Mete- Felt recoil and trigger time are what counts not calculated numbers based on the physics. Trust me if you fire a full house load at over 200ft lbs in a 600 ok without a brake it's gonna hurt you bad! Same load with my brake and no problems. It feels like its the same as a 100 ft lb gun. That's a world of improvement. The holes in my brake are angled backwards to that the exiting gas actually helps pull the gun off your shoulder. I've made clam shell style brakes that are even more efficient at taming recoil but are estheticly wrong for the gun. Capish?

if the back blast is enough to help lift the gun off your shoulder, do you need to wear safety glasses?? sure sounds like it.

Rip,

That's Grizzilla with Tom and the two hogs. He sold it to Trophyhunter5000 who sent it back to me to add the quarter rib with scout scope, the muzzle brake, and a couple of pounds of lead. That's his Buff I believe. The original Grizzilla was not threaded for a muzzle brake. Tom had one other 600 OK and that's the one on the homepage of our website leaning on the Buff horns. Bigdoggy still has that one I think.

I have several new and gently used 600 barrels from Pacnor with 9 grooves in chrome moly if you need one. I have a couple that are unturned blanks that you could send back for contouring. It would save you the 6 month wait for a new order.

Email me and I'll give you the low-down on the tricks to building the OK and the special parts we make for it that take all the mystery out of it.

Wayne,
I am not quite to ready to order the rifle, or parts. My bore envy has not quite reached that level yet.
But when it does, you will be first know about it.
For now, I am just wondering what the bore/land diameter of the Pac-Nor .620"-grooved barrel is.
3-groove or 9-groove, all the same bore diameter?

Krieger's latest is .621/.608.

Pac-Nor's is .620/.6?? ... ???

Always wear safety glasses and yes you can feel the back blast.-Rob

it seems to me that if the back blast is strong enough to lift the gun forward off your shoulder, you wouldn't just feel it. it would be down right dangerous. and hunting with safety glasses doesn't sound like much fun....

Muzzle brakes:
Good for load development, prevents shoulder bruising, but I think I was starting to notice a headache just from the muzzle blast,
after a recent 30-round firing of 500 Bateleur, along with 40 rounds of 400 Whelen as a warmup.

My latest session with Bertha B. Weatherby the 10.25-pound (dry) .500 Bateleur with a muzzle brake, amazed me with the amount of wind coming back at me from the brake:



No shoulder-thump problem, of course, with that much weight and a brake. The brake, scope with 4 rings, and slip-on pad get the weight over 12 pounds:



Bertha B. Weatherby 500 Bateleur is my training wheels to develop loads for Bridget B. Mauser, my 8-pound-11-ounce 500 Bateleur.
The FN Mauser 500 Bateleur has a Vais Brake, but the goal is to use her without the brake:



I have yet to finish ringing out this second 500 Mbogo, also put together by Rusty McGee, Falls of Rough, KY, who did the other two above:



This 500 Mbogo has a 23"-long Pac-Nor barrel of 1:9" twist.
The rifle weighs 9.5 pounds exactly, as shown, no muzzle-brake allowed.
After I get comfortable with +130 ft-lbs recoil at impulse-drive velocity in this one,
then I'll think about moving up to +230 ft-lbs of warp-drive recoil in a 600 Overkill.
Problem is I may never get comfortable with 130 ft-lbs ...
A man has got to know his limitations.


The first 500 Mbogo is 10.0 pounds dry.
Add scope and Vais Brake and it is over 11 lbs.
Harry McGowen made the barrel with integral lump for rear sight base and secondary recoil lug on barrel.
Barrel is 25" long without brake, 1:10" twist, and one of the last barrels from Harry and son,
before they sold the biz and machinery to the current Montana folks:

Robgunbuilder, it's capisce ! and felt ! recoil.They don't speak English, they don't speak Italian ! no wonder I have a problem. LOL

Thanks to all for the interesting discussion.

Bitteroot, yes I still have 3 guns in 600 overkill. The one on your web site, my first one that Ed started building for me that you finished, and the Rogue by Mike at Bijou Creek.I love all of them. The original one of Toms has the best looking stock by far and the brake on it is a special slimmed down version. I still have not decided which I like better, the 600 O.K. or the 700 AHR.

RIP, i DID HAVE THE BUTT STOCK ADDED BACK TO THE 600 rOGUE, i JUST LIKE THE LOOKS OF IT A LOT MORE. tHE MATCHING LOWER GUN IN THAT PICTURE IS A b. cREEK 500 jEFFERY.

I have to agree with several others on this post, while it may be funny watching some loud mouth know it all get smacked in the face by recoil, its not safe. Don't make people afraid of big bores for a joke. Serious injury can easily occur with poor stance and shooting technique. Please take time to show how to properly shoot a big boy toy. Sorry, don't mean to preach.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdoggy2bore:
RIP, i DID HAVE THE BUTT STOCK ADDED BACK TO THE 600 rOGUE, i JUST LIKE THE LOOKS OF IT A LOT MORE. tHE MATCHING LOWER GUN IN THAT PICTURE IS A b. cREEK 500 jEFFERY.

Not too careful with your capslock, eh, bigdoggy?
Is that a side-effect of recoil?
Thanks for the info. "The Rogue" and "Grizzilla" are very special 600 Overkills for sure.
Then there is your 2-Bore double rifle.
How's that hangin'?

It seems like there are two classes of shooters. Those that are self styled experts with no real experience and those that are willing to learn. I was shooting my .600 ok at the range last year and one such expert came by and loudly proclaimed that there was no need for a rifle like the .600 ok and that his .338 Lapua magnum was all anyone ever needed for anything. After awhile he asked to shoot the .6000k and I agreed. I offered to give him some instruction but he said he was very experienced with magnums and He was certain I couldn't teach him a thing about shooting anything. Yup, he had the attitude in spades! At the time i only had a 2250 FPS load. stout but far from max. He insisted on using his rest and shot off the table just like he did with his .338. no standing up for him. real snipers like him dont shoot like that do they! To make a long story short I spent 1/2 hr closing his " scope cut" with superglue and making sure both pupils regained the same size. Knocked the crap out of him! All I heard was OMG i never though it would be that bad! Now my 105lb daughter shoots that gun all the time as have others on this board. Some people choose to learn the easy way and some need to learn the hard way. Point is, this is a gun that can either hurt you or please you depending on how much your willing to learn. One thing I've learned is you can't fix stupid even with superglue! If you don't like muzzle brakes you had better be ready to take a real pounding ! Yes my brakes are very efficient, but I'm more than willing to let you see for yourself if you ever visit Vegas. Lets hope obamacare covers you though! Bring your own superglue. -Rob

quote:

Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
One thing I've learned is you can't fix stupid even with superglue!

I have shot a ton of guns from small sub guns to what I consider the largest of the big bores. Hopefully soon I will have an overkill under my belt. I have never had formal training on the big shoulder fired magnums. I have always shot them opposite of sub gun stance. I feel if you fight the recoil and really lean in to it you are going to loose. However if you shift your weight to your rear leg and roll with the recoil your body absorbs far less recoil. It may be bad form and not so good for follow up shots but I can shoot quite a bit in one session. Again I have never been taught the best way to shoot them and if anyone has any advice I am happy to hear it.

Anonymousbob- The classic sub gun stance would be a disaster with a gun in the .600OK class. A near guaranteed hospital trip in fact with a serious load. I use a isosceles style foot stance ( but with my knees locked tight) with the gun down deep in your chest muscles( NOT HIGH IN THE SHOULDER POCKET) and let my body roll back with the recoil. Cheek hard ON the stock, teeth clenched and grip hand hard down( to prevent knucke damage), death grip on the forearm with fingers wrapped over the barrel if possible. It will recoil straight back, not up this way. With a scope I make sure I have about 4" of eye relief. IF you keep your head down hard on the stock you have nothing to fear from the scope. A few weeks ago 470 nitroshooter was here with his new scoped AHR .600OK and we had a blast shooting it. Each of us probably shot 20 ends each. If it climbs on you though( and its the shooters fault) your screwed.-Rob

Wayne some obnoxious idiots deserve scope cuts and the likes. Sounds like you ran into one. After he got his face smashers, a little smile had to form on your face!

Hey!
Is there any way I could have a switch-barrel .408 Chey-Tac and 600 Overkill using the same magazine box (+4.00" inside length) and .505 Gibbs bolt face?
That is on a stainless MRC PH action,
with a 1.35" diameter barrel shank, IIRC.
If it will feed 600 OK, it will probably be slick as owl poop with the .408CT.
No, I do not want to wildcat the 600 OK to .408/600 OK ... but let me think about it long enough and I might ... (Rob's idea)

RIP- I never did a .408/.600OK so feel free to go for it. We did a .458 and a .375 but no .40"s. I see no issues with a 4.00 inch box with the .600OK at all even with very long bullets. a >600Ok case is 2.985 vs 3.04 for the Chey Tac so you have 0.985 to go for bullet protrusion with 0.030 for feeding slack in a 4.00 box. Base head dimensions are the same 0.636 vs .637 in the Chey tac. The .600Ok has a water capacity of 212grs vs 159 for the Chey tac so you could gain quite a bit of velocity. Seems like you just need the right size bullets in the chey tac to fit in a 4.00 mag box. I of course love switch barrels. Go for it! I might join you on this one.-Rob

Rob,

http://www.gsgroup.co.za/410325HV170.html



This 325-grain HV bullet from GSC is already set for .400-bore, just needs the bands tweaked to .408-groove instead of currently offered .410,
and that is just routine for a GSC order, GSC-USA.

GSC makes a .408/385-grain FN, short enough, ready to load through the MRC PH magazine box.
There is a longer .408/370-grain GSC HV and a longest .408/385-grain SP, the latter two would have to be single-shot loaders, like all the other commonly available 305-grain to 419-grain .408 bullets.
The Barnes TSX bullet, .411/300-grain is stubby in comparison and is easy to size down to .408 with a CH4D sizer, etc., plimkers galore, etc., ... bullets are no excuse not to do it.

Adding a switch-barrel that could also fire the 600 OK would make this the ultimate long-range and short-range "switch-barrel battery."
Not thinking about necking down the 600 OK to .408, no thanks.
Re-sale value on such an obscure wildcat would scare me off. Since when?
The proprietary .408 Chey-Tac wildcat is obscure enough.

MRC PH bolt face that works for .505 Gibbs works for 600 OK:

It's a switch barrel, why not have all three? Once you have the dimensions if done by CNC you can duplicate any barrel threads and shoulder specs/ chamber you want.

quote:

Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
It's a switch barrel, why not have all three? Once you have the dimensions if done by CNC you can duplicate any barrel threads and shoulder specs/ chamber you want.

Then that is the plan:
1. .408 CT
2. 600 OK
and finally a
3. .408/600 OK aka "400 OK."
Then there will be need for a
4. .510/600 OK aka "500 Overkill."
That ought to cover it.
No need for me to trifle with your .458/600 OK ...