Reloader did your groups look like the one below.This was with a new(junk ) rem sps out of the box,nothing done to it except lighten the triger.
I have several rifles in win,rem,sav,ruger,and browning and I like the brownings just as much as the others,one thing about them they shoot.Have 3 browning one in 270wsm,300wsm and 7 mag.All are ss stalkers and I don't think any of my rifles are junk regardless of manufactor or where they are made,I bought them for the fun of shooting.I agree tho that they are good ones and bad ones from either manufactor.

Owensby,

Not quite that far but, similar results.

.5-.7 range at 200 and .1-.2 at 100. Haven't got the mic on em' yet. I was breaking in the bbl on a new Sendero as well as shooting my 700P. Bone Stock w/ the triggers lightened to 2.75lbs. The 700 P will shoot one hole at 100 and .5-.7 at 200 if I do my part. The Sendero went about .5 w/ a couple of loads and 1" at 200, not bad considering I just broke her in and started load development, I think she'll do better after some tinkering w/ diff loads. I think I'll hang on to my "Junk" for awhile .

Reloader

While my A-Bolt II isn't pretty (Composite Stalker w/BOSS in 7mm RM), it is my most accurate medium bore and I have not had any issues with the rattles, jams, misfeeds, screws loosening or anything else. Aim at deer's vitals, press trigger, and field dress.

Boy, the subject of A-bolts sure gets the feathers up on some folks.

I've got one - synthetic stalker with BOSS in 300 win mag. The local shop had one at a give away price so I decided to take a flyer on it - if it didn't work I figgured I could sell it for about what I paid for it.

I topped it off with a Zeiss Conquest, found a nice 3/4" load for 180 gr. tsx's, and a one hole load for 168 gr tsx's.
I haven't had any problems with it either, and I'm not being too nice to it - it's meant to be used, not looked at, and we're both holding up our ends of the deal.

And I won't be putting it up for sale.

Cheers.

quote:

Originally posted by bowhuntrrl:

quote:

Originally posted by allen day:
Accurate junk.

Meaning what ????

Keep in mind, Allen is "too good" to soil his hands with any rifle that costs less than $10,000 or so...and even though I've corrected him numerous times he still purposely spouts falsities about potmetal, etc....

Anyway, I love mine to death (both of them). Here's one (my 300 RUM):

I'm with Allen, Brad, and Kutenay, and I actually owned one for a while. I got a great price on a used Hunter in 7-08 for one of my sons. To say I was not impressed would be an understatement. The quality of materials (lots of pot metal),the needless complexity and apparent flimsiness of the bolt and magazine, and the fact that the magazine rattled around as you walked through the woods convinced me to get rid of it, in spite of the fact that it was a pretty accurate gun with many loads. I simply didn't feel that it was a quality gun; in fact, far from it. Stubblejumper's comment about delivering more felt recoil than you'd think matches with my experience, too. My son did not like shooting the A-bolt even though it was only a 7-08, and instead preferred to shoot my old Rem 660 in .308. An acquaintance who hunts with a Composite Stainless Stalker in .30-06 claims that his kicks a lot harder than my M70 in the same chambering. He hates shooting his A-bolt from the bench, but doesn't mind my gun at all. Still, he likes his A-bolt and uses it as his main gun.

I used to be a big Browning user. Matter of fact, I still own a couple of the old safari grades. Wasn't oo happy when they stopped making those, and I'm not averse to buying jap stuff.

Hell I own a couple of jap Weatherbys and they are superb. Then the Abolt came out and
I bought one for my father in law.

Very accurate. BUT....we had problems with the ejector, and we attempted to field strip the bolt. BIG mistake. It has got to be the most rube-goldberg overengineered piece of crap I've seen to date. Well a Browning dealer up in PA fixed it. No biggie. Next season he was shooting at a ground hog of the back porch and with the recoil the aft end of the trigger guard struck the metal rail and broke it in two pieces as well as the floorplate frame. I have news for you: IT IS POT METAL. But they sure are accurate...accurate junk. jorge

quote:

Originally posted by jorge:aft end of the trigger guard struck the metal rail and broke it in two pieces as well as the floorplate frame.

I highly recommend anybody with a model of Remington or Winchester that also comes with an aluminum trigger guard, or a Savage with a plastic one (as mine came with), go out right now and fire the rifle with a rigid steel bar sitting right behind the trigger guard.

OK, I take that back. I really don't suggest anybody try that....

quote:

I have news for you: IT IS POT METAL.

And I have news for you! The above models are potmetal too! And their barrels are made from balsa wood! And 2 + 2 = 5!

Doesn't honesty, telling the truth, replying with correct information instead of internet rumors mean anything to you people? I couldn't bring myself to post something I knew for a fact was false. Maybe that's just me. Or maybe you guys are just pleading ignorance--you can't do that when you've been corrected many times.

A long time ago I put up $100 for anybody who could correctly define Pot Metal as would be used in this application and then provide any evidence whatsoever that A-Bolts have any of it.

My money has been very safe. For those who would like to try, here's a hint: Measure the density of the metal, which is pretty easy to do, (weigh it, measure its volume) because the density of cast aluminum is quite a bit less than any recipe of potmetal one can come up with. I have done the above. Have you?

The low density of the aluminum saves weight, just like it does in the wheels on your car. Potmetal wouldn't. And if your wheels were made from potmetal, you wouldn't get out of the driveway without them failing--it's that weak.

If you don't like aluminum bottom metal, fine. Stating that opinion should be enough. There should be no need to make shit up and spout things that aren't true.

JonA: I apologize, but there is a difference between pot metal and cast aluminum I think. As a matter of fact, I was getting ready to edit my post and "tone down" my eschewing of the A Bolt, but my Straight Model 70s have metal on the bottom but my SS is aluminum, so if the Browning's is aluminum, again I apologize. Regardless, I've never seen a trigger guard disintegrate the way that A Bolt's did and the issue of the over-complex bolt remains fact. It is really a nightmare to take apart and should you take a fall and get it muddies, it's impossible to clean in the field. Here's the bottom line; the original post was a recommendation and based on my experience with the A Bolt, I can't recommend them. You can so it's up to him to make the decision. Sorry if I came across as a bit caustic. jorge

PS: Doesn't cast aluminum meet the criteria to be called "pot metal"?

Thanks George. Pot metal is quite different from cast aluminum.

Cast aluminum is usually well over 90% aluminum and not only is light but very strong (most alloys and heat treats being stronger than most mild steels). This is used everywhere from the wheels on your car to parts on jet airplanes. Typical uses are where a high strength/low weight combination is required or desired.

Pot metal is usually made from some soup of lead, copper, tin, zinc, bismuth and sometimes a small amount of aluminum. There are no hard fast rules because nobody uses it for anything besides trinkets anymore (no industry standards, no SAE specs, etc). Basically the stuff is quite a bit heavier and very, very, weak.

The point is cast aluminum is quite strong. Many, many, many, many times stronger than any sort of pot metal. If I told you the wheels on your car were pot metal, you'd need to replace them or sell the car because it would be unsafe to drive. If you found out I wasn't telling the truth and they were really made from aluminum so none of that was necessary, you'd probably be quite mad at me. So that's why it makes me mad when I hear that. Especially as an Engineer who deals with the stuff every day.

Now some may still not want aluminum bottom metal. That's fine. I don't have a problem with people not liking it--as long as they don't like it for what it really is, not for what it's not.

I know many Win and Rem owners replace theirs with aftermarket steel bottom metal. It partly depends on how heavy one wants the rifle. It's a compromise for light weight--just like aluminum rings and bases are, etc. There will likely be steel bottom metal replacements for A-Bolts soon. I doubt I'll replace mine as I'd rather have the weight in the scope base, rings and barrel.

I agree on the bolt--it's a pain to take appart. It can be done with some practice and a tool or two, but it would be a PITA to do in the field. Luckily as dirt and grime covered as I've had my rifle, there has never been a need as operation has always been perfect. After 15 years when I took it appart for the first time, the only thing inside was a bit of grease they put on at the factory. But yes, it would be nice if it was easier to take appart.

Jon A;

Good to see ya back lurking on the forums....

enjoyed reading your bit on the potmetal.. You really are a wealth of info......

whether we agree on the old magnum needs in life.. I have to compliment your pic of your A Bolt....

I own three ( 30/06, 338 Mag, 300 Win Mag)
The mags were bought back in the early 1990s when I use to think I needed a magnum in life.. so I bought the 300 and the 338 and figured I was covered for anything that I'd ever hunt....Never got rid of them because they are so darn accurate.. except the 06, which still is minute of deer out to 250 yds or so....

But Back to your A Bolt pictured...

Beautiful Job! I love the scope rail and especially the camo paint job.. was that done outside of home by a professional or done by yourself.. either way, presents a striking and effective looking rifle....

I know from past conversations you know how to put that gal thru her paces...

But some info on the scope base and the paint job would be appreciated.. I can see that scope rail on my 300 WinMag... I am going to use it strictly for target work ( since it is accurate and I have owned her for 15 yrs or so...) I decided to go with a Boyd's Laminate Thumbhole Stock....

Actually based on past purchases and voiced interest, Boyd's actually called me up and offered me the stock at a reduced price when they were going to do a special run of them to just test the waters on the Browning Market... so it was too good to pass up...

my 30/06, I have thougth about putting a heavy sporter weight barrel on it and rebarreling it to a 6mm Rem for long range Prairie Dogs and targets to replace the Remington I did that with 4 yrs ago...

YOUR stock style with the camo would really go together well on that rig...

thanks in advance for the info

cheers
seafire

quote:

Originally posted by seafire/B17G:
Good to see ya back lurking on the forums....

Always happy to be of service.

quote:

Beautiful Job! I love the scope rail and especially the camo paint job.. was that done outside of home by a professional or done by yourself.. either way, presents a striking and effective looking rifle....

Thanks. Just wait until you see it with the new tube that will go on after this season.

quote:

But some info on the scope base and the paint job would be appreciated.. I can see that scope rail on my 300 WinMag...

The rail is a PRI which can be purchased here.

Probably not as nice as a Badger, but they still don't make one. It gets the job done. As you can see, it allows me to put the rings on the scope where they should be, then put the scope on the rifle wherever I want while adding rigidity to the whole system. It's amazing how much you'll move things and play around with them when you can...because you can. I've tried the scope in three different places and had it on and off more times than I can count in the last year...because I could. The rings are Badger, and yes, it does return to zero when you remove and replace it. Great for if you want to have a backup scope all pre-zeroed with you in camp out on the hunt.

The stock is a McMillan Browning Classic . Trust me, you want one of these stocks! While the tupperware stock it came with "got the job done" for many years, this thing is simply a wonderful improvement. The cast off and cant make it go to your shoulder as smooth as butter, less drop at the heal, higher comb and cheekpiece reduce felt recoil dramatically! It wasn't cheap, but I'll never regret getting it.

I pillar bedded it myself.

The finish isn't painted, but is their molded in gelcoat. A "Swirly" pattern. My custom color choice was 50% black, 35% dark gray and 15% white. Of course there are infinite possibilities.

Keep in mind though, this is a "utility grade" finish. Toughest out there, but you will see some molding lines and sometimes a bit of cloth showing through. Not enough to bother anybody who cares more about function than looks though.

If you bed one yourself, pay particular attention to the height/depth/angle of the floorplate mount and trigger guard. These control the relative location of the magazine to the action. Browning has varied these over the years so I wouldn't count on a custom stock being right. McMillan would only guarantee the rifle would feed if I sent in my action (they'd custom fit it for free). But I needed the action at the time and was well aware of the issues.

I still have yet to see any factory A-Bolt with feeding problems first hand, but I know it can happen with mismatched parts (as I found out stuffing a RUM magazine into a rifle made for the Win Mag). So if you do the work yourself, take your time and get it right. Mine will feed the pointiest of bullets to complete flatpoints to empty brass, from excruciating slow to faster than the eye can see at any angle, "slick as snot."

Jon;

Thanks for the details there! My compliments... definitely a rifle that was worth the effort... both visually and functionally.....

I am definitely going to get that base for the three Brownings that I have.. I am looking to have them strictly target rifles... except one which will have the varmint barrel...probably do my usual heavy sporter barrel with a 28 inch length or so...

I will also check out the McMillan's Stocks... I am also more interested in utility... I have considered a laminate grey thumbhole stock and then just spray paint it in spackle/krinkle black finish... I did that to one of the factory Browning Synthetic stocks and it really added some functionality by just allowing a better grip in lousy weather....

Also thought about trying out one of those from Rapid City SD, the name escapes me, since it is late... they do the stocks for the Rem VSSF and Sendaros....

The other thing I have to ask about tho is the Leupold Scope.... that just looks "right".....

What power is it.. looks like a 4.5 x 14 x 50....
What sort of reticle do you have on it...that or the Burris Black Diamond in a 4 x 16 x 50 are the two I was looking at standardizing some of my target and varmint rifles on....

what kind of barrel are you putting on it soon???
and in what chambering??? staying with the 300 Ultra?

thanks for sharing your info......

cheers
seafire

quote:

Originally posted by seafire/B17G:
The other thing I have to ask about tho is the Leupold Scope.... that just looks "right".....What power is it.. looks like a 4.5 x 14 x 50....

Exactly. It's also the 30mm LR version.

quote:

What sort of reticle do you have on it...

The VHR:



With the 200 AB at just under 3200, zeroed at 300 the next line down is on for 400 and the next line down is on for 500....

quote:

what kind of barrel are you putting on it soon??? and in what chambering??? staying with the 300 Ultra?

I'm sure I'll waffle back and forth a few times before I put down the Mastercard, but the plan right now is a #5, 3-Groove, Stainless, Fluted Lilja in a 1:9 twist. Sticking with the 300 RUM. What can I say, I love the caliber!

Thanks again Jon...

I seriously think I will go with an H/S Precision Stock, ( don't know why I couldn't remember their name last night)....

The 300 Ultra is a little too Much for me, I'll stick with the 300 Win....

But you have me sold on that scope...
Couldn't ask for a better example than posting the picture of looking right thru the reticle...

Also thanks for the tip on the bases... I will go that route also...

Looks like you have the project just set up, JUST Right! My compliments...

and thanks much for the tips and sharing ....

cheers
seafire

quote:

Originally posted by seafire/B17G:
Thanks again Jon...

Any time.

quote:

I seriously think I will go with an H/S Precision Stock,

I have some bad news for you. They don't make them for A-Bolts any longer. I called them and talked to one of the head guys and he literally told me they burned the mold!

Those dimensional changes I was talking about above--that's a serious PITA for makers of stocks marketed as "100% Bolt In, No Bedding Required!"

I have a Browning Micro-Medallion in .308Win. that I'm less than thrilled with, but I guess the fault is my own really. It has a short 20" pencil thin barrel. The rifle weighs in at a light 6.0lbs and really has a potent kick to it for a .308Win. I had no idea they had such a fierce kick. The front end looks like I used it for fungo batting practice from jumping out of my front rest cradle so often. This brings up another point. The stock wood seems awfully soft to me. I didn't think a stock wood could get dinged so easily. Anyway, I put a Pachmyer Decelerator pad on it and at the range use a Past Recoil Shield. That pretty much takes the bite out of it. It shoots okay I guess, about .9" (5 at 100yds.) I don't expect wonders from a light, short barreled rifle. The recoil really came as a surprise though. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

quote:

Originally posted by seafire/B17G:
But you have me sold on that scope...
Couldn't ask for a better example than posting the picture of looking right thru the reticle...

Then again, it might not fit your needs all that well. If you don't do a lot of really long range shooting at small targets, there's no need for crosshairs that fine. And since you like to run velocities slower than my above load, the lines being so close together isn't really required. I was thinking lately, the Boone & Crocket might be a better fit for you.

Since I've now had a chance to hunt with the thing, one of the worries I had about it was shown to be true--in thick, dark timber those thin lines aren't that easy to see. Of course I'm spoiled by so many years using the Heavy Duplex which just jumps out at you and don't get me wrong--I don't think anything would get away from me for that reason. But if you do a fair amount of close range hunting in thick brush/timber it certainly isn't the best choice.

The Heavy Duplex was perfect for that, but was marginal in the wide open spaces. This one is wonderful in the wide open spaces but marginal for the thick stuff. Since I do a lot of both, a compromise is in order. The VHR is too biased to the open spaces to be the best compromise. I basically went too far from the Heavy Duplex I think.

The biggest reason I chose it in the first place was I decided clicking was no longer an option as there were no turrets for regular Leupolds that could satisfy me and the lines on this reticle matched my ballistics so perfectly. I figured I could live with any of the other compromises.

And I could, if I had to. But recently I've come to find out I don't have to--Leupold is finally going to offer a Tactical turret that I won't be afraid of putting into a saddle scabbard. So I'll likely be a "clicker" again very soon. Once I am, I won't need the VHR anymore. Since I won't, I'll probably change it out for something thicker that will be a better compromise....

Hopefully that info will help you make the right choice.

I owned one for about a month. It had been given to a PH by Mrs Busch. It was accurate but as a friend described it "It's too damn Puerto Rican".

I have 3 A-Bolts, a .280 Rem, 300 Win Mag, and a 338 Win Mag. The magnums have a 26" barrel which I don't really care for. They don't balance as nicely as the 22". The 280 Rem is a stainless/synthetic. It has a 22" barrel and balances perfectly. The rifle is light and very quick to point. Yet it is still very stable for off hand shooting. It has a tang saftey which in my opinion is the quickest there is. But, in the heat of the moment, make sure you are pressing on the safety and not the cocking indicator, as they both are serrated and feel the same. That is why mine is smoothed off.

The rifle is also inherently accurate. Mine will consistent shoot sub-MOA easily. The 3 lug lock-up I think accounts for alot of this along with the fact that Browning generously floats all of their barrels and beds the recoil lug.

I actually like the factory syn. stock that came with the rifle. It has a unique soft feel to it and doesn't make as much noise in the brush as fiberglass stocks do.

I painted my stainless rifle matte black with Lauers epoxy paint. I can't stand the look of stainless rifles in the woods. Even though they generously bead blast it, it still gives off the distinctive shine of stainless.

I can't not use the gun. Despite owning several custom rifles I always seem to pick the .280 over any of the other rifle. Its easy to carry. To unload you just remove the mag off of the floor plate and stick it in your pocket. No loose shells to worry about fumbling with.

A-Bolts do have their problems though.

#1 is the trigger. I like a crisp 2lb trigger and the factory trigger comes in around 4lbs and isn't adjustable. So the first thing I did was install a Moyers trigger which solved that problem. I coould get it to adjust all the way down to 1 lb, but just to be safe I set it at 2 lbs.

#2 is the trigger guard. The action screw on the back is the only thing attaching it to the rifle. So when the floor plate is closed there is alot of leverage pulling down on the trigger guard. This had a tendency to work the rear action screw lose. The fix to this was to drill a small hole in the front of the trigger guard and install a wood screw into the stock. It fixed the problem.

Some of you may find this of interest.

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411043/m/504102063

Hello the campfire:
The only problem I have with A-Bolts is the triger. It is a bear to adust and I think it was designed to have six inches of creap in it.
Otherwise the rifle is OK for what it is. I think the savage at 300 is a better buy, but browning is a good old line name. I havn't had a problem rom Browning except A-olt triggers.
Judge Sharpe

Sorry to hear about your problems, Judge. If I may make a gentle suggestion, it would be to employ a qualified gunsmith for further adjustments on your rifles.

For those who don't like the triggers, as mentioned above, it isn't the end of the world. Moyers's makes a replacement. And it is steel.

quote:

Originally posted by James_B:
#2 is the trigger guard. The action screw on the back is the only thing attaching it to the rifle. So when the floor plate is closed there is alot of leverage pulling down on the trigger guard. This had a tendency to work the rear action screw lose. The fix to this was to drill a small hole in the front of the trigger guard and install a wood screw into the stock. It fixed the problem.

That's a good point. While I did have problems keeping the front action screw tight in the original plastic stock (after rechambering to RUM) I haven't seen this to be a problem on any of the A-Bolts I've been around. But I can see the potential exists. I'm glad your fix worked. However, with a good bedding job the problem should be eliminated:



After a job like that, torque that rear screw and you'll need a 4' prybar to move the triggerguard and the screw will never come loose again.

So Seafire, how's the progress on your A-Bolts comming? I think mine's finally done:

A-Bolt? Mine kills just fine. The mag assy is awkward but I've never had a rattle. I don't like the trigger or the bolt assy, but the locking mechanism on the bolt is strong. I like the positioning of the tang safety but wish it had a position where I could unload on safe.

I have no problem with Jap steel. Some years back a major railway installed Japanese steel rails and they outlived domestic steel by a factor of around 5-1. That doesn't mean Jap steel is necessarily good or bad, but same goes for domestic.

I'm wondering about the "Made in China" guns that are hitting the market. Any comments on China guns (no, the muzzles aren't slanted differently)?

This is a decent thread. I've had a couple A-bolts, one a stainless stalker in 338 Win Mag that easily shot 3/4" goups...very accurate rifle. Another Hunter in 243 that shot great with no problems. For some reason I only used them a few times and they never grew on me, but I suspect that was more due to caliber than the rifle itself.

A couple years ago though, I needed a lightweight smallish LEFTY for my wife, well low and behold Browning came out with their Micro Hunter in left hand... Ordered one in 7mm-08 the day I found out about the offering. Well that rifle fits her PERFECTLY, is lightweight, doesn't recoil much, an shoots damnded well. The detachable mag is also a very great feature for my wife, makes things easy for her.

I do agree that the A-Bolt is not the epitome of the rifle's art, but they do work and work well IMO.

quote:

Originally posted by stubblejumper:
I too hate the magazine system.It is slower and more complicated than most other detachable magazine systems.I also have no use for a tang safety.Last of all,I find that the a-bolts seem to produce more felt recoil than other rifles chambered for the same cartridges.

Tang safety yea but the Savage doesn't have any thing better in the safety dept.

Personally, I don't care for A-Bolts, though I did look at them from time to time. I look for two things in a rifle (1) accuracy, and (2) reliability.

There's no question that the A-Bolt is accurate right out of the box. That's a "yes."

Check with guides in Africa and Alaska and ask what rifle most often fails, and I'll bet a nickel they'll mostly cite the A-Bolt. That's a big "no," and one out of two isn't good enough.

Whenever I read one of these A-Bolt threads, many folks point out their targets. Folks, "accuracy" isn't the issue, it's reliability for those who don't care for them.

Will they all fail? No. Do enough of them fail to make us rather spend the money elsewhere? Yes. Would I take a free gift of an A-Bolt hunting? Not on your life - I get hunting too infrequently as it is to want to risk the loss of even a single day.

Jaywalker

quote:

So Seafire, how's the progress on your A-Bolts comming? I think mine's finally done:

Jon A:

Actually, good to hear from you. I ended up picking up a Boyd's Thumbhole for my Browing in 300 Mag...and a JRS Stock for my 30/06...Both in a Gray Laminate...

The JRS is completed but the Thumbhole still needs to be worked on to be finished.

I have also gotten two scopes and am not sure which one will be tried on the 300...ONE is the Nikon 4.5 x 14 Buckmaster, with the mil dot reticle... the other is a Bushnell 3200 Series in 5 x 15 with a Firefly reticle... I am going to play with those to see how it goes....

I may end up instead tho, taking a Nikon 6.5. x 20 or a Leupold 6.5 x 20 off of one of my 223s and transfer one of the smaller scopes listed above to take its place....

I horsetraded for a 8 x 32 Burris, but just wasn't that pleased with it...

I have had too many other projects going to give it the attention I wanted too last fall...

Got side tracked into a 6mm Rem Benchrest rifle with a 31 inch PacNor Fast twist barrel on it...

I need to get off of my fanny and finish the 300 Winchester up tho...I did lay in a stock of 500 190 grain Matchkings to play with it some...

I did get a digital camera tho, so will have to post a picture of it when it is done...

Hope all is well with up your way in Everett...

cheers
seafire

quote:

Originally posted by JudgeSharpe:
Hello the campfire:
The only problem I have with A-Bolts is the triger. It is a bear to adust and I think it was designed to have six inches of creap in it.
Judge Sharpe

Judge........

That's what I thought, too. My Mrs. shoots an A-Bolt Hunter in .308. It's horribly accurate with even standard factory loads. But the trigger is not the best. She doesn't shoot it much and neither do I so I've never pursued a better trigger.

But, yesterday I went to my smith's to pick up my latest pet project.......a Stainless Stalker rechambered to .375 Wby. During the process I told the smith I'd like to have a 40 oz. trigger.......expecting him to install an aftermarket deal. Nope. He explained to me about drilling somewhere in there and installing a set screw. Anyhoo......I've got a 40 oz. trigger with ZERO creep. Best trigger on any gun I own and it's the original "Jap crap" that it was born with. VERY IMPRESSED!!!!

my first shots was with a A-bolt in 375 with the vented ports in the barrel. it had little recoil with 300 grain max charges, sounded like a cannon, i saw the hair on the guy next to mes head raised up in the air due to the blast. it was a fine riflle. but its magazine is a luittle finicky. a friend of me has a i 6,5x55 and he has used on countless mosse ,roedeer,beaver,stags in scotland, fallow deer, wild boar and very much else, and he is just 22 years old.

quote:

Originally posted by allen day:
The A-Bolt was designed for the guy who wants something fairly light and inexpensive that's accurate right out of the box, who doesn't know how to evaluate a rifle any other way, and doesn't care to -- nor does he care if the barrel inscription reads "MADE IN JAPAN".
It's not everyone's cup of tea........
AD

Hey Allen,

It's not my habit to shit on a quote, but I have to on this one. I can't really even begin to say how ass backwards the first line above is. That guy you describe must be a real idiot, how else to explain wanting a rifle that is "fairly light and inexpensive that's accurate right out of the box" ??? What should we look for instead?

You're probably right in the rest of your post. No one is going to see an A-Bolt 40 years from now and drool on the gun counter. But that's not why I love my A-Bolt. It fits me, shoots accurate as hell with a variety of factory and handloaded ammo, and shoots the same with or without brake BOSS.

Cheers man. Sorry to be a jackass, but I found the quoted statement almost surreal in its back asswardness.

Ditto Gonzo.

And, not preferring a tang safety is a mystery to me if the hunter has done much upland hunting. My wife has told me many times that I lack "culture". I guess this is what she means.

quote:

Originally posted by Bullie:
Ditto Gonzo.

And, not preferring a tang safety is a mystery to me if the hunter has done much upland hunting. My wife has told me many times that I lack "culture". I guess this is what she means.

Yep. What both of you guys said..........yep. I MUCH prefer the tang safety of the A-Bolt to the safeties on my 70's, 77 MKII and 700.

quote:

Yep. What both of you guys said..........yep. I MUCH prefer the tang safety of the A-Bolt to the safeties on my 70's, 77 MKII and 700.

I personally have no use at all for a tang safety.

Why? Too instinctive? Too easy? Too fast?

From a PH exam in Africa:

quote:

on average it took Winchester owners a second longer to disengage the safety and fire the first shot compared to Mausers or Browning A Bolts.

quote:

Top - a pre ‘64 Winchester M70.
Bottom - Ruger M77 - fitted with the best option in safety catches - a shotgun-type tang safety.

I like tang safeties....

I just bought a Browning A-Bolt "Hunter" in .308. I have a Leupold 3-9 power scope mounted on it in Leupold Rings. Took it up to the shooting range the other day and sighted it in. This Browning is very accurate and I am pleased with it.

I look at a rifle as a tool. To be effective that tool must be reliable. Since I cannot afford to buy solely for beauty, I listen to what posters who have vastly more experience than I will ever aquire, say. Posters like kutenay, AD, JJHack and Ray Atkinson have all given good guidance. JJ Hack once said he had seen more Brownings (not the mauser based ones) frozen up with mud and rust than all others combined. While the A bolt may be useful in certain circumstances, for hard hunting that advice was enough to influence me.

I realy like the bolt system on the browning maybe I spent to much time as an r&d engineeer guy but it is not hard to strip in the field or put back together if you have the tools and know how. It is very comlex but seems to work perfectly well it will stick if abused but the safety accuracy short bolt throw make up for any percived over engineering it has a lot of parts but the fewest mooving parts is the club. keep it clean dry and oil it on a regular mantainance schedule and it works just fine may be to complicated for some but the one I maintain works 100% not my favorite rifle by any means but servicable just the same.