I am trying to help a friend get an original sharps shooting. It is an original percusion gun converted to cart many years ago. It is in great mech shape barrel and action like new. It has anchors stamped all over it. He was told it was a 50/70. He shot some 50/70 shells out of it. Problem is the bullets tumble because the barrel measures over 50cal. It looks like new down the bore ,looks like it has 6 grooves? When they converted the old sharps I read they left barrels under .5225 as is. If so what bullets(lead) should it be loaded with and where can you get them. Maybe a 50calb hollow base? I load for my 45/110 but havent done any paper patch yet so am hoping not to go there yet.
Thanks
Dean

So, the barrel slugs what diameter in the grooves?
Going nowhere with this thread until you slug the barrel ... unless someone here is psychic?

Most original Sharps were 52 caliber. When they were converted to cartridges the barrels were replaced with 50-70 but if the original barrel was in good condition they left it and simply chambered it for a 52-70 cartridge. You may still be able to find 52-70 cases but they are very valuable collectors items. You'd have to search around to see if anyone is making reproductions.

Frankly, if that was my rifle I wouldn't shoot it even if I could find brass. Things like the hammer, firing pin, and the springs are all about 150 years old and could snap at any time. You'd have one hell of a time replacing some of the broken parts. Just the act of firing it will detract from it's collector value - the more you shoot it, the more value is lost.

But, it's yours so I can't tell you what to do with your stuff.

JMHO

Ray

55-100 Maynard with .551-caliber lead bullet is a much more interesting curio ...

funny enough, no one with a 550 express or mag or flanged... perhaps even a gibbs, has ever seen a maynard

55-100 Maynard unheard of?

Ah, but it is supposed to have been chambered in a .550 groove-diameter barrel in 1882, and they offered a smoothbore in the same single-shot action, with shot shells, equivalent to 28-guage.

The .550 is about as old as the .395.

The .666 is something entirely new, unique.

wrong! I had a two barrel set for several years. Sold it to a collector who was aghast that I was shooting the 32 barrel in Schuetzen matches. Sooo, I bought a Miller.

Rich
DRSS
Knowledge not shared is knowledge lost...

Tonto:
I'd try to find a hollowbase as close to .520 or larger as possible. You're a BP guy, so you know the slug needs to be pure lead and the powder needs to be black to get that crucial bump. Check NEI or Rapine for possible molds. Also consider trying some of the Sharps ring-tails if you can get them into the case. This thing surely will shoot if the bore is as nice as you describe.

Addensum: NEI makes a .525 395-grain bullet for the Spencer carbine that might be the nuts in the Sharps as well. It's bullet no. 379C.

I have a old sharps 50/70 cardridge conversion. The barrels are all different. Slug the bore then try and find a bullet mold that will cast .001 over bore diameter with 1:10 TIN:lEAD alloy. NEI had one in stock that worked perfectly in my sharps. Don't use a sizing die just cast and lube and shoot. It actually can be pretty accurate even if the bore isn't perfect. I made my own brass cases and used a case full of Goex cartridge.Lubed with SPG. Neat old gun and low stress shooting.-Rob

I did put a caliper in the bore. Its a bit over 52cal. I am planning on slugging the barrel. If I put a 52 calb bullet in the 50/70 brass I was wondering if the round will chamber? The chamber and bore are like new the chamber is if anything a little tight.
What I am being told is when sharps converted the older rifles to cartridge if the bore was under .5225 they left them as is if over that they rebored and lined the barrel. If 6 groove the arent lined as the lined barrels are 3 groove.
Brass is no problem for 50/70 now you can buy loaded rounds problem is they are for a true 50 calb barrel.
Ill slug the barrel and make up my mind then.
Thanks
Ps the guy bought the gun to shoot and will sell it if it doesnt shoot.( I personaly would have bought a new repro myself)
Pss Rip thanks for pointing out my stupidity.

minie balls!

Jeffe
Lets not get personal
Dean

Slug the bore by putting some paper down the muzzel .5 inches or so and pouring in some pure lead. Then drift the poured slug down the barrel with a brass rod. Measure the diameter at four different positions and average your results. Whatever it is get NEI or a custom mold maker to make you a mold .001 over bore diameter with 1:10 tin/lead alloy. Lube with SPG. Be sure you select a bullet style and weight identical to what was used in the Sharps otherwise it won't be sure to shoot to the sights. With a drop tube add 50 gr of Goex Cartridge, load the bullet and death crimp and go shooting. My Sharps original with a crappy bore will still shoot 2.5-3" groups at 100 yrds. Sometimes better.-Rob

Thanks for the help. I slugged the bore Its between .521 and .528. I found a soft lead hollow base bullet at .522 I think I will try first. Its 400 grains I think thats light but If it doesnt tumble we can look for a heavier one.
Dean

I'm surprised at .007 difference? Thats way too much. When you push the slug down the bore is it getting looser or tighter? Did you Try the poured lead slug technique I described?-Rob

Rob
I didnt get to pour it yet I pushed a very soft lead slug. I think the difference is looking bigger than it is because I had to use calipers as my micrometers are with my son. I was checking some once fired brass and the inside of the brass is only .522. If I try and push anything bigger in the case do you think it will chamber? My micros are on thier way. I get to replace and Audi head gasket on my sons car I think?
Dean