Hey fellas,

I shoot bolt action, but I have a white model 97 whitetail hunter (.504 caliber) that belonged to my father. He was a former member on here (Doubless). I lost him a few years ago due to colon cancer. I was thinking about getting into muzzleloader hunting in order to buy me some extra time in January.

Long story short, I don't know the proper powder charges. Moreover, how to even properly load the darned thing. I can't find any info online ( a manual even)regarding this stuff. Any suggestions and/or help would be appreciated.

I recently pulled my ML out of the safe and learned (starting!) to load it. T/C had a good 'booklet" on line to get me started. I also took a state ML on line course that had a lot of general information; had to complete the class in person to do a shooting test.

A copy of the owners manual for your (?) rifle is available on line.

I know this does not apply to long guns but just for anyones info here's what I did for a quick powder measure charge in my cap + ball revolvers. I built my powder horn from an old curled goat horn, whittled a piece of wood to fit the opening then threaded the center of the wood to accept a brass 90 deg. valve fitting. that was coupled to a length of copper tubing that was equal to the correct amount of grains. You put the copper tube in the chamber, give the valve a half turn then off + you have just filled a chamber with the correct load. Kinda along with the same idea of the rotors on the RCBS 'Little Dandy'. It's real quick when you get used to it.

this won't answer your question, directly -

#1 safety item you need is a CO2 Load Discharger

you do NOT need to patch conicals or sabots


Here's the manf's website on your ML
http://whitemuzzleloading.com/model-97/

It calls for pyrodex or triple 7 (777)

quote:

Tolerated up to 150 grains equivalent of Pyrodex (P is preferred) or 150 grains of Triple 777, or other reproduction powder, or three 50 grain pellets when shooting sabots.

i, personally, handsdown, prefer 777 -- low fouling, EASY to clean, and for a new-to-it, will make your life WAY easier - and it delivers faster MV

most muzzleloaders are loaded by volume, not by weight

fg, ffg, fffg, are ratings of increasing fineness - use the the manf' suggestions -- the 150 gr charge is STIFF, i'd start at about 110 and work up



This will tell you an overview, quickly
https://www.muzzle-loaders.com...ding-a-muzzleloader/

These are as handy as top pockets
https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...002212778?pid=119308

be certain that these can hold your desired charge level some topout at 100-120

here's some BP accessories
https://www.midwayusa.com/blac...erSelectedSort=False


I persoanlly have had good luck with these
https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...002234681?pid=539362

some folks love conicals, some sabots (SAY-BOW, not SABB-BUTT), but we all agree that round balls aren't for big bore RIFLED hunting .. they helix

hi ramrod,
I got into muzzleloading for the same reason you did, to give me more time to hunt. I kept it simple, 2 50 grain pellets, 209 primer and the weight of powerbelt that shot the best. went out and killed things.

A forum decated to muzzle loader shooters.
https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com

Many a white rifle fan there also.
https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com

All my 50 cal rifles shoot fine with 80gr volume of Triple 7.


Buck horn 209 has a lot of fans but is a really pricy sub to use and won't work in some rifles at all.


Al