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New rifle to me. Working up a recipe for a load I noticed my groups starting to wander...cool barrel, etc. Then I noticed the forend was loose. Didn't find it till I got home. Should I loctite that screw? Thanks, smoker1


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Posts: 868 | Location: NYS | Registered: 25 July 2005Reply With Quote
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You shouldn't need to lock tite that front screw , just put about 50 In.Lbs. on it and it will stay . You're going to want to take the forend off to clean it properly . Medium fast powders work best in the Rem. autos ( IMR-4064 and 4895 ) work best .


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Posts: 104 | Location: Bristol , VT | Registered: 12 October 2011Reply With Quote
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INCH pounds!


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
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Posts: 40234 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks folks. Will do. My final load is 55.0 of RL19...best groups with that recipe. smoker1


The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it.
--Thomas Jefferson

 
Posts: 868 | Location: NYS | Registered: 25 July 2005Reply With Quote
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Got out yesterday and began my test with that forearm screw.....tight. Made a minor adjustment for elevation and windage and nothing happened......nothing moved. Now I ain't smart enough to figure it could be something other than the scope so I cranked some more gave a love tap or two.....same place only now my neat 1.5"group just opened up to 6". You guessed it the (*&%^^(^% loosend up AGAIN!!! Out comes the loctite. Slammed the action home a few times and yep got another quarter turn. Stay tuned to as the stomach turns. smoker1


The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it.
--Thomas Jefferson

 
Posts: 868 | Location: NYS | Registered: 25 July 2005Reply With Quote
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How long did you let the loctite cure? I usually let it sit overnight before I put any stress on the screw. And if being able to remove the screw in the future is a concern, use blue loctite. It's relatively easy to remove but should still keep the screw from backing out.
 
Posts: 641 | Location: SW Pennsylvania, USA | Registered: 10 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Used Blue Loctite and let it sit for a couple of days. Shot this AM and went into a 1' group and stayed there for three rounds. forend still nice and tight. Happy it worked out as I really like this rifle and caliber. Thanks for your input Kjjm4. smoker1


The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it.
--Thomas Jefferson

 
Posts: 868 | Location: NYS | Registered: 25 July 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Used Blue Loctite

Yup!

tu2


Cheers,

Number 10
 
Posts: 3433 | Location: Frankfurt, Germany | Registered: 23 December 2004Reply With Quote
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I don't know about using loctite on that screw as often as I remove it on my rifle, and I'm equally not sure about 50in/lb.

I have a crude but repeatable method of torquing it....

I use a pair of pliers/vice-grips/leatherman tool
holding a 1983 or later plated penny.

If the penny doesn't bend it's not tight enough
After the penny is bent I drop it where I stand

The penny is thus being used as a single use torque indicator.

My Remington semi-auto comfortably stays within 1.5-2" groups with it's favorite loads at 100yards

Favorite load? 49.0grains of IMR4064 behind a 165grain Nosler Accubond (or ballistic tip)


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Posts: 4601 | Location: Pennsylvania | Registered: 21 March 2005Reply With Quote
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