So I finally had the opportunity to fire my cz 550 .505 gibbs and the recoil is certainly stout to say the least. Standing was not to bad but a seated position was a bit more painful. I was thinking of adding a muzzle break to control recoil a bit. I know big bore guys think this is a silly idea but I would rather fire more round at the range and spare my should a bit. What muzzle breaks would work and how extensive of a job is this forna gun smith? Are there ones you can screw on and off? And how much will this tame the rifle?

A muzzle brake that screws on and off is what you want. One reason alone is if you work up reduced loads whereby you don't need the brake the muzzle blast is still bad and you need ear muffs.

You don't give your location but I will assume you live in America. American Hunting Rifles, who post on AR and who have a 100% top reputation would be the perfect place as they do lots of works with the CZ and lots of them are big bore big kickers.

Most gunsmiths will be aware that the threading of the barrel must be based on the centre of the bore. The reason is that the hole in the end of a barrel is not usually the centre of the barrel and a muzzle brake is only about 20 thou over bullet diameter. Lots of the CZs AHR do a big bores so will also supply muzzle brake.

When the brake is taken off a threaded cap is screwed on.

AHR would also be good because of the front sight on your CZ 505 as that will be a consideration when threading the barrel.

Muzzle brakes work very well and apart from reducing the recoil make the rifle far more controllable. For some reason, they seem for the first couple of shots to reduce recoil more than they actually do. I don't know the reason, maybe some mental thing but that has been my experience. In other words after a few shots you say to yourself "this kicks more than I first thought"

The brake is probably at its best on calibres like the 338/378 and 378 Wby. The reason is the rifle does not jump all over the place when shot from an improvised rest and these calibres are about long range shooting. With a brake calibres like the 338/378 and 378 (also so 338 RUM and 338 Lapua) can be shot from a rest much the same way as you would a 30/06.

If you only want to reduce recoil for use on a bench rest there are other ways such as using a bag of lead shot. There are different ways to go about doing this.

Yes I live in Florida. The round I fired was a 600 grain solid at 2200 fps. What's is the lead shot method to reduce recoil? What Is the turnaround time on a job like this. Thanks for the good info

I have no idea of turn around time, you need to check with who does the job. However, it is not what you would call a big job but for some the front sight might be a pain and that is why I mentioned American Hunting Rifles.

With a bag of l3ad shot there are different ways of doing it. I had a leather bag made which from memory was about 5" or so wide and 9" or 110" high. The bag had 14 pounds of lead shot. The bag stretches quite quickly. I has the bad set up bout the bottom half was full of lead, actually a bit more than half but the bulk of the shit was in the bottom half. When shooting the butt of the rifle was mostly against the upper part of the bag where there was not much shot and so it was not very thick.

It takes a bit if practice but I was able to get full accuracy and the same point of impact with a 460 Wby with and without the bag. I was also able to use it in the field on the bonnet of a Toyota Landcruiser.

I also had a second leather bag made that was much bigger. Basically the butt of the gun would go into the middle of the bag any arm/shoulder sort of go over the top of the bag. However, I never used it much as the smaller bag I first mentioned was just that much more convenient.

There was an American who use to post a lot on AR called JohnS and I think he had what was the best for bench rest use only. I wish I still had pictures of it but in the absence of pictures I will try and describe what he had. He had two separate bags of lead shot and either side of the rifle and from memory would have been either side of about the end of the forend of the stock. Both bags were joined by a leather strap that went around the butt of the rifle. In the middle of the strap there was what might be called a hood or shoe and it went over the top of the butt for small distance and thus stopped the strap falling down from the butt.

What John had was easier to use than what I had but I stuck with the single bag as with practice you get used to it and as I said I could use it in the field. In Australia the volume of shooting is far higher than America and thus it was good in the field.

There is also a thing called the Lead Sled. If you search on Google there will be heaps of stuff. It is sort of a cradle for the rifle and you add weight to it. Personally I would not use one and plenty of people would agree with but there are plenty of people who do use them.

So take your pick

Forgot add. I also had a couple of thin sand bags about and 1" thick at the most and I could sit the bag of lead shot on them to adjust height. Also, the bag of lead shot should not be packed tight, just the opposite.

a good brake will have 6 ports, 3 on each side and no holes top or bottom,make sure you get a thread protector with the brake usually about 20-25 dollars for when you remove the brake.I know on small calibers POI will change with the brake on you gun I do not know.it will normally take a smith about a 2 week average to do a brake, good luck

quote:

Originally posted by hydehunter:
a good brake will have 6 ports, 3 on each side and no holes top or bottom,make sure you get a thread protector with the brake usually about 20-25 dollars for when you remove the brake.I know on small calibers POI will change with the brake on you gun I do not know.it will normally take a smith about a 2 week average to do a brake, good luck

I think that is true of doing prone shooting but personally I prefer the KDF style as used by Weatherby on all the 378 based Wby calibres.

If one must, the vais style is effective. I am not a fan of tank style brakes, in specific, and not a fan of them on hunting rifles, in general, but at the range, with proper ear (plugs and muffs) and eye protection they have their place in training.

I can't stand them on AR /223 platform. Especially at the range, sigh.. no rant on Sunday morning Jeff

quote:

Originally posted by ALF:

Something that was brought up is the use of muffs and ear plugs when using brakes ? Does this infer they are not necessary when using a unbraked firearm ?

I guess the difference is with a brake and especially stuff like a 30/378 is the sheer pain of no muffs or/and plugs.

I'm a fan (and I know a lot of people are not) of using a lead sled when doing anything but checking zero off of the bench with my 500 Jeffery. If I'm doing load development or shooting more than two or three rounds from the bench I use the sled. Offhand the 500 Jeffery is lovely (kicks about the same as your 505 Gibbs).

I think I may send the rifle to ahr to install a muzzle break. Do you think upgrading the pad on the butt of the rifle is worth doing?

Just question here:

How much muzzle brake changes the point of impact? If removed/installed, is it significant for "505 Gibbs hunting ranges"?


Question #2: What is the weight of the rifle? How it is balanced? What about some mercury recoil reducers in stock instead of muzzle break?

Jiri

PS: I will shoot reduced loads for "basic" sighting in in sitting position and tune it for full loads standing, giving a f@%k to any muzzle brake. Maybe that reduced load will be fine for all NA hunting too (400 grain instead of 600 grain bullet at the same velocity - pretty close point of impact I believe).

The rifle weighs 12.6 pounds with scope and sling. I fired without the scope to start so I'm guessing it weighs around 11ish without. The gun already has a mercury rod in it. Round was 600 grain solid at over 2200 fps

Well STEEL, welcome to the .500”+ club.

You may already be aware if this, but in addition to the points above for managing recoil, you can go with the original 525 grain bullet and use a powder like Reloader 15. There will be a small, but noticeable lessening of the recoil.

I would not shoot my .500 AHR off a standard sitting bench without a lead sled and 25lb bag of shot.
Standing rest is do-able.....

I personally do not feel the need for a muzzle brake ....and they are ugly

quote:

Originally posted by Redstone:

I personally do not feel the need for a muzzle brake

I am a bit the same for lower velocity calibres as compared to the long range stuff like 30/378, 338/378 and the 378 and also 300 and 338 RUM. With those calibres and especially from an improvised rest, even if you had anaesthetic without a brake you simply can't hold them the way you do a 270 etc. because of rifle movement without a brake. If you have to hold a rifle to make allowance for recoil then accuracy/long range is not so good.

Although stuff like the 600 OK or a 505 Gibbs loaded to full pressure loads might be different.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike McGuire:
.......Although stuff like the 600 OK or a 505 Gibbs loaded to full pressure loads might be different.

Ah.....as they say:”ultra bore rifles: “it’s more of a push than a punch”.....yea, right
Still, a muzzle brake....hell boy, this isn’t a tank firing exercise!

ADDED: .505 Gibbs recoil
I just ran the numbers thru a calc, close enough no doubt...
Assumed - 11.3 lb rifle, 135 grains powder, 600 grain bullet @ 2200’/sec = 111.7 foot pounds recoil
Assumed - 11.3 lb rifle, 105 grains (RL15) powder, 525 grain bullet @ 2300’/sec = 84.2 foot pounds recoil

“...your mileage may vary....”

"KDF" slimline...… Tip Burns installed it for me on mine....

Have you considered a mercury break? I know those will work.

quote:

Originally posted by jimatcat:
"KDF" slimline...… Tip Burns installed it for me on mine....

Do those thread on and come with a thread protector. They look good.

So I picked up a past shoulder pad, the 1 inch magnum one and it certainly does help with the recoil. I was able to shoot 12 full house loads without much discomfort. I think with the pad u may not need a break but we shall see. I will play with it a bit more.

I paid the piper on shooting in a time when nobody used ear protection or even considered it, Today I'm all but deaf and I now wear two hearing aids and at times still have hearing problems..

Adding lead shot to a good rifle is the best way I know to ruin the balance of any rifle,and a good way to split a stock out, Some add shot to the butt AND forend and that is a better solution for balance I suppose, but all your doing is making the gun a bitch to pack around all day in Africas extreme heat and even more likely to split out..

I have no problem with Muzzle brakes If you use hearing protection, it can save your hearing and help your shooting..I wish today I'd have taken that advise some many years ago..When I hunt today I wear foam plugs on a string around my neck and use them religiously , my hearging aids I carry in my pocket for time spent in camp and around friends.

A shoulder pad adds length to the stock and also effects the balance and quick use of the rifle to one degree or the other..Im not comfortable with them..

My recommendation to those overought with Testosterone is use ear plugs when hunting and ear plugs and head set at the bench, don't use a lead sled, it splits wood, or leave off the weights on the sled...Use a detachable brake with a thread protector, and save your future with no bursitis or swollen joints...Take care of the body and keep the testosterone for a gunfight..

Go with the vias break. I have one on a cz 550 in .505 Gibbs. It really takes the edge off.

Unfortunatly the larger a modern brake is the more recoil it absorbs, Hunting in the bush is not a beauty contest..use what works and take it off in public if your so appalled..I only started using brakes a few years ago and all the damage was already done but I still use them today and wouldn't be without them..The guide or Ph can accept the plugs I offer him or stick his fingers in his ears..

The guide or Ph that states he won't book you with a muzzle brake is one got way too many clients on line, or is getting ready to go broke, or in truth is just full of bull hocky spewing town talk and will take your money in a heart beat..He is mostly a fictional and contrived individual, as most guides will go to great lengths to help you shoot well, noise is better than a buff or elephant doing the Texas two step on your head.

No brake on mine. Or any of my big bores. Takes all the “fun” out of it Can’t imagine how loud it would be?

Gunslinger,
That was my approach back in the day, You will pay the piper I assure you..If I had it to do over Id stick with a 7x57 and hope I didn't get stomped..