I have a 1989 Brno ZKK-602 in .416RemMag and the rifle consistently strings the groups vertically.
I had the action out of the stock today and I'm certain the problem is the blasted barrel screw.
I think the solution is to free-float the barrel ahead of the barrel screw and then glass bed the action from that screw back.
I would also install crossbolts in the stock.

I'm wondering if anyone else here has encountered this problem and could tell me if I'm looking at the right fix.

Is it a re-barrel or a re-bore? IIRC, BRNO never made a 416 Rem.

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quote:

Originally posted by ALF:
There is reported evidence that at the very end of the ZKK 602 run CZ actually chambered the 602 in 416 Rem mag.

I have never seen one in the flesh and if it is indeed one I would dearly like to make contact with Demonical to procure digi pics of the rifle and specifically the markings on the barrel.

If he ever decides to part with this rifle and if it is an original I would be most interested to procure it for my collection.

Thanks for the update ALF!

At least your addiction shows results!

full length bed should help.. floating in front probably won't.

jeffe

Action Arms imported them back in the early 90's. They sold barreled actions for sure, I purchased a 375 H&H in 1994 with hopes of rechambering it to a 375 Weatherby Mag. I remember they offered it in the 375 & 416 Rem Mag, don't know if they offered barreled actions in other calibers or not. I still have it setting in the safe with a Mcmillian desert camo stock that is waiting for me to start the project. I might eventually offer it for sale, who knows!

quote:

Originally posted by ALF:
There is reported evidence that at the very end of the ZKK 602 run CZ actually chambered the 602 in 416 Rem mag.

I have never seen one in the flesh and if it is indeed one I would dearly like to make contact with Demonical to procure digi pics of the rifle and specifically the markings on the barrel.

If he ever decides to part with this rifle and if it is an original I would be most interested to procure it for my collection.

Sorry, the rifle was originally a .375H&H that was rechambered and rebarreled to .416RM. I suppose I should have said that, but guess I just figured everybody would know that...

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
full length bed should help.. floating in front probably won't.

jeffe

Jeff when you examine the barrel channel there are distinct pressure marks where the barrel is contacting the stock, in a couple of places/ways that suggest that is the problem.

That's kinda why I am thinking the solution would be to freefloat the barrel area ahead of the barrel screw...

I would really recomend freefloating, but it depends on how you shoot it. If the first shot is important, and maybe one or two follow ups, and if you normaly hunt and shoot in a dry environment(like Texas),bedding it all the way like Jeffe says is a good idea. If shooting groops on the range is your main activity, and if you shoot and hunt in a moist environment, I would freefloat the whole barrel, and just bed the barrel screw, taking out a lot of wood and use a good steel-bed. Well, not the screw, of course, but the screwhousing on the barrel. I would even prefer a pillar here.

Bent I am a moose hunter primarily plus black bear. I live in Alberta, Canada and of course the moose hunt is during Sept/Oct, when any kind of rain, snow etc... can happen during a hunt.
The rifle is fine for the type of hunting I do right now. I mean it is accurate enough, but I cannot be satisfied with it. This caliber is capable of 300 yard accuracy so why not work over the rifle to maximize the trajectory it is capable of?
I am going to go ahead with my instinct and that is to freefloat the area ahead of the barrel screw. I will bed it and install crossbolts.
Thanks for the advice!

/

ALF,

Who did the stock work on that 375? Is that a worked over factory stock, or whittled from a fresh piece of wood?

Thanks,

LD

Alf always a pleasure to see your "addictions"!

Grind the barrel screw down flush wit the stock and then bed the barrel like any mauser 2 inches past the front of the action ring, rear tang and float the rest of the barrel. I'd personally add a real barrel mounted recoil lug and bed that also like you would the Mauser action recoil lug. I've done a bunch of CZ actions like that and no vertical stringing.-Rob