I don't have any idea what sub forum this should b in . Moderators feel free to move this thread to where it should be.

But, to the topic at hand .
Does anyone know of a site that rates gun safes ??
I'm looking for maximum fire protection and good theft proofing. Probably in the 24-30" wide range.

Just a quick search of the Internet came up with these:

http://www.gunsafecritics.com/
https://thegunsafes.net/
http://gunsafereviewsguy.com/b...guide/best-gun-safe/
http://www.brownsafe.com/categ...itor_Comparison.html
http://www.gunsafecritics.com/...ng-guide-the-basics/

Look through AMSEC's web site. They are UL and ETL (what ever that is) certified:

http://www.amsecusa.com/product/fv6030e5/

I've had an AMSEC safe for 30 years. If you are near a decent size locksmith company, go in and talk to them, they'll give you the best information. Most safe companies had to give in to the "China factor" - all of their low to mid grade safes are made there. If you're lucky, the higher end (better) will be actually made in the USA.

I went with Liberty Safes. Lots of options and good customer service

I watched a destruction testing vid for Liberty safes last night. I was very impressed with the AMSEC fireproof ability. I really don't have a preference at this point between digital and tumbler locks. Except the tumbler doesn't need batteries.

Check out Sturdy Safe. They are great people and make a great safe in the USA.

A lot depends on where you placing them what your major concern is.

I own a Cannon and a liberty they in in a corner of the basement in a harden room with extra fire protection built in.

If one can add extra protection to the area around the safe or the area they are place in.

Building in dead air space adds a huge amount of fire proofing. building extra protection to the access adds a lot of theft protection.

It is a lot cheaper to add some layers of sheet rock and good dead bolts to a room.

I added fireproof paint to the cabinet I placed the safes in.

Adding five min of extra access time is huge in a burglary situation.

A couple inches of sheet rock added to the walls ect with dead air space adds a huge amount of fire protection.

I have a Sturdy safe and I am very pleased with it.I had to pay a team of movers to bring it in because it was heavy.I feel I got my moneys worth because it is high quality and did not get ripped off with the shipping cost.I asked them before buying it what upgrade did they think was worth getting in terms of reinforcement and got it with what was suggested.

CTF,

Remember that no matter how many guns they say their safe will handle it will not hold that many once you try to put them in there.

Mark

quote:

Remember that no matter how many guns they say their safe will handle it will not hold that many once you try to put them in there.

I think those numbers are all Winchester 94s and no scopes.

When I built my house I had my contractor put in bolts into the concrete for my safes. I also never leave the house without setting the alarm.

Finally, a little off topic, but code required my house to have a sprinkler system - had a fire department guy in the house and he said they are absolutely the best fire protection.

quote:

I think those numbers are all Winchester 94s and no scopes.

It's a PITA, but if you remove the bolts on the rifles, and stand them alternating muzzle up, muzzle down next to each other, you'll get a bunch more in the safe. I put the bolts on the shelf and mark them to make sure I know which rifle they go back into.

Have a friend that had 2 Browning safes in his home. Total loss of home and safe contents, Krieghoff etc.
On first floor of wood frame house and found in basement.
Fire Chief said papers stored in safes may have ignited and contributed to loss of safe contents.
Scott

If you really want protection, there are a few things to fully understand-

Gun Safes are not safes. They are Residential Security Containers. It's a totally different standard and set of requirements.

If you want a safe...buy a safe, not a residential security container.

Second- The safe is only the last line of defense. A solid home security system, strong doors, cameras, and so on...matter.

Fire is your biggest enemy in most cases. Even with a fire safe, you have major problems. Remember...it's not the fire, it's the soot, heat, water, and steam. That's what kills guns...not the flames.

Prevent fire at all costs.

One way to do this...build a simple room with good insulation and metal studs around your safe. Give them setback from walls and hot surfaces. Keep them 2-4 inches off the floor with airspace on all sides.

Lastly, safes love water. Buy the anti-rust products. A lot of great guns rust in a safe. Recoil pads don't age well with a gun on them. Carpet and felt can rust a gun where it is in contact.

Lots of CLP...and muzzle down storage.

Amsec is regarded as making the best safes in that business.

So, it seems I should build a concrete vault with a fire door . Then put a good gun safe INSIDE it.
I wonder how hard it is to drill thru an A500 gong plate ?

I wouldn't get too paranoid about it.I suggest to just buy a heavy, quality safe and use common sense.

quote:

Originally posted by Cold Trigger Finger:
So, it seems I should build a concrete vault with a fire door . Then put a good gun safe INSIDE it.
I wonder how hard it is to drill thru an A500 gong plate ?

A torch is much faster.

If your dealing with your normal burglars any thing that offers any amount of resistant's will most likely work.

Really professionals well bring what they need to get into any thing given enough time.

Fire is a real danger it is not hard to add extra fire protection. Cement board, sheet rock, fire proofing paint, mineral wool insulation. And the most important dead air space.

Basement stay a lot cooler in a fire if you have any type of fire response. I seen sub floors survive when the top was a total lost.

Of course a fully under ground vault built off the basement would be ideal.

Sometimes you can get more guns into a safe than expected. I know of one made for 11 guns that has 14, 12 butt-down between spacers. It could also take another hung on the door. The bolts have to come out, of course. Putting an extra shelf in the bottom allows the actions/butts of a couple of db shotguns to be stowed underneath, with the barrels propped in corners.

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:

quote:

Originally posted by Cold Trigger Finger:
So, it seems I should build a concrete vault with a fire door . Then put a good gun safe INSIDE it.
I wonder how hard it is to drill thru an A500 gong plate ?

A torch is much faster.

If your dealing with your normal burglars any thing that offers any amount of resistant's will most likely work.

Really professionals well bring what they need to get into any thing given enough time.

Fire is a real danger it is not hard to add extra fire protection. Cement board, sheet rock, fire proofing paint, mineral wool insulation. And the most important dead air space.

Basement stay a lot cooler in a fire if you have any type of fire response. I seen sub floors survive when the top was a total lost.

Of course a fully under ground vault built off the basement would be ideal.

Basements flood and have high humidity...

I used to love the thought of a basement room....until I pumped the water out of it and dealt with the mold for years.

No more basements.

No amount of drains, sealants, or pumps would fix it.

YMMV...

quote:

I used to love the thought of a basement room....until I pumped the water out of it and dealt with the mold for years.

All depends where it is located and the type of ground it is in.

quote:

Originally posted by lockingblock:

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:

quote:

Originally posted by Cold Trigger Finger:
So, it seems I should build a concrete vault with a fire door . Then put a good gun safe INSIDE it.
I wonder how hard it is to drill thru an A500 gong plate ?

A torch is much faster.

If your dealing with your normal burglars any thing that offers any amount of resistant's will most likely work.

Really professionals well bring what they need to get into any thing given enough time.

Fire is a real danger it is not hard to add extra fire protection. Cement board, sheet rock, fire proofing paint, mineral wool insulation. And the most important dead air space.

Basement stay a lot cooler in a fire if you have any type of fire response. I seen sub floors survive when the top was a total lost.

Of course a fully under ground vault built off the basement would be ideal.

Basements flood and have high humidity...

I used to love the thought of a basement room....until I pumped the water out of it and dealt with the mold for years.

No more basements.

No amount of drains, sealants, or pumps would fix it.

YMMV...

+1

A caution about putting safes or safe rooms in basements. In a serious fire, that basement will be filled up by water during fire suppression efforts. The upper floor contents may collapse into the basement in a serious fire, greatly delaying recovering the safe contents.

Sprinklers offer the best protection.

quote:

The upper floor contents may collapse into the basement in a serious fire, greatly delaying recovering the safe contents.

And that happens when your safe collapse's into the basement also.

If we are talking pure ideal best way to do it...

The safe would ideally be in a detached structure, strongly constructed, fire resistant, and with max security systems. A small building behind the house for example...metal door in a metal frame, opening out. No windows, a few skylights are ok.

Wire with spark arresting breakers.

Add fire sprinklers if you wish, but be aware that they can leak and it's messy.