Hello. This is to someone who knows more about trajectory programs than me. 375 H&H. Barnes Vor-TX ammo. 300 grain TSX FB. 2460 fps stated on box. Dead on at 100 yards. 187 yards rifle shoots 3 1/2" low. Can someone plot the ballistic chart from 0 to 300 yards for me based on this information? Thanks so much!

Go to this website and input info - https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

Thanks! This is pretty easy to use and is almost spot on for my reality.

For what it's worth, I sight all of my rifles 2 1/2" high at 100 yards. That includes my 270 Win, 375 Weatherby and 500 Jeffery. That puts all of them pretty much dead on at 25 yards (which is important to me) and even the 500 Jeffery is only 3" low at 200 yards. If I increase my 500 Jeffery handloads to 2510 fps with a 570g TSX sighted in at 2.5" high at 100 yards, it's dead on at 200 yards and just under a foot low at 300 yards. But ouch ouch ouch

There are simple programs online that can deal with any scenario: Go to Hornady.com for theirs. I installed one on my computer many years ago (don'nt know who created it) and it conforms precisely with Hornady's.

Bob
www.bigbores.ca

They all work if you KNOW the POI at 100, 200 and 300 yards with the 375..

All my gun are sighted in 3" high at 100, and its worked for me too 400 yards and at 500 if I walk another 100 yards!!

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Originally posted by Atkinson:
They all work if you KNOW the POI at 100, 200 and 300 yards with the 375..

All my gun are sighted in 3" high at 100, and its worked for me too 400 yards and at 500 if I walk another 100 yards!!

Now that’s funny right there Ray!

Understand the reasoning, but I sight in dead on at 100 which covers most of my shots and work from there, but I'm not likely to take shots over 300 yards.

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Originally posted by thirdbite:
Go to this website and input info - https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

I pay for ammoguide.com
Am I wasting my money ?
Thanks

Knowing the drop is fine, how about judging the distance?

How about how to aim 3 inches high?

Nothing beats field experience.

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Originally posted by brair:

quote:

Originally posted by thirdbite:
Go to this website and input info - https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

I pay for ammoguide.com
Am I wasting my money ?
Thanks

Why buy what you get for free?

No Worries!

The longer the shot----the harder I pull the trigger!

Hip

quote:

Originally posted by brair:

quote:

Originally posted by thirdbite:
Go to this website and input info - https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

I pay for ammoguide.com
Am I wasting my money ?
Thanks

i have paid for it since inception -- but i also support other important tools i use, for all the rest, for "free"

ammoguide is less than 2 bucks a month

In my 375 H&H the 300 grain TSX FB at 2480 fps is +2" at 100 yards and -10" at 300 yards at (2500 feet elevation, 72 degrees F with 20% humidity)

elevation, degrees, humidity and velocity??? Well I suppose that works if you have a cell phone and the buffalo is breeding a cow! or sleeping!

I use the free Hornady program. It works really well and has lots of variables and can handle more advanced calculations.

But you need the real muzzle velocity with a chronograph. Also, altitude makes the biggest difference - so always adjust for altitude with your ballistics chart. On my wife's 308 win, I have a custom label with yardage for 7K ft and then a reference card for windage and the additional clicks, if required, for 2K and 5K feet.

On our rifles, I sight 3" high at 100 yards for my fast magnums; 2" for everything else, though I do drop my 404J to 1" high when DG hunting.

Some 60 or 70 years ago Jack O sighted my 30-30 and 25-35 in 3" high at 100, and said it works on any caliber..my 270,30-06,250-3000, and all my bigbores have followed his advise.

Most calibers are 3" high at 100, 4 inches high at 200, dead on at 250 and 5 inches low at 300, 13 inches low at 400 and about a yard low at 500. this can vary slightly depending on caliber so I test each gun at those ranges in the desert behind my house, very few changes have taken place,and I can wiggle on or off a tag when hunting under field conditions..

Sighting in at 100 yards is doing ones self an injustice..

Ray,

I still have that little handbook "RIFLE and SHOTGUN SHOOTING BASIC" that came from Jack's book. The take away that I remember most was his recommendation of 3" high at 100. That just works. You just have to remember to hold dead on out to 300 with most modern calibers and high in the body at 400.

Mark

Another one for JOC’s advice on sighting in. I never can figure out some folks saying that 3 inches high will make you shoot over at closer and some even say longer ranges. How can it unless what your shooting at is less then 3 inches high?

Most miss by underestimating the trajectory of their bullet and over shoot the animal. Taking advantage of the trajectory by sighting in a little high at 100 yards lessens this. It’s just common sense.

What ever works best for the shooter. problem Ive seem many don't know whats best for them..we all have to adjust our opines from time to time, and we all have bad shooting days if were honest with ourselves.poop hapens.

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I never can figure out some folks saying that 3 inches high will make you shoot over at closer and some even say longer ranges. How can it unless what your shooting at is less then 3 inches high?

Here is a situation that all most cost me the biggest whitetail I have shot.

I sighted my No.1 30-06 3 inches high at 100. Why magazine writers BS. Was much younger back then.

Defiantly not needed in the big woods of northern Wis.

Early morning just a minute or so after first legal shooting time.

Buck was maybe 40 yards Under some big pine. So it was still fairly dark under the trees.

I could see the deer brought the rifle up couldn't make out the cross hairs on the deer. Raised the scope saw the cross hairs just about the deer's ribs.

Brought the cross hairs down when the scope was filled with deer I squeezed the shot off.


The deer jumped and ran about 50 yards out of sight. I moved quickly and saw the deer standing there. I told myself dead deer as I also had brought into the one shot one kill BS.

I then thought heck that a big buck so I give him another dead center to the shoulder.

When I looked him over I found the first shot cut a nice grove through his hair above the rib gage on top of his back.

Lesson learned no need to sight a rifle for long range when bunting a area where your average shot is under 100 yards.

Then if they are still moving shoot them again.

With the advent of multiple reticle scopes and laser range finders. I sight my rifle in so. The ballistics match the reticles.

Or if a cross hair or duplex 1.5 inches at a hundred. Those rifle with the plain duplex or cross hair are used in areas when shot distance well be shorter.

if you sight three inches high at 100 then you will be dead on at 25 yards. you don't shoot over at close range because your bullet is climbing up to about 250 yards depending on the exact cartridge.

For pdog he should sight in at 100 yds.

At most with the average scoped rifle will only be 1 1/2' low up to the 100 yds.

Seems everyone thinks hunting has to be at long range----there are many areas in the US that hunting is at very short range.

I think my longest shot on a white tail was about 90 yds.-----the shortest about 5 yds.

Hip

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When I looked him over I found the first shot cut a nice grove through his hair above the rib gage on top of his back.

You hit there because that’s where the rifle was pointing when you pulled the trigger, no other reason. We all miss or muff a shot sometimes that’s just hunting.

The aiming point and the bullets trajectory all have a factor that effects where a bullet impacts.

Just having a rifle pointed in the right directions is not the only factor

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Originally posted by Cougarz:

quote:

When I looked him over I found the first shot cut a nice grove through his hair above the rib gage on top of his back.

You hit there because that’s where the rifle was pointing when you pulled the trigger, no other reason. We all miss or muff a shot sometimes that’s just hunting.

I get your point, but technically that's not EXACTLY true - oh, yeah, i agree that where you aimed was a result of where you used LINE OF SIGHT - but there's only 2 places in a bullet's flight that it goes EXACTLY where aimed --

hear me out

Line of Sight (LOS) is a flat line (or plane, the semantics are real, but kinda pointless outside of wind drift -- nah, i won't go off on MORE of a tangent on possible wind directions) between your eye, sights, and target. This is NOT the path(arc) of the bullet

bullet patch is an ARC that crosses LOS twice - once around 25yards, assume a scope that is 1.5" above the bore, and once at the "zero" point - sure, you could have it zeroed at 25 yards, ... nah, i'll leave that specific tangent alone too - the ZERO point, where you have selected how to apply the arc of the bullet to be applied.. it can be deliberate "i zerod my rifle at 200 yards" or resultant "i zero my rifle x" high at y distance" -- which then has an unknown (but can be either derived or tested) actual zero point -

The method ray use, +3-3 pf rise/fall over run -to use 1900's words, with a total of 6" is using the maximum point blank range method (MPBR), there are PLENTY of online calculators that will give you your maximum hunting range, assuming a target diameter of your choice. BTW - a 375 hh set for 2.9" high has a 200 yard resulting zero, and, iirc, about a foot low at 300 (as for me, 200 is about my limit for unwounded game)

the other method, which renders like results, it to determine your maximum hunting distance, in my case, 200 yards is my MAX for mediums, and i tend to set big bores at 100 -- and let's be honest, while it's a FANTASIC round, the 375 is a medium - so, i may set my zero at 200 yards and sight it in for that distance - the net results will be more or less identical as the MPBR approach - BUT ..
(ray isn't going to like this very much, but he know it's true)

Sighting in a rifle at a 200 yard PROVEN zero will actually be "more" accurate than sighting it in a 2.9" high at 100, as expressed at 200 yards. It's easy to prove, and i've done it so many times it's kinda funny --

getting a nice group at 100 yards+2.9" is easy to do.. just put a red 1" dot @ 2.9" high on a 100 yard target and shoot away - you'll get there, i promise

BUT, which you move it to 200, the same rifle/load fine tuned at 100+2.9", you'll find you need to adjust the scope a little bit - the group might be a little off, in one or several directions, and tweaking it at 200 will result in smaller groups at both the 200 yards, AND, if you go back to 100 yards, the resulting groups will be smaller ...

and for everyone that is going to naysay this - how many times have you sighted in a rifle (or pistol) at 25 yards, and then found you 100 yard shots needed further refinement -- i'd say that number is close to 100%

Either way you do it, remember, shoot at hair, not at air -- if the critter is 300 yards, and you expect a 12" drop, put the crosshairs on HAIR - i have missed like EVERY shot i've taken at "air"

wow, lots of words today, jeffe
good hunting

Jeffe, Good post, Thanks, Brian

DArn good thread...proves what I learned the hard way
Then I found the very best part of hunting is the STALK.

The only thing better than a 100 yard shot is a 99 yard shot

You can long shots in the short stuff and short shots in the way out yonder!!

If you sight in 3" high at 100 take a center mass hold and you will hit at up to 300, hold on spine hair back line at 400,,,,Otherwise a miss is a flinch or just a miss from bad shooting, and that happens to everyone at times for various reasons such as scope failure, wood shrinkage, or what ever.

I agree Ray. I sight all my rifles 2 1/2" high at 100 instead of 3" so it's really never more than 3" high or low (for my 270 Weatherby) out to 300 yards Same for my 500 Jeffery out to 200 yards. But 3" high is the standard for western hunters.

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But 3" high is the standard for western hunters.

Different hunting areas require different Zeros.

But with very good multilabel reticle scopes. I have found a two hundred yard zero works very well with them.

With my main out west rifle a 700 300WM a Burris 3x9 with there long range reticle. It is a solid 3/4 inch rifle.

I have 4 aiming points cross hair 1.5 high at 100 dead on at 200, first dot a 300 2nd at 400 3rd at 500 and top of the bottom post at 600.

Yes I have shot and tested them at those ranges many times.

Laser the target pick the aiming point make the shot.

No need for a high 100 yard zero.

Well, using a 100 yard 0 in Zimbabwe in August ended working out pretty well with the .375. Only one shot at 125 yards on an impala, the rest of my shots ranged from 25 yards to 65 yards with stalking. Did pretty well too. Elephant, two buffalos, eland, giraffe and three impalas. I would agree though that where you set your 0 depends a lot on caliber and distances expected to be shooting. I don't set my .257 Weatherby with a 100 yard 0 ;?) Gary

Well. I have that ballistic turret on my Zeiss on .375. Sighted at 100 m. Anything else I can choose. I can use turret or just do holdover. I can just pull turret up, resight for 200 or 300 in a 1 second a keep it that way.

How simple and practical is this. With rangefinder in your hand, you are dead on spot with .375 H&H up to 350 m or so.

I use only one load in 375 for everything here. 300 gr Swift A-frame.

Jiri

Jeffeoso,

Great post. And I generally agree that the reasonable limit on the mediums should be 200. That said, I have shot one buffalo a bit over that and a kongoni at 300 with my .416.

I don't like "calculators", I trust actual experience and a ruler. With my .416, I sight dead on at 100 because most of my shots will be within that range. Under that distance, you are definitely "minute of buffalo." I don't like sighting in X" high with any rifle, medium or light.

With my main rifle a 400 grain Swift AFrame is about 6 inches low at 200 and about 21.5 inches low at 300. That's measured from actually shooting at those distances. I'm pretty comfortable to 200, but agree with Jeffe that beyond 200 is stretching it for a medium bore.

Where I've been negligent is that I have not actually shot the in-between distances, such as 150, 175, 250, etc. Need to do that, especially in the 150 to 175 range as you get a lot of shots in that range.

Another trick my father taught me if you shoot multiple rifles is to put a sticker on the cheekpiece with the exact ranges and drops so you can check quickly.

I'm having a light rifle built in .300WM that will have a ballistic turret. I'll still sight in dead on at a specified range, probably 100 because my main quarry with that rifle will likely be leopard and croc, but it will also pull other duty for most plains game, unless the .416 happens to be in my hand, which is usually the case.

Im going to stay with 3"s high as it works for me and I can use it under any and all sight in methods, under any conditions, anywhere in the world with a center mass hold up to 300 yards and a 1 ft hold over to be safe at 400. I've had long shots in the thickest of thick and close shot in flat lands..but to each his own as it should be I suppose.

I have never used any program.

My 375/404 is sighted at 1.5-2.0 high at 100 yards.

And I aim where I think is right.

quote:

Originally posted by Saeed:
I have never used any program.

My 375/404 is sighted at 1.5-2.0 high at 100 yards.

And I aim where I think is right.

What's the BC of your 300gr; MV and how far on average do you take shots of big game? Please.

Bob
www.bigbores.ca

Rule 1 of zeroing a rifle; Never zero anything dead on at 100 yards. Not unless you can always get within 150 yards of it, which AR members do not do.
You cripple any modern cartridge when you do that.
As far as knowing how much to hold over; I have fired literally thousands of rounds at up to 1500 meters. You watch the tracers, which come every 5th round, fire and adjust.
For main gun, you watch the impact, fire and adjust, although since the ballistic computer, you will usually hit the first shot. Up to 3000 meters.

This has been an excellent thread. Especially since I’ll be in northern Cameroon with Alan Vincent in two weeks and carrying my .375 H&H. It is zeroed for 100 yards, and scope is a Leupold VX5 in 2-10x with CDS. It’ll be adjusted for 125 yards and left there for the entire hunt. If I can’t hit an LD Eland with that setting, it won’t be because of the zero.

Also have the ‘Firedot’ illuminated reticle, which will be on constantly as I’m dealing with cataracts, so that little red dot will make aiming much easier.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
They all work if you KNOW the POI at 100, 200 and 300 yards with the 375..

All my gun are sighted in 3" high at 100, and its worked for me too 400 yards and at 500 if I walk another 100 yards!!

I nominate Ray for best post of the month with this one. I’m going to use this and I might even quote him!



RC