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A square 500 Brass needed and reloading info. Login/Join
 
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Members , I'm looking for any A square 500 head stamped brass or ammo that is available.

Any on hand info from members reloading this cartridge will be highly appreciated.

Regards


Jan Dumon
Professional Hunter& Outfitter
www.shumbasafaris.com

+27 82 4577908
 
Posts: 774 | Location: Greater Kruger - South Africa | Registered: 10 August 2013Reply With Quote
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Hi Jan

I know Francois Fourie who is a member of BASA shoots one. Don't have his contact details but will be able to source it.
Let me know.

Regards

Martinus
 
Posts: 410 | Location: South Africa | Registered: 12 November 2011Reply With Quote
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Picture of Badger Matt
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Shot you a PM, Jan.
 
Posts: 1266 | Location: Simpsonville, SC | Registered: 25 June 2006Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys. Much appreciated.


Jan Dumon
Professional Hunter& Outfitter
www.shumbasafaris.com

+27 82 4577908
 
Posts: 774 | Location: Greater Kruger - South Africa | Registered: 10 August 2013Reply With Quote
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The .500 A-square is very easy and predictable to reload. What do you need to know?


analog_peninsula
-----------------------

It takes character to withstand the rigors of indolence.
 
Posts: 1580 | Location: Dallas, Tx | Registered: 02 June 2006Reply With Quote
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Slight drift...

I understamd it is possible. Any advice to do one on a P14?
 
Posts: 694 | Location: JOHANNESBURG, SOUTH AFRICA | Registered: 17 January 2013Reply With Quote
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(blatant shill work here)
p14? DON'T!!

not joking, do a 500 accrel on a ruger or winchester instead --

say you spend 600 for a ruger -- and 1200 more for the gunsmithing work, barrel, sights, bluing (or not, if stainless) feeding and stock reinforcement -- and you are done ... 3 position safety, quick detach scope mount, good trigger,
decent stock, light weight, and burn 30-45 gr less powder for 500gr at 2350-2450... fireform rigby brass while awaiting midway to deliver your brass ...


but, sure, if you are determined to do one on a p14, it's all the standard stuff for a giant round, including the normal feeding issues -- i've done 3 enfields to 500 jeffe -- what a massive PITA for zero real world gain over the 500 accrel


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40241 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by analog_peninsula:
The .500 A-square is very easy and predictable to reload. What do you need to know?


I got sent a copy of the A square reloading book by Matt. Takes care of a lot of the data I need.

Do you own one ?

I still need Brass though. Preferably head stamped correctly. Any suggestions ?

Thanks


Jan Dumon
Professional Hunter& Outfitter
www.shumbasafaris.com

+27 82 4577908
 
Posts: 774 | Location: Greater Kruger - South Africa | Registered: 10 August 2013Reply With Quote
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quote:
p14? DON'T!!

not joking, do a 500 accrel on a ruger or winchester instead --


I concur, having weighed the options about 5-6 years ago.

A person should determine what the max load is that they want to shoot in a 500 caliber, then find a cartridge capacity that handles that relatively easily.
The 500 AccRel (short Rigby case with .510" bullet) handles 7000 ft pounds easily, though 7000 is a prudent max. The 500 Jeffrey loadings and factory 505Gibbs are less. (I only do buffalo and PG, and currently use loads with 450gnGSC at 2600fps and 360gn tipped CEB at 2850 (6500-6750 ft#),while waiting for local hunting to re-open.)

A person only needs to do a 500A2, 500 Jeffrey or 505Gibbs if they intend to shoot loads in the 7500-9000ft# range.
If not wanting 8000ft# loads, then the 500AccRel saves a lot of money and provides an opportunity for rifle tinkering. It also saves from possible concussive recoil. Even 6000-7000 ft# can give a head twinge on occasion. Recoil is 60-85 ft#, depending on bullet and rifle weight. My advice is to stop immediately and limit oneself to lighter caliber until another day. I typically plan on limiting myself to 12 shots of 500 per session. It is always important to prevent developing a flinch by only shooting when concentrating on the sight-picture.

Two sight-in shots, 100 yards, from two different shooters with a 6200-ft# 416Rigby:

Probably it was just luck, but the gun was ready for the hunt.

It was enough for impala and a 500 should have similar accuracy and shoot ability.

The heart was in pieces and blown off of the lungs:


+-+-+-+-+-+-+

"A well-rounded hunting battery might include:
500 AccRel Nyati, 416 Rigby or 416 Ruger, 375Ruger or 338WM, 308 or 270, 243, 223" --
Conserving creation, hunting the harvest.
 
Posts: 4253 | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Tanzan and jeffeoso , I will stick to the 500 A Square. It is left to me by a deceased dear friend of mine in France. It has lots of sentimental value. I might end up spending more money importing it than its monetary worth.
Recoil does not bother me much. The 600 has taken care of that. BOOM


Jan Dumon
Professional Hunter& Outfitter
www.shumbasafaris.com

+27 82 4577908
 
Posts: 774 | Location: Greater Kruger - South Africa | Registered: 10 August 2013Reply With Quote
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Yes, I own an original A2 rifle. I also own a copy of the A2 book.

1) Non-headstamped brass is very easy. Use a high quality case lubricant like Imperial Sizing Wax and slowly run a .460 Weatherby case through your .500 A2 sizing die, and you're set. That's all it takes. I don't believe that I've ever lost a case doing this. A while back I found some Norma .416 Weatherby brass on closeout for very cheap, so bought it. With .416 brass you can either run it sequentially through .460 Weatherby and .500 A2 dies, or simply use the cream of wheat method. You will lose the occasional case with either of these two methods, and I find the cream of wheat method to be the easier and more convenient of the two, particularly if you're processing more than 20 cases at a time.

2) Correctly heatstamped brass is a conundrum. Quality Cartridge claims they will make some when they have sufficient back orders. I actually picked up a batch of correctly headstamped Jamison brass on close out from Graf's a few years ago, but you can't count on that type of find. I think your best option is to pick up some Jamison .460 Basic brass which I don't believe has any caliber headstamp. It seems to be available, and I'd imagine it will run very neatly through your reloading dies. I believe no headstamp is considerably better than an incorrect headstamp when dealing with ignorant officialdom.

3) When I say the .500 A2 is easy and predictable to reload, I really mean it. If you don't insist on squeezing out that last 75 fps (which is pointless in a cartridge with so much velocity), you can freely use any of the 4064 powders, any of the 4895 powders, Benchmark, H335, and any of the 4350 powders, although the 4350 powders are a bit slow burning. In all cases, I've chrono'd my loads and found velocity to move very predictably as I've moved charges up and down. Generally speaking once you've got a few reference velocities, basic interpolation ( another two grains will get me an additional 65 fps ) is predictable.

4) Bullets. From your background I'm sure that you know far more about bullet performance on the biggest game than I, so I'll simply say that I've had no loading difficulty with any bullet that I've tried, including the various Woodleigh, Hornady, and Barnes version.

5) If your rifle is an original A2 rifle, I'll gladly PM you my loading data. Even if it's not, the data may be of some relative use, but you'll have to shoot some starter loads to establish some sort of velocity baseline.

quote:
Originally posted by Jan Dumon:
quote:
Originally posted by analog_peninsula:
The .500 A-square is very easy and predictable to reload. What do you need to know?


I got sent a copy of the A square reloading book by Matt. Takes care of a lot of the data I need.

Do you own one ?

I still need Brass though. Preferably head stamped correctly. Any suggestions ?

Thanks


analog_peninsula
-----------------------

It takes character to withstand the rigors of indolence.
 
Posts: 1580 | Location: Dallas, Tx | Registered: 02 June 2006Reply With Quote
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Picture of Jan Dumon
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by analog_peninsula:
Yes, I own an original A2 rifle. I also own a copy of the A2 book.

1) Non-headstamped brass is very easy. Use a high quality case lubricant like Imperial Sizing Wax and slowly run a .460 Weatherby case through your .500 A2 sizing die, and you're set. That's all it takes. I don't believe that I've ever lost a case doing this. A while back I found some Norma .416 Weatherby brass on closeout for very cheap, so bought it. With .416 brass you can either run it sequentially through .460 Weatherby and .500 A2 dies, or simply use the cream of wheat method. You will lose the occasional case with either of these two methods, and I find the cream of wheat method to be the easier and more convenient of the two, particularly if you're processing more than 20 cases at a time.

2) Correctly heatstamped brass is a conundrum. Quality Cartridge claims they will make some when they have sufficient back orders. I actually picked up a batch of correctly headstamped Jamison brass on close out from Graf's a few years ago, but you can't count on that type of find. I think your best option is to pick up some Jamison .460 Basic brass which I don't believe has any caliber headstamp. It seems to be available, and I'd imagine it will run very neatly through your reloading dies. I believe no headstamp is considerably better than an incorrect headstamp when dealing with ignorant officialdom.

3) When I say the .500 A2 is easy and predictable to reload, I really mean it. If you don't insist on squeezing out that last 75 fps (which is pointless in a cartridge with so much velocity), you can freely use any of the 4064 powders, any of the 4895 powders, Benchmark, H335, and any of the 4350 powders, although the 4350 powders are a bit slow burning. In all cases, I've chrono'd my loads and found velocity to move very predictably as I've moved charges up and down. Generally speaking once you've got a few reference velocities, basic interpolation ( another two grains will get me an additional 65 fps ) is predictable.

4) Bullets. From your background I'm sure that you know far more about bullet performance on the biggest game than I, so I'll simply say that I've had no loading difficulty with any bullet that I've tried, including the various Woodleigh, Hornady, and Barnes version.

5) If your rifle is an original A2 rifle, I'll gladly PM you my loading data. Even if it's not, the data may be of some relative use, but you'll have to shoot some starter loads to establish some sort of velocity baseline.

quote:
Originally posted by Jan Dumon:
quote:
Originally posted by analog_peninsula:
The .500 A-square is very easy and predictable to reload. What do you need to know?


I got sent a copy of the A square reloading book by Matt. Takes care of a lot of the data I need.

Do you own one ?

I still need Brass though. Preferably head stamped correctly. Any suggestions ?

Thanks


Thank you kindly for the info . It is indeed an original A2. It might have 40 rounds through the barrel. Many of them on Dangerous game and in my presence I might add. It is still in mint condition.
I will welcome any info on loads you find worked best for your A2.


Jan Dumon
Professional Hunter& Outfitter
www.shumbasafaris.com

+27 82 4577908
 
Posts: 774 | Location: Greater Kruger - South Africa | Registered: 10 August 2013Reply With Quote
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You have a PM.


analog_peninsula
-----------------------

It takes character to withstand the rigors of indolence.
 
Posts: 1580 | Location: Dallas, Tx | Registered: 02 June 2006Reply With Quote
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Jan Dumon:
Tanzan and jeffeoso , I will stick to the 500 A Square. It is left to me by a deceased dear friend of mine in France. It has lots of sentimental value. I might end up spending more money importing it than its monetary worth.
Recoil does not bother me much. The 600 has taken care of that. BOOM



quote:
Originally posted by AFRICAN LEADWOOD:
Slight drift...

I understamd it is possible. Any advice to do one on a P14?


Certainly - and i can feel ya --

however, my reply, and Tanz, was in someone wanting to build a new rifle on a p14


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40241 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Now that This thread has gone quiet I feel I can continue with a bit of a drift...

I asked one of my gunsmiths recently what nice rifles he had built on P14s and he answered "nobody has ever built a nice rifle on a P14". Of course it was somewhat tongue in cheek but many guys do dislike them and I think reworking them entails a great deal of work and cost.

That said I've seen beautiful P14 based rifles here on AR- of course with extensive reworking. Further another gunsmith of mine has built 500 J on them and his father did several 378 and 460 Wbys in the days when alternative donor actions were hard to source here.

Why I asked was because I recently acquired a "commerical" BSA factory sporting rifle built an an extensively factory reworked P14, with altered bolt handle and action with "ears" removed etc. It is chambered in 303 Br and I had considered using it as the basis for a build as I felt the worst of the work had already been done.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Posts: 694 | Location: JOHANNESBURG, SOUTH AFRICA | Registered: 17 January 2013Reply With Quote
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