I'm wondering if anyone has played around with turning one of the inexpensive 12 ga coachguns into a paradox by putting rifled chokes in. I know you'd have to regulate it, but for a cheap big bore double it seems like it could be fun.

The only double I will be able to afford for a long time, but I have my whole life to save up.

If the gun has screw in chokes and you use IC chokes the standard rifled slug will surprise you in it's accuracy. If it don't they can be installed.

If you wish maybe you can find someone to build rifle barrels for it.

I have my doubts if those screw in rifle chokes really work or not! I have considered though getting a old double shotgun with third fastener, cutting the barrels back to 16.5 inches or so, internally threading it and then adding two screw in, 6 inch long pieces of 12 ga ER shaw rifled barrel. The 12 ga barrel would have to be turned down( and internally coned for a swaging fit), then outside turned to match the barrel contour, adding a wedge, regulating and then soldering the barrel sections together. Chamber for the 12 Ga-FH short and use a .731 bullet soft lead paradox style bullet. You might even be able to salvage the original top rib and fit rifle sights to it. Nicely fitted and blued, it would make a nice paradox gun.-Rob

I wandered across the street the gunshop this morning and hefted both a 20" tubed coach gun $320, and a 26" tubed (with threaded chokes) for $350. The problem is I was torn, the 26" barreled gun didn't quite have the balance I was after, and the 20" doesn't have chokes. After hunting blacktails in thick stuff and kicking them up last year, I can see where a compact double with buckshot would be the ticket.

Paul,

I'm sending you a PM.

Best wishes,

I once modified a Stevens 311 to shoot slugs by gradually shortening the barrels until they shot together, it wasn't rifled but you could hit a playing card at 60 yds with either barrel. As purchased the barrels were 30" and it shot about 12" apart and slightly high. I installed a rear sight on the rib and super glued on a front. As the barrels were shortened, with a hack saw on the range (insert stange looks by others), the groups came together. Final barrel length was 21" at which point I permanently installed the front sight. By reducing the barrel length I was reducing the amount of time the slugs spent in the barrels and their divergence from the line of sight. It was handy, fun to shoot and looked great, then I got dumb and let a guy talk me out of it. I need to get another and try it again.

I have a Husqvarna M102 16ga hammer gun with steel bbls and Greener cross bolt that would make a dandy DR. This is the same action Husky used for their 9.3x74 (actually a 103, but essentially the same) so it should be strong enough. Pins are already bushed and the gun is as tight as new. There is a fellow in Colorado that uses an epoxyed in liner. Are there others out there that can make me a double on this gun using other methods?
Thanks, Bob

You should be able to make a rifle/shotgun combo easily using an insert from

http://www.mcace.com/shotguninserts.htm

you could do a double rifle if you could get it to regulate.

I have used a Rem 870 with a screw-in rifled choke, saddle-type scope mount and a low powered scope to deadly effect on a whitetail while hunting where shotguns with slugs was the only legal method. If I remember correctly, I got about 3 inch groups at 75 yards which is minute-of-big game for the effective range of most slugs.

The sighting in effort wears on you though. Nothing like 3-inch slug loads in a 7.8-8 lbs weapon to get your attention .

Start with a 16ga double, and have bauska rifle it?
j

There is an 11 page dissertation on the double barrel slug gun on double gun.

Seems remarkably precise but he still has to work out a load that regulates. Looks like he is getting there though.

http://gunshop.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=021686

Jeff, Are you suggesting having the original barrels rifled? Like for slugs? What I had in mind was a low pressure .40 -.45 cal rifle cartridge and either sleeved shotgun bbls or fitting new bbls to the monobloc. The sleeving method would certainly be the most economical method. Don't know how he regulates the bbls. A couple of recoil reducers in the stock and I'm guessing a final weight of 10.5-11 lbs. I am bolt gun trash, but the idea of using this hammer gun to create a DR is facinating. Bob
Thanks, Bob

I too am intrested in rifled choke tubes. or what about a light rifling simular to Hastings wadlock shotgun barrels? would .005 deep stabilize sabots or other slugs? Kurt.

http://www.sabatti.it/eng/framesetgiustapposti.htm

I bet the Saba Slug shotgun in this page would be a awesome test bed for this kind of project.
Kweber- That rifling is too shallow, .005 is a very minute difference in diameter. There would be too many factors to consider that beneficial at all, if not detrimental.

how deep could rifling be cut in a shotgun barrel if at all? not a 'smith, just running some ideas past people more knowlegeble than me.the Sabatti is fine looking. smoothbore? if so could it be fitted with rifled tubes. not even sure how well rifled choke tubes work. thanks for any replys. Kurt.

The rifling in 12GA FH is .005---Seems
to work with hardened cast slugs and banded
solids.Ed.

Well Hubel458 is the big bore masterblaster, so I'm sure it would work. I don't know, that just seems too shallow. Most centerfire rifles are around in the .010 area I believe.

If you intend to use buckshot , you don't wan't any rifling in the barrels........the twist tends to spread a load of shot like no tomorrow.........

30-06 rifling is called .008, but it is
.004 on each side. That's .308 minus
.300 = .008 and .004 per side....
Our(Rob, John,and Mine) barrels for
12GA FH is .719 land diameter and .729 groove
diameter, .010 difference, and .005 debth
each side. 550 Mag barrels are .550 groove,
.540 land, .010 difference, .005 per side.Ed.

The beaty of threaded chokes is I can either have rifling, or smooth bore.

I'd be curious to see if the short rifling would open up patterns as much as a fully rifled tube.

my thought was if the rifled tubes shoot slugs close enough together, great! if way apart, sight it for the slug barrel and buckshot in the other(modern cape gun).just thinking aloud on the board and fishing for comments(good or bad). Kurt.

anyone with gunsmithing abilities doing anything like this?

I've got bowstaff skills, so I ain't gonna make no paradox!
Are you asking if anyone's doing any Paradox's lately? Try to find yourself a nice double with screw in choke tubes, and make sure it's one that's going to be able to take the pounding of slugs and buckshot. Try a Ruger, those are amongst my favorite. The modern Cape Gun is a great idea, by the way.

Talked today to a person at Colonial Chokes. They make a rifled screw in choke for many shotguns. My question concerned the new Spartan shotguns. The CC man said that there was not enough width between the barrels for their extended choke with rifling to work. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

I was told at a SHOT show, by a manufacturer of choke tubes, that screw-in rifled chokes don't have enough grab for a long enough time to have any effect on the slug. My guess would be to just take a decent double to a good gunsmith and have him change the angle between the barrels so that they throw the slugs into a group at 70 yards. Most shotguns are built to have the barrels cross at 25 yards so it would just be a process of wedging the barrels a few thousandths farther apart.

I have tested slugs in two "twice bbled guns.
One a 12 gauge Browning Citori O/U, the other a Savage Stevens 311 SxS 20 gauge, with its bbls cut to 18 inches.
After testing several different slug loads both are capable of hitting a deer or pig with both bbls to around 45/50 yards.

With either my or my wifes Drilling slugs shoot good enough to hit a deer or pig out to 50 yards, any farther just use the rifle bbl.

Do a little testing., you may be suprised.

Chapuis makes a 12 guage double that is regulate for Brennekes at 50 yards. I think it is a smooth bore.