Yep - a drop tube makes a big difference when using stick powder.

You can also put 3/4 of the charge in the case, touch the base of the case to a vibratory cleaner (or the washing machine when on spin with 4,000 towels in it - like in my house after the girls shower ) which will settle the powder and make room for the rest.

In the DR forum one of the guys was having similar trouble fitting the charge in the case of his 375 Flanged. I prefer this to using a smaller doese of faster powder and some sort of filler.

Congratulations on a great rifle in a truly fantastic caliber.

Guys- I like the Washing machine on "spin" approach!!!!
I just wanted to add that in the .600OK, its easy to get 2400fps with a 26 inch barrel and a brass Bore Rider solid. Bore Riders will usually give you an easy 100fps or more for the same pressure. Moly coat em too.
These big bores really require the long barrel for a full charge powder burn. If you have a 22 inch barrel you will top out at 2300 fps, no matter what you do. Thats still a "STOUT" load. -Rob

I had a chance to find my max load today. 4350 @162 grains. The electric toothbrush and drop tube made it possible without having to crush too much powder.
Next I will be trying the brake to see how I am able to handle it with the max load.
Frank

Hey Frank,

My frikkin' arm is killing me. But it sure was fun! And, pictures of the rifle don't really do it justice. It is indeed a very beautiful rifle.

I had a chance to take the rifle out again today. I was warming up with some lighter loads of 150gr. of 4350 and the 750 grain loads. I was hitting about 3 inches high at the 50 yard mark when I had a young guy "volunteer?". He did very well and was able to hold the rifle as if it were just another rifle. I had just put the Brake on it to test a couple of max loads so he was pleased to be able to hang on and enjoy.
With the brake on I was shooting a more serious load and although it did indeed significantly tame the recoil I was surprised to find the loads were striking around 4 inches below my point of aim. Very unscientific I know becuse Although I was seated the rifle was in hand.
I love the fact that this brake did not hit me in the face with the concussion I have felt in other rifles. A great design.
I am waiting on a couple of boxes of Woody and a hundred or so lead swagged at .622 to see how they go and then I will go back to the 900 grain loads and work up a 2200 fps load using my chrony.
I have to say this is a very enjoyable rifle and the weight and balance of it are very instrumental ain making it easy to shoot.

I did have one of the pieces of brass show a small chip on the end of the brass and now I am thinking I had better figure out how to trim the brass. Any suggestions. I am using a Pro-trim and also have a Lyman with universal chuck which may or may not accept the brass. I know I can do it with a flat file but would prefer something more precise.
Frank

I use the Forster trimmer, I think I bought the Classic:

http://www.midwayusa.com/produ...sic-case-trimmer-kit

It has worked well. The OK and the Gibbs both have a .640" rims so it should work. Many mfgs are also makeing .50BMG trimmers which you could order with a different chuck for the smaller OK rim.

Years ago I made a hardened Trim case die and just file it flat. Those straight cases usually don't grow much anyway. Some of my brass has had 20 reloads. If that muzzel brake is my old design, its good for 40% recoil reduction. The gun is fun with the brake in place and NO fun without it. Honestly, I NEVER take mine off. I like power and velocity, not pain. You'll also notice that brake doesn't make the gun louder than without it. The Big Holes in the brake are the clue. You can also load those 750's and even 900's ( may need a canelure tool though) out further depending on your mag dimensions for more case capacity. I've gotten 168 grs of 4350 into once fired brass. I've gotten "smokin" velocities out of them. When the gun starts to torque iutself out of your hands its time to stop. You shoot any gallon water bottles yet to get an idea of its impact capabilities ? Word of caution, don't sit them on top of anything you care about, EVER! -Rob

Thanks for the tip Rob. I did not notice the brass growing so much as I got a few pieces which were not straight to begin with.
I am shooting the rifle with 162 grains and the brake. I didn't pay attention to the "loudness" factor as I was more concerned to hold on and aim straight.
I did notice the poi was a few inches lower than without the brake. Is this due to a loss of velocity? or some other factor.
Frank

Barrel harmonics change drastically when brakes are added or removed. This is a common result.

Blake

It is common thing with big bore rifles or handguns
that have muzzle rise in recoil:
A faster load with same bullet weight will shoot lower
because it exits the barrel sooner.
Also, if the muzzle brake decreases recoil and muzzle rise,
a faster and more powerful load will shoot lower.

In regulating a double rifle, the slower initial loads shoot high and diverged.
As the velocity is increased, the loads converge and POI is lower.

No much to add on POI effects other than agreement that faster loads shoot lower and slower loads shoot higher. Thats always been my experience. Frankly I don't care as long as they are accurate. Thats what sights are for-Rob

And Rob's advice on torque-control being the limiting factor for load development: Agree.

A muzzle brake won't help with torque.
That is a result of all that bullet mass hitting the lands of the rifling,
the rifle will twist in the same direction as the rifling twist.
Right-hand twist rifling (looking down the barrel from breech to muzzle)
will cause the rifle to torque to the right of the bore axis.
When you cannot hold onto the rifle any longer,
stop adding powder.
If you are benchresting for accuracy, lay out a mattress to the right of the rifle, in case it ever gets out of grip and flies/flops over onto its side.

The 250 or 300 should help hold on to it as it twists

http://www.heavygrips.com/

quote:

Originally posted by RNS:
The 250 or 300 should help hold on to it as it twists

http://www.heavygrips.com/

Build up your grip strength, get rid of that muzzle brake, add more powder, and you too can detach a retina and fracture a clavicle.

Frank, while most brakes may not impact POI much, consider that the X-Brake probably weighs a pound!

quote:

Originally posted by Biebs:
Frank, while most brakes may not impact POI much, consider that the X-Brake probably weighs a pound!

Just having that much weight on the muzzle will decrease muzzle rise,
and the faster load will exit the muzzle sooner too.
That is a double effect on lowering POI.
And who knows what "harmonic" is going on to also affect POI ...

I've never seen a faster load shooting lower POI, but I ve seen many times a recoil anticipation.

An "Involuntary flinch" anticipating the recoil associated with the faster more powerful load.

A good friend of mine a top level Olympic class shooter shot my Chrono, after I foolishly let him to shoot through a chronno as a first shot from .460Wea.

He managed an 8" flinch "downwards" at 30 yards.

Pyzda