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Steel shot for ducks
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Picture of Rub Line
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I have always been a rifleman, and big game kind of guy but I've also enjoyed upland game hunting. So I was very surprised when my 11 year old son started begging me to go duck hunting! I almost feel like I've lost him to the dark side.

Anyway, I am taking him out this weekend for the first time and have just about everyting put together for a weekend in the marsh. (mississippi river) I have done very little duck hunting in my life, so my knowledge is limeted on much of this.

I purchased him a very nice older 1100 remington, modified cylinder, 2 3/4" only. I went to get shotshells but was confused on which to buy. I was looking at the winchester 1500 fps stuff. What weight (oz.) and shot size do I need?

So far, I've just about spent all of my hard earned cash on decoys, robo ducks, calls, waders, boat accessories, and misc. equipment. So, please, nobody tell me to buy another shotgun. diggin


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Do not answer a fool according to his folly, or you yourself will be just like him. Proverbs 26-4


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Posts: 1992 | Location: WI | Registered: 28 September 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of Michael Robinson
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Assuming that it's a 12 gauge, you should try the 2-3/4" Hevi-Shot waterfowl loads, 1 1/4 oz. of No. 2 or No. 4 shot at 1,300 fps.


Mike

Wilderness is my cathedral, and hunting is my prayer.
 
Posts: 13654 | Location: New England | Registered: 06 June 2003Reply With Quote
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I wish I had a good place to duck hunt, I, and the wife, really like to eat them.

I have done some duck hunting. I learned early on it is a LOT of work.
If you are lake or big river hunting...

You have to take everything you take when you go fishing...

Everything you take when you go hunting...

PLUS all the stuff you need "just" for the ducks. shocker

In recent years most of my duck hunting has been on my deer lease, either on the river, or at one largish stock pond [no boat], and has also involved some type of Drilling, so I have always used Bismuth shot, as it is safe in non steel rated guns. I have found it to be pretty effective.

I like No 5 or No4 best.

Mikes Hevi-Shot recomenditions are good ones.

Hunting ducks is like going on a Premium Big game hunt.

You put so much work, and now days money, into the hunt, do not skimp on your shells.

PS fried duck breasts, thighs/legs, hearts, livers and gizzards, floured in olive oil are great.

Just do not cook the duck until it is like boot leather.


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Posts: 16134 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 April 2002Reply With Quote
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You can kill ducks with 2 3/4" shells and steel shot......a good all-around load is #2(I usually buy a case each per year of 3" #4 for early season teal, woodies and mallards, 3.5" #2 for late season puddlers and diver/sea ducks, and 3.5" BB for geese......all steel). As I said, if all of your shots are in tight you'll do fine with #3 or #4.

Choke-wise: improved cylinder if your shots are in close, modified if a bit further.......hopefully over decoys either way.

As far as brand you'll get 10 different opinions: if money is no object get Hevi-Shot......but I wouldn't until you and your son are tuned in, that way it's not costing you $2.50 per missed shot. I like Kent Fasteel but I buy Fiocchi or Federal at times, even tried Hevi-Metal but wasn't impressed.

Rogerssportinggoods.com has the BEST deals on ammo bar none. Usually free shipping.....you'll pay $40 more per case elsewhere.

Hope that helps......enjoy the addiction with your son!!!!
 
Posts: 2717 | Location: NH | Registered: 03 February 2009Reply With Quote
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Any shell in a number 2 should be fine..... just buy the cheapest stuff and wait untill they get in range......
 
Posts: 589 | Location: Austin TX, Mexico City | Registered: 17 August 2005Reply With Quote
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In my opinion, with steel shot, worry about velocity.

I would get anything with 7/8 oz or more of steel 2 or 3 at the highest velocity you can find.

A 7/8 oz steel load is like a 1 1/8 oz lead load in pellet count (roughly)

If the gun is an older one, (with fixed choke, it likely is...) you may see some scratching of the bore with the shells.

If you are a good wingshot, then the bismuth and the various tungsten shells start to make sense, as you can stretch the range a bit. Just limit yourself to 40 yards or so (it helps to put a distinctive decoy at that distance so you have a reference point) and wait for them to get in range.
 
Posts: 11025 | Location: Minnesota USA | Registered: 15 June 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of L. David Keith
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Rub Line, everyone that hunts ducks has their own view and opinion of what works best, we all are like that in life. IMHO I would go with steel but not the cheapest I could find. Much of that low end stuff is cheap for a reason. An experienced duck hunter who is a good shot, can make up poor quality, but it's hard on a beginner to get much out of cheap shotshells on average. Poor shot patterning is an example. On the other hand, you don't need expensive, over priced non toxic loads either, especially paying $2.50 - $3.00 per shell. Winchester makes a very good quality steel shotshell (not their cheapest load, it is fair) but again, IMHO Kent Faststeel is a good shell for the money. You might pay $2-$3 more for a box of 25 Winchester's, but Kent has served me well and I've been shooting waterfowl since I was 15. With a modified choke (I use an IC over decoys) he can use #4s on small ducks; #3s on medium and #2s on Mallards/Blacks. You are better off sticking with one size to fit all, so #3s would be my choice for your son. However, if you have mostly big birds, Mallards, Black Ducks, Canvasbacks/Redheads, probably #2s would be better. If you have geese in the mix, I'd use #1s. They are very good on tall ducks and geese over the decoys, but at 11 years, your son should learn patience and let the birds get within 40 yards. I like them 20-25 yards with my IC choke but that's asking a lot with a youngster, and with steel shot from a modified choke, your looking at a tighter/smaller pattern over the decoys making his shots tougher. There's a lot to learn about fooling waterfowl, but hopefully you have an area that is teaming with birds and they like your spread. If your not proficient with a call, let the decoys do the work. They will work into a silent spread. Movement of the decoys (jerk string, mallard machine, etc) is more important on still days. With a slight breeze or stiff wind, you may be able to sit back and let them work into the spread without a sound. If you can learn to do nothing but a soft quack, I can promise you that will bring in more ducks than blowing loud blasts of noise. Hope it works well for both of you. Nothing like sharing a duck blind with a son. Good hunting, David



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Posts: 6822 | Location: Tennessee | Registered: 18 December 2006Reply With Quote
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Picture of Rub Line
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Thanks, everyone, for all of the good information. Very helpful. tu2 I'll get some shells today, probly 100 rounds.

This weekend's hunt is the 2-day Youth Waterfowl Hunt in WI, so just kids can shoot, (statewide). We're camping on an island and hunting out of the boat, he's more excited for this than the opener of deer season. killpc should be a blast!


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Do not answer a fool according to his folly, or you yourself will be just like him. Proverbs 26-4


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Posts: 1992 | Location: WI | Registered: 28 September 2007Reply With Quote
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i gotta agree with L david - the hiv velocity kent has really worked well for us #2's do it all. the plus with the kent is that they are about the cleanest burning shotshells i've ever had
 
Posts: 13461 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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