I posted this in the knife forum, but I thought it more appropriate here:

Ok Guys here is the situation:

I bought from Knives of Alaska:
1. Jaeger boning-caping knife (ATS-34)3.5" cutting edge

2. Muskrat- fleshing-skinning (D2)

Now, I fell in love with the Bear Cub- Caping knife (AUS-8A)


That is three knives.

I currently always carry a SAK (Swiss Army Knife). Gerber now sold to a friend that read my post (thanks Jeremy)

Now I have 4 knives total, plus a Wyoming Saw and A Gerber Pack Axe (short version).

In the past, I used only the SAK for everything- caping, boning, gutting etc. and Razor blades for fleshing out cape.

What would you carry on a float/pack moose hunt?
What would you carry on a backpack sheep hunt?
What would you carry on a spot and stalk Elk-deer hunt?

I feel that I now have too many choices - help narrow down my selection to what you would carry from the above.

I use a Randall model 23 for most hunting/fishing/camp chores.It really doesn't matter what the game is that I am hunting but I also usually have a Wyoming saw along as well.

I have too many knives for my own good, but if I want to use a lightweight knife that really holds up and really cuts for my own elk and deer hunts, I use a Benchmade "Griptillian" with a plain edge. Benchmade uses superb steel, and they'll resharpen your knives for you to a razor's edge for life for a nominal fee. Since they're made in Oregon City, OR, which is about an hour's drive away fro me, I take a batch of them in for resharperning about once a year. Benchmade makes the best knives in the world for the money, of that I'm convinved. I was a long-time Gerber user, but after I discovered Benchmade, I quite Gerber in a hurry.

For hunts where I want to use a fancier knife, like African safaris, I carry either a Randall sheath knife, or else a folding Chris Reeve 'Sebenza'.

My favorite Randall is the #3-5" with a plain maroon Micarta handle, Swedish tool-steel blade, and a special-order left-hand sheath without the honing stone pouch. I use a left-hand sheath because it positions the knife on the opposite side from which I carry the rifle, so the rifle butt doesn't hit the knife handle.

The Randall #3-5" is one of my true passions when it comes to hunting gear. It's a beautifully balanced knive, beautiful to look at, and beautifully made, but really rugged. The design of its blade is nearly perfect, and once properly sharpened, that Randall-forged and hand-ground Swedish tool-steel blade can be honed to a better, longer-lasting edge than that of any other knife that I've ever used. If I could have only one hunting knife, it would be my Randall #3..........

AD

I carry my 3 knife set from Knives of Alaska (cleaver, knife with gut hook, and skinning knife.) and a folding bone/limb saw. Also never leave home without my pocket knife.

Lefty!!!
Gutting skinning and boning out with a SAK?
I assume it was a deer. It is feasable but to me, not the most practical tool for that job.

You did not list the blade lengths of your other knives. I am only familiar with your bearcub and hatchet.
It is nice to have a knive-collection..................but out there, they just add weight to your pack. At the end of the day, pragmatisme takes over quickly, when fatique sets in. Then..........pretty is as pretty does.

Your "take in the field" knife must be matched to the job, at the same time not be a burden to carry..
All I need for bear/deer/moose/elk gutting, skinning, boning out, is only one high quality lightweight blade and lightweight sharpener. My preference is a 4-6 inches long drop point blade like the coldsteel master hunter and a lightweight sharpener made by Myerco. Only if trophy hunting in remote areas, do I carry the bearcub caper. That is it for me. The less clutter and weight the more enjoyable the hunt.
My Victorinox butcher knives and saw, I leave in the truck or camp. If I have any need for those, I pick it up after I drop-off the first load of meat at camp or truck.

The cute looking hatchet you are talking about, is in my view a dangerous tool. I see no place in the hunting fields for it. It lacks weight in the head, therefore very prone to glance off on bone or wood, exposing yourself to serious injury way-out in the boonies, moreover, you do not need a hatchet if you have a Wyoming saw.. Use the hatchet as a wall hanger, kitchen tool for chopping cabage/carrots or give it to someone you intensely dislike.

A 3 inch fixed blade or folder, is in my view good for gutting, skinning and boning of deer and sheep, but gutting only of elk and moose. Barely practical for the boning skinning of those large animals.

"What would you carry on a float/pack moose hunt?"

Take whatever you want, but I'd get a bigger axe (or a small chainsaw with peanut oil for bar oil).

"What would you carry on a backpack sheep hunt?"

I'd take the Jaeger boning-caping knife, the Muskrat, and a small SAK, and maybe the Wyoming saw.

"What would you carry on a spot and stalk Elk-deer hunt?"

I'd take the same as the back-pack sheep hunt, but definitely the Wyoming saw.

That answers for what you currently have. I am planning on a caribou hunt in about 18 months and will be making similar choices. I will probably take my Wenger-Spyderco folder (ATS-34), my Boker stockman (I never leave home without it - unless I'm in dress pants), a saw of some type (don't have one yet), and my Gerber multiplier. I will also carry a scalpel with extra blades for caping work, a small wire saw, and perhaps a small chisel and hammer to help get that hide off from around the antlers (I sliced the crap out of my finger using a regular knive this past year) . Also, a recommendation from "Hunting Hard ... In Alaska!" by Marc Taylor is a Ulu (from Knives of Alaska) for fleshing out a cape and/or hide. Oh, and a DMT folding diamond hone.

Depends were and how i hunt,i use in no particular order,buck folder 110 ranger,scharade sharpfinger,schrade skinner sheath knife,Casexxrazor sheath knife,several custom sheath knifes that i use butchering as well.life is to short to hunt with just one knife when there are so many good ones to play with,they are kinda like potatoe chips you just cant have only one!I retired a couple old favorites,before i lost them.Smallest knife i use is the sharpfinger,it is a handy little bugger,I highly recommend those ,and for quartering, all the various bucks have done good work in the folder and general sheath knife.Those bucks are sharp when new.I like a really sharp knife for bear and hog hunting with a big blade in case i get in a tight spot i can fight backHand to hand combat,they will never take me alive!!!!!
We always come out after dark from our stands and unload the rifles for safety sake and a good knife is all you got when going thru the palmetto thickets!Exciting!Big lone outlaw boars just want to fight they dont like nothing or nobody and are not scared of the devil! Some places i hunt you have to use silver tip bullets just in case the chuba cabra or wolf man trys to get you.The old swamps that have never been cut never see daylight in the middle of the day!They are spooky as hell and if you get hurt bad its a long way to civilization to crawl.Ever see southern comfort the movie,thats what its like.Whimpy Knifes need not apply. A good knife can save your life is my moto and never cared how much one cost if it was what i really wanted as i know it will earn its keep and be a bargain in the long run.You can tell a lot about a hunter by checking how sharp his knife is. It aint nothing to have to climb a tree to escape a wild boar charge in the dark or the day,those real russian boars will kill you and dont think other wise,i call them american rhino!Have seen 3 in my day that would tip scale at 475#Redsow &Jet black 500 +russian-Dead & 500+ easy,Trapped -jet black alive,.Russian,The riverbottoms have them all over you just gotta go get them and it is not a easy hunt whatsoever and not for the meek and mild!They dont never come easy and without risk.Cheers!

I bring an 18V Dewalt Reciprocating saw and an old Puma White Hunter (awesome knife). That will take care of Mr. Swamp Donkey.

quote:

Originally posted by shrike:
Lefty!!!
Gutting skinning and boning out with a SAK?
I assume it was a deer.

Deer, Black Bear, Elk and Caribou! I have done it all- mind you that is why I went on a shopping spree and got the Knives of Alaska, the Gerber, the Wyoming Saw and the Gerber Pack Axe.

Shrike, I will edit my post to include blade lengths and photos where applicable.

Mine are simple and inexpensive. I carry a CRKT Point Guard (it's also my everyday carry knife), a Spyderco/Keating Chinook folder (best skinner I've ever used) and a K-bar USMC for heavier stuff. Mind you I don't hunt anything larger than deer and hogs. If I was hunting something like elk or larger or in very remote areas I would replace the K-Bar with something larger and add a saw to my pack.

I carry a marbles hunting knife and a stone. I like to keep it simple with a single sharp quality knife.

You know, I almost fell into that mindset that everybody else did, not really answering your question about the knives that YOU have. I would carry the Muskrat and the boning knife for all of the above hunts. I think besides shape, the ATS-34 and D-2 Steel are better than AUS-8. You might want to look into knives with S30V steel if you ever get around to buying other knife. That steel is even better than the ATS-34.

I usually carry my 60yr old Marbles Ideal sheath knife with 5" blade. If I want something off the belt, it's my prewar Remington bullet knife, folds up and fits in the pocket just fine, but big enough to tackle just about anything.

gixxer, is the Blade Material: CPM-S30V the same as S30V?

I see where Spiderco advertises the CPM-S30V.

Yes, that is the blade steel that I was talking about. I have been reading in knife magazines that the S30V is like the best thing since sliced bread. After getting my Gerber Freeman with the S30V, I believe it. Cabelas has the Gerbers in S30V, and also the Alaskan guide series by Buck in S30V also. If you wanted to spend a lot of money, a lot of custom knife makers use the steel too, but the best bang for the buck is the Gerber or Alaskan Guide Buck. Glad I did not buy the Alpha hunter in ATS-34, now I can get it with the good stuff, along with the Spyderco Chinook II.

I carry a one of those stubby T-handled Whitetail Hunters with a gut hook and serrated section, a wire saw for the pelvis and a cheapish folding Tanto for when I need to stab a heart or do something else requiring a longer blade.

I use a buck112 folder. I keep it very sharp and take a wetstone with me. I have used it on an elk, a few deer and a couple of moose. I have to touch it up a couple times with the stone while cutting up a moose.

The knives you are showing I would take a couple of the ones in the bottom pic for any of the hunts you mention. Maybe add the skinning knife for the sheep hunt if you plan on keeping the cape. Just a thought.

A buddy of mine just took a half dozen disposable trappers skinning knives about $1 each on a sheep hunt. He said they are very sharp and it takes about four of them to do a moose. Just toss them when done.

I carry a Remington Big game folder the one with the saw blade and a leatherman tool. This is for 99% of my hunting. I have also carryed a extra 4in fixed blade if I know I am going to be skinning something big.

When hunting in areas where cutting poles or small trees could be handy I belt ax or a large fix blade knife will come along.

I take my Buck Folder and a Shrade strait blade with a folding saw.Last year the Buck held it's edge through the whole Elk..Surprised me.

Good luck........Jayco

All are gathering dust other than a Sebenza for every day and a Ironwood handled Scott Cook for bigger hunts, both in S30V. Can't say enough about the steel, probably have not tested it's toughness as of yet but for edge holding and cleanup it's tops.

Chris Reeve's "Skinner" is tops for me as I abuse my knives horribly. I have used it as a pry bar and hammer, whacked the back end of it with a rock when encountering a stubborn joint, then used it to subtly flesh out a cape. The knife does it all and , even though pricey, is worth twice the price.

Best,

JohnTheGreek

I carry two knives. The Cold Steel Pendelton Hunter, and the Shrade Sharp Finger.

Randall #25
Scott Cook Large Owyhee
Benchmade SB50 SBT AFO Auto anodized blade. jorge

quote:

Originally posted by gixxer:
You know, I almost fell into that mindset that everybody else did, not really answering your question about the knives that YOU have. I would carry the Muskrat and the boning knife for all of the above hunts. I think besides shape, the ATS-34 and D-2 Steel are better than AUS-8. You might want to look into knives with S30V steel if you ever get around to buying other knife. That steel is even better than the ATS-34.

How is the S30V steel "better" than the ATS-34 steel?

http://www.safariclub.org/sitelink/index.cfm?contentID=307

http://www.bladesbybrown.com/aug04review.htm

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1660197

Here are 3 web pages where some folks talk about how CPM S30V is a higher grade steel than ATS 34(which for the record is the same exact thing as 154CM, only difference is 154CM is made in USA By Crucible Steel, ATS-34 in Japan, do not remember the MFG name.

I'm a Marbles man, the old Marbles that is, the one s they use to make out of 52100 steel. They were made not far down the road from our Yooper hunting camp and it was easy to get some special ones with sambar, buffalo, or impala horn handles. The old form fitted sheaths are a great way to carry them.
Over the years I've managed to collect about 10 of them and find their Plainman is about as nice as they come except maybe the bone handled Loveless drop point,
There are a bunch of great knives out there, from full customs to semi-customs, to factory made models. I've found that the price does not necessarily indicate the quality of the knife and just like rifles sometimes you pay more for the name.

quote:

Originally posted by CanadianLefty:
I posted this in the knife forum, but I thought it more appropriate here:

Ok Guys here is the situation:

I bought from Knives of Alaska:
1. Jaeger boning-caping knife (ATS-34)3.5" cutting edge

2. Muskrat- fleshing-skinning (D2)

Now, I fell in love with the Bear Cub- Caping knife (AUS-8A)


That is three knives.

I currently always carry a SAK (Swiss Army Knife). Gerber now sold to a friend that read my post (thanks Jeremy)

Now I have 4 knives total, plus a Wyoming Saw and A Gerber Pack Axe (short version).

In the past, I used only the SAK for everything- caping, boning, gutting etc. and Razor blades for fleshing out cape.

What would you carry on a float/pack moose hunt?
What would you carry on a backpack sheep hunt?
What would you carry on a spot and stalk Elk-deer hunt?

I feel that I now have too many choices - help narrow down my selection to what you would carry from the above.

I have all sorts of knives from Gerber to Knives of Alaska, etc., but those usually stay in my backpack. Here is what has worked for me for the past eight years: I hunt large game such as moose, and use a "skinner" made by Vitorinox. This knife is sold by quite a few retailers, and costs around $14.00. The blade is made of surgical steel, it's approximately 6" in length, while the handle is made of some black color non-skid plastic that resists bacteria. The blade is very thin, and extremely hard to sharpen unless you can use a Lansky or similar sharpening kit set at approximately 17 degrees. The problem with this knife is that it does not come with a sheath, so you must make one out of leather.

Now, once you have found the proper sharpening angle, you can shave with this knife. No kidding! best of all, I have often skinned two moose without having to use a steel on the blade. But I never use a steel to touch the blade, since I always have two of these skinners with me when I hunt.

I have tried many knives, and they all work to one point or another, but there is nothing like the cheap knife i have told you about.

I pretty much carry the same combo whether it's in the alpine for sheep or dealing with a moose or elk

1- a standard heavy bladed hunting knife (varies w/ my mood, sometimes a folder, sometimes other)

2- a Forschner boning knife (those are also known as Victorinox, just a different pattern from their skinners like Ray uses)

this works well becaue I'm often boning critters out

the KOA jaeger looks like a pretty good boning knife, though I like a bit of flex and it's rigid- helps when boning to have some flex but not as much as a filet knife

I've looked at knives a lot lately, and gixxer is on the money, for the $$$ the Cabela's alaskan guide and gerber freeman in S30V are tough to beat, I'd like to handle a freeman

That Freeman has checkering on the handle, feels almost like a mini riflestock...

Buck folding hunter.

I keep it simple.


Scott Cook-damascus Large
DeFeo- Bowie
Dave Clements SW 50 Special

Sean

Wyoming saw. Cold Steel Mater Hunter.

DH Russell original belt knife, a Browning 810 folder, and the original Wyoming saw.

A buck folder 110 for deer. I like it, it is not to heavy and if I loose it I can buy another at Wal-Mart on the way home. To me it is more important if it is sharp and will stay that way with little help from me.

Like the man told me at my sons young hunter safety course a survival knife is the one that stays in your pocket.

All of the fancy knives I have arnt worth a dam if I forget to carry them.

CPM S60V is Carpenter's equivalent to 440V. A fine steel that has some improved toughness over ATS-34 without getting silly as CMP10V, CruWear, or VascoWear. Means it is sharpenable by a mear mortal without power tools, and holds an edge well.

It also has about the highest corrosion resistance that is sensible.

This relatively small improvement over Hitachi ATS-34 comes at a cost ... is almost 3 times as expensive.

ATS-34 and 154CM are NOT the same material. 154CM was invented by NASA and production originally held to very high standards. 154CM was a triple vacuum melt material once upon a time. It no longer is ... and that means the starting material is not as clean. I really hate it when inclusions show up as a blade goes to final polish.

We like to take both S60V and ATS-34 to about RC59-60 and include full cryo in the HT. Properly HT'd ATS-34 is still a very fine material that will take and hold an edge beyond the average person's experience with a good knife.

Given the cost of the material, we recommend S60V (440V) only when corrosion resistance will be tested by use in salt water.

quote:

Originally posted by SouthpawDV:
DH Russell original belt knife.

EXACTLY... my favorite knife. It's perhaps the best hunting knife ever devised and must be tried to be believed.

I have over 20 knives in my collection. For hunting Buck 110 folder is always on my belt. Ka Bar 7" blade in the bag. I don't like carrying long knife around my waist.

Danny Boy

I use a buck sheath knife. It don't fold like the old 112 or 110. Just a good old knife. Sits on my belt waiting to be used.

quote:

Originally posted by jorge:
Randall #25
Scott Cook Large Owyhee
Benchmade SB50 SBT AFO Auto anodized blade. jorge

How long is the delivery on a Scott Cook knife? I was thinking of getting one, as I have heard nothing but good things about them.

I carry one knife on my belt, a custom RAMON.. The best knife I've ever used, had one made for my PH 2years ago, he uses it every day, loves it.

I also carry a smaller RAMON in my sack.