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I picked up laminated stainless 338 RUM on a year end clearout. I own mostly Tikka's and Sako and have a few observations and one question. Feeding is poor compared to other guns I own. The rifle is a brass hacker chewing up both brass and bullet when feeding from the magazine. I spent about an hour grinding and polishing rails and front edges of magazine box and underside of front of bolt which had a pin partially protruding with scratches where it was somewhat filed almost flush. Its alot better now. Unlike the rifles shipped to "magazine writers" and unlike the other guns I own the trigger came in just under 7#. After installing a Vais muzzle brake my gunsmith reworked the trigger to about 3#. Prior to doing any work to the gun rolling the rifle left to right produced an annoying click as the barrel shifted across what appears to be a pressure point support in the stock channel. I installed two tiny pads left and right under the barrel. Pulling on the end of the barrel it lifts of the supports at about 8# of pull. The rifle is very light for caliber only 7.5#. The barrel tapers down for the first 20 inches and turns into a uniform diameter tube for the last six inches at about .650". The exterior finish on metal and wood is uniform in appearance. Bolt handle is either glued or welded on top of the bolt. The extractor works fine on unfired rounds but you need a magnifying glass to see it. Rim diameter on my 100 rounds of brass is .528" the same as several other belted magnums I own. It is supposed to be.002" larger. I hope there is no problem extracting fired rounds. My perception of the barrel is that it is light, long, thin and it is going to be whippy especially with the added weight of a muzzle brake. The only other improvements I am considering, are to bed the action and possibly up to 5 or 6 inches of the barrel to reduce whipiness and then float the barrel. I want this rifle to perform to its maximum potential with respect to accuracy and consistency using the factory barrel and the laminated stock it came with. My question is, if I float the barrel and bed the action how much should I extend the bedding under the barrel? Any input from members would be much appreciated. | ||
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one of us |
Hi Boomer: Did you shoot the darn thing yet? Try Remington factory fodder with the Nosler 250 grain first. I have seen these wippy barrels shoot sub MOA with Remington Factory ammo right out of the box... more than one or two rifles I might add. Regards.... Jim P. The Hunters Hut Firearms Sales & Service PAHunter/ The Head Hunter DRSS,NRA,SCI,NAHC www.huntershut1.com | |||
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One of Us |
Hello, You asked about how far forward to place bedding compound and it would be my suggestion that you bed forward the length of the chamber. and leave the normal "bump" in the barrel channel which Remington uses on their wood stocks. If accuracy is not what you expect, remove the "bump" pressure point and go from there. Would also bed the recoil lug area for additonal stability. Not exactly sure what you ground off of the front of the bolt unless it is a rivot for the extractor?? In closing, as it was suggested earlier, shoot the rifle and then determine if anything needs to be done. Do not be shocked to see the rifle perform better than perhaps you think it will. Favor Center!! dsiteman | |||
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new member |
Thanks for the replies: I plan on shooting handloads trying 225 and 250 Hornady's and 250 Noslers. It is encouraging to hear reports of decent accuracy using factory ammo. I shoot all new loads for a new rifle over a chrony and test for accuracy and do a barrel break-in all at the same time. I'm dying to get out and test this rifle. Last year I was one of the few who shot all winter long at our local range. This year, we had a pile of snow, chest deep in places and the range I want to shoot on is just not readily accessible until spring. dsiteman: The item I ground off was a rough spot sticking up on the rivet for the extractor. Won't I feel like a fool if the rivet drops out now. Once again, thanks for the advice: I will shoot first and if I get any loads that run MOA or better I will be very satisfied. Also: Thanks to all who post here. I started reloading a year ago, and information I found on this site helped me to produce safe, accurate and reliable ammo. My only regret is that should have taken up this hobby years ago. Regards: Gene in Northern Ontario | |||
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