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I was trying to replenish the handloads for the 270 I have shot. I have changed nothing to the proces. The die is crushing or compressing the jacket and lead just behind the polymer tip. I made 70 rounds without issue. The die did not come off the press. Everything is the same from the prior loading. Anybody, know what is happing, or how to stop it. The compression leaves a ringed diameter. It is visible to the eye and touch that at this ring the lead and jacket are being compressed. It is like a ridge is being made. | ||
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One of Us |
That is often an issue with the very streamlined nose on some bullets. I have had to ease the inside edge of the seating stem to prevent this on some bullets. Was it a different "lot" of the same bullet as that may account for the ringed nose. | |||
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Reset die and or the sitting stem. Some times they move after repeated reloading. | |||
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Are you using the same lot of cases? Try chamfering the mouth of the case before attempting to seat the bullet. I find that it takes a lot of strain off the bullet seating process. It works particularly well with flat base bullets. | |||
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Could be your expander ball is slightly undersize and the increased neck tension is causing extra force on the bullet tip. Also polishing or slightly altering the seater stem will usually cure this. Have gun- Will travel The value of a trophy is computed directly in terms of personal investment in its acquisition. Robert Ruark | |||
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Try annealing your cases, they're probably work hardened and are resisting the expansion as the bullet is being seated. Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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It is the last 20 in a box of 100 bullets. The bullets are Accubonds. There is not an over amount of resistance when running the cartridge into and out of the die. I am going to back off the steam a bit, and hope it stops. I checked and the locking ring is locked tight. Brass mouths are chamfered, but the bullets are boatailed. Cases are the same Nosler, but not same lot. I will keep posted. Thank you gentlemen. | |||
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How sharp is the ridge? If the seating stem does not fit the bullet well, then all the seating force may be concentrated in a small ring. You could try honing or polishing the stem out so it fits the bullet better. Some die brands offer different stems that are shaped differently for different bullets for this reason. Another option, as Fjold mentioned, is to anneal the brass. Every time you fire and reload a case the neck gets a little bit harder. Annealing the brass makes it softer and the force needed to seat a bullet goes down. | |||
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I just got in. I should have mentioned the brass is new brass. I am going to try fiddling with the stem. It did not do this for the first 70 rounds. Should I back the stem up/raise it, or should I lower it down? | |||
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Any chance you are dealing with a compressed load? Could the die body be contacting the brass and trying to crimp because it is adjusted too far down or the brass is not trimmed to length? Try backing off the die and setting the seater down by the same amount to maintain OAL and see if that helps. Have gun- Will travel The value of a trophy is computed directly in terms of personal investment in its acquisition. Robert Ruark | |||
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Loads are not compressed. I check with the sake. You can hear the powder moving up to the base of bullet. I took a pic, not best quality, but if someone wants pm me contact info I will send it to you. Just took the die apart, whipped it down, felt nothing rough. I am not a polisher. Got it readjusted for my length. It is still going on. Any possibility the copper jacket and lead is a little soft on these bullets. I have got 25 made with this issue and five left in box. First, 70 was perfect. | |||
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It is extremely likely that the seating stem needs removed, chucked in a drill and shaped and smoothed out with some sand paper and 0000 steel wool. | |||
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This happens to me when loading AMAX bullets in my .220 Swift; puts a small ring in the bullet under the polymer tip. As was explained to me by Redding or Hornady (can't remember which) it is due to the shape of the stem and the fact there is nothing behind the polymer tip at that point. It doesn't seem to affect accuracy; last time I fired that rifle it put 3 shots into about 3 inches at 500 yards. | |||
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Pic of the bullets Mike Legistine actu? Quid scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue. What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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pull the seating stem, I bet you find the problem pretty quick. | |||
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Thank you Mr. Dettorre. I am the junior man, and asked for help. I accept the issue is with the stem. The mental problem I have is I made 70 picture perfect cartridges befor this issue came up. Should not the first 70 have had this issue? | |||
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I pulled the stem a second time. I do not see anything or feel anything odd, but I have only pulled one stem before, being this one. I did place a bullet in the stem, and held it with just enough finger pressure to keep it from falling out. I removed and there is a very slight ring, no compression. I appreciate everyone. I guess it is more cosmetic than anything. I am just particular. | |||
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Chamfer inside the neck -- new brass can be sharp both inside and out. (Do a short resize of only the neck area if that didn't help.) _______________________ | |||
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RCBS dies? I usually polish and shape my seating stems with sand paper and 0000 steel wool, after chucking them in a drill. Between that and a possible expander ball undersize problem. Have had similar trouble years ago. I had to replace the sizing die and still had marks after seating a bullet. The shape and polish fixed it up ,in my case. | |||
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I should add....... My sizing / expander ball was 6 thousandths too small on my RCBS die. | |||
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I assume you did not size and inside neck expand your new brass first; I don't. Well, that new brass is likely smaller in the neck than a reloaded one that has gone through the process of inside neck expanding. Thereby producing excessive pressure needed for seating. And Hornady seater plugs are not usually tapered very much. So you can use a countersink and put some more taper in it. Try resizing some and see they are still marked like that. And Lower the stem and raise your die a bit. | |||
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Can understand your frustration, many not reading your post properly and noting that your first 70 loads were perfect. BUT, something has changed to cause the problem. The clue I see is that while the cases are the same brand and new they are not the same lot, so has the issue arisen just when you changed lots? If so then resize your cases, I always do for new brass, never load new as purchased. | |||
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that's more than cosmetic, it will affect the flight of the bullet. and,, if you shoot an animal with it, it will also affect how the bullet performs. there is a little hollow spot right about there that the nose pushes back against to initiate expansion. you can also be loosening the crimp that holds the tip in. | |||
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There is 2 calibres I use graphite lube on the inside of the necks before sizing, 270Win and 416 Rigby. Long necks that offer a lot of resistance to both expanding and bullet seating. | |||
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If you inside neck expand them, using graphite or mica like Balule said, your problem will disappear. Chamfer your seater plug too. I will do it on a lathe if you want. And I seriously doubt if there would be any effect on either trajectory or expansion. I have fired lots of bullets with marks from being collet pulled; still shot fine. | |||
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From the picture it is obvious that your seater does not match your ogive. If you have an electric drill, take the seater out, wrap the threads with a little tape, and chuck it lightly in the drill. You don't want to crank down the chuck too tight or you can bugger up the threads. Now take a piece of fine sandpaper and wrap it around a pencil and as you turn the drill on, hold the sandpaper around the pencil and polish the seater stem inside where it contacts the ogive. After you have reshaped the seater stem polish it a little the same way with 600 grit or steel wool or a Cratex stick. If you have your die set correctly and your cases prepped (I never load new cases without at least running the expander ball through them and trimming/chamfering) your problem should disappear. I don't know why the first 70 didn't have a problem either. Have gun- Will travel The value of a trophy is computed directly in terms of personal investment in its acquisition. Robert Ruark | |||
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Thank you all for the responses and Mr Dettore. I will follow instruction, but everyone has there failings and mine is not being mechanically minded. I worked as a light skinned immigrant on my Father in Laws road jobs, quarries, and strip mines before and after he became my father in law. Basic lift this, hammer that, you fit in here. One site had a junk 777. The chief mechanic had quit the day before, but did not tell anyone. The engine was suppose to come out of it. The boys are gathered around, “What is going on?” The boys in unison smile and vote me to take out the engine. Ok, a boom, torch, and undoing everything I could see from front to end the engine came out. I feel sorry for whoever had to put it back in. A funny story on why I am hesitant to go after it with a drill, and polishing tools. But, I will follow instructions. I will be out of town this weekend, but will report. | |||
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Please do. I am interested in knowing the inside diameter of the new cases at the neck. There is lots of leverage going on there in the press at the handle to seat bullets which could explain why some extra resistance (enough to compress a copper jacket) may not be readily apparent. Interesting post. Thanks. CB Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | |||
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Issue resolved. All brass has been primed so this may be a little tricky, but I sprayed some lube on a case lightly wiped it. I then ran it through the resizing die slowly just enough for the expander ball to nudge the neck. I did not think I could run it all the way through with a live primer. I then added 57 grains of H4831SC and settled a bullet. The loaded cartridge is now picture perfect. Not knowing I just got lucky loading the first 70 with the new Nosler brass and not resizing. Thank you everyone. Curiosity got the better of me before leaving today. I had to try. If I am measuring right (see above post about 777 rock truck) the inside diameter of the brass at the top of the neck before resizing is .270 inches. | |||
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Good man! _______________________ | |||
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Alright then. Did you happen to measure "after" diameter inside there? Just curious. By the way. My (.270) 130 grain BT Nosler's like 56 grains of the H4831.
Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | |||
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A new expander ball that's about a thousands larger will fix your problem I suspect.Thats a cheap investment.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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