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Ruger RSM .416 Rigby questions... Login/Join
 
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I like what I hear about the ruger in .416 Rigby. The integral rib appeals to me. Problem is I have a longer LOP and need a minimum of 14". The Ruger LOP is 13.5. What is the recoil pad thickness? Will a 1" pad bring the LOP to 14"? Next, what modifications must be made to make the rifle completely dependable on dangerous game? Please don't suggest the CZ, they have no appeal to me.


Doug
 
Posts: 862 | Registered: 18 January 2005Reply With Quote
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You'll find that the ruger, with it's thin pad, is rather easy to get longer LOB

the feeding problem, with a previous mod, was throwing the last round of brass out.. This is fixed by eiher sending to ruger, or having a smith grind (assuming the muzzle i actually toward the smith) the top left upper corner of the rear bridge.

put one empty in the chamber, and you'll see.


other than that? simply the best off the shelf DGR for under 4k

jeffe


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
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Posts: 40081 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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nyrifleman,
Mine came with a 1" pad and the length of pull is 14". I read an article on African Hunter web site that mentioned a problem with ruger extraction when bolt is cycled very fast. At first mine did not seem to have this problem but sure enough, after a while it was in evidence. I don´t remember the name of the person who wrote the article but he sure knows his stuff! The groove that the ejector drops into is very short. I made it longer (about as long as the brno 602 has) and also made it wider at the back because I felt the slop in the bolt made it likely that sometimes the ejector failed to drop in, so this kind of funnels it in. I also drilled out the spring hole to 4mm and put in a stiffer spring. Another mention was the safety that was hard to get to in a hurry. I was afraid that putting on an extension would make it too easy to knock on accidentally so I just carry it in position 2 when in my hands and in position 3 with both trigger and firing pin blocked when the rifle is slung.
The sights were hard for me to see so I put on a NECG peep sight and drilled out the aperture to maximum. The front bead on the ruger was replaced with a NECG white bead (bigger) and I carry a sourdough bead and a smaller aperture in the trap door grip cap (also NECG). You could also just have a gold or white line put on the express sights and change the front bead. With just these simple things done this rifle is great and I have more confidence in it than in any other rifle including my customs.
Hope this helps.
 
Posts: 572 | Registered: 04 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks Jeff, John for the info. Aside from the feeding problems, any other recommendations?


Doug
 
Posts: 862 | Registered: 18 January 2005Reply With Quote
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You might consider having the bolt handle either lengthened or bent forward slightly. When I shoot mine, the bolt has a tendency to rap me on the trigger finger. I had my 'smith bend it forward very slightly, maybe 1/4" and problem solved. Anyone else have this problem?

Geronimo
 
Posts: 816 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 14 April 2004Reply With Quote
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Yah, my bolt was hitting my finger when I shoot with a heavy shirt. No problem with lightweight clothes though - don't know why. Maybe length of pull. Had mine modified with a 1" pad and an extra 1/2" spacer. Really tamed the rifle and all thoughts of a brake evaporated after this mod. Had an extra cross bolt installed and Ruger fixed my ejection problem - no charge. Haven't shot it much since Ruger fixed it but I have confidence in it that I didn't have before the repair. I really like mine.


Pancho
LTC, USA, RET

"Participating in a gun buy-back program because you think that criminals have too many guns is like having yourself castrated because you think your neighbors have too many kids." Clint Eastwood

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Posts: 941 | Location: Roswell, NM | Registered: 02 December 2002Reply With Quote
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nyrifleman,

The Ruger RSMs are IMHO the best bargains out there today in big bores. I have two RSMs, a Rigby and a Lott. The factory "pad" is bluntly and truly crap for a large round. Putting on a new pad is mandatory (Limsaver is my fav) and solves your LOP issue also. Trigger work might be called for (as in my two rifles) and just to be safe have them steel bedded. I have been lucky so far with my stocks staying intact but I am going to have them bedded to be safe and I would advise you to do the same. The wood on the RSMs is usually good, sometimes VERY good! I scope my rifles (Leupold 1.5-5s) so the small front bead hasn't been a big issue, but I will swap out mine for something more visible.

For anyone considering an RSM I say go for it. I have two CZ 550 Mags (375 and 416) and they have their strong points for sure. But the RSMs are NICE rifles, and I really like them. My RSM Lott is my favorite rifle in the safe, and the RSM Rigby isn't far behind Big Grin

John


There are those that do, those that dream, and those that only read about it and then post their "expertise" on AR!
 
Posts: 831 | Location: Mount Vernon, WA | Registered: 18 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Pancho- what is the LOP after your modifications?


Doug
 
Posts: 862 | Registered: 18 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I have a 416 Rigby Ruger that is a pretty good shooter. I'm a short stock man so don't have a length problem. I find the bolt problem to be really uncomfortable so I had bolt replaced with a longer straight handle. The stocks while nice wood are a little heavy so mine has been thinned considerably. 1" Pachmeyer Decellerator and has also been Mag-Na-Ported. Truly a pleasure to shoot. Have had NO feeding or ejection problems of any kind. All that said I prefer my CZ to the Ruger.


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Posts: 2786 | Location: Green Valley,Az | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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