Does a cape shrink after it is Tanned? Assume the cape was not salted, and was frozen after removed from the animal. (not sure if this makes a difference)

A Taxidermist told me that after a cape is taken out of the pickle, it is measured to determine the form size it will be mounted in. I was also told that it is common to order a slightly smaller form that the cape measures because the cape will shrink during the drying process.

A different taxidermist told me that they also measure the cape after the pickle, but will first stretch it, obviously making the finished deer look larger in the neck once mounted.

What is the general practice in top quality taxidermy?
What is the general practice in budget quality taxidermy?

I have been disappointed in the past when I picked up a finished mount and found the neck looked very small. In one case, I showed the guy the photos of the harvested deer and he acknowledged the massive size but then said “I measured the cape and ordered the correct size form for the deer.” Typically deer are harvested in full rut and the necks are swollen. Is that difficult to match on a finished mount? What can I do as a hunter to help the Taxidermist duplicate what I shot?

In the case of deer that come in with the head unskinned, I measure the neck both before and after the cape is taken off. I order the form based on the skinned size and use the "over the hair" measurement to show customers that I have mounted the buck to the original size. If I don't have a carcass to go by, I take the hide after it is completely tanned (and rehydrated if dry tanned) and stretch its girth. I know some folks that use all kinds of contraptions to stretch the thing bigger than it should be, but I do it by hand and then measure. I usually get the neck size pretty close with this method. A competitor of mine (who does some very high quality work) stretches the crap out of his capes. He routinely put 17 and 18" neck capes on 20" forms. I have tried it, but IMO, it causes all kinds of problems to over stretch one. The "arm pits" are usually off, it is difficult to taxi the skin into proper alignment, the stitches want to rip, the cape wants to drum in depression areas(pull away from the form), etc.

As a side note, some forms make the neck look smaller than it actually is. There is a certain company whose wall pedestal deer always look small to me, but when measured, they are correct.

First off ONLY measure the actual neck ,that’s with the skin of and tape tight.
Everyone I mean everyone measures differently.
so that's not any help.


I have had guys and gals tell me there deer measured 28 inches around the neck and the deer is laying right in front of me and I measure 18.
Then they say OH,,, I measured it right in front of the legs....

Next FORGET THE PICTURES
Most are the Chuck Adams type, so NO SCALE is possible to use ,you know where you stand 5 feet behind the dead animal or hold it arm stretched in front of you so it looks like Godzilla.
Also pictures of dead deer will have the hair lifted and standing more on end than your mount will be when finished so again here the pictures will decieve.
So pictures are no help.

Pictures of deer let's say, are of the dead animal NO MUSCLES are correct and the neck looks bigger because it's DEAD and limp and the neck muscles are all pushing down on each other from the weight and position of the dead weighted head, we live on a planet with GRAVITY, the muscles look bigger on a dead animal in a picture, hang the deer by it's horns and then take another BIG DIFFERENCE


Tanning can make a BIG difference.
Some tans do shrink skins, some others have the ability to open fibers more for better shaving and thus produce a skin that can be stretched more than needed to reproduce the actual size.

The biggest thing hunters complain about other taxidermy, not us, is they shrunk the hide.

I SAY WHY??
What benefit would it do for us to do that???
Monetary? NO, a smaller form may cost 15 to 25 Cents less.
Is any taxidermist going to risk his reputaion for 15 to 25 cents????


It's plain fact it's EXPERIENCE you seek. These days with snap together taxidermy everyone thinks they can do this. By that I mean everyone thinks they can be a taxidermist. Because they can buy supplies, forms, jaw sets, fleming mouth cups, brush on home tans, and a DVD and they are instant taxidermists.

People spend thousands and tens of thousands of dollars hunting and then take there work to one of these Instant Taxidermists and they do not know what is really going on. The State License's these taxidermists and the public feels good about that.
So Buyer beware, The general Public is Unaware that ANY PERSON with a 50 or 100 bill can get a license in one day without any requirements AT ALL.
No experience needed.
NONE.

Search out an experienced taxidermist that produces work that YOU LIKE and that you feel confident in.

It's the Experience of the taxidermists that will get you the results you are looking for.





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Hey Dennis, Check your PM