Not really a hunting issue, but I have a 7.5, Nickel Taylor/Uberti 45 in order. I hope it is here in 90 days.

Can someone recommend a good holster and belt?

Not looking for anything with fancy leather tooling. Fancy not needed, but money is not a concern. Something classically simple.

Should the holster be lined? Thinking about this.

https://www.triplek.com/product/916-outlaw-holster/

quote:

Can someone recommend a good holster and belt?
I smoke
Not looking for anything with fancy leather tooling. Fancy not needed, but money is not a concern. Something classically simple.

Best that I have has been made by Ryan Grizzle of R Grizzle Holsters. He makes holsters for all types of pistols/handguns. You might want to contact him and discuss if he makes rigs for the type of 'cowboy' pistol that you have on order. My latest is made out of Nicotine Elephant. See pic below:

Beautiful. Googling him now.

Thank you.

I have emailed him, from his site it appears he focuses more in duty/self defense rigs. However, that photo was worth the ask.

I forgot I have two rigs from El Paso Saddlery I like for two N frame smiths. Looking there after he contacts me.

Three words: Wolf Ears Equipment.
Stan is up in Laramie, Wyoming, and turns out excellent gear at very reasonable prices. Thi holster cost $98. It is without fault.



https://www.wolfearsequipment.com/holsters

Check out Barranti Leather, Mike (Doc) Barranti is the Michael Jordan of holster makers, either strong side, cross draw, or adjustable shoulder rigs, lined or unlined.







Dick

Should the holster be lined on a nickel plated revolver?

Most important thing is STRAP OVER HAMMER!

Before Ruger made the transfer bar. I carried 6 in the holes.

Killed a buck on the other side of heavy oak brush.
Went up busting thru the brush both ways and drug him out, dressed and loaded in the trunk.

Drove 2 miles and opened a gate, drove thru, on the way closing it I happened to look down and it was full cocked.

What would you expect would have happened if a twig had hooked the trigger?? It scared the hell out of me.

I wrote Hunter Holsters about it, no reply, they still make 'em with the strap over the trigger guard. I have had several of them changed over.
It's easy to do, just move the back end and
re-rivit it. Use the same snap.

It's your knees friends.

George

Most important thing is STRAP OVER HAMMER!

Before Ruger made the transfer bar.
I carried 6 in the holes.

Killed a buck on the other side of heavy oak brush. About 15 miles back in the pasture alone.
Went up busting thru the brush both ways and drug him out, dressed and loaded in the trunk.

Drove 2 miles and opened a gate, drove thru, on the way closing it I happened to look down and it was full cocked.

What would you expect would have happened if a twig had hooked the trigger?? It scared the hell out of me.

I wrote Hunter Holsters about it, no reply. They still make 'em with the strap over the trigger guard. I have had several of them changed over.
It's easy to do, just move the back end and
re-rivit it. Use the same snap.

It's your knees friends.

George

first off, you NEVER NEVER carry a single action pistol with 6 bullets in the cylinder, even in a Ruger. if dropped on the hammer the transfer bar can break causing the gun to fire. I see a lot of broken transfer bars every year. I own 4 and shoot Fast Draw and they break more than you believe. great guns built like a tank but prefer my 126 year old Colt.

I would go for the lined holster. A quality gun deserves a nice bed.

Dick

quote:

Originally posted by LHeym500:
Should the holster be lined on a nickel plated revolver?

All of mine are lined. I have smith and wessons that are field carried and the nickel looks new after 55 years.

quote:

even in a Ruger. if dropped on the hammer the transfer bar can break causing the gun to fire.

I really do believe you do not know how a Ruger transfer bar works.

Or how a transfer bar breaking would fire the handgun.

Unless held in place by holding the trigger back the transfer bar drops out of the way. When the hammer falls for ward.

If the hammer is in the down position the transfer bar is not available to be in between the hammer and firing pin.

If the transfer bar broke it can not move into position between the firing pin and the hammer If the hammer is down. Because of the shape of the hammer nose.

If a transfer bar broke while in the holster highly unlikely.

It would most likely fall into the revolver and muck up the action so it would not function. Then ever be in a position that the revolver would fire.

Unless one has modified ones handgun so the transfer bar is in the up position. there is not a chance that if broken it could be in the way to cause a round to fire.

Everyone o have the holster and revolver in hand.

Everyone rightly complains about the standard red stain Uberti uses in the grip panels. Mine are subdued and really look great with the Mahogany holster. They look so well together I am going to keep the factory stock panels.


R. Grizzle leather made a fabulous holster. It is not standards for them. He did not even have a dummy gun to work from. I believe I have convinced them to add it as standard to their line. The mouth is open because of the lack of a dummy gun, but the barrel is 1/2 an inch from the opening. It is not a classic “western” style holster. The closest in design would be a Slim Jim.

Now, I got here clean, and Renaissance Wax applied. The question becomes how do you clean the carbon off the front of the chamber mouths in a nickel revolver?

Other forums have indicated just do not do it for as along as you are going to shoot the revolver. Then, use fritz or Mother’s Mag very conservatively. Others say do not do it all.

I thought maybe those green scruff pads I use on blue guns for the same purpose.

Everyone agreed not to use a lead away cloth.

First, The Ruger hammer on a transfer bar Gun never touches the firing pin at rest. The bar can break, but the hammer rest only against the frame. Second, Colt from 1873- 1940 recommend carrying in the safety notch in primary literature. They would have got sued for a bad design and recommending this practice back then. Third, I have seen test where it took 12,000 psi to break the safety notch on a poorly made gun by design. I have also seen folks hit the back of the hammer with the safety notch engaged and nothing happened. Fourth, the quote from Waytt Earp of loaded one and skipping one is erroneous. He did say that, but he states that the practice was done because Gun Fighters modified their guns to not have to pull the trigger. The whole quote proving what I just said is all over the internet if anyone wants to find it. Yes, he recommend only loading 5, but that was because of modifications made to the firearm that resulted in no safety notch or the gun firing so pulling the trigger. I have seen guns do modified. Fifth, the revolver Earp dropped on its hammer causing it to go off was a cap and ball revolver with the hammer resting on a cap. There was no safety notch. Duke Wayne was a young man working on film sets. The legend is he met Earp that way. I believe this, and believe that Earp told him about only loading 5, but not the why.

The Calvary did only load five, but the military also carried a 1911 with 7 in the mag, and hammer down on an empty chamber. Funny, Ordnance in writing states the revolver could be carried 6 w safety notch.

I do not believe the safety notch is anymore dangerous them a trigger-lever Glock with one in the chamber. We can go on YouTube and watch folk’s holstering a Glock with something getting in the way and bang.

There are too many shots fired in these 18th center gun fights for everyone to be carrying 5.

Anyway, this is Academic and folks can do what they want. I know this, no horse stirrup falling down ever broke a not already damaged safety notch causing s gun to fire. There have been no lawsuits over that fact pattern. I have seen too many hit w a hammer and survive. Now, a fairly light hammer tap with the hammer all the way forward will discharge every time. So, I stirrup following down on a hammer resting on a loaded chamber, all the way forward might.

We must not forget that folks will damage the notches by not cocking all the way through and slipping past notches or by hammer slipping during cocking.

Loading 5 is certainly safest, but I do not believe loading 5 was the mainstream 19th century practice to the 1940 when Colt first stopped making the SAA practice.

The best holster Iv ever seen or used were by AJ Brill in Texas and I have several..Most of the Texas Rangers use them..Last one I saw sell brought $400 so I suspect he has passed on???? I wouldn't sell mine for that..I also liked the Tom 3-persons by SD Myres of EL Paso,tx and copied by others..

Strangely enough in my years with DEA I never used a holster. preferring to use a slab sided Browning HP or colt Lt wt commander stuck in my belt as most of us found necessary in Mexico and on the Texas border. I just loved the looks of a well made Holster and the holster was good for horse patrol on the Rio Grande. My point is what is your use for a holster, will determine what is best..

Just my 2 cents worth....Bought a cross draw CRAFT holster....{Piece of $100 crap) Snap was a full haf inch short even when I fORCED the pistol in the holster as far as I could I was advised by customer service can be stretched All I gotta do is buy a "break in" solvent...(Nothing but alcohol)

Then...they wanted six photographs to "help with the problem"

So far, have not decided what I'm gonna do