I picked up a slightly used Kimber Caprivi in .375 H&H that was already scoped using Talley QD mounts. I've read good things about Talley and figured I would give it a try. Fortune smiled upon me and I stumbled into another good deal for a Caprivi in .458 Lott which I need to scope.

My inclination is to put on Talley bases and scope both rifles using Talley QD rings. I haven't decided but am leaning towards the Leupold VX-6 1-6x24 for the Lott, and possibly the Leup. VX-6 2-12x42 for the .375. If and when I get to Africa, I have a simple backup scope plan with this system, and would likely bring along the 375's original Zeiss 3x9 in its Talley rings just in case.

Have you big bore shooters used the QD Talley rings and have you experienced any problems? Both Leupold scopes are listed as having 3.8" of eye relief. That seems to be as good or better than most similar scopes. Sufficient?

Many thanks! I have some time behind a .375, a .45-90, and a .50 BMG with brake, but not a true big-bore hunting rifle.

In my opinion, putting Talley QD's on ANY rifle is a great idea. They are my standard go-to setup. If you are concerned about the QD versus the standard ring attachment, keep in mind the difference is a lever versus a torx screw. They both engage the base the exact same way, just the method of tightening is different. Make SURE BOTH rings are tight against the the FRONT of the base when mounting. I have seen some people ignore this, or have the front ring pushed forward and the back ring pushed rearward. Bad idea. When the gun goes off, the scope will want to move forward, keeping both rings tight to the front shoulder eliminates ANY forward movement. When I mount a scope, I make sure the front ring is tight against the shoulder then tighten the screw or QD lever, then do the same with the rear. Then I tighten the top screws last. A bullet-proof setup in my experience. Good luck.

That's what I have on mine with no complaints.

I have used Talley detachable rings on a 375 ultra mag and 416 Rigby with no issues whatsoever. They just plain work.

The Talleys will work just fine, but be damn sure you put max pressure on the levers with a 458 Lott...Any big bore with a scope should have QD mounts and a clear view of the iron sights..I use the Talley peep with the QD's as opposed to barrel mounted or if I have barrel mounted I file down the one standing and use the flip ups as backups. The .458 is rough on scopes and the only scope I would trust is the 2.5 Leupold compact its designed for heavy recoil. Big scopes on big bores is a accident looking for a place to happen, small compact short scopes work best when you reach that much recoil...IMO The Lott is one of the worst offenders in recoil out there, worse than the 500s or 600s IMO., but felt recoil is a personal thing with folks.

I take it both rifles have iron sights?

Thank you all for the reassurance on Talley QD!

Both rifles are Kimber Caprivis with iron sights. I already confirmed that you can easily acquire and use the iron sights with the scope removed but Talley bases in place.

I'm leaning towards using the Leupold VX-6 1-6x24 on the .458. Leupold says it has 3.8" of eye relief. I'm not a scope-crawler and still have no scar above my right eye. Is that usually going to be sufficient? It looks like for greater relief, I'd need to go to the VX-3 1.5-5x20 with 4.4" of relief.

Idaho Sharpshooter, I'm around Eagle. Where are you in SW Idaho?

He is in Nampa, about 5 miles from me

I usually shoot at Emmett, but would be pleased to meet up with some of you at the Nampa range sometime.

I have talley rings and bases on my 460wby, have not moved, a great setup, will handle the lott with ease

quote:

Originally posted by BaxterB:
In my opinion, putting Talley QD's on ANY rifle is a great idea. They are my standard go-to setup. If you are concerned about the QD versus the standard ring attachment, keep in mind the difference is a lever versus a torx screw. They both engage the base the exact same way, just the method of tightening is different. Make SURE BOTH rings are tight against the the FRONT of the base when mounting. I have seen some people ignore this, or have the front ring pushed forward and the back ring pushed rearward. Bad idea. When the gun goes off, the scope will want to move forward, keeping both rings tight to the front shoulder eliminates ANY forward movement. When I mount a scope, I make sure the front ring is tight against the shoulder then tighten the screw or QD lever, then do the same with the rear. Then I tighten the top screws last. A bullet-proof setup in my experience. Good luck.

Not true. Talley rings come in qd with levers or with torx screws. But also fixed. The fixed are different and don't have the clamp plate. So the fixed rings cannot be removed without upsetting scope alignment.
Don

That's a true statement - the true fixed have the single screw on the top. Yes, the lever and torx are both technically QD.

I agree with Don markey.
That is an issue with a vertical split ring system with Talley or Warne.
QRW horizontal split system totally separates the base gripping function from the scope gripping function and is potentially stronger, with better return to zero.

This is not returnable-to-zero with a Torx screw:



Nor this:



But this is:



Talley calls the last one above "screw detachable" and it is offered for 7/8" scope tubes.
That one should return to zero at least as well as the Talley Lever-QD ring:

England,

check your PM's.

The VX6 is a pretty heavy scope. I would make sure my bases were attached with 8/40 screws.

I have never used Talley and one reason is I don't like vertical split rings.

However, it is worth noting if you go via Wby custom shop and want your special rifle including Wby doing the scope mounting (not fucking cheap )then unless you specify otherwise the rifle will come with Talley mounts and whether the calibre is a 257 or a 460.

But just because Talley work does not mean that cross slot mounts with horizontal split are not superior.

But I think Talley rings look good. Perhaps why they are seen so often on Leupold photos and so many custom wood guns.

But get to rifles that are accuracy guns and in both small and larger calibres then Talley are very thin on the ground.

I have the Tally QD rings on 3 of my harder kicking rifles, Ruger #1's in .375 H&H and .458 Win and a CZ 550 in .375 H&H and have experienced no problems. They hold the scope securely and give an excellent return to zero. It is a bit tricky to install the rings on the scope and rifle and to get things aligned.

So I've heard pretty much all good and nothing bad about Talley Rings on hard kickers.

I just got off the phone with the fellow at Talley and a set of 1" QD's for my 460 Weatherby should be here in about a week.

The guy was friendly and helpful and gave me a couple tips on how to keep it from slipping.

Have Talley QR,s on my 458 Lott and they worked well. Just tighten them down well and your good to go.

I have Talley's on my Caprivi .458 Lott. Nothing wrong with Talley bases and rings. Don't forget to get the Talley peep that fits on the rear base. I really like mine and frankly, tend to use it as a primary sight.

I'm thinking about getting a Doctor or other holographic sight that would mount on the front base and forgetting about a scope on that rifle.

It's been hard on scopes and in my opinion the eye relief on the Leupold scopes is marginal for this rifle, but perhaps I crawl the stock -- I've never been cut, but I've been "kissed" and it's in the back of your mind.

quote:

Originally posted by Joe from So. Cal.:
So I've heard pretty much all good and nothing bad about Talley Rings on hard kickers.

I just got off the phone with the fellow at Talley and a set of 1" QD's for my 460 Weatherby should be here in about a week.

The guy was friendly and helpful and gave me a couple tips on how to keep it from slipping.

do you mind sharing?

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Joe from So. Cal.:
So I've heard pretty much all good and nothing bad about Talley Rings on hard kickers.

I just got off the phone with the fellow at Talley and a set of 1" QD's for my 460 Weatherby should be here in about a week.

The guy was friendly and helpful and gave me a couple tips on how to keep it from slipping.

do you mind sharing?

Please forgive my naivete but are you asking for some photos, my experience pulling the trigger with them or something else?

quote:

Originally posted by Joe from So. Cal.:

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Joe from So. Cal.:
So I've heard pretty much all good and nothing bad about Talley Rings on hard kickers.

I just got off the phone with the fellow at Talley and a set of 1" QD's for my 460 Weatherby should be here in about a week.

The guy was friendly and helpful and gave me a couple tips on how to keep it from slipping.

do you mind sharing?

Please forgive my naivete but are you asking for some photos, my experience pulling the trigger with them or something else?

no, no just the tips given to you to keep it from slipping ....

Don Markey,
Not true?, that's BS, I had a 458 lott blow the Tally mounted scope off, cut my glasses in half at the nose piece, and cut a chunk out of my forehead..

That said I have used Talleys for years and those folks are good friends of mine but you better lock that scope down tight, tight, tight, with the 458 Lott and the 500s..more than finger tight. Finger tight may be OK with lighter calibers but never the less I have a little two inch piece of arrow shaft with a wood insert knob handle, that I use as a lever to snug them up just a bit better than finger tight..Carry it in my shell holder.

But to each his own, no skin off my nose!

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Don Markey,
Not true?, that's BS, I had a 458 lott blow the Tally mounted scope off, cut my glasses in half at the nose piece, and cut a chunk out of my forehead..

But to each his own, no skin off my nose!

Close enough Ray!

That is a good idea with the lever cheater bar. I sometimes find I have done mine up too tight, or the recoil helps tighten them, then have to lightly hammer the lever.

Cheers, Chris

Its a handy little tool, I fancied mine up with a knob of nice walnut, didn't have anything to do that day!!

Ray I was referring to the fixed/qd being the same except for the lever. I said nothing about the suitability for use in a big bore. FYI I prefer the screw lock for hard kickers and just carry the little el shaped wrench they include.
Don

Sorry for the misunderstanding..I agree that the screw lock and a L wrench is a good idea, I also think custom fitted bases, both to the action and also the slots are a good idea. I'm sure my experience with the scope coming off and getting me between the eyes prejudiced my opine!

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Joe from So. Cal.:

quote:

Originally posted by medved:

quote:

Originally posted by Joe from So. Cal.:
So I've heard pretty much all good and nothing bad about Talley Rings on hard kickers.

I just got off the phone with the fellow at Talley and a set of 1" QD's for my 460 Weatherby should be here in about a week.

The guy was friendly and helpful and gave me a couple tips on how to keep it from slipping.

do you mind sharing?

Please forgive my naivete but are you asking for some photos, my experience pulling the trigger with them or something else?

no, no just the tips given to you to keep it from slipping ....

He said a dab of nail polish inside the rings should do it. Not so much as to squish out.

Atkinson and Don Markey, you have me thinking.

The scope I'm mounting on my 460 Wby is a little 4x fixed Leupold that doesn't weigh much and offers very good eye relief.

I'm waiting for another rear base because the scope is so short it doesn't quite span the bases enough and the gentleman at Talley says he has a special base to accommodate this.

This is the first scope I'm mounting on a real hard kicker and these Talleys look like they're up to the task. I'm using the QD levers and not the torx screws.

Just curious you guys, were the scopes you were using a little on the large and/or heavy side?

I recommend finger-tight only with the Talley QD lever rings.
Use the "Atkinson Tool" only to ease taking them off, do not over tighten with the cheater pipe.
All Talley QD levers are kind of puny on the size and strength of the threads on the lever screws.
I learned my lesson on one set, so I keep this set around as a parts source for other Talley sets:










Unrelated to this Talley weakness, you can see some residue of silicone adhesive remaining inside the rings above.
It is easily removed with a fingernail, steel wool, then Gunscrubber and a tooth brush to remove all chemical traces.
I just didn't finish cleaning up this set, because I will not be using them again.

Nowadays, I just stick with horizontally split rings, and apply the silicone only to the lower half of the rings.
Apply it liberally and let it squeeze out when the rings are tightened.
After it is hardened, it is easy to peel off any excess. Invisible internally then, much better than a little dab of fingernail polish inside the rings.



As you see, Talley rings for CZ exist in different forms, but there are other brands I like better for hard kicking rifles:
CZ-OEM for CZ rifles with CZ integral bases.
Ruger-OEM rings for rifles with Ruger integral bases.
Leupold QRW rings on QRW bases or picatinny rails (add Burris X-Treme Tactical, Badger, Leupold Mark 4, etc.) for rifles with no integral bases.

CZ-OEM rings work great on MRC M1999 PH actioned rifles too, if you torque the main mouting screws to 60 - 65 inch pounds, as recommended by CZ.
That wouuld certainly strip out a Talley main mounting screw.

Here are the CZ-OEM rings, on a .408 Chey-Tac MRC PH.
1" 2-ring application for a Zeiss 3-9x40mm, used because the tube on this scope was long enough to fit on the PH with 2 rings, would not allow 3 rings.
30mm 3-ring application for a monster Tasco Custom Shop 10-50X56mm with 6"-long sunshade added: No fears of scope ring failure here either, but will the scope hold up?























Spot the silicone adhesive squeezed out of the lower ring halves above?
That will be easily peeled away after hardenting.
Ross Seyfried recommended using "3M brand Liquid Electrician's Tape." I found the RTV silicone adhesive/sealant works great, found at automotive parts/hardware store.

I also replace the beefy slotted-head main mounting screws on CZ rings with metric hex head screws

M6-1.0x25mm Socket Cap Screw

also found at the automotive parts or hardware store.
That way the QD lever can be carried in your pocket.



The homemade QD lever conversion above is a silly, failed experiment, sticks out too far, snags clothing and brush.
The 5mm hex wrench in pocket is much better.
Better than a cheater pipe on a Talley lever.
The CZ main mounting slotted-head screws, or the hex socket cap screw replacement, can easily stand up to 65 inch-pounds torque, as specified by CZ.
That 5mm hex wrench is a heck of a good Atkinson Tool.

As usual your expertise in such matters is beyond comprehension,I'm so grateful.

HA ha ha Ray! Thanks anyway!

But let me continue. I do glue my bases, any bases on any rifle, if I cannot get integral scope mount bases.

I use JB Weld if I want it more permanent, and plan to have to get the stuff heated to 600 degrees F to get it off.

But the clear epoxy, generic 4-Hr, 24-Hr, or Acraglas will do and it comes off easily and quickly, with much lower heat, from a propane torch applied to the screws in the bases.
Barreled action is removed from stock and wrapped in wet towels for that torching and unscrewing, of course.

Here is my old Ruger Roundtop made in 1975 when the option for nonintegral scope bases still existed.
On the M77 tang-safety-equipped pushfeed the contour Ruger used matched the Remington M700 precisely.
Leupold Mark 4 bases for the Remington M700 LA do not require shimming on this Ruger 30-06 rifle.
But I did have to cut off the rear base with a RotoZip tool and a file to keep it from overhanging the rear bridge or ejection port.

I had some old aluminum Weaver bases epoxied onto it before, but now I don't:














Excuse the stock please. It is a Brown Precision fiberglass stock that came to me as bare-naked-fiberglass and meant to fit a short action Ruger M77.
I did the internal boat building to lengthen it to 30-06, then glass bedded it everywhere, used some texturing of epoxy to make grip panels on the outside of it, and spray painted it with Krylon.

I have had this rifle since 1978, and still have it because it will put 3 shots into a half inch at 100 yards, if I do my part.
That is amazing from a 1975 vintage Ruger.
Who made the barrel back then when Ruger was getting them from outside suppliers?
Wilson?
Douglas?
I heard once that Douglas sent Ruger their reject barrels, and every now and then a good one got through to Ruger.
Ruger has long since learned to make excellent barrels for themselves, judging by latest Ruger Rifles I have tested.

I have Talley QDs on my 375H&H, 400H&H and 458 Lott. When ever one of these guns follows me to the range I shoot them with their irons as well as their scopes. I have shot hundreds of rounds through all of these guns and have never had a problem. All screws are torqued using a fat wrench and the levers are hand tightened so I may be able to remove them when needed.

Well Rip I think the torx screw was the best thing for scope mounts since sliced white bread..a glassed 6/48 Torx is plenty strong, but I still go with 8/40 torx, even though its questionable they are needed, it makes me feel better.

Wold the rear receiver ring on a Mark V Wby be thick enough to be done as 8 X 40 screws?

quote:

Originally posted by Michael McGuire:
Wold the rear receiver ring on a Mark V Wby be thick enough to be done as 8 X 40 screws?

Of course, why not?

With your counsel, I am shimming my Mark V that uses 8x40 Torx screws, the rear base is coming up about 20 thou prouder, and JB Weld on the 8x40 Torx screws.
The front base is staying unchanged, "8x40-ed and glued on."

I have made my shims from three thicknesses of disposable aluminum pie pan. Each one .007" thick.
Those Leupold Mark 4 bases for a Remington M700 LA are too perfect otherwise to waste.
From the other thread about "gluing bases":

quote:

Originally posted by RIP:
I just removed a Leupold Mark 4 rear base that was JB Weld glued onto a Weatherby Mark V 500 Bateleur (.510/.338 Lapua Magnum Improved).



The JB Welded front base will be left as is:



It took 10 seconds of a tiny blue cone of propane torch applied to each screw in the base, with the barreled action wrapped in wet wash cloths in a vise with rubber jaw protectors.

After removing the two screws, heat and unscrew first screw then heat and unscrew second screw, the base just fell off.

Then I played the tiny blue propane cone of flame (adjusted about as low as would keep burning) over the residual JB Weld left under the base, on the rear receiver bridge, for about 10 seconds total.
Then a bronze bristle brush was used to scrape off the JB Weld, pretty as you please.

I am leaving the front base on the rifle alone.
The rear base needs to come up .020" by shimming.
I will do that with a metal shim of layers of aluminum pie pan dental X-ray film packaging foil (a lead alloy) and more JB Weld.

The Weatherby Mark V has the same hole spacing and contours as the Remington LA BDL, but the Mark V rear bridge is about 20 thou lower than the BDL, not quite the same.
Since I just decided this must be true from the excess use of elevation adjustment to zero this rifle, I had to un-do the JB Weld on the rear base.
No problem at all.

Riflecrank Internationale Permanente

quote:

Originally posted by RIP:

The Weatherby Mark V has the same hole spacing and contours as the Remington LA BDL, but the Mark V rear bridge is about 20 thou lower than the BDL, not quite the same.

But don't forget Jap/German models are Rem 700 all the way except of course for shorter screws in rear base. I believe Mark Vs (at least the 9 lug action) are now made in house....wold be interesting to see if they corrected the fuck up with the rear bridge thickness when moving from Japan to Made in US about mid 90s.

I asked about 8 X 40 screws because with 6 X 48 there is only about three threads or turns, that is, the screw hole is about the depth equal to the diameter of the 6 X 48 screw.

Although I have never had an issue with the 6 X 48s and a screw/glue on either 378, 416 or 460 Wbys.

Mike,
There is plenty of room for more than 5 threads of 8x40 to engage the rear reciever. 40 tpi only needs 1/8-th inch (0.125") to engage 5 threads: 5/40 = 0.125

Done:









This is a "Eurolux" 30mm-tubed 2.5-10X56mm mildot reticle scope that I have had no use for in the last 15 year. Picked it up cheap at a gunshow.
It is now a beater on a 500 Bateleur, the .510-caliber/.338 Lapua Magnum Improved below.







All I need now is a switch-barrel for .264/.338 Lapua Magnum Unimproved ... Riflecrank Internationale Permanente

Ron,

A 510 on the 338 Lapua (improved ?) is an interesting way to go, plenty of room in the Mark V magazine. I see yo have the extended magazine

By the way that stagger load but fed inline is what the 224 Wbys were. Roy knew what he was doing.