, but is what I had to spare when the rifle was put together....a 3.5x10-X Leupold with tapered dot reticule. Has worked well enough I have never bothered to take it off and put something smaller on.

BTW, I also have a very early (with really nice wood) Ruger No. 1-S in 7m/m Rem Mag, which is as accurate (or even more so) with 160-175 gr. Noslers. I have never experienced the "failure to eject" syndrome with it either, but still prefer the 7x65-R for field use.

Alberta,
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I never was worried about any ejection issues, but now I'm even less so

I still have a long wait ahead till this one is ready.

- stu