Can any of you folks recommend a folding hunting knife that will hold its edge without needing resharpending for an unbelievably long time for under $100.

How long a knife goes between sharpenings can depend a lot on how you use it. An elk or hog thats been wallowing in a mud hole can make the edge go south pretty fast. Hack away at a lot of bones while you're skinning/quartering/etc and you've got a dull knife pretty quick.
I had a knife maker make me two knives, one for me and one for my son. One is an absolute joy; the other is a POS. Needless to say, I got stuck with the shitty one.
I think for all around general handiness a Buck is hard to beat among the mass produced blades.
The trick to a sharp knife is to never let the knife get dull. Carry a small diamond hone with you and touch the blade up as you go along. You can also strop the blade on a leather boot top or the heel of your hand. If you're new at it however, you run the risk of fucking up a good pair of boots or severing an artery. Ideally, the knife will be as sharp when you finish as when you started.

Buck used to make a stone that went into a leather sheath same as the 110 knife does, goes right on the belt with the knife, very convenient.

My stepfather has used the same little folding buck for years and says it's all he thinks he'll ever need.

Red

I carry Buck knives, have for over 40 years. My favorite pocket knife is a Buck 501 lock-back that I've had for close to 25 years. Looking at it tells me that unless I loose it, it will outlast me. When hunting I carry a Buck Folding Hunter 110FG that I have carried for 30 years. It's going to outlast me too. I own 10 different Buck knives and have never had one fail me. Lawdog

I've really got the knife suggestion for you!

I've owned all kinds of knives in all price catagories, but the lowest-priced folding knife that's the best for the money (by far) in my experience is the old Case large one and two-blade folder. The one I'm referring to is not the stainless-steel job, but the version with the original, rusty-steel blade(s).

I can't tell you how many mule deer and elk I've used these knives on, but the number is considerable. One elk season about twenty years ago, I carried a Gerber folder on my belt and (as an experiment) a rusty-steel Case folder in my pack. Both started out equally sharp, but as usual, the Gerber's edge gave out in fairly short order. I pulled out the Case, and not only did it out-perform the Gerber, it outlasted it by maybe a two-to-one ratio. Back in camp, the Case was much easier to resharpen as well. I've never lost my respect for these Case knives in the years since.

The downside to these knives is that they don't have a locking mechanism, just a very stiff spring, so you have to be a little more careful as you use it, especially inside the animal. But they're inexpensive, superb-performing knives that you can hone to an absolute razor edge that'll really last and will resharpen with ease. In fact, my favorite caping knive (my taxidermist put me on to this one) is the rusty-steel, two-bladed case Trapper.

AD

That is interesting allen, I wounder if they are made from plain carbon steel 1095 like the "old timers" are. They are easy to sharpen and result in a scary -sharp blade.

Smallfry, I'm not sure of the exact steel Case uses, but those Old Timers you mentioned are another great, inexpensive (but not cheap!), rusty-steel knife that, as you said, will hold a scary-sharp edge.

You named another good option, alright!

AD

I'll have to agree with Allen's recommendation. I have a couple of old Case knives that were my grandpa's and they have unbelievable edges on them. The kind of edge you could shave with if you had to. A search on ebay should reveal a passel of them to mull over.

Allen makes a good point. A good knife is one that you don't have to labour over to bring the edge back. They can make them too hard. Then they're hard to sharpen and the edge chips right off.

Case.

kk

I wemt a little different route in knife selection. My finger nails are generally soft and get broken during hunting season and I have had trouble opening some of my folders. I went with a Piranha automatic. It opens with a push of a button and is very light. It is new but I hope to break it in soon. Not your traditional looking hunting knife but very well made and very light. $110 a copy

I've got both Case and Buck knives. The Case sharpens easier with a stone, while the Bucks, with their high carbon stainless alloy will last a little longer all things being equal.
The comment about not letting the blade get dull is right on, especially for Buck knives.
All this came to an end when I got a Lansky Sharpening Kit with their diamond stones. With them, I can reshape an edge, something I couldn't even hope to do with any of several excellent stones I own. Trust me, I've spent much of a day getting a dull Buck to where I could dry shave with it. With the Lansky System, I can get a Buck knife sharp enough to dry shave in an hour.
BTW, the last Bucks I bought needed to be reshaped, not good.
I carry a Buck Switch Blade knife for big game. It has a separate gut hook/blade, a skinning blade, a clip point blade, and a serrated blade. With a Sagen Saw, it is all I need. E

For the past 15 ;years or so I have used a Remington big game knife. I found tht it holds a edge real well and sharpens nicely.

I have had very good service with Puma pocket knives. I like them so much I got a Puma sheath knife. They hold a good edge and are easy to keep razor sharp.

how about an ol' timer. Thats all I have. Schrade owns them now

I use a circa 1983 Gerber Bolt Action Folder... it's tough, holds an edge, is wondefully light and has an inovative locking mechanism. If you search a bit you should be able to locate an origianl though I undestand an knock-off is being made by another company for around $55.

Katz, is a good one also

Maybe no one else likes them but I vote for the Cold Steel knives. Choice of steels, straight or serrated blades. You can even get what they call 2nds nothing wrong with them, just they don't feel its exceptional.

Eremicus: I could not agree more with your comments regarding the frustration of not being able to sharpen a knive with a stone.

I have a friend who is a natural at sharpening knives. It used to make me so mad that he could take my knive to the sink and spend 5 minutes with it and have it shaving sharp. I could spend hours and not get a good edge.

I now have a sharpening system (a copy of the Lansky) and I can sharpen a knive reasonably well. I guess I just don't have the patience to really get it right.

I wonder if any of the motorized sharpeners are any good.

Sorry for hijacking the thread.

cwilson

I was shown how to sharpen a knife with a stone years ago when I was roughneckingn on a drilling rig. First, go purchase one of those stones that is course on one side, and fine on the other side. You want the large one, and that means you will need to go to a "real" hardware store, ie Ace, etc. The size is approximately 2.5 inches by about 8 inches or so. Then, lay the blade on it's side at an angle and pull it towards you, without cutting yourself of course. As you are doing this, the "trick" is to simulate or try to shave off a thin slice of the top of the stone.

Start on the course side if your blade is extreamely dull. This is the best method I have found. I carry a folding Buck hunter that I have had for about 25 years, but I have a two bladed folding Old Timer also that is easy to sharpen.

I'll second the Cold Steel product line. While not a folder, I carry a Cold Steel Master hunter in Carbon V steel. That thing keeps an edge and when it needs to be freshed up I do it on a kitchen steel like I use for my Wustoff kitchen knives.
I have used it on three deer in a row before the edge needed some attention. The Carbon V tool steel is great for edge retention...just needs a little attention do it won't rust. But that's the tradeoff...
FWIW, Benchmade folders with tool steel also provide superior edge retention but cost slightly over $100.
If you all haven't tried the "Diamond Stone" brand sharpening stones, you should. They are superior to any natural stone I've ever used...a medium or large size whet-"stone" in medium and fine grit will get any knife edge muey sharp in no time at all.

[ 08-22-2003, 18:01: Message edited by: Kentucky Nimrod ]

can someone tell me "why" a serrated edge on a hunting knife???? Is it kinda like spiral flutes on a rifle barrel?? 'cause they look kewl?

I have used/owned Buck, Gerber and Browning. I have the Buck skinner and that holds an edge not bad. But for a knife to use in the field for gutting, etc. I like the browning knifes. I have both a folding and fixed blade knife. I like the way the feel and how well they keep an edge. But like so many people, I also use the Lansky system. I find if I start with a sharp knife that can shave hair with. I just lasts that much longer.

just my thoughts.

Graylake

Might want to check out the replys over on Bladeforums.

These guys know knives and give good advise about knives.

Here is a thread about just this question.

Bladeforums

[ 08-22-2003, 20:45: Message edited by: Elkslayer ]

I have a Chicgo 2-blade that I've used for years. At the begining of the season I sharpen it with a Lansky set-up and then touch up the edge after each deer with a ceramic stick.

Not very glamorus but it works for me.

Over the last 40+ years, I've used about every type of sharpening system around -- until I bought the one from Spyderco about 10 years ago. It's the one with the triangular-shaped ceramic stones and the diamond sheaths that slip over the the stones when needed. I rarely have to use the diamond hones except when my wife abuses the kitchen knives, which is quite often. In most cases, the stones are enough to put a razor edge on any of my hunting knives.

As for knives, I tend to go with those with softer carbon steels instead of those from Buck, etc. Although the edges don't last as long, the soft-steel blades touch up very quickly. That's why most professional butcher knives lean toward the soft end. -TONY

I'll second the Spyderco sharpners. I bought one at the Denver PKA Custom Knife show last weekend and re-shaped a few of my knives and put a shaving edge on them. Total time to re-shape and sharpen was about 30 minutes per knife.

I have a Lansky too but the Spyderco is much easier and quicker to use IMO.

Spyderco

Elkslayer,

I see where they replaced the slip-on diamond sleeves with triangular shaped ones as of 2002. Did you get them, or did you just used the ceramic stones for the reshaping process? -TONY

The set I got contains two ceramic stones AND two diamond stones. I used the diamond stones to reset the angle and then moved to the ceramic set of stones.

The person doing the demonstrating stated the diamond stones will eventually wear out but the ceramic never will.

The price was really cut (pun intended ) for the show, I couldn't say no!

Beemanbeme the reason for the serration is sometimes you might need a small saw and guess what you have it already. I bought a small VOYAGER at a gunshow for $20.00 best money I ever spent normally they run about $50.00. Wished I had bought the larger one now for the same price .

Oh, so it sounds like they now include the diamond stones with the kit rather than sell them as an add-on.

I can't even recall what I paid for mine, but like you, I bought it from the Spyderco rep at a sports show here in Phoenix. I also bought one of their smaller folding knives with with serrated blade. -TONY

Most of the popular modern brandname knives that cost $100 or more are made with the same crappy 440A stainless steel. Crappy for holding an edge great or rust protection.

Allen Day, Smallfry, and others are correct. the less expensive/older knives made with the various types of carbon steel cannot be beat. they get sharper to start with and stay sharper longer.

52-100 is my favorite steel for knives. I have 2 made by Marbles, but they are fixed blades.
Favorite folders are the old - Old Timers and to a lesser extent the older Case knives.

Also like the old Bokers with carbon blades, but no longer use these in the field. They have all been retired to live a pampered life on display.

If you want a modern folding knife with a carbon blade, then try Cold Steel's Carbon V knives. I never have because I prefer the traditional styled knives.

If you want edge holding stay away from 440A and AUS6

About a year ago Ross Seyfried wrote an article on folding hunting knives that appealed to me. He had fallen in love with knives made of ATS34 steel and said he could dress and quarter two or more elk with his with no need to resharpen. He used some high dollar custom knives but pointed out that A.G. Russell sold some good production knives made out of that steel for under $100. I bought one and have to date cleaned and butchered(I mean all the way down to wrapped and labeled cuts) one 160 lb. deer, two hogs (150 and 200 lbs.), and several squirrels without resharpening the blade. Don't get me wrong. I'm itching to work my magic on the knife but it's still SHARP. As I'm sure y'all know pigs will dull knives very fast, I'm amazed at the edge holding ability of this $90 knife. Here's the web page-http://www.agrknives.com/agrussell/a334.html , take a look.
One other thing, this is a hard stainless steel so you'll have to use a diamond set up to sharpen it unless you want to spend an afternoon wearing out regular stones. I recommend either the Lansky or Gatco sharpening systems, both are idiot proof with the Gatco being 2/3 the price of the Lansky, notice how I lean towards the cheap end of the scale?

[ 08-23-2003, 17:52: Message edited by: Lewis50 ]

For those of you out there that may be as lazy as I am: I have the knife sharpening set from Jantz Supply: http://www.jantzsupply.com/
With it, you can put a razor edge on anything! The quality of the steel will determine how long it lasts. An added plus, is that it puts on a factory-polished edge, and your knife looks like it has never been sharpened! It comes in a 6" or 8" model (I have the 8"), and the "grit" wheel can be renewed as needed. These kits are super for keeping your large kitchen knives super-sharp, and it only takes a couple minutes to sharpen/reshape an edge. The 6" kit is only $19.95 plus shipping. You do have to have a bench grinder, but everyone should have one of those. Then you just use your stone/hone for touch-ups in the field.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Bug. BTW, I have no financial attachment to Jantz, in any way!

I use the gerber gator with ats34 blade.It holds an edge much longer than any other knife that I have used yet costs under $70 in canada.

Lewis50, said it well, and in my experience the reason is the heat treating is critical as it is with most steel applications (rifles). I think that's why some mass produced knives hold an edge and others of the same model don't, the production control is lacking. AGR tries to make sure there suppliers are putting out a good product and the high end knive guys watch every detail carefully.

I've used a large EKA knife, the "Super Swede", for more years than I can remember. They have really good steel and you can choose between stainless and ordinary steel.

But I also have a set of butcher knives for that kind of work.

Finlanders make great knives.Meat knives work best with a 1000 grit edge,so use a 1000 grit Japanese water stone.The stone is more inportant than the knife.At home a 1"x42" belt sander is easier.

I had the misfortune during my college years to work on the kill floor of a pork processing plant, since it paid more than the typical fast food jobs, etc. I guess this makes me somewhat of an expert on knives, I worked with one in my hand 8 hours a day. I thought it was good to hear one guy brag about quartering two elk with one, I have used one knife all night long without touching the blade to a stone. By the way, this means I cut through the bone, cartilage, etc while removing the heads of 1300 hogs per night (3 men did 4200 per shift). Once you learn to steel a knife properly, a carbon-steel blade will almost never need to touch a stone, mine routinely get sharpened about every 5 years. The knives are sharpened by grinding a bevel with a hand whetstone wheel until a feather edge comes up. This means the two edges have come together, so it can't get any sharper, without a finer stone. A fine hard stone is used just until the feather edge is removed, remember any additional stoning after this only rounds the bevel, making it less durable. Now comes the hard part, you have to learn to steel it till the edge is perfectly straightened, a good way to test is when it will shave easily in both directions. Then use the knife, steel it 4 strokes, keep repeating, the knife will get sharper as you use it. Almost all the stainless blades are crap, chip like hell when bone is struck, while rusty steel will lay the edge over, and you steel it back straight. Of the reasonable priced folding knives, I like the Gerber blades the best. Learn to steel it properly and the longer you keep the knife away from the stone, the better off you'll be.