I supose this subject has been worn out here. But if someone could educate me on the good the bad and the ugly of moly coating. And were to get the device to apply to my bullets.Thanx

There is a trick to tumbled,moly coating bullets so that the moly stays on and it has nothing to do with heating or cleaning bullets beforehand.Besides making cleaning easier,and increasing barrel life,moly gives you the same velocities at less pressure compared to uncoated bullets.I coat all the bullets I fire in each one of my rifles.If you shoot alot and want to coat bullets with the least hassle,I recommend you purchase the NECO kit with the Viking tumbler.

Other than a bit less fouling and easier cleaning (perhaps), I found very little benefit to moly coating bullets.

Agree the NECO kit does a good job but moly not too hard to put on w/less expensive Midway process and no steel balls to separate from bullets. I used both.

Velocity will drop off w/same loads fired using naked bullets but can be brought back up by increasing powder charge.

Some rifles will shoot different POI after cleaning and until barrel is "seasoned" by shooting moly coated fouler(s). I was fortunate in that both my target rifles shot same POI w/without foulers but a hunting rifle in same caliber (30-06) required a fouled bore to shoot POA.

I'm sure some will argue better barrel life w/moly, but barrels wear out in the throat and, IMHO, burn out more than wear out due to friction and moly can't protect the throat from heat IMO.

I tried it in my target rifles for a couple of years, shooting at least 100 rds. per week and finally gave it up as I could shoot >200 rounds w/o any accuracy loss and without cleaning w/naked bullets. The only benefit that I derived from moly was a bit less copper fouling so a few less patches to clean.

Others may have had different results.

Regards,
hm

snakeoil and hookum ..
oh, SURE you can get more vel, if you add powder, in SOME cases ..

what's 50fps? who cares .. the game animals don't

if you use more of the same powder, fellas, you ARE having a higher initial pressure, full stop

if you need that "Additional" 100fps, get a bigger caliber.

not worth the hassle

jeffe

good info:

http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html

http://accurateshooter.wordpre...bullet-lube-sources/

http://www.jarheadtop.com/articles_MolyBullets.htm

http://www.shootingsoftware.com/ftp/molytech.txt

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
snakeoil and hookum ..
jeffe

A big amen.
I could never buy into that molly coated bullet stuff, and never shot one out of one of my good barrels, never will..

Hey 30-06 hunter, Moly Coated Bullets are one of the very best things to come along for people who shoot a good bit. If a person doesn't shoot very much, then it might not be worth the extra effort. For me, it has far exceeded what I wanted it to do.

You are looking for the answer on the wrong Board though. If you had gone to the "Reloading Board" and used the "Find" Button at the top of the page, you would have located a bunch of threads on it. Here is a response from me on one of them:

The real mess is getting your initial set-up working properly. Some folks use the "Pill Bottle"(tight lids on jars inside the tumbler) and some(like me) just dedicate a tumbler bowl to do it in.

And there are a few more steps than just taking a bullet out of the box and putting it into a case.

1. Wash the bullets in hot water with Dawn dishwashing liquid soap. Let them soak in it for 20-30min and swish them around every 5min or so. Rinse in hot water a couple of times and set in the sun on a towel to dry. You do this to remove the Forming Die Oil from the Bullet Jackets. As far as I know, Sierra is the only Bullet Manufacturer to wash their Bullets prior to shipment. Don't know if they still do or not.

Never touch the bullets with your hands once the rinsing begins until the Carnuba is on them.

2. Put the clean dried bullets in your Pill Bottles (or bowl) with a box or two of "Plated BBs" and maybe 1/4 teaspoon of MOS2. Let the BBs "peen" the Moly into the jackets for a couple of hours.

3. Separate the Moly Coated bullets from the BBs with a collander or slotted spoon.

4. Take untreated corncob and treat it with "Liquid Kit" Car Wax in a clean bowl. Let it tumble for an hour or so to let the Wax get on all the cob. When you reach in to feel the cob, it should feel waxy to the touch. If not, add some more wax and let it run another hour or so. Once it is waxy, you are ready for the last step.

5. Put the Moly Coated bullets in the bowl with the "Carnuba Wax Coated Cob" and tumble them for only 1 minute.

6. You can now remove the bullets with your fingers and place them in boxes for loading.
...

I originally got into MOS2 because of an article in Precision Shooting. There was even a link to it on the net for awhile, but it is no longer active. The thing that got my attention was where NORMA had done some testing with it on a "HOT" 6.5mm and had many thousands of bullets through the barrel "with no signs of accuracy degredation".(May have been 9.5k-10k rounds, I just don't remember.)

So, I got into it in order to "preserve" a barrel on one of my rifles. I really dread the day it will eventually need to be replaced. It is one of those rare barrels that likes just about any powder and bullet combination you put in it. So far, the Moly is doing just great in it.
...

Concerning the Moly drawing moisture, there is a lot of strange info out there concerning this. It seems that some folks got the mistaken impression that just because "some of" the Bench Rest folks go a weekend using Moly without cleaning their barrels, then if you use Moly you no longer need to clean barrels. I think this is what caused the confusion to begin with.

However, I still clean my barrels after shooting them. Even clean them between groups at the Range. It takes a couple of passes with a Nylon Bore Brush and a little Bore Cleaner. Wipe it dry with a couple of patches and then "lightly" grease or oil the bore and you are done. Doing this, I've never had a single problem with "rust" inside a barrel I use Moly Coated bullets in.

In order to Moly Season the Bore, use a tight fitting Paper Patch and Pre-Form it to the Bore by making a couple of strokes in the clean barrel. Put a slight bit of Oil on the paper Patch and then sprinkle a bit of Moly Powder on the Paper Patch. Now, give the Bore a few strokes with it. remove the patch from the Bore, turn it just a bit and repeat the stroking. This will lay an initial layer of Moly down in the Bore.

I agree it is not for everyone, but I'll continue to use it until something better comes along.

Good Hunting and clean 1-shot Kills.

I think you need to ask "Why do I want to shoot moly coated bullets?". If you haven't answered that question already then it should be asked. There are are variety of possible answers eg.
They shoot more accurately.
I can get better (higher) velocity with the same pressure.
I would need to clean the gun less often.
etc.
As I recollect some benchrest shooters started shooting molys, won some matches and then the crowd followed.
Having said all that, I have some 180 CT moly coated bullets that shoot much better (more accurately) in my several 300WMs and 30.06's than the corresponding 180 NPs. They were successfully hunted with in Africa. They don't make them any more.
Just FWIW, Peter.

About the only rifle I can say I saw any major benefit was a 17Rem. W/O Moly maybe 10 shots and accuracy would go south. W/Moly I could shoot 100+ w/o cleaning.

WN

i ahve tried them in 257 roberts and 257xWSM, 300 win, 358win, and 450 alaskan .. just freaking hated the "20 shots to season the barrel" BS .. and velocity going DOWN from uncoated bullets .. did I get more, with more powder? yeah ... meaningless .. it was like an hours work for 50fps .. screw THAT

I use moly coated bullets for competition and prairie dog shooting.

I feel they foul the barrel less, climb the wind less, and increase barrel life.

I clean my moly barrels the same as other barrels, but they can go longer before needing cleaning.

I don't believe moly makes a rifle more accurate.

You must add more powder to achieve the same pressure and velocity as a naked bullet.

I only use moly in my 20BR. The only reason is having to clean less often, which is nice in an active prairie dog town. I clean only with Kroil and JB on a patch wrapped around a worn brush.

Peter, I believe the CT bullets were Lubalox coated, not Moly, big difference. But I could be mistaken.

I have never seen a reason to go to the trouble of coating a bullet, but if I did, I would use Fastex instead.

Larrys, could be, I never checked, but they do shoot very well! I too have successfully resisted the urge to shoot moly bullets. My understanding is that the moly phenomenon has passed.
Peter.

No doubt in my mind when Winchester started topping nickle cases with black bullets I said WOW that looks cool. But I have pulled moly coated bullets and laughed at the amount of moly that was scraped away by the case.

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
... I have pulled moly coated bullets and laughed at the amount of moly that was scraped away by the case.

Ted has made an excellent observation. There are two things which help avoid this situation:
1. Peen the Moly into the Jacket, do not use Moly spray-on.
2. After Deburring and Champfering the Case Mouth, always "Polish" it with 0000SteelWool wrapped around an old 22cal Bore Brush. Just stick the Brush in a plastic RCBS handle or the wooden one from the Lyman VLD tool. No need for a Power tool to do the turning.

Then when the Bullets are Seated, the Moly remains on the Bearing Surface. Otherwise, you wasted your time and as Ted said, the Moly is gone.

Wow what a bunch of good people. Give exelent advice.I new I was going to like this site.

One other piece of info, I have a 270 with a ludicrus amount of shots through it without cleaning the barrel other than to pass a patch or two with some ballistisol on it to 'knock out the loose stuff' powder residue mainly I suppose, and the thing just shoots great, I have always used the CT Lubalox coated bullets or bullets I moly coated with the Lyman system.

I really like the Lyman moly coating kit, it comes with 2 small bowls that just go inside of my regular tumbler, and one has ceramic media that 'peens' the moly into the bullets, and the other one is set up to do the waxing process, it works great, and the bullets are clean to handle. I feel it has promoted consistency out of the rifles I shoot the coated bullets in, and I definitely like the Lyman system for doing it, I tried several, it is clean and simple for me.

good luck--Don

Moly: just another thing that could go wrong.

Plus it gets all over your fingers, then gets transferred to everything else in the house.

Some people love moly on bullets and in bores.

Some hate it.

Others don't give a s--- either way.

The peak of moly popularity does seem to have passed once again. I say "once again", as there was also a short-lived flurry of it in the early 1900s and again in 1920's & 30's.

Among the various doubtful claims made for it in recent years (in Precision Shooting magazine) was NECO/Norma's claim that it actually helped bullets maintain velocity by causing them to pass through the air more easily...rriiggghhhtttt....(big sigh)

Apparently those making that claim never looked at photos of the air pressure wave(s) around a bullet in flight.

Anyway, I tried molying my stuff. Got both the NECO and Midway kits (won one NECO kit in a benchrest match where I WASN'T using moly'd bullets and others were, which I find rather ironic.)

After somewhat less than a year of experimenting with it, I quit using moly. Wasn't and isn't worth my trouble. I can do anything I need my guns for without the time and trouble of using it. Also don't need another variable to constantly deal with in my loads.

Don't need it to ease cleaning of my barrels. I don't CARE what they look like inside. What I care about are how well they shoot and how long they last. They shoot well enough un-moly'd to win with. They last long enough to suit me. Why waste my time gilding the lily? I use the time putting rounds downrange instead. I find skills maintenance a more useful application of my time.

None of that says anything about whether other people find molying useful. Some do. They like moly. They find it worth THEIR time and money, and it IS their time and money. So I can't criticize THEIR choice.

I just find moly'd bullets or bores to not be MY choice. I would recommend you buy some bullets which are sold already professionally moly coated, try them over an extended test period, and you decide for yourself.

It'll be fun, whichever you eventually choose, yea or nay, and the additional shooting can't hurt your skills or anyone else's.