OK so I got my .505 back with the new sights. Big improvement. Was cycling the action and noticed some bolt bind. If you put any lateral pressure on the bolt when it is in open position it seemed to lock up. Not good in a DG rifle. I took out my CZ .458 Lott and does it the same to a lesser degree. Took out Winchester M70's could NOT get them to bind up in same manner.

What is the design difference that causes the CZ's to bind up? Granted if you pull them straight back with no lateral pressure they work good but not near as smooth at the Winchesters.

Last thing I want is to be in a hairy situation and under stress bind up my bolt.

Anyone else notice this?

Thanks for any info

Not on mine, send it back.

Probably just a high spot or maching swarf. Just polish the ways with some 400 grit emery cloth. Brownells sells a tool for this. Should be done on all DGRs. Takes more time to talk about then to do.

Its been back twice.

quote:

Originally posted by chuck375:
Not on mine, send it back.

OK that sounds like a plan. What is the tool called?

quote:

Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
Probably just a high spot or maching swarf. Just polish the ways with some 400 grit emery cloth. Brownells sells a tool for this. Should be done on all DGRs. Takes more time to talk about then to do.

I don't have the Brownells catalog with me as I'm traveling.I think it's just called a way polishing tool. Nicely made and comes with instructions.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsm...olisher-prod395.aspx

Should be the one

quote:

Fast, Accurate Polishing To Smooth Bolt Travel

This heavy, “Big Bar” helps you polish the rails the bolt lugs ride on. Wrap abrasive paper around the end, tighten the set screw, then slide along the “ways” (rails). Gives great control and fast cutting.

OK great Thanks!

My CZ 550 .458 Win was real bad for binding up when new but after polishing and buffing using a felt wheel and autosol metal polish with a Dremel tool its all good.

Ok can you tell me exactly how you did it? Maybe I can skip the $50 tool

Thanks

Ordered the tool it was driving me crazy. You would think that from DZ custom shop they would do that already

I am no expert but I got a 416 Rigby CZ 550 mag & the action was quite rough. I had read about this issue and how it is easy to get it slick.


Check out my post on how I got it going. Hope it helps.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...101063581#2101063581

I would be very cautious with any Dremel tool etc. Talk to Wayne at AHR - he is a real great guy with heaps of experience - he works on these rifles for a living!

I also found this on Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QF_sUydMgUI

Yup that's the one! Once you have the tool you will become the Jedi knight of slick ways! Others will send you their guns for SLICKING! Never let a Dremel tool ever approach your gun without expert guidance.in the hands of an expert they are great in the hands of a noob it is a disaster.
To do a really competent job put some dye chem on the bolt and see where the rubbing is occurring. Polish that spot till you can't see the rub marks and the bolt travel is smooth. -Rob

I think I'll do a little more work on our CZ's.

I noticed that Michael458 B&M's were slick like glass. So are our Tikka's. So I know where to reach and what to aim for with the CZ's.

Good advice, thanks!I have 2 CZ's that are rough that should fix them. You would think that a few $3K up guns would have this done already.

quote:

Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
Yup that's the one! Once you have the tool you will become the Jedi knight of slick ways! Others will send you their guns for SLICKING! Never let a Dremel tool ever approach your gun without expert guidance.in the hands of an expert they are great in the hands of a noob it is a disaster.
To do a really competent job put some dye chem on the bolt and see where the rubbing is occurring. Polish that spot till you can't see the rub marks and the bolt travel is smooth. -Rob

When the Koucky brothers originally designed the ZKK they omitted a very important Mauser 98 feature and that was the anti binding rib on the top of the bolt that runs in a raceway under the crest of the rear bridge. One can only suspect it was for cost saving.

This "design fault" was repeated or continued by Strouhal and Pittner of CZ when they modified the ZKK to become the 550 action.

quote:

Originally posted by gunslinger55:
OK so I got my .505 back with the new sights. Big improvement. Was cycling the action and noticed some bolt bind. If you put any lateral pressure on the bolt when it is in open position it seemed to lock up. Not good in a DG rifle. I took out my CZ .458 Lott and does it the same to a lesser degree. Took out Winchester M70's could NOT get them to bind up in same manner.

What is the design difference that causes the CZ's to bind up? Granted if you pull them straight back with no lateral pressure they work good but not near as smooth at the Winchesters.

Last thing I want is to be in a hairy situation and under stress bind up my bolt.

Anyone else notice this?

Thanks for any info

Be careful with all the advice so far given. I don't think it will help one bit. The bolt is binding because there is too much play in it not because it is rough. This allows the bolt to hit the side rails at such an angle that you are in effect pushin/pulling the bolt into the side wall. Had this problem with a fuckedout Ruger 77MK2. Only 2 ways to properly fix it. Have a nylon sleeve/spacer made to go over the bolt where it goes through the rear of the action. This is to prevent sideways wobble/movement when you apply latteral pressure. Not an easy job with the claw extractor or do what I did piss it off. That is I scraped mine as I had tried all the other mods so importer would not take it back as faulty.

Very nice write up. Seems it can be more than just the rails

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
I am no expert but I got a 416 Rigby CZ 550 mag & the action was quite rough. I had read about this issue and how it is easy to get it slick.


Check out my post on how I got it going. Hope it helps.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...101063581#2101063581

I would be very cautious with any Dremel tool etc. Talk to Wayne at AHR - he is a real great guy with heaps of experience - he works on these rifles for a living!

I also found this on Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QF_sUydMgUI

Well that is not good news. Unfortunately scrapping this rifle would be a bad option. It does seem to have some excessive play and the binding is more mechanical than just rough raceways. I will look more into this, I have the raceway tool coming hope I didn't get it for nothing

quote:

Originally posted by Rule 303:

quote:

Originally posted by gunslinger55:
OK so I got my .505 back with the new sights. Big improvement. Was cycling the action and noticed some bolt bind. If you put any lateral pressure on the bolt when it is in open position it seemed to lock up. Not good in a DG rifle. I took out my CZ .458 Lott and does it the same to a lesser degree. Took out Winchester M70's could NOT get them to bind up in same manner.

What is the design difference that causes the CZ's to bind up? Granted if you pull them straight back with no lateral pressure they work good but not near as smooth at the Winchesters.

Last thing I want is to be in a hairy situation and under stress bind up my bolt.

Anyone else notice this?

Thanks for any info

Be careful with all the advice so far given. I don't think it will help one bit. The bolt is binding because there is too much play in it not because it is rough. This allows the bolt to hit the side rails at such an angle that you are in effect pushin/pulling the bolt into the side wall. Had this problem with a fuckedout Ruger 77MK2. Only 2 ways to properly fix it. Have a nylon sleeve/spacer made to go over the bolt where it goes through the rear of the action. This is to prevent sideways wobble/movement when you apply latteral pressure. Not an easy job with the claw extractor or do what I did piss it off. That is I scraped mine as I had tried all the other mods so importer would not take it back as faulty.

This could be a job for AHR! Dammit 2 times back to Triple river and this was not addressed

I suggest you call Ralf Martini and tell him that you would like your CZ to be as smooth as George Bazos' 458WM.I am clueless as to how he changed mine from the worst cycler to the the best cycler I own.I am sure he can guide you in the right direction.If I say it will be smooth it will be smooth.You might have to leave a message but be patient and he will get back to you.Tell him you are a member on AR.

Gunslinger, since you liked my post, I would draw you special attention to Wayne's comment about the ejector blade being the single biggest reason for bolt binding in the CZ. The blade is long & the spring is strong & this pushes the bolt up & causes the problem along with the rough rails, lugs & extractor.

I found that filing the ejector blade down and rounding off the edges made the biggest difference. The rails & lug polishing was just the icing....

Good luck.

Gunslinger55,I have cycled the bolts a couple of rifles one CZ 550 that was customized and a 12000 dollar custom safari bolt rifle.Both were rough and could be compared to something you buy out of the box from a factory.The owners of those rifles might believe that they were smooth cycling.I know that we like to save money and time and want to believe we can do the work ourselves but IMO chances are you it will not work or you will scrap your rifle.

I read Wayne's post on how to smooth out a CZ action and he is spot on. I did everything he said and it made a world of difference on my 416 Rigby. The man just plain knows his stuff.

I am wanting to change my caliber to 450 Rigby or 500 A-Square and I think he is the one I will trust to do it. Hard to not go with the guy with a proven track record.

Do you have a link to the post?

quote:

Originally posted by Sid-:
I read Wayne's post on how to smooth out a CZ action and he is spot on. I did everything he said and it made a world of difference on my 416 Rigby. The man just plain knows his stuff.

I am wanting to change my caliber to 450 Rigby or 500 A-Square and I think he is the one I will trust to do it. Hard to not go with the guy with a proven track record.

This is trivial stuff. With a fine cratex wheel on your Dremel tool polish every edge you can find except the extractor hook on the bolt, extractor and rear action bridge. Again use some dye Chen to see what exactly is binding and polish there. It doesn't take much.

Wayne posted on my above link. Here it is

----------------

posted 10 February 2013 06:09

Nakihunter,

I'll save you a phone call.

Aside from the obvious, there are a couple of things to look for that can cause the CZ to have a rougher than normal factory bolt throw. By obvious I mean stoning or sanding any rough machine marks that are visible. Don't use too aggressive a grit, 240 max to start. You don't want to remove more metal than needed. Pay attention to the top and bottom of the extractor and top and bottom of the bolt lugs. These always need work.

Wink was correct about the extractor collar needing attention. Some of the collars sit proud of the bolt and have a sharp edge to them. Remove the collar, hold it in a vise, and work it down with some fine paper backed with a file or something flat. Keep the flat surfaces flat and the round surfaces round.

Another thing to look for is how the bolt rides over the ejector. This one thing can make the biggest difference in how a bolt throw feels on the CZ. I've found quite a few ejectors that don't recess all the way and end up putting pressure on the bolt forcing it against the top of the raceway. Remove the ejector and take a little metal off the top of it where it contacts the bolt. Be sure to round and polish the sharp top/front corner as it will catch on the extractor collar if you don't.

I hope this helps,


Bitterroot
www.americanhuntingrifles.com

______________________________

quote:

Originally posted by gunslinger55:
Do you have a link to the post?

quote:

Originally posted by Sid-:
I read Wayne's post on how to smooth out a CZ action and he is spot on. I did everything he said and it made a world of difference on my 416 Rigby. The man just plain knows his stuff.

I am wanting to change my caliber to 450 Rigby or 500 A-Square and I think he is the one I will trust to do it. Hard to not go with the guy with a proven track record.

Rob, I am sure you are an experience gun builder and I do not intend to cause any offense.

I believe that a Dremel tool is to be used ONLY by an expert.

For us laymen who have limitations, I would never take a Dremel tool to a rifle action - even for polishing. I have seen the damage it can cause and how hard it is to control. I use it for stock work as I can easily fill the gaps with epoxy. But for metal, I prefer slower hand work!

quote:

Originally posted by Robgunbuilder:
This is trivial stuff. With a fine cratex wheel on your Dremel tool polish every edge you can find except the extractor hook on the bolt, extractor and rear action bridge. Again use some dye Chen to see what exactly is binding and polish there. It doesn't take much.

No offense taken but by using just a tad of common sense anyone can in fact use a Dremel tool with a cratex wheel on it. No different than light emery cloth. Really hard to screw up. I'm not taking about a aggressive stone wheel. Just Cratex, which is a rubber composite with a fine abrasive embedded in it. The one I use is about 1/4 inch diameter 1/2 inch long with a bullet shaped nose. Works like a charm and almost impossible to slip with. Just move to an edge and polish. Wayne makes a good point about polishing the extractor collar as I've seen that have sharp edges. Again cratex wheel fixes it quickly. If your not comfortable with this find someone who is. A CZ550 isn't Magic, I've done probably 50 of them this way. try it you'll like the results. Of course you can always pay some gunsmith to do the same thing, wait forever and pay a fortune for something you can do yourself.

On examination it seems the ejector is riding hard on the bolt. Also the heavy re-bluing of the action and bolt rails that needs to be worked in. Looking at lightly working the ejector and polishing rails.

Advice on working the ejector? Remove from action first I assume?

Dye Chem, then Polish, repeat until no rubbing. If the ejector is bent and rubbing you may have to bend it slightly in a vise. Be careful as you can break it. I'd try polishing first. Dye chemnis your friend.-Rob

Rob what part no. is the Dremel cratex wheel please?

If you don't feel up to polishing the collar, fit a Mauser one.

Cheers,

Chris

This talk of the ejector blade dragging got me looking at some of my non CZ CRF actions. So far I've polished the nose on 3 of them and its surprising how much different it has made. I should be done the rest in a week.

I don't have a part no. Try MSC or Google cratex polishing wheels. Got mine at the local hardware store. Yes polishing the extractor collar can make a big difference if that's where it's rubbing.

I was not confident about removing the ejector blade and reassembling it. So I just used the small files and got great results.

Just rounding off the edges made a big difference. Removing metal to reduce the height of the ejector blade would make it even better.

Picture worth a thousand words. Thanks!

Thanks Rob. Went over to the local chain hardware store and they had never heard of cratex. Doesn't surprise me!

Cheers,

Chris

OK got the bolt raceway polisher. beefy and nice. Looks like it will really do the job. My only question is it says to strip receiver down beforehand. Looks like bolt catch and ejector will be in way. any suggestions in doing it assembled? From both my CZ's looks like ejector is biggest culprit bit I want to polish it as well

Just give Wayne a call at AHR. He is a real nice guy & very helpful. He will guide you step by step I am sure.

I am in NZ & so I did not want to risk disassembling the trigger, ejector etc.

On the other hand, you can just use the raceway polishing tool & the ejector should act like a bolt stop. Then you can use the small files like I did.

Good luck.

Any advice on pulling the striking assembly from the bolt of the CZ 550 without access to a bench or vise?
Is it easy to disassemble by hand and reassemble, or will I need to put the bolt of sriker spring assembly in a vise to pop a piece back in place?
I'm currently in a place with no immediate backup and would like to clean and oil.