Another 280 Ross Commercial Model 1910 converted to 300 H&H

Hello all,

Here's another dandy that I recently acquired. A Commercial 280 Ross that was that was converted to 300 H&H caliber.

For the most part this is a standard model 1910 Commercial, but it has been re-barrelled with a 24-1/2" Douglas Air-Gauge Match barrel in 300 H&H caliber. The action has been drilled and tapped for Weaver bases and it sports a German 2.5x Karl Kaps Asslar/Wetzlar scope. Rifle weighs 8-3/4 pounds with the scope, and has a 14" LOP over a Pachmayer White-Line recoil pad.

The last picture shows the 280 Ross cartridge compared to the 300 H&H cartridge.

I will be reporting range results soon.

Here's a few pictures.

As always, comments are welcome.

I wonder if the barrel was set back to avoid the inevitable blow out of the H&H brass ahead of the belt as happens when you use H&H brass to make Ross brass in an unaltered chamber.
Looking forward to seeing the fired brass.

An interesting rifle, buckstix. Does locking/unlocking the bolt add much to the length of the bolt throw (ie, do you have to raise your head when cycling it)?

I like the scope, too, and notice it has the same fast thread on the focus I've seen on old Nickels.

quote:

Originally posted by Huvius:
I wonder if the barrel was set back to avoid the inevitable blow out of the H&H brass ahead of the belt as happens when you use H&H brass to make Ross brass in an unaltered chamber.
Looking forward to seeing the fired brass.

Hello Huvius,
Thanks for the reply.

The reason that happens with a 280 caliber chamber, using altered 300 H&H brass with the belt removed, is that the head of the altered brass is undersized and unsupported. There shouldn't be any problem with this being a 300 H&H caliber with a proper corresponding chamber.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
An interesting rifle, buckstix. Does locking/unlocking the bolt add much to the length of the bolt throw (ie, do you have to raise your head when cycling it)?

I like the scope, too, and notice it has the same fast thread on the focus I've seen on old Nickels.

Hello sambarman338,
Thanks for the reply.

The bolt throw is 5-3/4" and acomodates working the bolt without lifting your face from the stock. A very fast rifle for follow-up shots.

quote:

The reason that happens with a 280 caliber chamber, using altered 300 H&H brass with the belt removed, is that the head of the altered brass is undersized and unsupported. There shouldn't be any problem with this being a 300 H&H caliber with a proper corresponding chamber.

I'm not referring to using H&H brass with the belt turned off but using belted brass in the Ross chamber as many Ross owners do.
The belt on the H&H is close to the base dia of the Ross so when 280 brass is made up from belted H&H brass, it blows out just ahead of the belt.

Here's a link to a thread on NE that shows just what I'm saying - pictures down the thread.

http://forums.nitroexpress.com...age=0&fpart=all&vc=1

quote:

Originally posted by Huvius:

quote:

The reason that happens with a 280 caliber chamber, using altered 300 H&H brass with the belt removed, is that the head of the altered brass is undersized and unsupported. There shouldn't be any problem with this being a 300 H&H caliber with a proper corresponding chamber.

I'm not referring to using H&H brass with the belt turned off but using belted brass in the Ross chamber as many Ross owners do.
The belt on the H&H is close to the base dia of the Ross so when 280 brass is made up from belted H&H brass, it blows out just ahead of the belt.

Here's a link to a thread on NE that shows just what I'm saying - pictures down the thread.

http://forums.nitroexpress.com...age=0&fpart=all&vc=1

"but it has been re-barrelled with a 24-1/2" Douglas Air-Gauge Match barrel in 300 H&H caliber"

I don't think this one will have that problem as it was rebarrelled as mentioned in OP.

Thank YOU!!
Missed that little detail...

Whoever came up with that combination of scope and mount seems to have neglected an important advantage of the straight pull action, i.e.. not having to use an altered bolt handle to obtain the lowest possible scope mounting. I think I would swap those rings for something much lower, given the height, or lack thereof, of the comb. Or you might consider a lace on cheekpiece to raise the comb to the height of the scope.

I have a Ross Model 1910 which I have never fired for lack of useable sighting equipment. I would appreciate details on how the rear base is attached to the action.

quote:

Originally posted by xausa:
Whoever came up with that combination of scope and mount seems to have neglected an important advantage of the straight pull action, i.e.. not having to use an altered bolt handle to obtain the lowest possible scope mounting. I think I would swap those rings for something much lower, given the height, or lack thereof, of the comb. Or you might consider a lace on cheekpiece to raise the comb to the height of the scope.

I have a Ross Model 1910 which I have never fired for lack of useable sighting equipment. I would appreciate details on how the rear base is attached to the action.

Hello xausa,
Thanks for the reply.

You beat me to it. I had already replaced the rings with "low" rings for the reason you mention. I just hadn't gotten around to posting the pictures.

Here is a photo of how the receiver was drilled and tapped. Weaver bases were used.

Big improvement, Ron, although I would probably want to replace the scope with a 4X as well.

I really like the 1910 action, but not my preference for a safety. Wondering if there is a replacement safety / shroud / trigger?

quote:

Originally posted by xausa:
Big improvement, Ron, although I would probably want to replace the scope with a 4X as well.

Hello xausa,
Thanks for the reply.

I thought about a different scope, but I like the fact that this is a German "period" scope that likely has been with the rifle for quite some time.

quote:

Originally posted by mdstewart:
I really like the 1910 action, but not my preference for a safety. Wondering if there is a replacement safety / shroud / trigger?

Hello mdstewart,
Thanks foe the reply.

I've never heard of a replacement safety for a Ross. But if you ever find one, let me know.

it's a very cool rifle .. and taking it to 300hh seems a grand idea --

i frequently kick myself for not buying several of these and krag sporters back in the day, as well as not buying up every swede and destroyer carbine i could lay my hands on.

when I was looking at these, .. let's say late 80s, due to odd brass, they where CHEAP .. but i didn't have a lathe then, and just out of college, and rebarreling cost 4-5x the price of the rifle, and i had AND still have, a super sweet 257 bob on a FLAIG custom springfield, it didn't just cost all that much, but i wish i had

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:i frequently kick myself for not buying several of these and krag sporters back in the day, as well as not buying up every swede and destoryer carbine i could lay my hands on.

Hello jeffeosso,
Thanks for the reply.

Yes, tell me about it. I regret not buying Brevex actions from Tradewinds for $118.50, and not buying Gyro-Jet pistols for $99 from J&G, and not buying Luger pistols from Montgomery Wards for $39, and not buying 03-A3's from Coast-to-Coast Hardware for $19. I missed all of that when I was young.

Speaking of which, I recall my Dad telling me; "Get a lot, while you are young." ... I didn't know he was talking about real-estate... ?