quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
I would try to make do with the iron sights but if you really must have a scope, yes, a low fixed power should be the most reliable.

Why? because virtually all modern hunting scopes have a 'constantly centred reticle', which is achieved by articulating the entire erector set and, in variables, the power scroll mechanism. This works well enough in low-recoil rifles but when there is a big kick the front end of the erector tube leaves its engagement with the turret screws as the rifle rises, compressing further the erector spring(s) and then slams back against the screws. The violence of this action is increased by any additional weight in the system, such as the brass construction preferred in order to prevent galling of the mechanism, particularly in variables. The erector spring is often the casualty, particularly when twisted laterally because the user did not mount the scope correctly.

This system has been around for about 60 years but the best scope makers resisted going over to constantly centred reticles until the late 1970s, at which point they abandoned principle in favor of populist BS (cf modern politics). Before that scopes had either no internal adjustments or moved nothing but a small reticle ring, while the erector set was fixed solidly in the outer tube. You can still find good examples of those old scopes on the Internet. The strongest German scopes only have elevation adjustments but they require windage mounts, not easy to find, esp. if the scope has a rail underneath.

After interrogating the seller about condition, you might still find a good, low-power reticle-movement scope with double adjustments and no rail - but the cognoscenti know their value and the prices are going up. Scopes with German #1 reticles from Zeiss/Hensoldt, Nickel Supra, Kahles, Pecar or Swarovski would be my first choice but a Unertl or pre-'64 Leupold with a flat-topped post might also be worth considering. Variables in that type of scope (where the reticle can move noticeably out of centre if wound far enough) are also fine because the power scroll is set firmly in the erector set, not flapping around as in new models.

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
if you are ordering the NECG ruger rear sight, you CANNOT just remove the peep and use it as a ghost ring -- the insert is part of the sticktion grip to hold elevation.

but you can drill it out a bit.

they come off/on easy enough, and hold zero .. and yes, you can put it in your pocket and put on a scope ..

low power or not, eye relief is critical, as #1 have not only normal recoil, but they rotate A LOTT (see what I did there?) and getting clipped by the scope is both common and a great flinch inducement.

Nikon African is your friend, or muzzle loader / shotgun scope

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Personally I would not consider a scope on a 500 of any kind..To start with I can shoot as good as the caliber itself, it being a 100 yard gun at best IMO, plus Im anti scope on double rifles and against shooting buffalo and DG at ranges over 100 yards and prefer 50 as a better max under all but a few circumstances..Sooner or later that scope and your eye will be introduced to each other and that will ruin your day I assure you. I limit scope use to the 375 H&H and the 416 Rem bolt acion category and only then with QD rings..