Is there a preferred or recommended shooting stance for hard kicking big bores?

I don't know if it is "the proper way..." to shoot a hard kicker off hand or not, but I have found that for my Ruger No. 1/458Lott(pretty hard w/ full house loads!) I use the method I have used in highpower off hand shooting and that is standing sideways, feet about shoulder width apart, rifle held firmly against the shoulder, not loosely, and upon discharge/firing I tend to roll w/ the punch and the firearm will tend to rotate somewhat to the right and up. I don't place my forearm hand forward, but back more and it seems to work for me. Some advocate a "frontal" aggressive lean into the rifle, but for me I have more felt recoil that way than the method I describe above. The old NM '03 Springfield I used for a number of years can kick you quite a bit and doing it the way I describe you "roll" with the recoil. Again, this method works for me and sure others have different approaches. Either way, that No.1 has a strong response when fired even w/ a mercury recoil reducer and pad to boot. Any time you are "hunkered down" as on bench or even with those sticks(don't like them at all)recoil is punishing. Hang on tight and roll with the punch as they say.

Each to his own, but while the above may work with Lott size recoil, with the 500 and above bores, if you dont lean a little forward, the recoil pushes you back a step; at least, it does to me, and i have to take a step back. also important is good cheek weld and a firm grip on the fore-end ( to prevent the weapon torquing out of your hands); some advocate pushing forward with the right hand while pulling back with the left. I have tried it, and it does attenuate the recoil, but at the expense of accuracy.
In other words, shooting off hand, if I pull-push, I cant hit the target reliably. But if you just want to let a 600 nitro off, push pull will be very useful in preventing retinal detachment!

I appreciate these and any more replies. The exact gun will be a 9 to 10 pound custom Mauser w/ scope in .416 Rem Mag.

My gunsmith recommends standing feet about shoulder width apart and facing the target, which he says allows the gun to rise more or less straight up. He doesn't put his left hand far down the forearm or even half way down. That's really why I was asking about this. With magnum shotguns and '06 rifles I've always put left foot in front, body angled right and leaning into the recoil with the stock or forearm gripped pretty far down. But in most cases, that hasn't been with big bore rifle type recoil.

The other way seems to go against what I always thought about the left hand doing the real work on pointing and aiming. Being over 6' and with long arms, holding the stock or forearm nearer the end is a lot more comfortable and I can control the gun far better, especially when swinging on moving targets. I guess if it's not a moving target, maybe that's different.

quote:

Originally posted by Shack: With magnum shotguns and '06 rifles I've always put left foot in front, body angled right and leaning into the recoil with the stock or forearm gripped pretty far down. But in most cases, that hasn't been with big bore rifle type recoil. Being over 6' and with long arms, holding the stock or forearm nearer the end is a lot more comfortable and I can control the gun far better, especially when swinging on moving targets. I guess if it's not a moving target, maybe that's different.

Don't change a thing! Your thinking correctly and do the same with your 416.

quote:

Originally posted by dirklawyer:

quote:

Originally posted by Shack: With magnum shotguns and '06 rifles I've always put left foot in front, body angled right and leaning into the recoil with the stock or forearm gripped pretty far down. But in most cases, that hasn't been with big bore rifle type recoil. Being over 6' and with long arms, holding the stock or forearm nearer the end is a lot more comfortable and I can control the gun far better, especially when swinging on moving targets. I guess if it's not a moving target, maybe that's different.

Don't change a thing! Your thinking correctly and do the same with your 416.

x2

quote:

Originally posted by Shack:
My gunsmith recommends standing feet about shoulder width apart and facing the target, which he says allows the gun to rise more or less straight up. He doesn't put his left hand far down the forearm or even half way down.

DUMB!

shoulders Slightly angled, feet slightly angled, weight slightly forward, pull BACK with your off hand, push DOWN with you on hand, and let the gun roll slightly up and slightly towards your onhand (right in my case)

Straight up means you get hit with the WORST possible recoil, as the patch on the pad decreases as the engle increases.

Your gunsmith must not shoot big bores much

Here is what I do:

Get more or less square to the target, but not completely square, and lean in on your rifle and toward what you are shooting at. DO NOT stand as a target shooter stands, perpendicular to the target and with a straight back!

Hold and grip the stock where it's checkered, deep in the palms, and with all of the fingers, of both hands. Really hold on to that sucker!

Then make sure you keep the buttstock firmly pulled in, with both hands, and locked in the shoulder pocket.

Get a good hard cheek weld.

Then squeeze off your shot and roll with the recoil.

If you are really good, you can cycle the bolt and be ready to do it again when the sights come back on target!

At least that's what you should work toward being able to do. It takes time and practice, or practice and time, I'm not sure which.

quote:

Originally posted by mrlexma:
Here is what I do:

Get more or less square to the target, but not completely square, and lean in on your rifle and toward what you are shooting at. DO NOT stand as a target shooter stands, perpendicular to the target and with a straight back!

Hold and grip the stock where it's checkered, deep in the palms, and with all of the fingers, of both hands. Really hold on to that sucker!

Then make sure you keep the buttstock firmly pulled in, with both hands, and locked in the shoulder pocket.

Get a good hard cheek weld.

Then squeeze off your shot and roll with the recoil.

If you are really good, you can cycle the bolt and be ready to do it again when the sights come back on target!

At least that's what you should work toward being able to do. It takes time and practice, or practice and time, I'm not sure which.

That's pretty much the technique that I use and with my 450 Dakota or my Lott the muzzle doesn't rise but a few inches and my cheek never comes off the stock.

I don't have any hard kicking big bores like the monsters used by many here. My big rifle is a classic 12.5x70 Schuler. I love this rifle and shoot hundreds of rounds a year thru her both 535 gr and 600 gr. I shoot from several different positions and find mental commitment to be the most important element.

10 lb .416 is a pussy cat. Enjoy it.