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I've been buying variables, 2x7 and 3x9 and I do have a few 2.5 power fixed. Generally I set the variable at 2x or 3x and use it there. If the game is far enough away to need higher than 3x power, you will have time to adjust it. Just keep it set low for moving around when game may jump up. | |||
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One of Us |
i have both fixed and variable, but if forced to select one type for all my hunting, i'd go with a variable. only because it gives more options. | |||
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one of us |
My fav. scope is a Burris Sig. 1.5-6,,, have them on my .223, 7mm-08, 2- 300WMs, Savage ML2 in 45cal, .22WMR, and a 30-30,,,,,also have a couple Burris sigs in 2-8 power, and one in 3-10 I believe on a 7mm-08,,, I never use it as I never need that much power around here. I almost always stalk/stillhunt and my scopes stay on 1.5 unless I have the oportunity and need to crank up to 6.... Location Western NC,,, via alot of other places, One wife Two kids Three Glocks and a couple cats. | |||
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One of Us |
i have owned a boat load of cheap, middle, and high dollar scopes but only one 6x42 all the rest were variable. I really do prefer the variable, I just dont see why a fixed is an advantage. My latest, the Schmidt & Bender Klassik 3-12x42, is really an awesome scope and probably is the best all around scope I have owned | |||
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one of us |
Thanks guys, this is what I've got so far 264 with 3.5-10x B&L 308 norma with 7x fixed Leupold 35 whelen AI with 6x weaver 375 h&h with 1.5-5 Leupold (IIRC) 30-06 is what I need a scope for, depending on cost, what deal I can find, I'm gonna go with the 2-7 or 2.5-8. I am still going to try to get a german #4 to try out (I have duplex, don't much like it, like CPC, and love a dot). I wish they were easier to get in gloss, I know some guys don't like it but it sure does clean easier. thanks for all the input guys. (and yes, I know I'm gun poor now, I'm not sure what happened, I've got to get some more!) | |||
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one of us |
Dago: 4As are not all made equal. The Germans have several sub-designations for that type of reticle. IMO the only real use for a 4A is one) fast centering on dangerous game or two)using for closer shots on animals, such as pigs at night, or other very dark conditions. That said, some of the 4As, such as Kahles, are not really any better than their regular "plex" since the heavy parts of the crosshairs are too far apart to really be useful IMO. OTOH, if you put the heavy parts close enough together to really do what they are intended to do, many people will complain, "I can't see the whole target".......well, duh, that's the point, they're for use in fast moving and/or low light situations where the luxury of clearly seeing the whole target is not the point, WHILE STILL ALLOWING THE SHOOTER TO EXACTLY POSITION LONGER SHOTS WITH THE SMALLER CENTER CROSSHAIRS, which is the only real advantage of the 4A over, say, the Leupie Heavy Duplex, which is also good for low light or fast work. Hard to please everyone, but take this into account when thinking of a 4A and see if a good one fits your hunting requirements. xxxxxxxxxx When considering US based operations of guides/outfitters, check and see if they are NRA members. If not, why support someone who doesn't support us? Consider spending your money elsewhere. NEVER, EVER book a hunt with BLAIR WORLDWIDE HUNTING or JEFF BLAIR. I have come to understand that in hunting, the goal is not the goal but the process. | |||
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I think I'll go with the Leupold Dot reticle, looks like I can get that one without paying an upgrade charge on the scope. VXII 2-7x thanks for the 411 on the germans. you know how it is, always wanting to try the one thing you haven't got a chance to yet. Red | |||
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