I currently live in Korea, but will eventually move back to the USA. If I have my trophies prepared as European Mounts and the cape tanned, can they later be turned into shoulder mounts? I ask because I don't know how many more mounts my father is willing to store for me and the European and tanned Cape solution wouldn't take up too much space. A tanned hide is more resistant to deterioration than a salted hide, correct?

Colin

quote:

If I have my trophies prepared as European Mounts and the cape tanned, can they later be turned into shoulder mounts?

Yes. Have the cape wet tanned and keep it in the freezer. Mount it within a couple of years to be on the safe side.

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Originally posted by Grafton:

quote:

If I have my trophies prepared as European Mounts and the cape tanned, can they later be turned into shoulder mounts?

Yes. Have the cape wet tanned and keep it in the freezer. Mount it within a couple of years to be on the safe side.

I see people recommending that the tanned hide be frozen while waiting to do a shoulder mount. Why?

You can have your capes wet tanned or dry tanned. If they are dry tanned, they do not have to go into the freezer. However, they must be rehydrated before mounting. Also I believe a wet tanned cape stored in the freezer will last longer than a dry tanned cape. Wet tanning is more suitable for taxidermy puposes. In my experience dry tanned capes tend to break down over time, become more difficult to work with and it can be difficult to get a good stretch out of them. Also a wet tanned cape in the freezer is protected from insects, rodents, pets etc.. They do not take up that much room. You would be surprised to see how many tanned capes you can fit into a freezer! A dry salted (untanned) skin will last a long time too if it is stored properly.

My preference, and my recommendation to you is to have your skins wet tanned by a good tannery in the US, then seal them tightly in bags, label, and freeze. Mounting them within two years is best, to help avoid freezer burned ears, feet etc..

You could also pay a deposit/storage fee to a taxidermist and have them stored there.

Good luck.

Excellent post. Very informative. I have always wondered if this was possible as i've thought about doing it many times. So, wet tanning sounds like a must then.

Yes, you can tan the capes now and mount later.

As Grafton has posted tan then freeze However, it will not matter if it is a dry or wet tan. The difference is a dry tan will not soak up well one or two years down the road so, it still needs to be soaked up and frozen for mounting later.

Not sure how a tanned cape will freezer burn.?

I have had capes in the freezer for 5+ years with no problems. (some customers take forever to have things finished.)

Freezer burn may not be the correct term. They certainly can be frozen for a long time and still be mounted. I just have noticed that tanned skins that have been in a freezer a long time are often more difficult to work with. certain areas have to be soaked again because the freezer has sucked all the moisture out of them. Almost like a mild freeze dried effect. The cartilage in the ears is harder to remove. The skins seem to dry out faster. Thin areas on the skins seem more prone to tear when stitching and I can not get them to stretch out as well.

Tanneries often recommend that the skins they tan be mounted within one year.

Another reason not to dry tan is that there are steps involved such as excessive tumbling, that are not needed for skins to be mounted. I see this as more of a chance for damaged ears, lost whiskers, etc..

Before wet tanning became popular, dry tan was the only choice. Now I would never request a dry tan for any skin that is to be mounted. Not because the tan is not good, just because wet tanned capes save me time and effort. A rehydrated dry tan is a wet tan, so why not just get it wet tanned to begin with? Just my opinion, each to their own

Oh yeah, this debate only applies to skins tanned here. If your skins have been tanned in Africa, a dry tan is the only option. I do not recommend using an African tannery. If you must, I would only use them for flat skins or rugs. There may be some good tanneries in Africa, I just like to know exactly what I am dealing with.

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I just have noticed that tanned skins that have been in a freezer a long time are often more difficult to work with. certain areas have to be soaked again because the freezer has sucked all the moisture out of them.

Grafton hit the nail on the head. That's why you NEVER wrap anything to be mounted in paper (of any kind) before freezing. Paper acts like a sponge; it will pull the moisture out of your trophy. I'm with the wet tan crowd on game heads to be mounted.
LDK

Some good info here. I also like most of what Grafton has stated in his last post. While I have kept wet tanned capes for over 4 years, I do not like working with them and have found it is harder to get the cape's potential to come back in the mount.

Colin- I would recommend you 2 different options for your circumstance:

1- If you are unsure when you will be able to mount your trophies, look at the option of selling the capes (depending on legality and how common the trophies are) and purchasing replacements at a future date.

2- Pay a taxidermist to prep the capes for mounting and then freezing them. This will allow for a longer life in the freezer and make them much easier to work with down the road. I do this with all my longterm waiting customers. (It truely is amazing how long some people want to wait before getting their trophies back)

quote:

Originally posted by Grafton:
You can have your capes wet tanned or dry tanned. If they are dry tanned, they do not have to go into the freezer. However, they must be rehydrated before mounting. Also I believe a wet tanned cape stored in the freezer will last longer than a dry tanned cape. Wet tanning is more suitable for taxidermy puposes. In my experience dry tanned capes tend to break down over time, become more difficult to work with and it can be difficult to get a good stretch out of them. Also a wet tanned cape in the freezer is protected from insects, rodents, pets etc.. They do not take up that much room. You would be surprised to see how many tanned capes you can fit into a freezer! A dry salted (untanned) skin will last a long time too if it is stored properly.

My preference, and my recommendation to you is to have your skins wet tanned by a good tannery in the US, then seal them tightly in bags, label, and freeze. Mounting them within two years is best, to help avoid freezer burned ears, feet etc..

You could also pay a deposit/storage fee to a taxidermist and have them stored there.

Good luck.

Thanks for the information.

All good sound professional advice, but I just wanted to add if you are planning on making any rugs out of any of the trophies you will definitly want to have them dry tanned. The step imperative to a good end result on a rug is omitted in the wet tanning process. That is tumbling. Tumbling slightly breaks the leather fibers and softens the hide, which isn't necessary when a skin goes on a form, but is imperative for quality results on a rug. It will make the difference between a soft, supple, luxurious rug -vs- a stiffer, rawhidish, rigid rug. Dry tanned skins can also be frozen as mentioned above.

Kind regards,
Mary

I learned quite a lot from this thread. Thank you, all.

That is a very good point Mary. Although my tanner tumbles even the wet hides and breaks them, which make them a joy to work with.

I should also note that my post on prepping the capes before freezing was directed at Tanned Capes.

MC,

Selling the capes is a very good idea, I didn't think about that. I will probably just leave them or have some tanned as rugs/throws and then get new capes when I have the European mounts redone as Shoulder mounts.

Colin