I took the gun out that I had talked about in the earlier posts and it shoots like sh--. I fired multiple rounds of 140/139 an could not get it to hold a group. The old model 11 in 7mm-08 shot all three loads to an under an inch group.
I found the front screw would not stay tight and kept coming loose after a shot or two.

I took it back this weekend and got no better results. I had talked with Savage during the week and they said send it back in and I told them I had owned the pos for less than a week and it was hunting season in Texas. They were going to send a new scope and new screws to see it that is the problem.

I used some locktight on the screws and tried it again and no better results. Shots 3-5 inches apart on the paper. Hard to say it was a pattern though it held paper is the best comment. Tried the old gun and 3 shots under an inch 1.5-2 inches high.

What is your opinion of the problem? Cheap scope. bedding problem? Old fart doing the shooting? Any suyggestions? Hate buying a gun and having to send it back to the shop before using it. I was going to try the new scope when it gets in but other ideas?

Thanks,

Jim

If your rings and bases are not tight the scope is going to shift. Either wait for the new scope and rings or buy a quality set. The stuff that comes in a combo is usually crap anyways and is the first thing that I replace if I buy a combo rifle.

I'd use the old rifle for this years hunting. Set the new gun aside until after the season.

If you can shoot the old gun consistently into an inch, then it's not you.

quote:

I took it back this weekend and got no better results. I had talked with Savage during the week and they said send it back in and I told them I had owned the pos for less than a week and it was hunting season in Texas. They were going to send a new scope and new screws to see it that is the problem

I own 7 or 8 savages they are some of the most accurate rifles I own.

But they are made on an assembly line by humans.

Seems you have one with problems send it back I well bet you they well make it right.

I have shot the old 7mm-08 gun as a single shot since it is left hand and not a right hand version. I have a 270 and 7 mag Remington rifles that I built in the early 80's on Chet Brown fiberglass stocks. They are a little heavy but have always worked. Leopold has replaced both Vari X2 2.5 to 8 scopes the guns are really no fun because they have always worked.

The scope and the aluminum rings on the Savage do look a little cr..ish but never had a gun to shoot this badly that you could not pick up a trend.

if they want it back send it in.
it sounds like you have a bedding problem.

savage is owned by Remington now, this sounds just like what happened when they bought marlin.

hunt the old gun, send the new one back to savage

I used to keep well stocked in reloading components and trade goods by "fix'n" guns that wouldn't shoot, BUT you have to be systematic about it...jumping around and waving a screwdriver without really looking hard just doesn't work...a rifle is a "system" with several combined components, all of which, individually or in concert, can make for a bad hunting day.

First start with ammo you KNOW is accurate...CLEAN THE BARREL with Sharpshooter products...check the barrel gap with a playing card...check that the front base screws DON'T SCREW IN AND HIT THE BARREL THREADS...you can't tighten any screw that way...try another scope..and do one thing at a time THEN fire a couple shots.

You should do this with ANY new rifle...I've been shooting Savage rifles since the early 60's and have several Md 11's and 111's most with several switch barrels, they are the most accurate out of the box rifles I've ever had BUT...as with ANYTHING mechanical and built by humans you can get a pile of rat schat.

Most of the above can be done in under an hour, INCLUDING fixing a problem, most of the time, but sounds like you don't have any faith or trust in the rifle now, so I would just send it back...even if they "fix" it you should STILL do the "system service" just to make sure.

Luck

You are right. This gun shoots so differently and randomly it is the first time I do not know where to start.

got the new bedding screws in and new scope.

Changed the scope and checked all the screws.

Used the new screws with locktight to reseat the gun to the stock. These screws did have a better feel to the seat.

When I went to take the gun apart the screws were both slightly loose after shooing 8-10 rounds. Used the locktight and did tighten down on the screws pretty good but unusual to feel them get that loose after so few shoots but I did not do anything but wipe the oil off the screws but...

Is it that common to see the plastic stock have that much play in the forearm? Not touching barrel to stock but the forearm seems very flimsy. Wonder if it is the stock and if a wooden one would be better if the plastic are that flimsy?

Not been a wood fan in 30 years but might be better than plastic if you seal the wood on the inside.

Be next week before I can find time to go shoot.

YEAH...Savage plastic stocks are NOT stiff at all. You want a floppy, flimsy, pos STOCK...grab an Savage AXIS.(Please no dustup...my opinion, yours may vary, ONLY the stock was lousy) I bought a SS in 25-05...Dam what a piece of garbage. I took it apart and tossed it in my junk drawer and used the barrel on another LA receiver. It shot good but was only 24", I lost a good 75 fs in velo. BUT...after Boyd's came out with a very neat stock for the Axis I revived the pieces and parts...chambered a 26" barrel in 375 JDJ or 9.53 x 57mm, depending on which case I use, installed a brake and now have a very nice looking, laminated stocked, Kill-um-all, next to my other big bore kill-um-three-times-over cannons. It shoots 4 rounds in a hole a quarter will easily cover with 235 gr SSP(quarter's dia = 0.950"), at ~2700fs (with more avaiable. but, hey...why push it.), basically a bugholer.

EVERYTHING you need to know/learn about this sport can be found somewhere on this forum shared by those far more expert than me.


There are several things you can do to stiffen them like milling out the channel separations, laying a 3/8" piece of all thread down the channel embedded in steel epoxy and installing pillars at the front and rear stock screws/recoil lug, I have done a couple that way and have one done like that's still in my rack that I did many years ago that hasn't moved since and still shoots 1/2" groups with three different bullet weights/powders...BUT...for all that work and time I can buy a walnut finished Boyd's stock and only have to install the pillars or a bedding block and have a very nice wood stock, and maybe a bit of pretty up with the finish. Leave a playing cards thickness of room around the barrel, bed tang area, the front barrel/receiver area, recoil lug and the pillars and leave about the same amount or room around the receiver and you won't need to worry about stock wiggle from drying or moisture. The same goes for Richards stocks although the take more work.

It also takes time to break in a barrel but you can do that with a tight fitting patch, one size larger nylon brush wrapped around a patch, smeared with Flitz polish, while watching TV. A couple hundred strokes, 50 at a time then a new Flitz patch. You can feel bark being knocked off and the barrel smoothing up...or use a home grown or store bought fire-polish system. Do a search...this practice has been thoroughly thrashed on AR...and MUCH simpler and cost effective over the wasting components shooting/cleaning/etc..DON'T WANT TO START A HOOHAW...been doing this for a very long time, it works for me...pretty much ALL my rifles, EXCEPT those with high dollar fancy barrels, get this treatment and I can't see any problems with it...IT WORKS FOR ME.

Be sure the crown is square and true and not nicked or oblong, or the barrel threads are turned slightly off center...sometime a barre is just a jack handle and needs replacing. I have one 308 barrel that is that way...it points left when I have it set to zero head space and I had to offset the scope mounts to compensate...you can see it just by looking down the barrel...BUT after "fixing" the problem as a "schooling" project, that barrel is a bugholer with 125-130 gr varminting weight bullets so I just leave it at that and have reference marks on the barrel, receiver and barrel nut so it's relatively easy to set it up whenever I have a wild hair to plonk sageratz and waste a ton of powder doing it and get smacked around a little more than needed.

I have rifles in all the different brands, but many more Savages than all the others combined...I set the barrels up with or without the barrel nut, but it's MUCH easier to headspace to a sized case from the sizing die I'm going to use by going the nut route so it will fit the chamber more closely, thus giving the case a much longer life.

As I said this is a mechanical system made by humans and very inexpensive compared to a well made custom rifle, so the owner must to the custom fitting. I buy the cheapest, no sights, no bells or whistles Mod 11/111 in either LA/SA/Mag configurations, then set it up the way I want and in the caliber I want and save a ton of money. Been doing that since the very early 60's. I have a herd of wildcats running all over the place and most of the standards(at one time or other). A few that have been with me since those early years and some only a few months old...they ALWAYS surprise me with their accuracy from 17 to 50 cal.

LUCK

Talked with Savage and think I will bite the bullet and just send the gun back. May be the screws and new scope would fix the problem but...Time to cut and run to same time on a problem that is 50/50 the scope and beading screws will fix the problem.

NONAGONAGIN,

Like your information. got any more suggestions?

I like what you say. Except the trigger being better I really like your information here.

With the Axas at about 200$ with the rebates it is probably what I should have done and bought a better stock and be out 300 for a quality rifle vs 550 for ??? sh-- as it stands now.

ANY MORE SUGGESTIONS?

My first two rebuilds were on Chet Browns fiberglass stocks a lot of years ago.

My 280 was the only gun that I had that did not like a floated barrel. Put it back in the Remington wood stock after sealing the wood and adding about 4 shims worth of fore end pressure and it was the best gun I had and gave it to my who shot it till he died and now my oldest son shoots it. Still dead on since 1983.

Not been hunting much the last years with kids but want to get back into shooting and reloading again.

If two different bedding screws with locktight shoot loose, my guess is the tapped hole is screwed up.

Dave

When did Remington acquire Savage?

Called Savage today and was told the rifle was checked and needed a new barrel but lady did not know what was wrong.

We will see.

I also got the Scope back from Nikon stating that it was working fine.

How many of you changed out the inexpensive rings that comes with this rifle for a set of steel rings?

I would never again use alluminium rings on a center fire rifle after one experience 25 years ago with my Tikka 222 Rem.

Once I changed to steel rings, the rifle became a tack driver with 5 shot groups of 1.5 inches at 200 meters with the same ammo and scope.

I got the rifle back after several months and shot about 6 rounds thru it and not excited. I will hand load some loads and try it this weekend.

Savage put a new barrel on the 7mm-08 and now I am wondering on head space. Cycled some Hornaday 139 Deer hunter shells thru the gun and some seemed to fit tight in the chamber. I can see some reloads doing this but not store ammo.

my grandson has this same rifle, shot real well from day 1 I shot some of my hand loads in his that I had loaded for myself, shot almost 1" at 100 meters.
For his I was loading 46 grs. H380 with 140'S I load 42 grs of IMR 4064 or RL-15 in both my rem. 700