quote:

Originally posted by Sid-:
mrbofus the Medalist stock is the best bang for the buck option. I have 3 of them and all have performed well. I have an HS Precision on my Weatherby Accumark 300 WinMag but they will cost you more and have less camo and color options. A Manners stock is around $500 and nearly indestructable. These 3 stocks have the aluminum bedding chassis. The Mcmillan is a great stock but does not have the aluminum bedding in it. I do not have any experience with Hogue stocks but many people have given them positive reviews and with the aluminum bedding they should be plenty stiff.

Another thing that will mitigate recoil is having the stock fit you properly. Measure your length of pull and order your stock to match it. I am lucky that mine is 13.5" which is about standard for factory guns. I shoot a 416 Rem Mag with a B&C Medalist stock at 13.5" from the bench or standing and it doesn't bother me a bit. I do not use muzzle breaks and usually only quit shooting it because the ammo runs out. Now if the stock did not fit properely I would end up bruised and probably hate it.

Don't give up on the gun. If you can get comfortable with it then you will have a very versatile rifle whenever the need arises.

Sid,

I will look into B&C Medalist, what bennefit is the alum bedding? Stiffness of the stock, recoil reduction?
AND
How do you measeure the lenght of pull?

I am trying real hard NOT to give up on the 300, but there is a few other long guns in the safe that are much more enjoyable to shoot.

Thanks

I have shot a .300 Winny since 1972 and have taken many Elk, Caribou and a 91/2 ft. Brown Bear with it. My go to rifle is a post 64 Model 70 Winchester that has never seen a gun smiths hands, has see thru mounts and still does one hole groups for me my son and two grandsons. I also shot two BAR's that served me well. My Elk hunting group of 13 this year used 8 .300 Winnys and over the years have accounted for many Bulls. We all shoot either 180 ( 76 grs. of RL-22 and Fed 210M primers) or 200 grain Nosler partition or Accubonds, or North Forks of the same weights. Up close or extended ranges they will do their job if the shooter does his. Good shooting.

I have a 40X chambered in .300, which was a pretension of a 1000 yard target gun way back.

It has a custom stock on it, but not fitted to me as I bought the thing used.

This gun beats me up worse than anything else I have, so while I shoot it periodically, I would rather shoot one of my other mags than this one.

IMO, if you need a .300 over a standard chambering, you might as well move up to a bigger bore for hunting purposes. Having said that, they do get the job done on any soft skinned game animals up to around 1000 pounds no problem.

I've used one for quite some years and for a long time whilst waiting for licence approvials I used a .300 Win Mag exclusively for African plains game.

I've hunted anything from the diminutive Vaal Rhebuck to many large Blue Wildebeest and Gemsbok and many springbuck and lots of other
game.

The rifle is a long range rig and quite heavy, built off a Sako M995 (TRG-S), so maybe not comparable to the hunting rifles most use, but it is accurate and worked really well on everything. I like it so much that I recently bought a new Model 70 in .300 Win Mag as well.

I recommend it for African hunting if you are generally shooting at long range. For this I would prefer it to a .338 Win Mag. If on balance you are hunting larger game and you don't quite need the trajectory advantage (which isn't much) a .338 work great too. That said if you shoot 180-200 grain bullets in a .338 you are missing the benefits of the larger bore diameter in my opinion. The .33's are for 225's and preferably 250's in the context of my hunting.

To measure your length of pull get a yardstick and place it in the bend of your arm at the forearm and bicep. Measure to the first bend in your trigger finger. You can use a tape measure but I find the yardstick easier.

The aluminum bedding makes the stock stiffer while not adding much weight. If a stock does not have it then aluminum pillars will help. Injection molded stocks do not offer the stiffnes of aramid fibers and kevlar found in the more expensive stocks. I always glass bed my stocks whether they have aluminum bedding or not. It is a personal thing and not a prerequisite but I prefer it. You will not go wrong with a B&C Medalist and if you decide to sell it you will get your money back with resell value.

quote:

Originally posted by Sid-:
To measure your length of pull get a yardstick and place it in the bend of your arm at the forearm and bicep. Measure to the first bend in your trigger finger. You can use a tape measure but I find the yardstick easier.

You will not go wrong with a B&C Medalist and if you decide to sell it you will get your money back with resell value.

Sid,
According to my measuring stick, I come up with 15-1/4" measuring as you described.

I also am looking into the Medalist stocks.
Thanks for your help.

Have 2 in Steyr Safebolts. The one has accounted for more than 25 head of African game. Love the gun and will only replace it when a suitable load is found for the Mauser M03 in 300 WM.

You must be very tall or have long arms because that is a long LOP. If that is your correct measurement then I can see where your discomfort is coming from. Make sure you measured from the inside of your arm and not from the elbow. I also forgot to mention bend your arm at 90 degrees to simulate holding a rifle.

I would not want to fight a man with a 15" LOP because I would never land a punch. On a more serious side there is a way to test that before you order a stock. You could get a slip on recoil pad and see if that makes the gun more comfortable to shoot. If you get a really thick one it could add more than an inch to the stock. There are also spacers you could add to see if that helps. Once you find your right length it will make all your guns more pleasant to shoot. Please let us know if this helps you because there are many shooters who run into this problem and are looking for a solution. Best of luck with this new project but I have to warn you. Once you start modifying guns it gets addictive and hard to stop.

Yep,
Kneeling on floor, arm on table, fingers pointed at ceilingm measuring stick in crease of elbow by bicep to first joint on trigger finger (from the tip) 15-1/4". 13-1/4 to the end on palm before fingers.......

I see no reason to own any other .308 caliber chambering.

The perfect elk/medium game cartridge.

The .300 and .270 Win, cover 99% of all my hunting. In the field recoil is about the same. For moose/brown bears I'd go bigger (.340 Wby), but for the majority of NA game those 2 cover it.

MR. Bofus,

Put a Simms pad on it and you will be amazed at the difference! I put one on my 300WSM browning a-bolt this is a 6 1/4lb gun, and liked it so much I put it on the 30-06 and bennelli nova! You can buy a pre-countered one for the SPS remove two screws and but the new pad on easy simple and big difference!

Big Bird,

Thanks for the advise on the Simms. I will look into that.
I have always had the intention to restock this 300 but lost interest in it for awhile.

Now everytime I open the gun safe the 300 sits in the back all sad and lonely looking so I guess I need to get her out and play again.

I would love to have a ,300"Wind" Mag if it wasn`t for the .300H&H that looks better and has the correct headstamp.

Artical Bodd.

http://www.rifleshootermag.com...great_300_hh_020810/

Ultra, Weatherby, Win Mag, Win Short Mag...I've shot several. Owned the WSM and Win Mag, still have the Weatherby.

A good stock/pad WILL help with recoil reduction, even if its just perceived. Whoever thinks it won't is just being stubborn on the internet because they like being a troll. And I have never once heard of a person who put their gun on a better stock who did not get smaller groups.

The alum. block helps with accuracy, its a solid and secure way of connecting the action to the stock. Most of the time glass bedding as well as the alum. blocks are the way to go. I have a B&C Medalist and I am very happy with it, I'll probably buy more of them.

Remington, Winchester, Marlin, Stevens, S&W...they all make giant piece of shit plastic stocks that are no more stiff then a big tupperware bowl. Comparing these to high end composites is like saying a geo metro and a mustang are the same because they have wheels, an engine, and run on gasoline. Well, yes, that IS true...but that ain't exactly the appeal of driving the nicer, better built, faster car, now is it?

Besides B&C, H-S Precision aren't much more. McMillan or Manners are about double the price but still damn nice.

To the OP, also consider a laminated wood stock, especially if you want a thumbhole. I used to shoot a thumbhole laminate stocked 300 Win Mag ( Howa) with a Decelerator pad on it and it was extremely pleasant.

quote:

Originally posted by Sid-:

Another thing that will mitigate recoil is having the stock fit you properly. Measure your length of pull and order your stock to match it.

Don't give up on the gun. If you can get comfortable with it then you will have a very versatile rifle whenever the need arises.

That is good advice, and the less a person shoots higher recoil magnum rifles, the better the advice is.

I would add one thing. Length of pull is just one of several stock dimensions which directly affect one's perception of recoil.

Another important one is the amount of "drop" of the stock (How far the center of the buttplate is below the line of the bore).

Prone rifles (long range target rifles) for instance, need a straigter stock with less drop than most hunting rifles. Rifles shot primarily when standing (offhand) may need even more drop than factory "bench queen" rifles.

Anyway, the point is that the amount of drop affects directly "how" and the angle at which one's head is held in relation to the sights and buttstock at the instant of firing. That in turn affects how the rifle comes back against the shoulder (and against the shooter's cheek).

I suggest you handle as many different rifles as you can obtain access to, and see which one seems to leave you in the most natural position when you're aiming it. The fewer muscles you have to strain when holding the rifle in shooting position, the less it is going to seem to "kick" you when it's fired.

When you find a rifle that puts you in a really comfortable position when aiming and swinging it while you're standing up, measure both the LOP and the "drop". Then compare those figures to those that your "mule" of a .300 stock has.

That may be a useful education.

i used a 300 win mag for a couple years for deer and elk. it always worked fine. eventually sold it and went back to the 30-06. i have a farmer buddy who has an old model 700 adl in 300 win mag, and uses it to shoot geese out of his wheat fields. the 300 win mag remains an excellent round. load it down to 30-06 levels, or load it up for tougher stuff. a fellow could hunt everything in north american with a 300 win mag, and not be wanting anything.

i have one .. shoot great.. hammers game like mad... blood shoots the crap out of the meat...

every time i NEED a long range rifle, i load it with target bullets, and go shoot it till that is out of my system...

Love this cartridge. Mine is a stainless/synthetic Win model 70, accurate as any varmint rifle (.5" groups), and very versatile. 180 gr. Swift Scirocco for deer/caribou hopefully elk/moose one day, 200 gr A Frame for Africas Plains game (worked wonderfully) and 220gr RN Hornady @ 2400fps for bears. My go to rifle, regardless of weather or continent, until the beasties get really big. Yes, my 308 does a great job too, but the 300 WM would be my one rifle choice for North America...

quote:

Originally posted by jens poulsen:
I would love to have a ,300"Wind" Mag if it wasn`t for the .300H&H that looks better and has the correct headstamp.

Artical Bodd.

http://www.rifleshootermag.com...great_300_hh_020810/

Yep! I'm getting mine back from a restocking next week. WOOOHOOO!

quote:

Originally posted by Bwana Nderobo:
Love this cartridge. Mine is a stainless/synthetic Win model 70, accurate as any varmint rifle (.5" groups), and very versatile. 180 gr. Swift Scirocco for deer/caribou hopefully elk/moose one day, 200 gr A Frame for Africas Plains game (worked wonderfully) and 220gr RN Hornady @ 2400fps for bears. My go to rifle, regardless of weather or continent, until the beasties get really big. Yes, my 308 does a great job too, but the 300 WM would be my one rifle choice for North America...

Thanks Phil,
I have re directed my short attention span back to this Remington 300 project and hopefully the rifle and me will get reaquainted and form a loving relationship.........

too keep the one have from being a safe queen, when not out elk hunting with it,

I referenced loads out of a cast bullet manual..

for myself, or taking my son, his friends or some of the older scouts out in my son's troop to shoot it, I load up 22 grains of Unique and a 150 grain jacketed bullet for an MV of 2200 fps.. essentially making it a 30/30 equivalent..

that load has accounted for a deer or two...since pretty much everything we take in the location we hunt is taken within 150 yds or less...set your scope up right, it is still an effective 250 yd load, especially with a 150 grain ballistic tip topping it off..

( now I'll sit back and wait for Kabluewy to flame me on this one also.. )

From my own experience with a light weight .338 Win Mag, the answer was a device called a "Countercoil." It is a recoil pad-like device with a hydrolic piston in it. Some think it is strange looking and it is not cheap. I love that rifle, however, and did not want to give it up. The recoil was killing me due to a bad neck and the muzzle brake rang my ears so badly when hunting that I hated it. It is now a pleasure to shoot, so much so that I often use it on white tail deer just 'cause I love to use the rifle. If you Google "countercoil," you will see the device. I learned about it from a trap shooter friend.