Hi, I've shot off the bench a handful of reloaded mid-range rounds with my scoped Parker-Hale 375 HH, with average results; I have never zeroed a big bore and it's not clear to me if it's better to keep it down or let it jump freely; rifle+scope weigh less than 9 lbs. Thanks for your hints.

fore end on bags, off hand is holding foreend, too

under NO CIRCUMSTANCE should the toe of the stock be on bags or bench .. sit up, pull into your shoulder, and roll with it.

free recoiling bigbores, while a cool showoff thing, doesn't do anything but beat the snot out of you

I use a Caldwell tackdriver rest and let the gun come straight back. It is a very steady rest and reduces recoil. I just get the scope zeroed and go to the shooting sticks.

Jeffe,

Why do you say under no circumstances should the toe of the stock be on sand bags? Is it just a recoil thing? I typically shoot rifles up to .458 Lott (although that gets your attention) off sandbags resting both forend and butt on sandbags, but holding the forend down with left hand. pulling into shoulder with left hand. some say you should push away with right hand, but that's just for pulling the trigger as far as I'm concerned.

Interested in your thoughts

wildboar,

Don't let a big bore rifle recoil freely when shooting from the bench, as you would with a bench rest or light recoiling rifle.

It's a different process with a big bore. Here are my suggestions, based on what works for me:

1. Make sure the front rest is high enough so that you are sitting up straight when you shoulder the rifle. Your back should be nearly straight up and down with just a bit of forward cant. You don't want to lean too far down and forward into the rifle as you normally might do.

2. You can use a rear bag, and I do. It should be high enough to support the rifle butt in its natural position in the shoulder pocket. For a truly hard kicker, you can put a small "cheater" pad or bag between the rifle's butt and your shoulder.

3. Get a tight hold on the fore end with your weak hand, and bed it on the front bag. Then get a tight hold on the grip with your dominant hand and pull the rifle firmly back into your shoulder pocket with both hands. Keep your trigger finger relaxed.

4. Get what we in the USA call a firm "cheek weld" on the stock. In other words, hug it hard, don't caress it! This should not be a problem unless your stock has too much drop or otherwise doesn't fit you.

5. Breath and trigger control are the same as with any rifle, but are more difficult because you have to hold a big bore tightly. You really have to concentrate.

6. Roll with the recoil, just as you would if you were shooting from the standing position.

7. Once zeroed, get off the bench and onto your hind legs!

I agree with mrlexma's instructions. That is the way I do it for initial zeroing and accuracy work from the bench.

Now if only he could learn how to shoot from sticks!

One bit more is to have have two small sandbags or soft pads, such as Spenco, foam rubber, or folded towel, to lightly rest your triggerhand-side elbow and your contralateral forearm on ... or wear a padded jacket. Padding and reduced friction are desirable where your front arm contacts the bench, and where your rear arm contacts the bench ... for improved and fearless stability, and for a smooth slide backwards with recoil.

It is true that if you hold the rifle down too hard on the bags from the bench, it will shoot lower, and hence it will shoot higher when you get onto your legs and shoot it offhand or from sticks.

"Zen Masters of the Big Bore" are able to produce a neutral downward hold on the bags, if they practice their art to perfection.
The rifle may touch the rear bag as if in zero gravity.

If you do it right, your rifle will shoot the same from the bench or offhand. But most humans, and all novices, need to check their zero from the hind legs as well as from the bench.

Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee.
Good advice from Cassius Clay.

Hey wildboar.A 375 won't kill you.Shoot it like a lesser caliber and put a sandbag between the stock and your shoulder.If your using a scope,make sure you got 13 inches from the stocks butt to the scope eye piece.You don't want to cut yourself! If your eyesight is good,throw away the scope-unless you've come to the conclusion that you're an old man,already.

quote:

Originally posted by lavaca:
Jeffe,

Why do you say under no circumstances should the toe of the stock be on sand bags? Is it just a recoil thing? I typically shoot rifles up to .458 Lott (although that gets your attention) off sandbags resting both forend and butt on sandbags, but holding the forend down with left hand. pulling into shoulder with left hand. some say you should push away with right hand, but that's just for pulling the trigger as far as I'm concerned.

Interested in your thoughts

If you lock the toe of the sock in, you are now forcing the stock to bend in the middle, with very little to no give.. you are asking for trouble on this one.. I've busted 2 stocks that I swear are a result of this, as they both (500 jeffe) had taken a good number of rounds, and then when "bagged down good" trying to fine tune the sights, I broke the stocks, first or second shot.

if it can come back, perhaps thats okay --

IME, lead sleds are great for anything like this, just don't try to STOP the rifle, its only there to slow the recoil down.

btw, i LIKE lead sleds, for sight in and load dev .. then I pick the beasts up...

For advanced Big Bore Benchrest Studies:

"Torque Control of the 577 Tyrannosaur, How Not To Do It"

(Insert Youtube link to Saeed's "Champions" here.)

The best trick for shooting a 375 off the bench is to shoot a 416 Rigby or 458 Lott first. The 375 will seem mild after that, IMHO.

quote:

Originally posted by Teat Hound:
The best trick for shooting a 375 off the bench is to shoot a 416 Rigby or 458 Lott first. The 375 will seem mild after that, IMHO.

So very true.

Thanks to those who gave useful hints.

quote:

Originally posted by Teat Hound:
The best trick for shooting a 375 off the bench is to shoot a 416 Rigby or 458 Lott first. The 375 will seem mild after that, IMHO.

fuuny and true!

If your .375 has a good recoil pad, it should not kick hard. I use a Kick Eze recoil pad on my .375 Ruger and it's easy on the shoulder. When bench resting big bores, I like to sit straight up and hold them firmly.

Shoot trap or skeet with heavy 12 ga trap loads.
100 rounds in an afternoon will leave you feeling a little beat. After a year or two you adapt to this and a few rounds through a big bore do not seem that vigorous. Just don't relax so much you break your glasses or scalp on the scope. Starting out without a scope might be a good idea.

I believe you have to hold the forend firmly of a rifle with moderate to heavy recoil, particulary if the round is slower. I went from not being able to reliably sight in my 375 H&H to having 3 holes touching by holding the forend down, that's with the same reloads. When sighting in my 270, I do it classic benchstyle no hand on the forend whatsoever.

quote:

Originally posted by chuck375:
I believe you have to hold the forend firmly of a rifle with moderate to heavy recoil, particulary if the round is slower. I went from not being able to reliably sight in my 375 H&H to having 3 holes touching by holding the forend down, that's with the same reloads. When sighting in my 270, I do it classic benchstyle no hand on the forend whatsoever.

I hold the fore end down with everything but varmint and bench rest rifles, even old iron sighted military rifles. I get pretty amazing results with with everything except short iron sighted carbines.

Hold her down Man, hold her down. Have confidence in the critical eye relief of the scope. Use recoil protection like the Magnum PAST pad or sissy pad from Protektor as needed.

Be a Zen Master of the Big Bore!!!! No retreat, no surrender.

quote:

Originally posted by Teat Hound:
The best trick for shooting a 375 off the bench is to shoot a 416 Rigby or 458 Lott first. The 375 will seem mild after that, IMHO.

Very true.